So I tried to launch my 04 accent today, but when I threw it into 2nd, all I got was engine revs. 3rd, 4th, 5th and reverse all work fine, but 1st won't work at all, and I can only get 2nd to work if I shift into 1st before hand. My question is what broke?
View 2 RepliesThe transmission shifts into gear and when the clutch is released it starts to crawl forward. When the throttle pedal is pushed it still revs up the engine normally. But when the transmission is in gear and the throttle is pushed it revs up like it is in neutral. At first I thought this might be a transmission problem but then I figured it might be a linkage somewhere. After looking under the hood and under the car I still couldn't see anything that would cause this problem. I had this car less than a week when this happened and I had to be towed home.
View 4 RepliesI've got a 07 accent with 90k miles on it. It has recently started slipping some (revs high, while in gear, without accelerating, especially in 5th gear). It also can be physically hard to move the shifter into gear sometimes (with my hand).
So, does this mean I need a new clutch? Or are there other possibilities? Should I replace/fix anything with the clutch? Sounds like the flywheel should be resurfaced? Will it shift more smoothly after the fix?
Is this something a newb could do himself? I can change the oil, rotate tires. Outside of that I haven't done much. My toolset for now is fairly limited: two jackstands, a trolley jack, torque-wrench and ratchet sets.
I am having a issue that my transmission is popping out of 4th gear on my Accent, particularly on inclines. Have had the transmission (gear) oil checked and filled (was low) and thought that may have been the issue. Got it back from the mechanic and less than an hour later is popped out of 4th 2 times in a 5 minute period. It has only popped out of 4th gear, has not happened from any other gear. I have no check engine light or any other 'idiot' lights that come on when it happens. (Other than replacing the clutch...which I hoping I don't have to do ) cause that's a trip to the mechanic again...
2000 Hyundai Accent
1.5L 5 speed manual
240k miles
have had this car for 2 years with out any problems whats so ever. Drove home from work today parked in drive went to leave again and transmission is stuck in first will not shift.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2001 Hyundai Accent GL the reverse gear went out but all the forward gears work. Ive been told that I need a new transmission. I found a great deal on a transmission from a 2007 Hyundai Accent. Will this transmission work in my car?
View 1 RepliesI am having a few issues with my 2001 accent. I bought this car for around 500 bucks after my friend hit 3 deer with it. At 101,000 miles the transmission went on it and he had it replace with a new one. At about 113k he hit his third deer and parked it. I bought it off him a few years later and its been running great. It died on me one time and it was the crank position sensor. Now I have about a 156k mile on it and it will not go into overdrive.
I have gotten mis fire codes, I know it needs new O2 sensors, and also P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect ratio. The button on the shifter does nothing, If i press it on or off the light does not come on on my dash. I noticed it was not going into OD this last winter if i dropped it into low and shifted to drive it would no longer go into overdrive until i placed it in park and then drive again. Ive been searching everywhere for an answer I was reading one post that it could be the TPS sensor causing issues but i haven't had time to check the voltage.
I have a 2001 Accent with a 1.6. This car is mostly driven by my daughter so I'm translating the symptoms as she has described them to me. The issue appears to be this - when driving at highway speeds the car will sometimes downshift from OD to 3rd gear and stay there. When the problem first started, she would pull off the highway, turn off the car and then restart it - this would appear to "fix" things temporarily, however, as time went on, it would work up to (and including) 3rd gear and not go into OD after a restart.
I've reviewed the various threads on this site describing the 4th gear problem prevalent in the Accent, but in each case that was posted, there was a check-engine-light or at least some diagnostic codes stored that one could refer to - I've scanned this car every time she's been home and there are no DTC's. Should I assume that this is the standard "4th gear" issue and take the pan off for investigation or could this be some other issue such as the speed sensor causing the transmission to limit itself to a max of 3rd gear?
So yesterday, this had happened for the third time in 3 years owning this car. Unhooking the battery for 20-30 minutes resets the computer and it is ready to go for a while with no issues. This has become annoying though. What is causing the car to enter "limp" mode and stay in third gear? One time it happened, I brought it to AutoZone and they did a scan and came up with the speed sensor. I haven't replaced it because it didn't happen for a while after that.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2001 Hyundai Accent with 120,000 miles on it. Up until a few months ago, its been a great little car. The transmission started acting funny by shifting irregularly and then getting stuck in 3rd gear occasionally. I took it to the dealer and they told me that the tranny is shot. The estimate for the repair is $2000.00.
