Accent LC (2000-05) :: Unable To Mount Strut Bar
Nov 14, 2012
I have purchased an UltraRacing strut bar for my hyundai accent 2005... The problem however is that my intake manifold sits higher than the throttle body and as a result of this i am unable to mount the bar... The bar has been made for an 03 accent but all points are identical, the only difference that i was able to see is that in the previous accent the throttle body was NOT plastic and sat FLUSH with the throttle body, whereas mine IS plastic and does NOT sit flush with the throttle body.
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My upper strut mounts have been failing after a year (about 12,000 miles, typical highway and local street driving, no off-road!). This seems to have started when I replaced shocks with Bilstein slightly stiffer variety. I also put a stabilizer bar on it at that time. Do you think the shocks are the fault? What else might I look for?
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I have a rear rattle that I cant figure out had the wheel off and levered and pounded on links bushings etc. How can I access the top strut mounts to check them? Nothing found on youtube. Original struts on rear show no leaks or broken spring. Bouncing car does nothing neither does grabbing the tire at 12 and 6 or 3 and 9 position.
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I have had the LF strut mount fail three times in the last three months. The strut has pushed through the upper mount. The guy a bought the car from said he had the struts replaced about a year ago. Could it be a bad strut?
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I have to replace the torque strut mount in my 2008 Avalon XLS V6. I can't find the torque specs for the two bolts in my Haynes manual or at any online sites. Also, should I use either threadlocker or anti-seize on them?
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Was tinkering on my car this morning, and at first noticed one side had a bigger gap than the other. Ok, I really need to change strut mount bushings, no big deal. Then I actually looked closer, and they both have some lean to them, but the drivers side is much more than the other one. Is this normal? I've never noticed any play in control arm bushings or anything. So what could be causing this? I would assume they are meant to sit flat but maybe not?
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I hear a a series of "clunks" rather than "rattles" (not high pitched) when driving slow over bumpy roads. The noise is coming from the rear only. I think it is more evident in cold temperatures, but I'm not sure. I'll find out if it ever gets above freezing again in MN. Strut mounts? If so, DIY project?
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Is this possible? I recently installed raceland ultimos and I get this weird muffled noise from the top of the rear suspension. Took it all apart, cut the bump stops shorter, and lubed the strut mounts. Sound went away for about 10 mins of driving, went for another drive and the sound was back. The next day the weather was warmer and the noise was gone. Should I just get new strut mounts?
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I just installed my brand new coil overs. I went to drop the car from the jack and as it lowered I noticed my strut mount fully popped out of the strut mount housing. I can't even close my hood. Did I do something wrong?
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I had my ST coilovers installed a while back. I love the ride, but a really annoying squeaking/groaning sound developed several weeks ago from the front strut mount area. The noise is heard at low speeds as I roll down the road (most likely high speeds, too) and sounds like its coming from both sides of the upper strut mount area. If you lift up/push down on the car, you can also hear the sound.
I purchased a set of 034 Density upper strut mounts from AMI Motorsports in hopes of eliminating the sound, but the sound got worse!! I still do not have a resolution. At this point, I'm thinking about putting the stock strut mounts back in, as the sound wasn't near as bad with the OE mounts in place.
I've lubricated the sway bar bushings and installed shorter end links (thinking the sound may be sway bar related), but the noise is still there. I even disconnected the end links all together - sound is still there. Could this be faulty coilovers? I tried to file a warranty claim through ST - they don't think their strut is faulty, and even if they did, I'm having a hard time with warranty coverage (long story). If it's the struts, then why did the sound get worse when the new 034 Density upper strut mounts were installed? Could it be faulty mounts?
At this point, I think it's either the mount or the strut, as I did not experience any issues prior to the coilovers.
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Setup: WRD Street Advantage Coilover kit. Installed and sit at 24.75" all around. 034 Density mounts and new bearings. 19,xxx mi.
7 weeks ago I installed WRD Street Advantage coils. The install went great, no problems. Drove a week or so and decided to replace the strut mounts with 034's density strut mounts and new bearing to get rid of the creaking sound at low speed. Ordered them and put them on this weekend. After driving it I realized the creaking of the old weaker strut mount was gone. However, I inherited a rough clunking or knocking sound (as if something is loose and moving around), which seems to be coming from my passenger side. This happens at all speeds and not specific to turning the wheel. I unistalled/reinstalled everything in the front 4 times and went through everything with a fine tooth comb, but can't find anything loose. All bolts are torqued to spec.
