Timing belt broke, replaced belt and head camshaft position sensor. After engine is ran awhile 5-10 miles it will not start until it cools down for at least 45 minutes. Even with jumper cables attached.
View 2 RepliesMy hyundai accent 2005, have problem of jerks /die speed after engine get warm, also increase if AC on, when I starts car in morning it works great and no problem but after 3 or 5 km as engine get hotter speed kills,but it happens more or worst in evening at 4 when returning from office and temp is 45+ in riyadh, saudiarabia.
I change air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, spark cables, also use fuel injector cleaner but still problem remains, I want to tell you its start when I changed engine valve cover gasket due to oil leak, as I changed this problem suddenly appeared, I went to other mechanic but he told me the problem not in valve cover gasket,it is somewhere else he clean my throttle body ,and its works for 2 day only that i felt the problem solved but after two days problem appeared again,there is no engine light power on for any electronic malfunctioning.
My hyundai accent 2004 is not starting after the cluch plate and disc were replaced. what could be responsible?
View 1 Replieso my wife was driving our 2005 Accent GLS with about 95k miles yesterday, and it had an issue that it's had three or four times before: the engine would turn over but wouldn't start while it was still warm. In the past when it happened, whoever was driving would wait a few minutes and try again. It always started on the third or fourth try after waiting five to twenty minutes.
Yesterday, however, she was frustrated and so called AAA to have them send a battery truck over and have them take a look at it. The truck came relatively quickly, and they started their diagnostic procedures. The battery was fine (knew that), and he tried all the standard things like cleaning the terminals/harnesses and whacking the starter with a hammer. My wife said that as she and the tech tried to start the car, the turn-over seemed to get shorter and shorter- so when she first tried it would turn for a few seconds, and after a dozen or so attempts it was only turning for a second or less.
Finally, the tech (who apparently seemed to be frustrated at this point) got behind the wheel while my wife was looking under the opened hood and turned the ignition on and held it. The positive battery terminal apparently started smoking and my wife had to yell at him to get him to stop.
After this point, the engine no longer turned over at all. He tried a few more things like cleaning the cables, but no change. He finally said that he would call for a tow truck, and we ended up getting it towed back to our house.
The problem is unchanged since yesterday: there is full power when in ACC mode, but when you turn the ignition all the way to the on position there is nothing but a single loud "click" and a high-pitched whining noise.
I left my ODB bluetooth interface at my office, so I haven't been able to see if there are any codes.
I drive a 2000 Ex V10. My truck has been having an issue at idle after it warms up, almost every time after it sits and cools down.
My problem is that once the truck warms up, it will drop down to 500 rpm's and will have a hesitation/miss/lope for about 20 seconds. When it does this I can hear the exhaust making a sputtering sound. On two occasions during windy rain it would hesitate while driving but then straighten up within a half mile or so and be fine. I have changed all the boots, cop's and plugs and don't think that is where my problem is.
What I can't figure is why it seems to hesitate/lope once it warms up! This problem not related to a failing boot, plug or cop?
When you start the engine on my 04 hyundai accent something under the hood is making a ticking sound. Seems if you run the engine awhile the ticking decreases. What this is?
View 5 RepliesI have an accent 2003 1.6 dohc crank but not start !!! Who do not fire and no gas ... and the check engine light is off when I turn the key on... (I test the check engine light and it is not burn).
I change the engine control relay and this is not work... I have all the wiring diagram and I check wire by wire and I don't find anything...
I have a 2000 model accent manual trans its just recently clocked 200 000 km I know the car has had problems but they are getting worse. Occasionally I have Problems starting the car in the past but it usually takes no more than 5 turns to get started but this is getting worse the other day it took about 5 min maybe more to get the car started I am guessing my starter motor probably Needs to be changed.
Next problem yesterday after I put a full tank of Premium 98 in the car its starts to rev itself changing the sound and note of the motor running constantly it has done this in the past but not so severely and It only seem to do so after putting petrol Especially when I put fuel From a servo I don't usually go to the car would have stalled more than once but didn't only because I tried to keep the revs up when it sounded like it was gunna die also I am pretty sure my fan was making some weird noises but the car has had no engine Light show and no Overheating.