I just can't see putting that much money into this car. It needs Struts, Shocks and a timing belt. Basically what it needs is what its worth if it were running well.
How hard it is to replace the transmission in this car? I have the 1.6L DOHC with the Automatic transmission.
I have an 02 GS with automatic transmission. The speedometer quit working and now the transmission does not shift out of 1st while driving. CEL is on but I'm waiting for a friend to come over and get the codes. It shifts into drive and reverse fine but I'm wondering if there is a speed sensor in the speedometer that signals the tranny when to shift?
View 4 Repliesmy 2002 Hyundai accent with 1.6 engine and the manual transmission has a problem in that where the axle shaft goes into the transmission is very loose. the problem is in the transmission, not the axel. Is there a bearing in the transmission for this. Or is there something else that could do it.
View 3 RepliesMy car has started to do something odd. Whenever I am in 3rd gear, at about 2000-2200 rpm, the engine will revup 100 rpm or so and then back down (only for a split second). This only happens on 3rd gear and only at about 2000 rpm. Its a 2005 Hyundai Accent Hatchback with an automatic transmission with Royal Purple ATF. I also have a SRI and manga-flow muffler (if that makes any difference).
View 1 RepliesI don't like the way my transmission switches gears, is it possible to make the car change gears with 0.5 revs more then what it is right now... I feel like Hyundai only considered gas mileage for this car and didn't even think about the stress on transmission and engine...
I want the car to switch gears on higher revs then it is right now..
2012 Accent GS hatchback... Automatic transmission
My 2002 1.5td accent starts from cold every time but if drive about half a mile then stop when i restart it wont get past about 1200 revs. i leave it for 5 mins then runs fine...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Hyundai Accent 4-door 1.4L auto, 123,000 miles.
Before you ask: The high mileage is because it's used for a newspaper route. We(as in, myself and my father) take great efforts to keep it in as good a shape as possible given the amount of stress this puts on it - one minor deer impact aside, I think we've done a good job.
Recently(read: a week ago), we replaced the purge flow valve due to it causing stalls and difficulty starting after refueling. After a week of apparently fine operation, as I was nearing completion of the route, a very clear cylinder misfire began. Not the worst misfire I've ever heard - the car barely seemed to struggle on initial acceleration(except in reverse, which made me slightly concerned I wasn't feeling an engine issue, but a transmission issue), and only got really shaky at higher revs.
We have an OBD-II reader at home, so when I returned I plugged it and discovered not one, but TWO error codes: P0497 -low purge flow- and P0301 -Cylinder 1 misfire- with the reader listing them in that order.
Looking up information on these two being connected has turned up little support - I've only learned that either one can be cause and effect. Needless to say given timing I strongly believe that it is highly likely that we either made a mistake installing the new valve, or that the new valve was bad from the get-go.
We'll be checking the spark plugs as soon as we are able(I am about to go to sleep and my dad has work - we tag team automotive repairs since two sets of eyes and two brains can figure things out better and an extra set of hands is always good to have ready even if only one set can actually do the job), but even if the problem isn't the spark plugs, it doesn't automatically mean it's the purge valve, either - at least as I understand things.
So with the background out of the way, my questions are thus:
1) Is the spark plugs don't fix anything, what is the quickest way to figure out which error is cause and which error is effect?
2) Are there any serious risks to continuing to run the car in this state if a fix cannot be made immediately? (being able to borrow another car is possible, but problematic - need to stick with this car if safely doable)
I own a manual accent from the 2000 that I have since last December. Fuel pump and battery are new, I changed them after getting the car.
The issues I have and I think they are due to the same reason, are the following.
1. Sometimes, when I turn the key to on position and before cranking, the engine light blinks and the car wouldn't start. Then I remove the key and try again until the light doesn't blink and then the car would start. This could be the second time, the third time or after several times. When the light blinks and I try to start the car, I can hear the fuel pump and the battery working, so the problem must be somewhere else. Also, this issue happens very randomly, it may doesn't happen during two weeks and then it happens one day and next day is OK again.
