Accent LC (2000-05) :: Turn Over Then Buck And Stall Right Out In Really Cold Temperatures
Dec 14, 2013
I have a 2002 hyundai accent gl, 1.6l dohc engine. The issue is in the cold weather, the car will turn over, and then buck and stall right out. After a while, she will finally catch and idle really rough, until the car warms up, and the temp gauge goes to halfway, and then it all goes away, and the car runs perfectly fine. Its only in the winter it does it, and when the car is really cold.
I just put a new battery in today, the alternator is newer, fuel pump is newer, new plugs and wires. I am leaning towards the coolant temp sensor gone faulty. I was wondering, where it is located to on the engine so I can change it out.
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2005 Hyundai Accent stalled on freeway today. It was running fine and suddenly stalled without warning. I tried to restart but the engine doesn't turnover just makes a electrical "weeee" sound. Battery works and lights work. Code reader gave P0340 and P0134 codes.
P0340 Camshaft position sensor "A" circuit malfunction bank 1 single sensor
probable causes:
-Open of short circuit condition
-poor electrical connection
-Faulty CMP sensor
-Engine Mechanical fault
P0134-Heated O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 (H02S11) circuit no activity detected
Probable cause:
-Poor electrical connection
-Rich or lean Air/Fuel ratio
-Engine mechanical condition
-Faulty H02S11 (Bank 1 sensor 1)
I'd like to fix it myself; where should I start?
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I have an 01 Accent GL 1.6L. It will not turn over. Battery, terminals, and wires are all new. Alternator is also good. There is a buzzing noise coming from beside the cold air intake. I'm not sure what part that is. The part that is buzzing is where the cam position sensor is connected to. It also has wires that run into the firewall.
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I have a 2004 PT Cruiser with 111,000 miles on it. A summer or two ago, whenever it got hot out, the check engine light would start to come on. Usually, it didn't affect the car's driveability - but sometimes, it would cause the car to buck and/or stall, sometimes to the point of stalling completely out. Brought it into the shop again and again. Camshaft sensor. O2 sensor. Crankshaft sensor. Replaced. Checked. P0304 misfire code came up in diagnostics again and again. Re-wiring of camshaft sensor wires. And on and on. And yet again, intermittently, the check engine light would come back on and the whole thing would start all over again. Sometimes you'd drive it, stop somewhere, start it again, and the check engine light would be gone. Sometimes it would stay on for days. Weeks. Sometimes with no other driving symptoms - it just depends on how the car is feeling? I thought the problem was limited to the hot months of summer, but now it's the dead of January in Minnesota and it's happening again. Yesterday, it stalled out completely and I had to get it towed to the shop - decided to try a new shop, they said maybe the problem was that the old shop did a bad wiring job. OK. But then, got the car back, no check engine light on first drive, stopped somewhere for 5 minutes, get back in, start it again, check engine light back on. But at least the car started and didn't buck/stall. Now it's back in the shop, but I'm ready to give up.
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I have a 98 Ranger 4x4 XLT 4.0 5sp. It has 182K miles.
Once in a while it will blow the fuel pump fuse. It'll go 2 years sometimes. And sometimes the engine will stall just for a second making the truck "buck" as it accelerates.
Could it be the pump is about to fail? How long do they normally last? Btw, I change my fuel filter every 2 years, no issue there.
I've owned the truck since new and maintenance is always taken care of. Also, What's the best way to change the pump?
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I've seen the gods of the diesel engine do some amazing things on these forums, so after a year of pulling my hair out, I've signed up to try this myself.
This time least year,I bought a 2004.5 6.0L F-250 with 196k on it to haul around the state for my new business. At this time, I knew nothing about diesel engines AT ALL WHATSOEVER, but I've never been afraid to tackle anything and mechanics are not totally foreign to me. Not to mention, I was hoping everything might just go peach-ily for at least a couple years. (for what it's worth, My dad and his family are mostly shade tree mechanics and I'm a power plant operator so mechanical concepts are not totally foreign to me, just never had a diesel before)
To begin, I purchased the truck and everything was fine for about 2 weeks. Then abruptly one morning I noticed a couple of hefty surges on the way to work. Then, on the way home I thought all was well until about half way home, it did it again! as I was pulling up, it galloped once I pulled my foot off the pedal. like ba-DA-DA-DA-da-da-da-da-da-da-DA-DA-DA-DA-DA-da-da-__ and then STALL! Shaking with concern over potentially an awful purchase, I turned the truck back on only to find... that it's fine?!?? No problems for the next two days and then it happened again. then good for a week, then again. then good for 2 weeks, then again. so then I bought auto enginuity and an edge insight to do some troubleshooting. Let that sink in as I explain it's history a bit.
-All but one injector is ford remanufactured the other is stock (was never told which one)
-replaced head gasket with another OEM
-ARP Head Studs
-EGR delete
-HPOP AND STC fitting both replaced
-FICM replaced
-Oil cooler replaced 50k ago
-ICP and pig tail replaced right before my purchase
- Has been through roughly a handful of ICP's since I've had it (I'll explain)
-I've cleaned the EBP tube a lot and updated it to the newer ford sensor with the flare fitting
-I use Rotella T6 5W40 and CAT ELC-1 Coolant.
