Accent LC (2000-05) :: Vehicle Overheating In 60 Degree Weather


Oct 18, 2015

2005 Accent Hatchback... As of Friday I noticed my vehicle had been overheating. The coolant levels haven't seemed to change but this is a recent issue so there still may be a slow leak I'm not noticing.

I let the car idle to normal operating temperatures over the course of 17 minutes. While warming up the top radiator hose became warmer, and eventually hot -- the bottom hosed seemed to stay cold and didn't appear to change in temperature.

After reaching normal temps I let the car sit another 3-5 minutes to watch the temp gauge, which did not move. I drove the vehicle stop-and-go 5 laps around my complex(about a mile). There was no noticeable change in temps.

I then turned on the AC which blew ice cold and did another lap. After the first lap the gauge began to rise fairly quick. I immediately turned the AC off and drove the rest of the 2nd lap. The temperatures continued to rise throughout the 2nd lap. I parked with the gauge at about 62% assuming normal temps to be 50% (middle of gauge).

Once parked I checked the hoses. Top hose was hot, bottom hose cold. Coolant tank was at the HIGH mark previous to it being on the LOW mark before the car was started. The oil is at the same level as it was when I changed it a couple months ago, and it looked clean.

Before I started the car I also noted that the radiator was filled to the top. As mentioned OIL looks clean, coolant looks clean. No unusual smoke coming from exhaust or engine.

I've done a lot of reading and some information suggest that the thermostat might be stuck closed. Other post say that if the thermostat was stuck closed the top hose wouldn't get hot. But, these are also post for other vehicles so that might vary here.

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Jeep - Overheating - Weather - Cherokee - Clutches :: 2000, AC Clutch Won't Engage On Hot Days

2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4.0L, in Palo Alto, CA.

My air conditioner clutch stops engaging after driving in hot weather.

In hot weather (>80 degrees), when I first turn on the AC it blows nice and cold for up to 30 minutes, after which it gradually gets warmer and then hot air comes out. If I leave the AC on when it is blowing hot air, it will suddenly blow cold again (sometimes it takes a couple minutes for it to work again, sometimes it takes 30 minutes). Then the cycle repeats.The AC seems to be dependent on outside temperature: on very hot days ~95 degrees the AC will only work for ~5 minutes before blowing hot, 80 degree days the AC works longer, limited testing in cooler weather (at night ~60 degrees) AC always blows cold. When it is blowing hot air, the clutch on the compressor hasn’t engaged. When the AC is blowing cold, the clutch engages/disengages normally depending on how you set the temperature. I replaced the low pressure switch, did not change AC function. I recharged the AC, did not change AC function.Engine temperature reading always in normal range <210 degrees. Heater is working normally.

I’m pretty sure the clutch is getting the signals to engage. When the AC is working normally the engine revs slightly higher when AC clutch is engaged.Likewise, when the AC is blowing hot air and the clutch isn’t engaged the engine revs higher. And if I disconnect either the low or the high pressure switches the engine reduces to normal idling.

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Camry :: 2000 Vehicle Overheating - Radiator Fans Kick In And Then Temperature Goes Down

My Camry seems to be overheating. When I'm driving the gauge maintains and reads 6/10, when the engine is idling, it goes upto 8/10, radiator fans kick in and then temperature goes down to 6/10 and keeps cycling over a period of 5 mins.

It's got 100K miles, water pump has not been replaced yet.

I checked the hose temperature; top hose 210 F, bottom hose 192, fans kick in when top hose is around 215 F.

I checked the engine temperature where the sender is installed and it was reading 205 F. Coolant level is OK. I burped the system. Previous owner told me, he had thermostat replaced by dealer.

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I have a 2000 Silverado 2500 HD, 6 liter engine. The transmission warning gauge has been showing it's overheating. I changed the filter and fluid and the gauge still shows red warning.

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Car heats up (dial at 3/4 temp.) with A/C on at highway speeds. Turn off A/C and temperature drops back to normal (in between the two dots). Everything appears to be in working order.

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Accent LC (2000-05) :: Cold Weather Start / Turns Over Fine Just Not Firing

So my wife drove her car all day yesterday, everything fine. This morning went to start and it wouldn't. It turns over fine just not firing.

Now during the summer I had replace the fuel pump/filter before discovering that was not the issue.

I know you are already thinking CPS!.. I replaced that over the summer.

I have not checked the spark yet, kinda hard to do that one by yourself.

Beyond spark I am not sure what else could be wrong, especially because it was running fine last night. Is it common for accents to have issues in 20 degree weather?