2. Few times it happened that even if the engine light wasn't blinking, the car started but like without enough power and then it stalled, I tried again, and it has always started OK the second time.
3. A couple of times, I was on the road and stopped the car in a red light and it stalled when I switched to neutral.
4. The car sometimes struggles with the first gear, when I'm switching from neutral to first gear to start the car (after being stopped in a red light for example). The car would start very slowly, even if I'm pushing the accelerator and don't have my foot on the clutch anymore. But after few seconds, the car runs well and I switch to second gear, third gear, etc. and runs perfect. Above 10-20 km/h the car runs perfect, I only have issues (sometimes, not always) at very low speed in first gear.
I think that's it. So far, my mechanic has checked the code problem and he coded a new key, thinking that it was a communication problem between the key and the engine, but it didn't solve the problem. I don't know where to bring the car, because every time someone checks it, they can't find the problem or a solution and I don't want to spend more money for no reason. But I'm also worried that the car breaks down one day in the middle of the road or when I'm in the field with volunteers (I need the car to do field work, but luckily it's not a remote area.
Last weekend on my way home from work, I heard this small "thump" noise then a rattling noise started. It really sounds like spinning a marble in a plastic bottle.
I got the car checked and we got code 0734 (Gear 4 ratio incorrect). We think there might be a tooth missing on the gear, but the mechanic wasn't entirely sure, as he wasn't a transmission specialist.
Now, I fear this may cost me my first born child, and I might just end up buying a cheap car for the Winter and get rid of this one; the transmission repair costs are ridiculous.
I've been driving the car in the city (30-50 km/h at most), I'm trying to avoid the highway, I'm afraid I'll blow it, who knows.
It has an automatic transmission, with 125,000 km on it, 2003 make.
The noise only happens when the car is moving forward, not when idling/parked, not in reverse. I am very gentle with the car, no highway speeding, no sudden speeding. I did however do an oil change a little over a month ago, and read somewhere on here that if the wrong fluid was used during maintenance that it could cause problems. I will call the shop and ask them about it.
I recently purchased a f150 with a reg cab short bed 4.6 4x4, and when you put it in drive the it shifts up to second fine, but when goes to third just revs up doesnt pull at all. Have to shut o.d. off and goes steady but run 2500 rpms to go 40 mph. I was told to check the solenoids but i dont know, if i do need a new trans how do i identify my trans. I know it has the code "U" on the door sticker, but its an 4r70 w code-w. But the junk yard has a YL3P-FA and a YL3P-JA?
View 1 RepliesI bought my Hyundai new in late 2011. No problems with the car (other than no spare tire???) until just out of the warranty (63,000). Had a noticeable drop in power on the highway. No warning lights. Drove another 100 miles with power intermittently dropping. Next day engine light comes on. $800 later I have a new high pressure fuel pump. All seems well. after a few weeks, I notice that the car seems to be revving when I depress the clutch to change gears, like up to 4000 rpm's. If I leave the clutch in for a few seconds it will begin to decrease. But if I shift right into gear as I have done for the last 35 years of driving, it is not smooth, jerky. This seems to happen mostly going into 2,3, and 4th gear, always going up. It never happens when downshifting. I tried tapping the brakes when shifting up, and sometimes it does seems to drop the rpm's. What it might be. It probably is related to the work that was done, but I don't really trust the dealer and want to have a little info going in.
View 1 RepliesAfter the car has been sitting for a while (say about 8 hours or so) I will turn the car on and I will always wait about 30 seconds or so before moving off just to let the oil start moving around. If I go to take off the engine shudders and sounds like its about to stall and the engine revs drop to almost around 300-400 revs then suddenly come back up.
Now I drive a manual car and I know there will be people there that will say I obviously cant use the clutch very well. This happens from anywhere from a flat to a decent incline in rain or sunshine, night and day, and all different external temperatures.
But that isn't all, the kicker is if I give the throttle a quick jab to bring the revs to around 1200-1500 revs, go to take off and the car is fine. ONLY happens once after sitting around for a while, basically after the engine has a good time to cool off to completely cold. Little side note, this has been getting more frequent over the last 3 months.