Accent LC (2000-05) :: The Brakes Would Not Work
Dec 12, 2011
My daughter owns a 2002 Accent GL with auto trans. Over the weekend I worked on the cars front end. It needed new CV shafts,front bearings,a tie rod end, ball joints and front brake pads. I drained the trans fluid to prevent leaks when the shafts were removed and in the process of doing the brakes, I also had to use a tool to compress the puck on the disc brakes to get the new pads in. After everything was put back together and the trans fluid was added to the car, I started it up and went to back it out to test drive. To my dismay, the brakes would not work. I tried using the parking brake to stop ( didn't check it, foolish me) it was pretty loose. It backed into my Baja Bug, crunch. I put it in drive to get it off the bug, it then traveled at low speed heading for my restored 1955 Corvette in the garage. I put it in park, kept going, stomped on the brakes, it kept going until it crunched my Corvette. I was trying to turn it off while this was going on, it took place in a space of 20 feet, so not much time to react.
Pushed it back and put it back in park, started it up again, gave it a minute and all was good. I think the brakes just needed a bit more vacuum to function after the pucks were compressed and maybe the trans did not respond well due to the low fluid level until it was pumping again. Just wanted other users to be aware of what happened to me and to be aware. Runs great now after low speed rampage.
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I just purchased a 2005 Hyundai Accent. The rear right door handle does not work. Do I need to replace it? How do I fix it?
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I got a problem with me partners accent 2003 hatchback, after she filled up with fuel and turned the air-con on the speedo didn't work like it read 0, but while driving and turning the aircon off speedo started working again..... What was wrong or happened? as now it wont do it....it works fine??
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Was coming back from my parents house yesterday night, it started down pouring real hard. I come to turn the wipers on but nothing...so put my hazards on(4 way flashers) on then waited a bit. What it could be? If I do have to replace the motor, what do i need to take off to do so?
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All my lights on the driver side don't work, replaced brake light and then nothing. Would it be a fuse? if so which one or wiring and how would I go about finding the fault.
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I've noticed that from any higher speeds (over 100kmh) if the brakes are hit hard, they will suffer from severe fade and are useless until they cool for quite a while. Second, I don't know if it is simply my accent, but I just had the front pads done last year (they only have maybe 10 000km on them) and the brake pedal has probably 3/4"-1" of travel before any real stopping power kicks in. My parents just bought an 09 accent and the braking performance is just soo much better! I want to know if there is any way to bring my 02 accent on part with that of newer models. Do the calipers/rotors/etc from an 06+ model year will fit the 02?
I really have a sponge of a brake pedal and really want something done about it and I will go as far as it takes to get better performance out of my brakes.
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The rear brakes on my 2003 Accent keep loosening. I'm trying to see if the problem is the brakes or the parking brake.
I changed the brake shoes and rotors at the end of last summer. I kept the old adjuster.
During the winter I noticed my parking brake becoming more and more loose. The parking brake light came on. At one point I noticed that the parking didn't even stop the car when in drive.
I tightened the nut for the parking brake until it clicked 7-8 times before it was fully engaged. But it still didn't stop the car when i was in drive.
So I checked my brakes and one of them was really loose. I adjusted it until with a good swing the wheel made only one full revolution.
The other side was good so i left it as is.
I check the parking brake nut again and the brakes were working as they should. The parking brake stopped the car when I was driving so I though everything was fine.
This week, I am having the same problem. The parking brake doesn't seem to have loosened a whole lot, but my parking brake light is always on, and It won't stop the car when I am driving.
I'll check the brakes and try to adjust them again this weekend or sometime this week, but what should I be looking for? Is this a common thing? I'll go to the parts store to see if they have the adjuster part and try changing it.
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I bought the car maybe months ago and the gas gauge nor the thermostat worked. The fan kicks on just fine never seems like it's over heating and it doesn't lose water or anything like that. For some reason it's a pain in the booty hole to put in gas it stops every 45 cents. When I first got the car the dash lights didn't want to work but kicked in and now they work fine also the AC button doesn't light up or turn on and the dome light also doesn't work.
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I have a 2000 Hyundai accent and the exterior door handle on the driver side does not work. It will open from the inside...I already have the door panel off but not sure how to fix the rest.
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My vehicle is a 2005 Hyundai Accent GLS with 38,000 miles.