-Deltas are under 10 at normal driving
-I typically drive under 2200 rpm until warm then like a banshee at operating temps.
Now one year later, its not fixed, but I feel like I'm close.
The DTC's I have seen are ICP sensor circuit intermittent (I think po2884) and Power Blance contribution failure from cylinders #2 #7 and #8 but never at the same time.
Every time I replace the ICP, it will be problem free for about 6 weeks and then it will return full force (surging and galloping when warm about 50% of the time)
During a possession I see the following:
*Cylinder power contribution test yields no issues at idle or when cold. when "possessed", the whole baseline across all cylinders goes up and all cylinders dip and return at random. none singled out
*ICP voltage fluctuating from ~.6v to 1v (.24 @koeo) *Also during a surge*
*ICP PSI dancing up and down ~600 to 900psi (0.0 @koeo and ~500 at normal warm idle) *Also during a surge*
*IPR% bumps up and down ~25% to 30% (15%@ koeo and 23% at normal warm idle) *Also during a surge*
*FICM Voltage anywhere between 47.5v and 49v
*EBP is normally 15-20 psi
*Boost is 1-7 normal and is not affected by "possession"
These numbers have taken a long time to get since it will only be possessed for about 3-10 seconds at a time and then will disappear for days. The stall has only happened about 5 total times in a year. The surging is much more frequent. I usually get a buck or 2 on any given trip that is longer than a half hour but NOT IMMEDIATELY AFTER AN ICP REPLACEMENT.
On one occasion, I noticed that the ICP PSI actually tanked to about 350 right before the IPR went from 25% to 40% right before a posession. I was driving about 35mph through town at the time.
Here's my thoughts...
- Did that one occasion clue me in to an intermittent HPO system leak causing the truck to briefly over-compensate by spiking the IPR?
- Is my ICP pig tail jobby done incorrectly? If there was a short, wouldn't I see the volts drop to 0? I have another one and will replace to rule it out.
- I have yet to test my fuel pressure, but I figured if it was low, I would have lost injectors by now. (I replace filters probably too often but next empty tank, I'm dropping it and checking the screen and strainers)
I should also mention that I have buzz tested the injectors and I can hear each one clear as day, and that for REALLY long trips, it actually returns to normal. In other words, my window of death is between 30min and 2hrs of driving; invincible after.
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My 2001 Accent doesn't give me any power when its cold in fact when I try starting it when its cold, the car will start and then after 1-2 min would violently (may be that's a little too strong a word to describe it) shake and then stall. This happens about 1-2 times and then the car finally starts.
If I drive my car uphill (not a very big), after heating it up, car would just start moving along slowly (or stall) even on the first gear and full gas. And sometimes while driving the car loses all power. It just trudges along no matter how much gas I press,
I no nothing about cars, so I am not sure if I conveyed my problem correctly. I just hope that the problem is fixable and wont cost me my entire salary to fix.
P.S: I always thought that the problem was me and that I couldn't drive a manual. Today a friend of the mine, who has been driving manual for 20 years also had the same trouble.
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I have a 2010 Camry and my air blows but not as good as it use to. The air doesn't get cold in extremely hot temperatures and does not blow as hard. At night the Ac works fine and gets cold. Same with the heater, the heater works fine but once idle the heat blows cold. When i start back driving the heater gets hot again.
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I've had my '96 Saab 900S for almost 6 years and it has 119K miles. Last weekend w/ the below freezing temperatures, she decided not to start on me again. I'll reiterate the word "again" as this non-starting problem happens once or twice every winter, when the temperatures are very cold, usually 20 degrees or colder. I've taken it to the mechanic who doesn't know why it continues to do this to me every winter during a really cold spell. As soon as the weather warms up 30 degrees or higher, the car starts up fine w/in a couple tries. During the non-starting fiscal the car will turn over, but then just dies, as if it is "starving for fuel".
On a few occasions I've tried the "cold start", or pushing the gas pedal while turning the engine on for 5-10 seconds, and then trying to start the car normally right after. This has worked on occasion in the past, but isn't a sure bet, this last weekend it didn't work. Recent work includes new battery, distributer cap and rotors, spark plugs, fuel line checked out "ok", and fluid changes are regularly maintained. Does it sound electrical or mechanical? No check engine light comes on so it makes it hard to diagnose. As this car was built in Sweden, it shouldn't be so temperamental in the below freezing weather every winter.
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I have a '00 RAV4 I bought from my Mother. It was having loss of engine power and it would stall while driving and then turn off while driving. The car was taken to 4 mechanics, non could figure it out changed the sensor air fuel ....worked then did it again sent to the Toyota dealer changed the same part ....the problem seemed to be fixed....I've had for a couple of weeks and the problem came back...what I notice was a low idle, loss of power....then the car started stalling while driving, the rpm idle dropped to 0 and car shut down took to mechanic said the throttle body was dirty . They cleaned it they said that it fixed the problem ....2 weeks later it happens again to 2x .....I don't know what to do ...
