Accent LC (2000-05) :: Thump But No Click When Key Turned In Ignition
Nov 2, 2012
So the lights work fine don't dim when trying to start the car. when you turn the ignition there is one thump but no clicks or revs like belts are moving. The battery is fairly new less than a year and as mentioned all electric things seem to be fine. I was also told by the tow guy that it was the starter but just want to be sure.
Advanced auto states they will test it but I need to get it out of the car. Only problem is I cant find it. I've looked at the manual online and seen numerous diagrams but I don't know the physical location of it do I need to get under the car to remove it? Do i need to remove anything to get to it? I haven't seen any live pictures showing where it is and I've googled it for a while now.
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My nice little 2002 GL 1.6 has 160K+ on it. Lately, when I come to a stop, I get a thump when she downshifts. I don't know which gear exactly, but it happens when the car reaches 10 MPH and below, so maybe when it goes into first? It is just as the car stops, it seems.
More recently, it seems as if when I get just about stopped, it feels as if she completely disengages from drive and goes into neutral. But it doesn't actually do that, she is fine when I take off. She upshifts just fine, it's just that last little bit when coming to a stop.
I have never had the transmission messed with very much, but I know it was serviced a few years ago. I did add a little fluid a few weeks ago after I checked it, and I was very careful to purchase the exact correct fluid.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent 1.6L GLS with auto transmission.
Recently, I've noticed a hard "tump" in the mornings when it auto shifts from first to second gear. It is loud and VERY noticeable. Aftera bout 7-10 minutes when the car warms completely up, it runs fine with not thump.
I've searched the forums for this and have found no answer.
It still runs fine but the morning "thump" scares the crap out of me and startles me every time.
I purchased the vehicle used a few months ago, it has 175,000 km on it. I don't know the history of the transmission but the car seems to be in really good shape otherwise...
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I have a 2008 Accent, automatic, with 167,000 mostly city kilometers on it. 3 times, yesterday and today, when I turned the ignition on it sounded like it was going to start but didn't catch. When I tried again the second time it started. At first, I thought I just didn't turn the key to the right long enough but with it happening 3 times, I am not so sure.
I called my mechanic and he thought it might be the fuel pump. He suggested I turn it to the right then back 2 times, then start it the third time. I have spent a lot on it lately, new tires in April, transmission fluid, also had to replace the tie rod on one front wheel and bearings on the other. If it is the fuel pump, what happens if I don't replace it soon?
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I just bought a 2004 hyundai accent 1.6L standard transmission on the 13th of June, ran great drove it everyday, was driving fine when I came home monday night, went to drive it yesterday and get nothing, turn the key no click, no crank, the radio turns off as it always did when you try to start, I checked the fuses, and the battery shows twelve volts on the meter, what could cause this to abruptly happen?
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This started a few months ago. At first it only happened when making a hard right turn, its a repeated click or grinding noise. Over time it has gotten worse, and now happens when turning either direction, and its worse the faster the car is going. Turing into the parking space at our apartment is fine... turning from one street to another going to work is not. Various things I looked up suggested the cv joint, but when I went to parts stores websites to look up prices all it gave me was cv boot kits in the results. Is this whats actually wrong, and is it something easily fixed for a DIY person?
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I have a Toyota Tundra 2000 SR5 V8 4.7L with about 100k miles on it. Today the starter did not disengage after I turned the ignition off. I did not disconnect the battery in time and now the battery is completely dead (no charge even to the door locks). About two months ago I replaced a three-year-old battery after I could not start the truck and measured only about 9 volts on the battery with a multimeter. Now I realize that a starter already going bad was probably affecting the first battery.
Questions: Does it sound right that a starter that does not disengage will kill a battery pretty quickly? For a starter that does not disengage, are we looking at the starter or the solenoid or the relay or not enough information yet to know? Does this model Tundra have an integrated starter and solenoid or separate? Where is the starter? Is there any recommended order of replacement/troubleshooting (for example, start with the relay, or it's probably the solenoid so start there).
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Recently, my Accent has been acting up (twice) while filling the tank. I haven't done any work on it that would cause this recently, but while fueling, the pump will click and stop repeatedly, as if the tank was full. It takes sometimes 20 minutes just to put 8 gallons in it. I've tried two separate pumps. Next fill-up, I'll try a different gas station because I've heard that can sometimes be a problem. They said their pumps weren't empty so that's not the case.
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My fiance was driving my 2001 Accent, 1.6 manual trans, when it suddenly died. Now when I try to start it, I only get a single click. I also tried popping the clutch and nothing.
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When I'm turning left or right I'm hearing a click-clack from the front, what this may be?
