So I bought a 2000 Hyundai Accent for my 16 year old daughter and the guy sold me a car that has a slipping trans. So I went to the Autozone and had the codes pulled and it was a P0734 code. I replaced the trans fluid and replaced the internal bearing and shim with the 42220LK kit from whatever it takes transmission parts store. Trans still slips. What else or should I just unload it?
View 3 RepliesI inherited this car from my grandmother when she passed. It has low miles, around 40k. Since I paid zero for it, I would like to keep it. Historically I have done all my repairs, but never trans work.
Here are the symptoms. The car has issues shifting into higher gears. I have to punch the gas and then it will switch gears. It then began to do this for reverse, and now now reverse does not work at all.
At first I thought it was a speed sensor problem, but when I took it in to be read, it came up with P0734. It could be electrical (Speed sensor?), low fluid (it's not low), or 4th gear.
Is this transmission worth me fixing or paying to have it repaired, or should I move on?
P.S. If I drop the pan and find shavings, I understand that to point to 4th gear and bearing (also what the computer code read as the issue). Do shavings mean it definitely is 4th/bearing, or could it be another blown part?
I have an 02 accent with 1.6 that has no reverse and throws P0732 and P0734. How to repair?
View 5 Replies2000 Hyundai Accent GS, 1.5l, 4cyl SOHC...
I have a slight issue. A few weeks ago, I put some "STP" style fuel injector cleaner into my gas tank. Either A) It cleaned everything really well and clogged my injectors, or it turned into gunk and possibly clogged something else up.
Ever since that day, my issue is that the car "stutters" very slightly. When idling, it'll "hiccup." When I'm doing normal driving, 55-60mph at 2k RPM, It'll almost feel like a transmission slip.
I've went and replaced my Fuel pump, filter, and now I've done half a can of seafoam through the brake line power booster (vaccuum) straight into the engine, and the other half into my oil for further cleaning. I also applied Seafoam Deep Creep into my throttle body, just for further maintenance.
Ever since then, everything has been running noticeably better, and I've had a huge increase in gas mileage, but there's still a slight hiccup that occurs during idle and driving.
I change the oil /filter, plugs, wires, air filter on a regular basis.
I also had to change the MAF at one point in time, as it died and the car wouldn't start at all.
Next thing I'm thinking about doing is changing the plugs / wires one more time (it's been about 5 months since my last change) just to see if I bought a faulty plug.
The car was put on a computer and the only error code that came up was one about my check engine light being out.
I have a 2008 Ford Escape 2.3L V6. About 67K miles on it.
Recently there's been some transmission problems. When the selector is in Drive, it will take abnormally long to shift into the next gear at normal speeds, and will redline if i hit it hard, but if i let off the gas, it will shift. Never hard.
If I put the selector in 2, it will do the same thing, eventually shifting into that second gear.
Gear selector on one, well, it obviously stays in 1st.
Reverse is fine. All shifts are smooth just take forever, and I get the wrench in the dash (means drivetrain/throttle fault as per manual) only after driving a while. The tranny fluid is still very clean, and this as been going on for 2 months.
Ive taken it to about 6 different places. Half say new tranny off the bat. Other half says clean fluid for that long after the problem started means its def. an electrical problem, and that makes the most sense to me. What it could be?
I'm thinking:
-Tranny Range Positioning Sensor
-Input/Output speed sensor
-TCM reprogramming/replace
- I'll even go with reflashing the PCM.
My 2004 Accent transmission with 145k miles all of a sudden started slipping while driving. It would be fine until i needed to slow down and then step on the gas again. It wouldn't catch right and it would slip. At first the pull of the slip was very slight and at times now it is very rough. My check engine light does not turn on when it slips slightly, but only when it has a really rough slip will it turn on. I had it checked at the local advance auto parts and i was told it has a 4th gear ratio that is off. The only thing that confuses me is that when i turn the car off and on it resets and works fine, that is until it slips again. If i drive carefully it usually wont slip. Could it be an electrical problem?? I changed my speed sensor when my car had about 132k miles because it went out, i replaced my ignition coils, new spark plugs/wires, tranny oil change, and filter change.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Accent GL 1.6L Automatic.