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Accent LC (2000-05) :: Overheating With P2096 Code

I have an 05 accent that overheats on short rides, it smells of antifreeze when you pop the hood. There are no visible leaks, and the antifreeze level is good.

Also the check engine light is on and is outputting a P2096 code.

I'm stumped as to what this problem could be, at first I was thinking thermostat or some kind of clog or something like that, now I'm not so sure.

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Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2004 - Overheating False Indication

For three months. I have a problem overheating false indication. I changed the water pump, the thermostat, the cooling radiator, the temperature sensor.

When driving with more than 110 kilometers, and turn on the lights, the temperature rises. The same is done with any electric charge, air conditioning etc.

If I reduce the speed of about 70-80 kilometers then the temperature begins to fall.

Note that I measure the temperature on the temperature sensor base, with a digital thermometer and while the temperature gauge was almost in the red field, the temperature showing the digital thermometer was 88-90 Celsius degrees.

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For about the last month or so my car has been making a strange thumping kind of sound that is constant with vehicle speed. slow or fast. changed the rotors, pads, hardware, shoes and machined drums. also has a slight pulsation when coming to a stop. Thought it was the tires but they look good. can not find anything wrong.

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Accent LC (2000-05) :: Radiator Is Dumping Coolant Into Reservoir But Not Overheating

My 2000 Accent with 164,000km is not overheating but is dumping coolant into the reservoir so that the radiator is about a quart low. I did have a few problems with it overheating in the past month, but that was solved by thermostat removal (always above 80F here). I stopped before the overheats reached the redline and allowed the engine to cool before continuing, no known adverse performance during the overheats. No water in oil.

Failed troubleshooting:

Drained and replaced coolant x3
New radiator cap
* No thermostat.

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Accent LC (2000-05) :: Overheating Constantly - Car Won't Go In Reverse And Has Hard Time Shifting Sometimes

I have a 2003 Accent and it has been over heating constantly for about 5 months. After it started, we replaced the main radiator hose, thermostat, radiator cap AND a head and head gasket. It worked for about 2 weeks and then over heated again. It seems like there is too much pressure somewhere because the lid for my reservoir shoots off and all the coolant comes out. I'm just not sure where to look for a clog since it is coming out of the reservoir. It also recently started having transmission problems(?) or that is what I think it is... It won't go in reverse and has a hard time shifting sometimes. I'm not sure if it could be related or if it is the tranny also.

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I've got a problem with my R and I don't know what to do. It will overheat after being driven for a bit in warm weather and then if I get stuck in traffic, boom, the temp goes to red and the warning chimes on, stop car and check coolant level. The coolant level is OK, and I can't seem to figure out what is failing. I brought it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and it supposedly didn't throw any faults.

I know it's not just me that sees this happening as I now have two witnesses( I thought I was going crazy at first, I could still be going crazy but the car is definitely exhibiting this issue). Which temp sensor the fans work off of? I was thinking maybe the fans weren't coming on, as soon as I get back under and the highway air is coming, it cools right back down. The problem is sometimes it happens, sometimes it does not. I don't want to continue driving thinking it's just a gauge glitch and end up overheating and ruining my car.

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I have an 1997 F150/4.2 V6/220,000 miles/4x2. During hot weather (over 90F) the engine slowly overheats. While driving on the interstate (from Indy to Fort Wayne), the coolant temperature shows normal on the gauge. Slowly the temperature gauge creeps up to close to the red area. I am running the A/C.

When I switch the heater on and the heater fan at max, the temperature gauge drops pretty quickly to a normal range. I switch off the heater and the A/C back on, then it takes 30 minutes for the temperature gauge to start rising again.

When I open the hood when the gauge shows close to the red area, the upper coolant hose has a lot of pressure (can not squeeze it), which would mean that the thermostat is open and the water pump is working. Also the fan is running fast.

The coolant was changed out a few weeks ago and the coolant level is at normal level when the engine is cold. At lower ambient temperatures, there is no overheating. I am puzzled what the problem can be. I am thinking of a restricted coolant flow.

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How do I turn off that Severe Weather alert when I start the vehicle? I remember reading the trick somewhere ... But cannot locate it now.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Overheating In Hot Weather - Restricted Coolant Flow?

I have an 1997 F150/4.2 V6/220,000 miles/4x2. During hot weather (over 90F) the engine slowly overheats. While driving on the interstate (from Indy to Fort Wayne), the coolant temperature shows normal on the gauge. Slowly the temperature gage creeps up to close to the red area. I am running the A/C.

