Lately when I drive my car, I hear like a steam pressure release noise.. And happening ONLY when I have my Fan on in the car.
Sometimes it's soft and sometimes is a long loud one, and then you can feel the car holding in. (like quickly hitting the brakes a little bit)
How to explain it. I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent 2 doors.
The squeak is most pronounced when the brake pedal is released, but it still makes a quieter squeak when the pedal is depressed. I can't tell which side it is coming from; my guess is the middle of the rear or the left rear. I can't tell because I have to be in the car to release the brake (I guess I could tie a string around a brick and pull on it when I'm by the rear wheels). I should mention that all three of the belts are due for a change. Which part is causing the brake system squeak? The brakes work; replacing the squeaking part or parts is going to be lower on the project queue than the CD player/radio errors and replacing the belts, pulleys, etc. in the engine compartment (I've posted elsewhere on the forums about those issues).
View 5 RepliesAccent 2006. When I start the car and start to drive, the car rock on the driver's side. I think it's the driver's rear. Then the feeling of a flat tire is felt but the tire seems to be ok. Occasionally hear a loud noise like from the exhaust and when I stop at a stop sign or stop lights and release the brake the car does not move till the accelerator is pressed and it rocks again and moves. It has 99000 km on it.
View 1 RepliesI have hundai Accent 2003. It was working fine I parked it in the night came back in morning and it wont start and showing low oil pressure light. The ignition is not working.
View 1 RepliesI picked up an 02' accent, 1.5l that i've been intending to use as a commuter car. Drove fairly well on the way back home, but it seems it's got some low oil pressure issues once it's good an hot. As the oil pressure light will occasionally flicker at idle, mind you the car is near dying too.
Or so I thought, it was also misfiring/stumbling fairly badly,
Pulled all connections, cleaned, dielectric grease on them, fixed some of it. And it turns out the fellow who did the timing belt last didn't exactly remember to put the bolts back on the fuel rail.... Okay, that's fixed now.
Put in a little heavier oil, and no more issues with the light coming on, but I do have some lifter noise it seems like.
As well, the car will not rev past 5k in neutral or under load. Air filter is new, and no obstructions through to the intake manifold.
I'd guess based on the missing bolts here and there, the guy was a bit of a hackjob mechanic and i'm guessing has the belt out a tooth or so.... I can't see anywhere to stick a timing light on to verify ignition timing, how to check the timing belt is straight up? It's a bit of a dog compared to the other accent i've been in. The power band is like 2000-3500 and it just won't climb anywhere past that.
I own a 2000 Hyundai Accent with 85,000 miles on it. I recently took my car into a local shop because the pressure on my brake pedal was extremely low. I was almost pushing it to the floor. On my first trip to the shop, they replaced the rear wheel cylinders because they were leaking. This replacement didn't fix my problem.
On the second trip to the shop, they replaced my master cylinder. I did call around to other shops to do a price comparison and the price was reasonable on both jobs. This work was done about two weeks ago.
At first, this seemed to fix my problem, the pressure was perfect. Since then I've been having an intermittent problem with the brake pedal pressure changing. It would get a little hard during driving, but would correct itself after a few moments. I don't drive that often or very far, so I was waiting to see if the problem would get worse.
Last night it did. I went out and when I tried to drive my car home my pedal was extremely hard. I could barely push it. While I was driving my car home (I was close to home), it felt like I was driving with my brakes on. My car would stop as soon as I took my foot off the gas pedal, I could not coast. When I got out, I could feel heat coming from the front tires, which I didn't even have work done on. There was also a smell that I've never smelled before. It almost smelled like something burning.
I was told I should have my car towed back to the shop on a lifted bed and not rolled there and that they should fix my car at no charge because they did something wrong.
My ultimate question is did the shop do something wrong and should I take it back to them if they did? Should they be responsible for this new repair? I don't want to go demanding anything if it's possible this is a whole new problem and not their fault. Even though it does seem like an awfully big coincidence. My next question is: what could be possibly wrong with my car? I would like to know what I'm getting myself into.
I have an 03 Accent. The all metal high pressure power steering line had a leak. So I bought a new one for around 70 dollars from Hyundai. This part has a curved shape and fits around the radiator. The old one was difficult to get off, but the new one is proving impossible to get on. I cant get it into place.
View 2 RepliesMy son recently bought a 2006 Subaru Impreza with a manual transmission . He has driven it a few thousand miles & it seems to run fine with no obvious problems . Ever so often he hears a brief pssst . I haven't heard it but from his description it sounds like a brief release of pressure . It does it at idle & also while driving down the road . As far as he can tell there is no rhyme or reason to it . What it might be ?
View 3 RepliesI have a 92 Park Ave and the right front brake caliper will squeeze then release pressure even while holding the brake pedal down, which does not go to the floor, the left front brake is doing most of the stopping. I have bleed that caliper but still same problem. Is the ABS module proportioning wrong? By the way, the brake pads are brand new.
View 5 RepliesI have a new 04 F350 with only 2300 miles on it. Every once in awhile, I will get a sound coming from under the driver side of the vehicle engine compartment that sounds like back pressure being released. It happens when I am up around 2000 or more rpms and let off of the accelerator. I am gonna take the truck into the shop the first of next week just to get it checked but thought I would ask here first. It only happens when i am above 2000 rpms though.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2013 Accent SE and am having trouble with the trunk release -- it doesn't work. It looks like the part in the trunk may have come loose or something.
View 9 RepliesI am having an oil pressure issue on a 2000 F-150, 4.6L.
