Accent LC (2000-05) :: Stiff Accelerator Pedal / Have To Slightly Kick To Move It
Dec 7, 2012
My 2001 Hyundai accent hatchback with around 135000 miles is having problems with the gas pedal. I start my car and can't really push down the gas pedal smoothly. It is initially hard where I have to slightly kick the pedal to move it. Otherwise if I rest my foot on the pedal and try to press it down I end up press it down too much where my car goes flying. Every time I come to a stop I have to do that to get the pedal to move. Its not stiff once I get the pedal to push down some but once I take my foot off the pedal I have to slightly kick it back down.
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My girlfriend now encountered a brake problem twice: In those situations she needed to brake but the pedal was really stiff, did hardly move and the car did not brake. Only long hard pushing finally succeeded. The second time she nearly got into an accident because of this so we took the car to the dealer then who found nothing and said the brakes are ok. I drove the car the first 5k miles and never had such a problem.
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I have a 2006 F350 Crew Cab with the 6.0. It is used primarily for towing a fairly heavy 5th wheel RV. I find that the accelerator pedal pressure is much higher than any previous vehicle I have ever owned. The problem is magnified by the fact that I have a previous ankle injury that makes it very uncomfortable to have to press on the accelerator so hard for long periods of time.
I try to use the cruise, which sometimes works on flat ground, but the shift point at my desired cruising speed is such that the slightest grade will make it downshift. With the cruise off and my foot kept at a constant pressure, the truck pulls up the slight grades just fine with no significant loss of speed and no downshifting.
Is there any way to lighten the pressure it take to push down the accelerator? I know it is actually moving a throttle position sensor, but is there also a pedal return spring here that is too stiff for me?
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1996 Jaguar XJ6 4.0 Litre Base, 43000 miles... While driving, this car, suddenly accelerator pedal becomes very hard to push and car will not move at all even if you press hard pedal to the floor( Requires a lots of force). If I put brakes on, shift the transmission to reverse and to then to drive, it will start moving again. No check engine light comes on and there are no codes stored in computer. This never happens on cruise control. Car starts flawlessly even on cold morning. Battery is new and charging system works fine. Spark plugs were changed at 30,000 miles so also direct ignition coil on cylinder No.3 .....
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I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE (automatic transmission) with 90000 miles on it.
For a long time now I have dealt with a whining sound in my 2012 Toyota corolla. The symptoms are that the sound only happens when the accelerator pedal is slightly engaged. This happens at any speed. At the slightest push of the pedal a whining/spinning sound happens and if you maintain pedal engagement the sound of whining/spinning continues. The sound goes away instantly when the pedal is depressed and will again come back when engaged subsequent times.
I have been researching on the internet and I seem to be pointed in the direction of the transmission fluid to change from the Toyota Genuine ATF WS currently being used in the 2012 Toyota Corolla as the stock transmission fluid to Redline D4 as others have experienced a similar noise problem in 2010 corolla models and have made the noise go away by using the Redline D4 because of viscosity differences. I am not sure however if the same transmission model (U341E) is being used in all Corolla models.
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I'm looking at changing the height of the accelerator pedal so it's more inline with the brake pedal to make heel toe shifting easier, because at the moment I cannot get my heel anywhere near where the accelerator is.
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I own an Accent 2000 model Manual Transmission. When the motor gets hot , the gear lever become increasingly hard to move and eventually locks. i.e., after say 10 minutes.
If I stop the car, turn the motor off, the gear lever moves freely. Start the car up again and the gears seem to work for a while.. then it locks up again.
This happened about 2 months ago.... seemed to fix up for a while.. now its back permanently. I changed the trans oil.. it made no difference..
The cable to the trans seems ok.. When the motor is 'off' it never jams. BUT i am not using the clutch then !! Could it be clutch.??
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Last summer the a/c in the car was ice cold. And until last week, the compressor was engaging when using the defroster. I am sure it was working because I started it one night, switched the controls to defrost, and the belt squealed just a bit. I think it's become a little slack and I need to adjust it... Anyway, the weather has started to change, (in the 70's) so I thought I should kick on the a/c to make sure all is still good. It wasn't. The defrost will not kick on the compressor either? When I push the a/c switch, nothing happens. No green light in the switch, no compressor. The blower works though. I checked all the fuses that had anything indicating "a/c." All were good. I switched the a/c relay with the tail light relay, (seems to have the exact same ratings) no go. What gives? I figure it's not likely that it's low on Freon, it has never "short cycled." And, wouldn't the light on the switch come on under a low Freon situation? Lastly, why four pins on the low pressure switch? Any easiest way to check which system is the fault? Manually engage the compressor clutch, or maybe short the low pressure switch?
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I have a Hyundai Accent 2001 and today while driving the battery light and brake light both went on and the steering wheel became "stiff" - hard to turn - although driving in a straight line seemed to be as usual.
I would just take it to the garage, but although it still starts as usual, it seems hard and probably a bad idea to drive it there in its current condition.
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I've got a 2000 F250, 5.4L 4x4 with the ZF5 5-speed transmission. Three years ago I replaced the complete clutch assembly, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, etc, and had the flywheel re-machined. Put it back in and all has been well. Only has about 15k miles on it. Earlier this week I went to drive it and all of the sudden it started getting harder to shift and by the end of the trip the clutch will not disengage at all when I push the pedal in.
Furthermore the pedal is much harder to push than it always has been. Checked the reservoir and it's fine. After some searching it seems to most likely be an issue with the master and/or slave cylinder either needing to be bled or replaced. Further reading revealed that bleeding and recommends just replacing the whole system, so I've priced that out. Was it a master/slave issue? Anything else I should check in case it isn't?