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Not sure if normal or a malfunction. Twice over the winter here in MN I have been accelerating and when I hit a icy patch the car made a loud thump/clunk noise loud enough to make be think something broke or that I ran over something like an ice block.
I had it looked at by the dealer and everything is suppose to be working normal. I tried to replicate ite on some ice but the traction control kicks in like normal with the flashing and all. I don't normally accelerate hard so it's rare I get traction control to activate.
Car is TDI SE
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So this morning, it was -5 degrees outside. I put the key in the ignition, but I could not turn it forward at all, it was like it was frozen. So I took a lighter, heated up my key, and put it in the ignition, let it set for a few seconds, and I was able to turn it over. I have had to this every winter so far, but it only happens when it is really cold out. The only thing I can think of is moisture in the ignition.
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I hear hissing noise when my car A/C is turned on. I have show it in Firestone and the person is like everything seems fine. I do not understand the reason. But the A/C works without any issues.
The hissing noise can be heard everyday when i turn on my A/C initially and later in between i can hear 2 -3 times a day when i go to my office.
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Ignition turns over, but no sound. There is power to lights, radio, etc. Tried a boost, thinking it was battery, but the boost was unsuccessful. Tried using the spare key but that was also unsuccessful.
The tow driver said it sounded like a fuse or clutch safety sensor. I also heard that it could be the battery leads. We're fairly new at fixing the car ourselves, learning as we go, so not knowing some otherwise basic things, like how to clean and tighten battery leads, what fuse to change, or what the heck a clutch safety sensor is.
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I got a problem with me partners accent 2003 hatchback, after she filled up with fuel and turned the air-con on the speedo didn't work like it read 0, but while driving and turning the aircon off speedo started working again..... What was wrong or happened? as now it wont do it....it works fine??
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BCAA at the tow mentioned that there was no electrical firing when I turned the key, as a result I purchased a new cam shaft sensor and installed today but the problem still persists. I 'm thinking I need to get the other half of the sensor that plugs into its female part, but am uncertain if there are any other potential possibilities to the problem at hand.
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My girlfriend has a 2005 Accent and recently we went to go drive it and the battery was dead. I noticed that when we shut the car off the black LCD Odometer display was staying on the dash with the power shut off and no key in the ignition. I figured out which Fuse it was under the hood and pulled it. The odometer lcd turned off and we also lost all of the interior lights.. When I ran the car with the fuse pulled the Odometer LCD would display normally but somehow the battery is still managing to drain even with the Fuse pulled.. Any wiring diagrams for the fuse panel under the hood, if it could be a relay that is still drawing power when the car is shut off..
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In the mornings when I turn the ignition switch to on right before starting, I don't hear the fuel pump wining. I notice the wining on almost every other car that Ive drove. I don't know if its because of this I get a rough start. It usually happens only in the mornings especially on cold days. During the rest of the day I can hear it clear and it turns on right away with no problem. I have tried to turn the ignition switch on then off then back on to see if the pump would turn on but nothing. Also sometimes I have to keep the gas pedal down about half ways for it to turn on and not stall. Tomorrow I am going to check to see if any fuel lines are clogged.
Car is a 2000 accent gs 1.5l 12sohc ... With about 87500 miles on it ...
Anything I should replace with these many miles ... Planning to replace spark plugs and timing belt myself ...
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My 2004 Accent is stuck in the "lock" position in the ignition, and the wheel is locked and barely turns in either direction. I know this is supposed to be an anti-theft feature and I've tried all of the solutions listed here...
Turning the wheel hard and soft in either direction while holding the brake all the way down and trying to turn the key. Putting the car in neutral and then park and trying the above Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and trying the above Jacking the car up on one side to release the tension on the pin.
My question is can I remove the spring at the bottom of the locking pin by drilling a hole in the center of the plate? I've seen a few youtube videos of this done on BMW's. It will cost me $500 minimum to replace the ignition or steering column based on quotes I got.
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I went out last night (fire training) and when I returned to my car, I unlocked it with the fob button, got in and put the key in the ignition and no click.... the key will not turn. This is the same key I drove out with. I thought if my kessey is bad, both of my keys are "locked out" My wife came out with my second key fob and the car started with no issues. My main key still won't turn in the ignition. So how do I get my car to like my main key again?
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I took the starter off over last weekend, tested it and it was working. I can hear a click every time I turn the key in the ignition but nothing after. The first time that happen I couldn't move the stick either. I change the brake light switch now it seems that I can move the shift freely but still doesn't start. In Park or Neutral I can hear a click, if I put in gear and try to start I hear nothing. So I'm thinking that it cannot be the switch Park/Neutral not working because I would not hear a click anytime.
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