I even removed the sway bar end links and drove it, still there. So it's not the end links. I also tried using the OEM endlinks which are longer than the ones from WRD to increase the space between the axle and the sway bar, possibly thinking it was hitting and causing the noise. No luck, still there. The only thing I noticed is that with the car on jack stands the strut mount is tight to the body but I still have slight play in the spring and it's perch. Is that normal? I'm assuming under load it's tight again. So the only variable in my situation is the new Density Mounts and bearing, can these cause heightened noises due to the increased heardness of the mounts?
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I have a set of ST coilovers, installed on my tiguan s4motion they ride great but have noticed clunk noise coming from tight strut and I'm pretty sure it's the pillow mount plate, is there anywhere to get replacements or a better plate? ST website doesn't have them separately...
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I have a 1999 cadillac Deville that my mechanic says needs a new front strut mount. My symptoms are mostly in cold weather a very slight groan when parking the vehicle or turning into my driveway. It seems like it happens when the steering wheel is on its return back to center and it can be felt slightly in the wheel and heard as the sound a zip tie makes when pulled together with a slight groan. The car has been recently aligned and rides pretty good but sometimes can be a little noisy over bumps.
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I just did a front bumper repair and now I need something to mount my plate because because in Ontario we need a plate in the front and the back. I current have it zip tied to the lower grill. Any good option for a mount that doesn't involve drilling?
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2000 Blazer LT 4wd, 118000 miles
During a severe thunder storm the factory alarm went off. I was unable to shut off the alarm with the key fob. The power door locks did not work either with the door switch or the key fob. I disconnected the battery and let it sit for 30 minutes.
After I reconnected the battery the door locks worked using the key fob or door switch. I took it for a drive with no further problems. About 10 minutes later the alarm went off again. I could hear the door lock solenoids attempting to lock/unlock the doors and there was a clicking under the dash. I disconnected the battery again, after the battery was reconnected the power door locks were still not working. The truck starts up and runs normal, everything seems to work except for the door lock?
I checked the PW fuse, it was fine. The battery is fully charged at 12.6V. I've disconnected the battery and will have another look at it tomorrow. There was nothing useful in the Owner's Manual and the resync procedure did not work.
Update: Before driving to work this morning, I cleaned the positive and negative terminals. The locks worked and the truck ran normally during the 30 min drive to work. After reading the Owner's manual closely, I discovered the Theft Deterrent System can be disarmed by locking the car with the doors closed. The system is armed by locking the doors with a door open, i.e. pressing the lock switch when exiting the vehicle.
No further problems with the alarm or the door locks whether the Theft Deterrent System is armed or disarmed. Hopefully leaving the battery disconnected overnight was the fix.
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I have a volkswagen jetta glx vr6.Today my key wont turn (unable to crank engine) and the car won't detect my key (no remote entry/lock function).I've detached the battery.
Plugging the batter back and keeping the key in:
1. Off position causes the "Electronic Immobilzer" light to blink.
2. When in on position. no "electronic immoblizer light comes on.
3. In anycase I can't get the ignition to work.
My engine check/airbag lights are also on and my radio/ac doesn't work. Also the electronic controls for rear view mirrors don't work. Half of the tail (exaust) pipe rusted and has fallen off.On the funny sideI asked the guy at VW to appraise my jetta for a trade and he said it would be $500 for the car !! ONLY After the company official tested the car this won't start...the sales person left, since it was 6PM on Friday. I was left alone and had no option other than to leave my car at Pugi VW showroom and ask a friend for a ride...Long story.
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I just installed a CB antenna (Wilson 2000) on my truck to the truck bed rail behind the cab. I tuned the antenna and best I could get was 2.8. Wondering if there is a better spot other than going to magnet mount. Thought about going a foot or two back from the cab....
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Long story short, over torqued the top two stretch bolts and destroyed the threads. We helicoil'ed both holes and put the bolts back in. That was about 4 months ago.
Today both bolts snapped not while moving. We dolly'd the car home and bought a replacement bracket, however all three bolts along the bottom that go into the transmission housing broke off inside.
I'm a tad stuck at this point. I could drill and tap new holes over the existing, but i question whether that is a good idea. My other thought was to get 3 of the larger stretch bolts that go in the top, completely drill out the three that are broken and tap the big ones in. This thought would also require drilling the bracket to make the larger bolts fit.
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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how to reset ecu from hyundai accent 2005??
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I recently bought an 01 accent 4d and it seems like i get really poor mileage. Its auto and i only get around 70-80 miles for half of a tank.
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