Accent LC (2000-05) :: Vibration Sounds Like A Plastic Trim In The Dash
Nov 23, 2011
Here goes, I just took ownership in the last month of a Hyundai Accent GS(2000). Car's been going great, but I have now found an annoying issue with a vibration coming through the dash. When I'm accelerating in all gears (and esp up hill when the car is under pressure), a Vibration starts in the dash and stays until I am roughly over 3000 revs. I'm in Ireland, so the car is Right Hand Drive. The Vibration sounds like it is coming from behind the speedo clocks near to windscreen.
So far, I have removed the Center Console and Stereo and the Vibration stays there. I've reached in behind the console and cant find any vibration there. I have also driven with the speedo clocks removed and putting my hand into the space trying to find the vibration.....but no joy.
The vibration itself sounds like a plastic trim in the dash (or behind the dash), but it has my stomped! Can it be something in the engine causing it? Engine ticks over fine, not lumpy in anyway.
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How to remove the plastic dash trim on the Passenger side? Is there a way to do this without removing the glovebox? I know there is one screw that needs to be removed. Mine creaks pretty badly. Ive already removed the center console trim and added felt to all those pieces. No more ticks/ creaks.
I guess I could have the dealer remove it but I dont want them taking my glovebox out to do it = more rattles. Why does VW make it so difficult to remove something that should be so simple!!
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My Touareg developed a dash squeak last week. It seems like it's coming from where the dash and windshield come together. It sounds like plastic rubbing against glass.
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Car Throwing This Code ... P2096 Post Fuel Trim Too Lean-B1 ...
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I found on internet loads of comment about this error code, but in my case the only bad thing is with fuel consumption - about 9-10 litres (!) for 100 km on motorway. Normaly it should be about 6-8 litres.
The error means: "P1128 is "Long Term Fuel Trim Too Lean". Which means the air/fuel mixture is leaner than the HO2S can compensate for."
Idle is working correctly (i think thats to do with MAF), engine start without any problems and overall car running smooth.
What can cause a bad fuel consumption? Is anything to do with a lambda (O2) sensor or it could be something else?
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I have been getting noise that sounds like marbles in the front wheel area. It doesn't happen right away, but after about 20-30 minutes of continuous driving you can hear it. It is louder the faster the car goes, and when you stop it the sound slows down and stops. There is no difference in the way she drives / handles with or without the noise, but I know she hasn't made that noise in the past.
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I noticed that I have some light scratches on the black plastic trim on outside of the doors (more than likely done by the place that tinted my windows, ). How to buff these out. They are more like micro-scratches and swirl marks more than anything else. I tried car paint polish in a small corner and it had no effect.
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I have a 2003 my04 accent, 1.6l, manual. I have 2 different noises coming from the engine bay. Iv'e got a video of one of them, you'll have to listen through headphones though to hear it properly, I'll post below. The noise will be echoed off the car shelter so bear with me. It sounds like a whine. You can hear it when I start revving it just after half way, and it is constant even when I am driving, becomes more noticeable as the RPM's climb.
The second noise I'm pretty sure is coming from the gearbox or surrounding areas. And it sounds like something grinding. It only happens if the car is straining I.e going up a hill in to high a gear. Or after I change gears and it sounds just before 2000RPM and fades out after 2200RPM . What could this be?
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2002 accent gl. 96000 miles...strange clicking or ratcheting sounds that I thought were drivers side 1/2 shafts going bad...replaced it, still has the sound...replaced left shock-strut was bad as well. sounds like differential noise, almost like a baseball card hitting bicycle spokes! previous owner told me this sound has been there for over 1 year and he put both 1/2 shafts in as well, sound is still there. Trans was a little low on fluid(automatic/overdrive). tried driving car with o/d off, manually shifting and driving through all the gears, sound is still there.
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Just got my 2012 Prius. The interior plastic trim squeaks when pressed by hand/knee or during cornering and bumps. I'm talking about the center console and flying bridge thing, door panels, ect. I'm in the process of upgrading speakers and adding limit amounts of sound deadener. I thought about adding silicon grease on the plastic tabs that hold the plastic together....does that sound like a good idea. The main offender is the arm rest console box.
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Was the plastic exterior trim on my 01 F250 originally black or grey? I was thinking of repainting the running boards, side mirrors, door handles, front bumper trim and bed trim with that Dupicolor bumper black. Want to make sure and keep it factory in appearance.
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I own hyundai 2000, 1.5L. About 5 days ago the engine started making strange noise that sounds like sewing machine.