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2000 Integra with 95k miles in an excellent condition - used pedal jack when parked
I had to make a left turn and ramp up so put it on D3 - I pressed the accelerator and when I felt the speed could be higher (I am not comfortable to drive up the hills) so I must have pressed hard on the accelerator. It then responded
Not sure what was happening, I started breaking and steering - still around 30mph, guessing - it was not a wild drive.
Still not satisfied, I moved to gear 2 and stopped the car. Realized the car is still pulling, turned off the engine and realized the accelerator pedal is stuck.
I pulled it and it has been fine! With the engine off, I pushed the pedal hard and it always bounced back. Not sure that the getting in and out the pedal jack had been interferring with the accel pedal. It also looks like the engineers did a good job that with the stuck accel pedal, I did not end up in a wild drive - I had to brake and move the tranny to 2 but was able stop it - it was a mild up the hill, but unsure if it played a big role.
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I have hyundai accent 2005 1341cc 86hp, with BRC LPG kit. When i start the car at the morning, the engine misfiring around 500rpm for a few second (5sec-10sec)...
Sometimes the engine start ok in the 1100rpm - 1200rpm and when I touch the accelerator then misfiring again!
The car have 133.000km (11.000km with LPG).
I have replace the petrol filter 2 days ago and the all electric system without multiplier. I have clean throttle valve and the injectors with stp cleaner.
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I have replaced the MAF sensor, TPS sensor, and fuel filter. Like the title says...if I rev the engine ...as soon as I let off the accelerator the engine stumbles and almost dies...then settles back down. I initially pulled codes PO121 so I replaced the TPS. PO103 so I replaced the MAF sensor. PO112..did not address directly as I assumed the MAF was causing. PO1123...again I hoped the parts I replaced would solve the problem. Initially the engine would just drop out while driving just for an instant and then be fine...also I had the 4 codes mentioned above. The only code that has returned is the PO121. I just got done replacing the fuel filter and things seem to be worse.
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I'm having an issue with my transmission. When driving it shifts just fine, but I have to let it accelerate slowly. If I press to hard on the accelerator pedal the engine ron races. So I ease up and it catches and slowly accelerates. For example going up hill, I press the accelerator and the car doesn't speed up, the engine races, so I have to just let the car slowly increase in speed by lightly pressing the gas pedal, no get up and go! Only occurs in 4th and 5th gears. What could be causing this. I have already flushed the gear oil as I had to replace the output shaft seal as it was leaking.
2000 Hyundai Accent 5 Speed Manual Transmission....
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Car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
When going at the desired speed (say 40mph) and there is lots of coasting room, I just let go off the accelerator and the car basically coasts. The engine RPM drops from 1600-1800 down to 900-1000 and it actually can coast a long way. Sometimes, I need to go faster (if I'm initially started at a slower speed) and when I press the gas pedal slightly, the tachometer shows the engine rpm jumps from the coasting 900-1000 to 1600-1800.
Is the tachometer (add on by ScanGuage) reporting it correctly? Is this a bad form of acceleration for the engine?
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Recently bought a 2001 Accent that has been experiencing a 'rough idle' for the last few weeks. Basically, after I've driven the car for a few minutes (from a cold engine position) and then stop at a stop light or stop sign, I can hear the engine get louder and the car starts to vibrate slightly, after I've driven for about 15 minutes at higher speeds and then stop again I can actually see the steering wheel shaking when I take my hands off of it. If i put the car in park when I am stopped and the engine is on, the idle calms down quite a bit. The weird part is that when I first start driving the car in the morning, the rough idle problem doesn't happen until about 5 minutes of steady driving - so when the engine is colder I don't experience the problem, The problem is not that serious, and Ive already brought it into a dealer who cleaned out fuel injection, gave me a major tune up and replaced all the spark plugs, but the problem still persists. I am gonna bring it back to them but they seem a bit lost to be honest. Other than this the car is driving normally when I am not idling.
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I recently parked my 2001 Accent for the past year and now the rear passenger side wheel won't move. I'm assuming it has seized. I am trying to open the drum for the rear wheel but am not really sure how. The wheel is removed so is the Bolt locking the drum in place. Should it now just pull off? I have a read that it is possible the emergency break is whats causing it to seize up. How does one manually removing the parking break lock ?
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What this may be. 2004 Accent Automatic. We just purchased recently for my daughters fist car. Today when leaving the house the car stays in first gear, you can move the shifter through the gears but it wont shift up. Reverse is fine. Checked the oil level in Neutral when hot and it was ok. Hooked up my code reader and there are no Codes. Car only has 85,000 KM on it.
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I drive hyundai accent 1.5l sohc.. Recently i was on my bots on turbo project.. The process when smoothly until i suddenly realized that my car was only move on 3rd gear.. then i took off my turbo out afraid of over boosting and straight go for diagnostic.. And error p0755 comes out.. So how to troubleshoot this problem..
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Bought a 2001 hyundai accent 1.3 si petrol manual 2 weeks ago. After pulling off today, i went to go into 2nd gear, and I couldn't move the gear stick. I parked up and turned the engine off, then started the ignition again. When the clutch is in, the gear stick will not move in any direction, its completely stuck, but when the clutch is out, the gear stick will move in all directions.
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2001 hyundai accent, HARD TO START. I have to start the car almost 3 times plus hit the gas pedal to get it working. I already replace battery, starter, spark plugs, spark plug wires and air filter.
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