Yesterday it started acting up on the freeway. I was driving about 50 during traffic hour when it started revving. I got off the freeway and moved to 35mph on surface streets, the revving continued at lower speeds but much worse (4-5k rpms going 10-15mpg). Doesn't seem to do it in idle or park. If i shut the car off it'll drive fine for a while then start acting up but when I was driving, after awhile, it did return to normal.
What could cause the problem? TPS? Transmission? Sensor of some sort?
Wife's car threw a p0711 code. It says temp sensor failure or whatever. I found the part on rockauto for 22 bucks but that's not the issue. I've tried searching about this and I seem to find some stuff about elantras and sonatas. I can't seem to find anything specific to a accent. I've read that it's inside the transmission which is fine I've changed valves before and such on old rwd transmissions. But some things I find say it's on the bottom and some say the side. Also wiring is mentioned pretty often with service bulletins.
View 28 RepliesLast weekend on my way home from work, I heard this small "thump" noise then a rattling noise started. It really sounds like spinning a marble in a plastic bottle.
I got the car checked and we got code 0734 (Gear 4 ratio incorrect). We think there might be a tooth missing on the gear, but the mechanic wasn't entirely sure, as he wasn't a transmission specialist.
Now, I fear this may cost me my first born child, and I might just end up buying a cheap car for the Winter and get rid of this one; the transmission repair costs are ridiculous.
I've been driving the car in the city (30-50 km/h at most), I'm trying to avoid the highway, I'm afraid I'll blow it, who knows.
It has an automatic transmission, with 125,000 km on it, 2003 make.
The noise only happens when the car is moving forward, not when idling/parked, not in reverse. I am very gentle with the car, no highway speeding, no sudden speeding. I did however do an oil change a little over a month ago, and read somewhere on here that if the wrong fluid was used during maintenance that it could cause problems. I will call the shop and ask them about it.
I had a rebuild done on my 2002 Accent. My question is now we get a code for the output shaft speed sensor. Would this have been replaced as part of the transmission rebuild?
View 2 RepliesMy trans is getting to fourth and then will go back to third and stay there, two codes, P0734 + 0735, which means the converter isn't locking up in 4&5th gears. And it physically feels that way. after clearing and cycling ignition I can get it to stay in fifth and use cruise control, as long as I stay above 40mph, below that it goes to third and then cruise control also stops working....
View 10 RepliesI had a 2013 Elantra that I traded in for my new Accent. The last 6 months that I had my Elantra, the transmission was slipping like crazy. Mostly when it was cold, and at lower speeds. I started noticing this while the car only had 20000 km's on it. Personally, I think it had something to do with contaminants in the fluid. I told the dealership this but they just kind of dismissed it and said it probably just had something to do with the ECU messing up the shift timing or something to that extent. They made an "adjustment" but the problem didn't go away.
It got me thinking that since an automatic transmission has so many parts, wouldn't it be fair to say that metal particles from all these newly machined pieces and edges could have some initial deterioration causing a build-up of contaminants? I think a transmission flush would've resolved the issue. That's a lot cheaper than a full tranny swap down the road while the car is still under warranty, isn't it Hyundai? It's their problem now though.
I have a 2008 Accent (base model for the most part, no C/C), and my transmission seems to be slipping a bit. The symptoms are: slow acceleration, a delay in gear shifting, and after the 30MPH mark, it takes forever to get up to anything near 60. I just wanted to know if it's a simple solution such as topping off the transmission fluid, or if it's a bigger issue.