My 01 accent's engine makes a clattering sound(sounds a little bit like a diesel engine) when it's first started in the morning. After warming up (in about 20 seconds or so) the sound disappears. My oil level is normal(last oil change about 4k miles ago with full synthetic oil. I normally change oil at 5k intervals with full synthetic), timing belt changed about 1 year(20k miles) ago. Should I be worried?
View 4 RepliesWhen engine is cold it starts fine, when hot from driving (e.g. the engine's temperature display's needle is in the middle) i cannot start it unless i try 3-4 LONG keys. What can it be? Where should i start?
View 17 RepliesLast week I started having problems with my 05 Accent, hatchback, 1.6L engine, automatic transmission. Filled the tank up with gas and the car stalled pulling out of the station and wouldn't start unless I pumped the gas while cranking the engine. Ran and started fine after that and I thought it may have just been an air bubble in the fuel line, since there wasn't a check engine light or any other symptoms after that. Fast forward to this morning and the check engine light comes on during my commute and when I checked it, it gave an EVAP code (P0441). I also stopped to refill the gas and it stalled again as I was leaving the station. Also after I measured the gas mileage I found that I'd lost around 7 mpg (from around 30 to around 23).
I've never heard of EVAP problems causing stalling and loss of gas mileage but I'm not all that familiar with these systems so I don't really know. I'm going to test if it's the gas cap going bad since on the list of things that could cause a P0441 that seems to be the easiest place to start, but other than that where to start looking?
Well zipping along the highway tonight, sitting on 100KM/h, and all of a sudden the engine loses all power. As luck would have it a fuel station was just closing (the only one for half an hour either side) and kept the lights on so I could have a look. The starter is nice and lively, and the engine is trying to fire, but just wouldn't. I asked a mate of mine in town to come out and give me a hand troubleshooting.
As it turns out, when the ignition switch is set to the "ON" position, normally the fuel pump primes the lines. It's only doing it intermittently for some strange reason, and not making it past the fuel filter (despite the filter being new). The temporary buzzing in the engine bay when the car is switched off is gone now too.
Now my question is - does this sound like fuel pump? I'm only used to the older fuel pumps in carburetor vehicles, not these fingle fangle electric things!
My 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
View 21 RepliesI have a Saturn SL2, 2000, 110k miles, automatic. When the engine is cold, reverse works. After the engine warms up, reverse stops working. It doesn't start moving from being in that gear, nor does it work when I push on the gas. Shifting from First to Second is a little rough at times.
View 2 RepliesCar just died and wont start. Have checked the following..
fuel (unplugged hose at rail and no fuel with key on, only while cranking. also pulled rail off and all are spraying fuel)
spark ( all plugs are sparking, but are wet from fuel)
compression ( all had 190-210 psi)
timing belt is still in time.
Car doesn't even try to start with all of these. It does back fire out exhaust though when trying.
Also the one of the ecu fuses was blown( thought for sure that was the problem) but made no difference. What to check next. Possible ecu is bad??
I have a 2000 hyundai accent. I shut it off in my driveway earlier and went in long enough to use the bathroom and when i came back the car would not start. I squirted gas in the intake and it fired right up. A little later i was in town and it stalled and would not re-start. I had to walk to the store and get some ether to get it started back up. I have noticed since the first time that it will cut out every now and then for just a second and then go again while running down the road at around sixty mph... im at a loss as the local mechanic's computer wont hook up to it and there is no place to check the fuel pressure as i had wondered if maybe that was the problem having had another car do that before. the check engine light is not on either
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Hyundai Accent GL. I have had the alternator, sensor and battery replaced recently. Well brakes etc too.
My problem is now the car will not start. It was fine this morning and later in the day I went out to start it to move it and there is NO power to it at all.
When I put the key in to start it, no power, no lights etc..
I have a Hyundai Accent 1500, 2001 model which wont start first time but will on second or third try. I was told it was low fuel pressure so fitted new fuel pump and filter but it is still the same. What could it be.
View 1 RepliesM y 2000 F150 5.4 motor has a little miss but only after it warms up It does not show up on the code reader . Right before this the #2 coil went out so I changed it .
View 3 RepliesMy 04 accent will not start. I have an automatic. It cranks but will not start. First I replaced the fuel pump and relay. Still nothing. Wasn't getting fire until my friend tested to coil and i tried to crank while the tester was in the ground wire while I turned it over and it cranked. Only worked for about an hour and is still not starting but it sounds like something isn't telling it to crank?
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