I bought a 02 accent base model hb 5 speed 109k miles for a winter car (have a mustang in garage.) It ran good until tonight when the timing belt snapped. I know this because while driving it made some ticking noises and then shut off and when you try to start it the noise that comes indicates no compression so the belt must've snapped and bent the valves.
View 3 RepliesI had the Timing belt, roller, tensioner, belts, etc replaced and I am getting this funny ticking noise after the engine tuns on. It seems to go away after the engine warms up but not all the time. I have the AWM engine and bought the kit from ECS tuning. My mechanic (who is excellent and beyond honest) thinks that I have sludge in the engine. The engine was super quiet before the whole kit was replaced so I doubt that all of a sudden the sludge, if present, would cause this. I have been meticulous with oil changes and always used the appropriate weight and type. Castol Syntec 502. My mechanic told me that the belts and everything looked in great shape at 89000 miles. I wonder if I should have bought OEM parts. Otherwise the car runs perfectly.
View 1 RepliesI just changed the timing belt and everything runs great. I pushed the AC button and no light came on. I checked all the fuses and they are good I took the H and L caps of and tapped the pin and there was air blasting out. Don't know what it could be? All I did was loosen the compressor and remove the belt and put it back on.
View 2 RepliesI just finished replacing my timing belt, water pump and all belts. I made sure to double check the timing marks lined up via this pic:
Timing belt diagram
I put everything back together and no go. I am not sure what to do now. Should the crank sprocket pulley be in a special starting position? I see is has a "1" engraved on it.
I recently had a good amount of work done to my Mk4 R32. Last night on my drive home from the stealership I ended up with a passenger headlight out and a very loud clicking/ticking noise which seems to be coming from the Serpentine belt area. After closer inspection it looks like the tensioner lines are't lined up which means my belt and tensioner need to be replaced? I'm not sure, but I have a video and this picture.
View 7 RepliesMy mechanic just did the timing bet, water pump and other belts. Also changed the tensioner.
Car runs fine and everything seems great until I get to a red light. The engine sounds louder then before. Not very loud but its louder and maybe a very slight vibration, not sure yet. No noises while driving, seems like its running the same or better then before. Runs fine though
Is there a "how to" on adjusting the tension of the timing belt in a 2002 accent 1.5L ....
View 1 Replies2004 Accent 1.6L
Changed the timing belt and water pump this past weekend. I made sure the timing marks aligned before I put the belts on. They were still aligned after turning the engine by hand and still aligned after taking the car out for a test drive. I did not notice rough idle when I started the engine in the garage nor did I notice a rough idle during the test drive.
A few days later I am now noticing the car will idle roughly when I come to a stop. The idle will get rough enough to gently shake the car. No engine light and no unusual noise from the engine.
I am going to check the timing marks again tonight. I suspect the belt may actually be off by one tooth. I have driven over 100 miles since changing the belt so I don't believe it is off anymore than one tooth or else I presume I'd probably have already broken down or been hearing unusual noises.
Furthermore, I do not seem to have any loss in power. I still have good acceleration and no roughness unless at idle engine speed. I do, however, run rough at higher speeds (75+ mph) on the highway, but this was present before the timing belt change. Unfortunately the car does not have an RPM gauge.
Having said all of this, are there any other possible reasons why I might be idling rough now?
Six months ago my 2005 Honda Pilot got a new timing belt that was incorrectly calibrated. When the Honda Dealer test drove the car, they damaged the values. They fixed the valve damage and gave me a discount on the timing belt. I considered selling the car, but decided to keep it.
Now it's six months later. When driving I hear a "clicking noise". The dealer says that the timing belt tensioner needs to be replaced and that it would be dangerous to drive it at high speed as it is now. The clicking is caused by a worn ??? tensioner.
They claim that the incorrectly calibrated timing belt could not have caused this problem with the tensioner.
I have an 03 Accent with an automatic transmission that was recently replaced. I'm getting a ticking noise and I removed the inspection cover and had a look and found that the thin plate bolted to the front of the torque converter is cracked at two of the ears where it bolts on so I suspect that is what's creating the noise.
I hate to have the trans on this car pulled again, I had it done once before because I don't have the tools here to do that. It's just an old work car that never is even driven on the freeway and I was wondering if simply welding that plate up would keep it going or is it something that will break and crack again.
I have a hyundai accent 04 when I start it up there seems to be a ticking noise under the hood. It seems if the car is warmed up the sound decreases. What's going on?
View 7 RepliesMy engine is making a ticking noise. Louder when I start it and not as intense after it warms up but its still there. I first thought it was one of my pulleys making noise but I brought it to a friend who knows a lot more then I do and he says to check the engine valves. Did some searching online and thinking it might be the valve lash adjuster but not sure.