I went to my garage and they said that its the hydraulic valve lifters and that I should replace all of them(12 total).
My question is, what can happened if I wont replace them? can I postpone the replacing for a few months or it can cause damage?
By the way, I heard that the noise from hydraulic valve lifters can start due to bad oil, I had 20W50 so I changed today the oil to 15W40(manufacturer recommendation) and the oil filter and still got the noises.
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I just purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent. I was told it has a bad wheel bearing on the front driver's side. I am assuming that would be the clicking sound that associates with speed. I was told the cv joints or axles were replaced but have a leak. I couldn't see a filler hole or one to check from. I also don't see fluid under the car from parked. Also, there is a humming which sounds like knobby mud tires. The humming disappears during hard right turns.
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I know that I need to have the alignment done on my car - pulls to the right if steering wheel is straight. I am also getting a vibration/shaking when car is in motion. Also, when I slow down it slowly ricks back and forth, and the steering wheels moves with it. Exactly what have I done to this car? It also has 101,192 miles on it ....
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Getting some vibration at high speeds on the highway, and when I changed my wheels, I noted that there seems to be some free play in the ball joint on the end. Is this normal? Can I replace just the end of the tie rod?
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I have a 2002 Accent. The blue back lighting on the dash are out. The mileage lights are on. The back lighting will come on for a bit and then off again.
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I have a 2002 Accent...Won't start....When I turn the key on...none of the idiot lights come on...It will turn over like crazy...but nothing....Have checked all fuses and relays... Then all of a sudden the lights will all come on and it starts...ran it for awhile drove it around a bit...shut it off...then tried to restart and it did...ok then 2 days later went to start it..and same thing...No idiot lights came on....and of course will not start..Someone mentioned to me it might be the ignition switch itself that might be causing the problem?
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I am posting about a cam sensor code and alternator belt squeal.
Yesterday after getting in from a 600 mile drive from salt lake to eastern Oregon i took a look at the car to put some fogs in and clean it up a bit. It had always had some odd vibration at idle and belt squeal intermittently at idle. I pressed down on the alternator at idle and the vibration noise went away. So bam. Found that.
The nut on the square head mounting bolt holding the alternator was missing. So it was kind of just flapping around. Replaced the bolt and put a lock nut on. Problem solved so I thought.
I'm still getting belt squeal. And i think that its out of alignment. It looks like the pulley side of the alternator is closer to the engine block than the other side. Is this adjustable? Is the bushing on the mounting side worn out to the point of movement? Is this fixable?
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I have a 2001 Accent with a auto-transmission. The engine is a 1.6 and the car has about 100,000 miles on it. I had it since about 5 years with about 48,000 miles.
While driving cross country a couple years the car developed a whining noise at about 25 mph. As speed is increased, the whining became louder. I have driven it like this ever since, moderately, never pushing it. Starting a couple months ago, the noise has become louder at 40 to 45 mph and there is considerable vibration.
I know the tranny in this car is known for many different problems. I'm just wonder what the thoughts are of others more familiar with this transmission as to what could be the issues ( a certain bearing going bad between gears?, maybe not a tranny issues ...just random ideas on my part ).
BTW, I have never had an error code develop for this transmission.
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I recently had my '02 Accent serviced. When I picked it up, the mechanic had set the parking brake with about 15,000 lbs of force. Once I got it released, I noticed that the red parking brake dash indicator light won't go off while the car is running.
I have verified the brakes are free, and have tried wiggling the brake handle.
Is there a switch somewhere that could be bad? For the record, I do most minor maintenance myself, and have 214,000 trouble-free miles on my 1.5L SOHC Accent.
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Purchased 2000 F150 (224000 miles) about a year go cheap for knock around truck. Only gets driven about twice week (20 miles most). Has been running great until recently. Got in the other day went about a mile and notice really strong vibration in steering wheel and dash. First thought about something to do with alignment etc. After a little experimentation realized it was the motor. When you get to around 40 mph and try to hold the speed constant it starts shaking (I believe the motor is missing). If you mash the gas and accelerate it stops. As soon as you try to hold constant speed again it starts again. I can run it up to say 45 and let off the gas and the shaking stops. Once it was driven like this for about 5 miles or so, when I come to stop sign it idles rough. If it is put in neutral runs smoother. Could the fuel filter be clogging up? I did try some additive to see if it would clean it out, no luck. Now the check engine soon lite came on. Fuel Filter, Plugs?
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