When I switch the heater on and the heater fan at max, the temperature gauge drops pretty quickly to a normal range. I switch off the heater and the A/C back on, then it takes 30 minutes for the temperature gauge to start rising again.

When I open the hood when the gage shows close to the red area, the upper coolant hose has a lot of pressure (cannot squeeze it), which would mean that the thermostat is open and the waterpump is working. Also the fan is running fast. The coolant was changed out a few weeks ago and the coolant level is at normal level when the engine is cold. At lower ambient temperatures, there is no overheating. I am puzzled what the problem can be. I am thinking of a restricted coolant flow. Looking for solutions to my problem.

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I've got a 2001 F150 and lately, since the weather has warmed up, I've had a problem. After a few minutes on the road, the engine seems to be lacking power and is running hard. It also seems to shake a bit too. It's not overheating and the gauges don't show signs of high temp. My drive to work is 40 minutes and by the last 10 or 15 minutes it seems to be OK. ... A month or so ago when the weather was cold, I had problems keeping coolant due to leaks but that problem seems to have diminished. I don't know if any of that is connected to the original problem or not.

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Accent RB (2012+) :: 2013 GLS Manual Stalls In Cold Weather

She's got a 2013 RB GLS.

In very cold weather, we're talking around -15c (5f) or colder the car has serious trouble going into first gear or any gear.

The car starts fine, we even have let it warm up so the engine temp is fully warmed up.

As soon as we put the car into first and release the clutch, the car immediately stalls. It's also difficult to get into first gear, as it's locked out and takes repeated attempts to get into first, just to have it stall when the clutch is released.

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Accent MC (2006-11) :: Shuddering When Vehicle Is Placed In Gear - Code P0301

When looking at the engine from the front of the vehicle. what numbers are the cylinders from left to right? To curtail off of that question where do I locate the corresponding ignition coils to these c I have been dealing with intermittent misfires on cylinders 1 and 3 codes P0300, P0301, P0303. I replaced the spark plugs to no avail. Whenever the vehicle shudders the headlights dim and the shuddering is worse when the vehicle is placed in gear, the A/C fan is on, or the vehicle is accelerating. Once I reach a certain speed, usually 35-40 mph, I don't notice until I again slow down. I replaced the spark plugs the day after I had the first issue appear which read code P0301. Prior to installing the spark plugs, I experienced a severe loss of acceleration power, but now only experience the shuddering.

2011 Hyundai Accent 63500 miles ....

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This week I noticed a sound that sounds low that increases then the vehicle goes faster and decreases when it slows down. It is not wheel bearing noise. Took a doctors type scope and put it on the pulleys listening for the bearing noise in each pulley and found my alternator pulley making more noise than usual, My car needs new accessory belts so I ordered 3 new belts and will be replacing them soon. I am hoping the noise is from worn belts and not the alternator. If it is the alternator its going to cost me 250 bucks for a rebuilt one. I'm not sure if I can tear the alternator apart and replace the part bearing part. Have to look into this. Is this normal for a car with 161 thousand klm for accessory belt bearings on items to start to go bad? I sure hope the water pump and power steering and ac compressor and ac tensioner last. These all have bearings in them as well.

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I have a whining sound coming from somewhere on the left side of my Accent HB SE 2013. 6 months old...it isnt audio related, and is intermittent - sometimes I can hear it, sometimes I cant. It can only be heard above say 40km/hr... and gets higher pitched with speed... lower and whirs out to silence when coming to a stop.

It sounds almost clutch related, but my guess is fuel pump related. A visual inspection shows the belts are fine.... I tried to see if it was hand-brake related by pumping a few times before pulling off... no dice. Now I'm trying to keep fuel above half to see if that has an effect on cooling the pump....

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Windstar :: 2000 - Car Cranked But Not Started In Cold Weather

First, it's not a sticky IAC. I already experience that in cold weather and compensate simply with the gas pedal until engine warms up. However this coughing, sputtering, backfiring, misfiring problem is very severe. When it is in this state, the engine will lose rpm and stall. No way to coax it with the gas pedal to keep it running.

It happens most often when you restart the engine after having stopped somewhere for 10-30 minutes. It happens less often during a cold start in the morning. When it does this, I remove the key, and try again. Usually in 3-10 tries, the engine runs properly. Once running properly, there is never an occurrence of this.

However, today only, first cold start, it cranked and would not fire at all. Repeatedly. Jiggled the key and maybe they made it start. Ignition switch? If Neutral Switch, it should not have cranked. Perhaps my intermittent problem is worsening.

Wet weather seems to aggravate it.

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