I recently had work done on my rear brakes after having a pretty horrific, loud metal-on-metal grinding/screeching sound. - the pads are still at 60 percent so they did not put on new pads, but they did a rear brake adjustment, shaved the rear rotors, etc.
That horrible sound is gone, but it has been replaced by a low-frequency groan from the rear brakes under hard stopping, from about 10mph down to 0mph. I honestly could not even hear it myself with the radio on but noticed it when coming to a stop without the radio on. It usually stops happening after a couple hard stops, then happens again the next time I get in the car and go somewhere.
To describe the sound, under those exact braking conditions it almost sounds like what driving a car through snow sounds like. Or a shoveling snow sound, minus the sound of the shovel itself hitting the ground. I am not noticing any corresponding vibration or decrease in stopping power.
Not sure if that makes any sense, but it's the best I can do. Could it simply be rust buildup working its way out? We have had a wet, cold, snowy winter and my car is parked outside every night overnight.
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Why won't my hatch light turn off unless, I depress the brake pedal? I even disconnected the wire going to the latch and the light still won't go out?
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I have a 2002 Accent with 119,000 miles on it. Its an automatic transmission. When I am driving the car feels like it surging forward while I have the brake on...its doesn't happen all the time. But when it does it surges for half a minute, then run fine and then surges again.
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About a year ago, I bled all 4 brakes and put in new fluid on my 01 Accent GS 1.6L auto. Still to this day, they are very spongy, and you have to push them far to get good stopping power. My pads are ok on the front, rear shoes are ok as well. No leak in lines anywhere. What's up with this?
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I use a bottle hanging like an I.V. drip to flush the Brake Fluid in all my cars. I can pump all the old fluid out, as well as the air. My Superduty 7.3 has a good solid brake pedal after the flush. It seems to me the rear brakes handle 60% of the stopping load. Its been like this for so long I'm not sure if it's ever been different. i then go to a gravel or wet road and test the rear abs, and it seems o work, but definitely has a squirrely feel. I did some strong pavement stops with speed, and it stops, no skidding. Is that the way it should be?
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I have a Volvo P1800 I am restoring. The problem I have is the brakes don't work. The brake peddle does to the floor so I think and have read that this is due to the master brake cylinder. I removed the to of the master reservoir and found it is bone dry but the main reservoir is full? Why this is if the seals have failed surely there would still be brake fluid in the master reservoir???
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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My brakes work well enough while going straight. However, when I am sharply turning the car and braking at the same time (like when I'm pulling into a parking space), the brakes don't work.
This is potentially dangerous for the pedestrians/other cars near me when I'm parking (but no accidents yet). A quick brake check by my mechanic while the car was in for something else showed nothing out of the ordinary in there. It's a 1995 Chevy Beretta.
Questions: What is causing it? How is it fixed? Is this something that a tinkering amateur can do, or should I go to a professional.
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My rear defogger stopped working this week. Just checked the fuse and that's still good. Where should i go from here?
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I have a 2010 Accent GS. I was trying to change the bulb in the trunk light. I changed the bulb and now none of the lights inside the car work-- map lights, dome light, trunk light. I figured it was a blown fuse. I looked at the fuse box inside the car and I think I found the fuse I think it's the one in that yellow box that is in the right side center of the fuse box. How do you pull that thing out? Are you supposed to pull out the individual fuses. I pulled the yellow box. It only comes half-way out. How do I check that little 10 amp fuse inside that yellow box?
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Windshield wipers don't work at all. Not even a little bit.
I first had a problem in the summer. The wipers stopped working for a day or two and then started working fine again. Now, they don't work at all. The fuse is fine (and was replaced even though it was fine). It isn't the switch as that has been replaced. It isn't the motor/wiper arms as that has been replaced. I don't see any damaged wires or anything.
I am hoping I am missing something really simple.
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It's been very hot for the past few weeks and I've been using my AC a lot. I've noticed that when the AC is on (4th setting, Max A/C), the engine works a lot harder when taking off from a stand still and going up hills. I can hear the engine struggling and I've often spotted the tach hitting close to 5,000 RPMs when taking off casually from a red light. It only does this with the AC on. I've recently replaced my engine and cabin air filters so I am ruling those out. Is it normal behavior?
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