View 5 RepliesJust the other day I was driving my car till I've noticed the gears started slipping. At first it was having some issues shifting through the gears (automatic transmission btw). As soon as I got off the highway, I parked in a parking lot just to check underneath the hood. Everything looked fine, went to pull out of the parking lot, no reverse. The gears started to slip up really bad. I noticed that the RPM's kept on reving up and wouldn't go any faster than 20mph. I went to an advance auto parts to get automatic transmission fluid. Still having the same issue and no reverse either. I had to park the car at a location to get it towed back to my house. Some people are saying my transmission is bad, some say it could be a real simple fix. Where to start diagnosing this issue. The car was driving normally until last Monday. My question is where should I start to check and what can I do to see if the transmission is completely shot??
View 33 RepliesIt does not like to stay in 5th gear, drops out to neutral. 2001 Accent Hatchback. 1.5l 5-speed
The other day it started slipping out of 5th gear on the expressway. Held good for the first 10 to 20 minutes. Afterwards I had to hold it in 5th for it to stay in gear. While holding I noticed it pushed on the shifter when applying throttle, and let up some when I let of the gas.
I inspected the pivots at the transmission. The forward / back bushing was not installed properly by the previous owner. I rigged it up better with a fender washer and cotterpin. It previously had just a pin and the bushing had expanded out. This removed the play from shifting I had previously noticed. It also halfway fixed the popping out of gear. It stays in gear a little longer, and when I put it back into 5th it stays there for a while most of the time.
I have not inspected the lubricant level yet. Where to check next?
When I accelerate in 2nd gear the rpms zoom and then it shifts into 3rd and the rpms quickly go back to normal. If I take my foot off the gas as soon as this starts the car goes into 3rd slower but the rpms don't zoom up. I've never had a car that had transmission problems. Is this what's referred to as a Transmission Slipping? Meaning that it needs to be replaced? My mechanic drove it and said the tranny could go in a week or in another 100,000 miles.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 Prius with 103k miles that runs and drives great but sometimes with no warning will display the red triangle and check engine light and seem to slip out of gear. All I can do is coast to a safe spot to reset the codes. Once I reset the code it runs fine again.
View 2 RepliesMy daughter drives my old 2000 Chevy Blazer with a reconditioned transmission I paid for in Aug 2010. The new (rebuilt) transmission is now slipping. Could this be as simple as a fuse (electrical signal issue) or not having enough transmission fluid?
View 7 RepliesI just noticed last night that my transmission was slipping in 3rd gear, it's an automatic. I added just about a quart of transmission fluid today....took a little drive and it still seems to be having the same problem? What might be causing this besides needing to get a new/rebuilt transmission?
View 6 RepliesI have an unmodified 2000 Excursion 7.3. with 239000 miles on it. My transmission started to slip in overdrive. I could turn off the OD and it would run fine. I was in upper Wisconsin headed home to Georgia and figured the cold had something to do with it. Drove sixty mile with OD off turned it back on shifted fine and drove 750 mile to Paducah, KY stopped to eat and it started down the road and it slipped again.
Drove 45 miles stopped added 8 oz of tranny fluid and it drove fine back to a friends house and after I dropped him off and headed home it started again. The tranny is serviced every year, new filter, drained torque converter. I use Amsoil Synthetic ATF. I have used the truck to tow a 10000lbs trailer over 65000 miles. I was not towing when this occurred. What is going on? I guess what I am asking is my tranny about to become toast or am I looking at something that can be fixed easily.
I have a 2002 Manual VW 1.8t Jetta, and searched everywhere on the net and couldnt find anything. The problem is my RPMs skyrocket very high, like up to 6500, wheteher I give it a little gas or try to speed up to get on the highway. It seems almost as if the car thinks it is not in gear, I get no power or gain no speed when this happens. And it happens in every gear, 1-5. This is the main problem I am trying to figure out what it is.
Now I got the code read for the CEL and is is a P1296 and I know that this code means that I have a bad coolant temperature sensor or possibly even a thermostat itself. I just bought a new temp sensor and plan to replace it tomorrow or the day after. I cannot imagine that this is what is causing the problem with my RPMs to skyrocket uncontrollably when accelerating.