I recently put a new set of heads on the motor because of some valve damage. Anyways. The oil pressure gauge in dash would sit at around 3/4.. Drive it a couple miles and every time you would get back to idle (stop sign) it would drop to zero and the light would come on.
You could also hear it make a little noise like the top end wasn't getting oil. (Didn't run at idle long..) I figured it was obviously starved of oil so I put a new oil pump, timing chains/guides/tensioners on. (Which I probably should have done with the heads.) Same issue resulted, but no funny noises when the gauge drops off.
Suspecting that the sensor may be faulty and the dash gauge being useless anyways, I dug an old mechanical gauge out of a box and installed it. I'm getting similar oil results. (Under 25psi it seems.) I'm not sure if the gauge has just gone to crap over the years of being in a box. However, the previous low-oil pressure issue seems to confirm it's not the gauge.
I cleaned the oil pickup when I had the motor apart. It didn't seem dirty, but I sprayed it out regardless. The motor looked fairly fresh when I had it apart. Bearings looked solid, cylinder walls even looked freshly honed. From what I hear, the motor was a low-mileage replacement.
So what could cause a low-oil pressure issue? Bearings seem fine, oil pump is brand new.
I have an 03 Accent with an automatic transmission that was recently replaced. I'm getting a ticking noise and I removed the inspection cover and had a look and found that the thin plate bolted to the front of the torque converter is cracked at two of the ears where it bolts on so I suspect that is what's creating the noise.
I hate to have the trans on this car pulled again, I had it done once before because I don't have the tools here to do that. It's just an old work car that never is even driven on the freeway and I was wondering if simply welding that plate up would keep it going or is it something that will break and crack again.
Car ran dangerously low on oil (oil leak that we didn't know was present) and started knocking quite badly.
I pulled the valve cover to check the lifters and everything seemed fine up top. I tried to drop the oil pan but I couldn't get it to separate from the block.
If I can remove the oil pan are the main and rod bearings that hard to change or do they require special tools?
I have a hyundai accent 04 when I start it up there seems to be a ticking noise under the hood. It seems if the car is warmed up the sound decreases. What's going on?
View 7 RepliesMy daughter has a 2005 Accent. She has had it for about a year and it has about 120k on it. She has started to hear a "clunking" noise, based on the sound we think it comes from the driver's side rear. You can feel the car jolt some when the clunking noise happens. Seems to happen on acceleration but does not happen all the time.
Now I have heard/felt the noise/jolt one time and if I did not know better I would say that it was the drive shaft universal. But this being a front wheel drive car there should not be a drive shaft in the rear.
My 2000 accent (manual) suddenly started making a LOT of road noise - like I'm driving on off-road tires. It's speed-sensitive. At 20MPH, it sounds like a trilled R, spanish style - like in "perro." Above 30, it's just a roar.
It's there even with the car in neutral and engine off. It goes away completely when turning right, such as on a freeway exit ramp. It does not go away when turning left.
CV boots are intact, no grease to be seen. It started with a set of tires that were due for replacement, so I replaced 'em and the noise hasn't changed. I've jacked it up and don't notice anything unusual when spinning the tires by hand. I even had wifey spin them while I was under the car feeling around the shafts - nothing interesting.
Also, occasionally, I hear a single "doing" sound (like metal rod striking something), from what sounds like front center of the car. Might be unrelated, but I never noticed it until the road noise started up.
My car makes a low like growling noise when I push on the gas. It does it into first and second gears. Its not constant just mainly after the car has bit sitting a while. What the problem could be?
View 1 RepliesI hear hissing noise when my car A/C is turned on. I have show it in Firestone and the person is like everything seems fine. I do not understand the reason. But the A/C works without any issues.
The hissing noise can be heard everyday when i turn on my A/C initially and later in between i can hear 2 -3 times a day when i go to my office.
So I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent, 1.5L with an automatic transmission. I'm hearing a grinding noise when I'm driving. It gets faster as the car goes faster, but the engine RPM has no effect only the speed of the car.
I got new tires, changed the CV axle shaft on both sides, and I also changed the front struts as I was told that one of the struts was bad the last time I took the car for an alignment. None of that has had any effect on the grinding noise.
Then I jacked the car up on both sides and let the wheels spin, and the grinding noise is present that way as well. Then I jacked up just one side at a time. When the driver's side wheel is spinning, the noise is audible, but not when just the passenger side is spinning.
I then disconnected the brake caliper from the driver's side and held it up with a tie wrap to keep it out of the way. The noise is still audible when the wheel is spinning, so it's not the pads or a clip or anything like that.
So now I'm down to a couple of ideas.
1) Wheel bearings
2) Something is hosed in the differential or transmission. I'm guessing that the differential is more likely, as the transmission should effect both sides the same, right?
I'm going to check the wheel bearings now, though to me it seems unlikely to be the problem.
Tonight when I was driving home, I drove my 1999 Buick Regal through a deep puddle kinda fast- the water went up to the windows on my car. A few seconds later, when I was pulling into my parking space, my car started to make a "mrrrrrmrrr" sound and I noticed steam coming off the right side of my car where the puddle had been. I was able to park and check under the hood but there was no smoke- just some steam and a little bit of a burning rubber smell. There seemed to be some water on the engine- not a lot, it was already drying up when I took a look at it. I also noticed that there was also an oily (not all oil- just oil mixed in the the water puddles on the ground) trail from just outside the puddle to where I had parked. I let the car sit for a few minutes and then drove it a few feet to repark it. It seemed OK- it didn't make the noise again or steam. No lights came on. Is it possible that I've seriously damaged my car or could some water have come up under the hood and onto the engine causing the steam and some oily runoff?
View 2 Replies