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My 2002 Echo doesn't seem to be producing much heat. I have a scangauge installed, and it shows my temperatures around 75-80 C while our current temperatures here are around -20 C. I'm getting a bit of heat out of the vents but hardly enough to keep me warm.
I noticed that the coolant temperature will also drop a bit when I'm sitting idle listening to the radio before heading into our building at work. From about 85C to 70C, and the vents blow cold air.
My Radiator & Expansion tank are filled to proper level. I have just installed some cardboard inside the grille to try and block some of the cold air from entering. I haven't tested this out yet though.
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I have a 2009 Acura TSX that I bought used ~85,000 miles on it. It has been inspected 5 times and each mechanic says the car is basically new in perfect condition. However, it has an extremely difficult time starting after sitting in cold temperatures for more than about 12 hours. If I drive it every 8 hours or so it is fine. Everything has been checked repeatedly; alternator, wiring, battery connection etc. .. . The battery is only 3 months old.
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I have a 2001 accent 5-spd. I was on my way to work and I was making a u-turn when the car suddenly died. I tried to start it back up but it didn't even sound like it was turning over. I tried to bump start it or do a rolling start and nothing. I had to go to work. When I returned to it 8 hours later I again tried to start it and nothing. When I turn the key it makes a "whirring" or "humming" noise, kind of like a vacuum noise. When I had someone else try to turn it, I noticed the belt was turning, but the engine wouldn't crank or make any attempt to turn over. Just the belt was spinning and no engine crank. What could this be?? Could it be the crank position sensor?
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It is hyundai accent LC 1.6 cc dohc. It's 2013 model ...
Now my A/C dose not work the lamp of A/C switch lighting and the blower work good with all 4 speeds but no cold air .
Itested R 134 a refrigrant and it's pressure it was good (with Low side). The problem is that clutch of compressor does not rotate until I make a jumber between 30-87 pin of A/c relay and then my A/C working very good.
I know that mean I jump triple pressure sensor and thermostat sensor. I do not want make that jumper. What can I do (test anything to make my A/C working normally).
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ok i have a 1.8T atw passat 2000. when boost 18 psi my car starts to buck and then my psi goes down to 10 really quickly like something is being cut off. i also have a p0301 misfire in cylinder 1. I switched my ignition coils around and replaced one and i also changed my spark plugs(not the cheap autoparts store kind). i checked my vacuum hoses and no tears. i put fuel injector cleaner in my tank when i filled up ( two bottles). it might be my fuel injectors but that would be too easy to fix. So I am thinking its something mechanical. I want to know what could be wrong mechanically. My friend thinks could it be a blown head gasket. is this true?
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I took my car in for an oil change a few months ago when I was told the belt going to my a/c compressor was missing. It must have snapped off some time in the winter. I got the belt replaced and when I go to turn on the a/c I can hear it engage but the air that comes out is no colder than just having the vent on. A friend told me I just need to recharge the refrigerant.
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After changing my CD player, my heater blows out cold air (not icy cold but cold like you have put the thermostat on low heat) all the time but my temperature gauge is perfectly normal! Its right in between cold and hot.
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My 2000 Accent 1.3 has developed a problem recently: starts fine and revs freely and smoothly when parked. When I pull away it will get very rough like it's firing on only 2 cylinders or so, at certain points during the rev range rather than continuously. Very juddery.
After a minute or so, before the engine temp is even up to normal operating temp (according to the dial) it runs perfectly. When I start it up later the same day it's fine. It only happens the first time in a day that I use it. The more days I go without driving it the worse it is.
In the last couple of years I've changed spark plugs (always in good condition when I replace them), HT leads, coil pack, a lamda sensor (the first after the exhaust downpipe) and a fuel pump and filter.
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My ugly little 2000 Accent that I've taken careful care of for 240,000 miles has developed an intermittent, multi-symptom cold starting problem, how to solve....
Background on the car: I've owned this car since it had only 9,000 miles, so I know everything that's happened to it over the years. I've kept up on all the regularly-scheduled maintenance over the years and miles - oil changes, timing belts, engine coolant, water pump, belts and hoses, pcv valve, plugs & wires, fuel and air filters, transmission fluid, etc.
No check engine light on, no codes to diagnose available
Not leaking oil from the top or the bottom
No vacuum leaks
Runs strong, no loss of power or rough running at idle or under load
No major components related to spark and fuel delivery have been replaced - coil pack, fuel pump, etc
Symptoms:
Starting problem 1 - The car will simply refuse to catch and start up, sometimes for as long as 10-15 seconds of cranking, after which it starts and runs normally. This happens infrequently, but has been becoming more frequent in recent months.
Starting problem 2 - The car will immediately start to fire (one or more of the cylinders will catch), but will hesitate to fully start up for about 2-3 full engine rotations, what I would describe as a rough start.
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But it will start later in the day or when the temp is above -15C (5F) the car has a one year old battery, it has synthetic oil. Should we change the spark plugs? the car is 10 year old and they have never been changed.
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I'm completely lost. My car won't start. It will turn over but not get a spark. I replaced the plugs and the camshaft position sensor and still having issues. I didn't change the wires when I did the plugs. Would that cause the problem to persist?
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