Anyway whats the best way to go about this? What type of oil should I be using and I also read I should be only buying Hyundai oil filters?
When you start the engine on my 04 hyundai accent something under the hood is making a ticking sound. Seems if you run the engine awhile the ticking decreases. What this is?
View 5 RepliesRebuilt a motor due to the timing belt failing. Everything works except I can't get the timing to line up perfectly.
From what I'm getting from the service manual, line the camshaft sprocket with the mark visible from the hole
Line up the crankshaft gear with the yellow mark at the bottom.
Do I have to do a double/triple turn of the cam/cranks to get TDC to be achieved properly? My biggest problem on this car is having the crank gear shift a couple teeth after tensioning the belt.
i recently changed my engine oil and filter from carquest brand to quaker state and about 500 miles later, i started having some issues like, rough idle and loud ticking and bottom engine noise. is that just a coincidence or any problems with this oil? 1.6L D.O.H.C.
View 2 RepliesThe timing belt broke in my gf's '08 accent recently and I decided to have a crack at replacing the belt after getting a quote for $900 from the nearest mechanic (with no guarantee it would fix the problem).
When re-aligning the cam and crank to TDC, I wasn't sure if it mattered which revolution the crank was on (ie. 1st or 2nd revolution) when putting everything back together. I tested rotating the engine with the new belt on slowly to make sure there was no contact and everything seemed ok.
So basically now everything is back together, tried starting it up and it won't start and now i'm wondering if it would make a difference or not if the crank was rotated 1 additional revolution. Otherwise there is more significant damage.
Vehicle is an 08 Hyundai Accent 1.6L three door (hatchback) with 20,197 miles. This car was born on Oct. 16, 2007 and purchased in April of 2008. I told the owner to call the dealer and find out about when they should replace the timing belt as I had looked it up at the Gates site and found that it is an interference motor and also these Hyundai have some kind of lengthy warranty. When the tech or whoever she spoke to at the dealership asked about the mileage, they told her that she does not need to worry about the belt for about another five years, were rude and sounded inconvenienced by her calling. This leaves her with a bad taste in her mouth and more importantly, mis-informed.
I get the "Maintenance Log" out of the glove box and upon trying to decipher the timing belt interval, it states that the first course of action is an "inspection" at 30,000 miles or 24 months. How is a timing belt inspected? From what I have seen, a belt can look perfect today and snap tomorrow. But anyway, the next entry for severe service is replacement at 37,500 miles or 30 months which means this belt should have been replaced in October of 2010. Next entry is normal change at 60,000 miles or 48 months which puts us at April of 2012. After this it goes to 75,000 miles or 60 months.
I have already picked up the kit for changing the belt, tensioner, idler, and the two seals. How critical is it to change the spring as that was not included in the kit I got? I'm planning to do this job here in the next couple days as from what I can figure from the above log, It's way over due. I was reading some Hyundai forums and one stated that the 2011 model with the exact same engine calls for the first replacement due at 90,000 miles. How's this possible? Seems like these people (engineers) don't have all their stuff in one bag...
The steering on our 02 Accent has been becoming more and more difficult. The belt on the AC compressor snapped off recently. Could this missing belt be causing a problem with the power steering belt? The power steering belt is now making a squeaking noise.
View 3 RepliesI've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
View 19 RepliesIn the process of rebuilding a 2007 Accent where the timing belt broke while idling.
Pulled the head, ran a "water test" on the valves (put spark plug in, pour water on the valves and see if it comes out the exhaust/intake side) and found that only 2 intake valves were belt. Also shut off all the lights in a pitch black room, shined a flashlight in the intake/exhaust and didn't see any light leak from any of the cylinders except the one with the 2 bent valves.
Does this make sense? I would assume since 2 cylinders are always TDC at once, at least 4 valves would be bent.
Lastly, before rebuild I'll be replacing the 2 intake valves, all the valve stem seals, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, head gasket, head bolts and valve cover gasket. Anything else I should replace on the head? Trying to keep costs down as much as possible.
To add: Pistons have no damage on them, there are no marks of the valves hitting the pistons. The timing belt was replaced after it broke and the engine still ran however it ran rough. Compression test was done on only cylinder 1&2, 1 had 60 PSI and 2 had 0 PSI. Compression test was also done by just rotating the crank with a socket since I already had some of the engine disassembled.
I have a 2007 Accent with 119K on it.
I wanted to replace the water pump and I was wondering if this can be replaced without removing the timing belt or the lower timing belt cover?