Accent LC (2000-05) :: Starts But Stop After Running For Less Than A Minute
Sep 28, 2013
Car starts but dies after it runs less than a minute. Put new gas pump and filter and didn't work. What else can I check?
View 6 RepliesCar starts but dies after it runs less than a minute. Put new gas pump and filter and didn't work. What else can I check?
View 6 RepliesMy 2000 4 dr Accent got flooded last night in a rainstorm. The water came up over the shifter in the floor, but not past the cigarette lighter. I probably should just write it off, but I'm pretty much way too broke to buy a new car and I need one for my job (substitute teaching).
Anyways - the car starts, but I can't shift out of park. I moved it using that little override switch. My brake lights, signal lights, etc. all work. I don't know what it could be, because the only other post I saw close to this said to check if the brake lights were not working and what to do if they weren't.
So I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L. My car will drive 1-2 miles then it dies. After I let it sit for about 10 minutes it starts up again. I am getting to the end of what I know to do. I have replaced the ECU, Main relay, most of the sensors, Fuel pump, and fuel filter. When I bring it in to get the codes for it all I get is sensor faults even though I have replaced them. I am going to let it run for a little while and see if I can feel any heat from any relays under the dash. I like this car but not sure what else I can do.
View 4 RepliesI drive a 2002 Accent GL, automatic transmission with only 86,000 on it. For a while now I've been having transmission issues where the car will jerk violently when shifting or starts to rev in certain gear or in park. It also doesn't seem like it knows what gear it wants to be in half the time when I accelerate. Recently, while driving somewhere, it got real worse. It started revving and jumping and redlining and just going crazy while I was driving. I turned the car off and waited a while and turned it back down and it seemed to calm the issue a bit.
But I am afraid to drive right now. It's not the fluid. I've changed it twice in the past two years. Never works. I've seen issues like this on here before. If it IS the transmission needing to be replaced, why so soon with just 86,000 miles on it? And would having the transmission rebuilt be a better choice, cost-wise, but still just as effective?
A few days ago, I went to start the car, and it will start, and idle fine for a few seconds, and then begin to run crappy, idle down, and die. I tried starting it, and giving it some accelerator pedal, and it dies. I changed the timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner this summer, so I'm ruling out a bad timing belt. There is no check engine light, and I replaced the plug wires because when I removed the cover, I noticed one of them was worn in a spot, and the wire shielding inside the rubber insulation was visible.
View 11 RepliesWhen engine is cold it starts fine, when hot from driving (e.g. the engine's temperature display's needle is in the middle) i cannot start it unless i try 3-4 LONG keys. What can it be? Where should i start?
View 17 RepliesSometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. It it the blower, the switch or the little box behind the blower? When it does work, it starts out slow and slowly gains speed.
View 1 RepliesRecently bought a 2001 Accent that has been experiencing a 'rough idle' for the last few weeks. Basically, after I've driven the car for a few minutes (from a cold engine position) and then stop at a stop light or stop sign, I can hear the engine get louder and the car starts to vibrate slightly, after I've driven for about 15 minutes at higher speeds and then stop again I can actually see the steering wheel shaking when I take my hands off of it. If i put the car in park when I am stopped and the engine is on, the idle calms down quite a bit. The weird part is that when I first start driving the car in the morning, the rough idle problem doesn't happen until about 5 minutes of steady driving - so when the engine is colder I don't experience the problem, The problem is not that serious, and Ive already brought it into a dealer who cleaned out fuel injection, gave me a major tune up and replaced all the spark plugs, but the problem still persists. I am gonna bring it back to them but they seem a bit lost to be honest. Other than this the car is driving normally when I am not idling.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 Hyundai accent gl and ever since the head gaskets been replaced its had an issue of almost stalling out when accelerating from a stop.
The cars overheating quite frequently as well like the thermostat isn't opening and the fans aren't kicking on.
This must be the week for Phaeton issues.
This evening as I was leaving from work, I started the car up and within a minute it died. I thought it must just be the cold, so I started it up again, and again it died. I had driven the car to work this morning, then taken it out at lunch time to run an errand, and everything was fine. I decided to drive the car to see if it just needs a charge, but again, as I was pulling out into the street the car died again. And again across the street in a big parking lot. Eventually I just pulled back into work, called the wife to pick me up and to bring along the vag-com cable and her laptop.
While waiting, I decided to start the car again, and again it died. So I wait, and once my ride arrived, I plugged the vag-com in and did a read. I got some initial intermittent faults, so I cleared them, started the car, waited for it to die, then did another scan to see what happened. Couple of things came up: Intervention load management kicked in (00907) and Supply Voltage Terminal 30 - Lower Limit Exceeded (00668 - 002).
I read another post where apparently it was the fuel filter that needed to be replaced. I did check the measuring blocks on Control 07, and it did say that Terminal 30 was at 0 amps, while Terminal 15 fluctuated but never went higher than 10 amps.
Is it a bad battery? A loose connection on the battery? Or should I do the fuel filter? Both batteries were replaced in late 2007, so it's not that old.
My nice little 2002 GL 1.6 has 160K+ on it. Lately, when I come to a stop, I get a thump when she downshifts. I don't know which gear exactly, but it happens when the car reaches 10 MPH and below, so maybe when it goes into first? It is just as the car stops, it seems.
More recently, it seems as if when I get just about stopped, it feels as if she completely disengages from drive and goes into neutral. But it doesn't actually do that, she is fine when I take off. She upshifts just fine, it's just that last little bit when coming to a stop.
I have never had the transmission messed with very much, but I know it was serviced a few years ago. I did add a little fluid a few weeks ago after I checked it, and I was very careful to purchase the exact correct fluid.
A few weeks ago my car was running perfectly fine, i filled it up with fuel and then it started running a bit rough. Would drive ok but could feel it surging and if i backed off on the accelerator it would try stall.Also the fumes in the car were a lot stronger than usual. Got home and it stalled, started it up and was idling rough and blowing black smoke :/ no engine light has come on though. I did the typical thing and googled possibilities, the mojority said that it was the purge control valve so i replaced that with a new elantra one (part numbers were the same) and its still running rough We are now thinking it could be the oxygen sensor? Have checked vacuum lines and stuff for air leaks and cant find any. Unplugged the oxygen sensor while car was running and it made no difference at all.. If the oxygen sensor was working properly it would of affected how the car was running, right?
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 Accent 1.3 has developed a problem recently: starts fine and revs freely and smoothly when parked. When I pull away it will get very rough like it's firing on only 2 cylinders or so, at certain points during the rev range rather than continuously. Very juddery.
After a minute or so, before the engine temp is even up to normal operating temp (according to the dial) it runs perfectly. When I start it up later the same day it's fine. It only happens the first time in a day that I use it. The more days I go without driving it the worse it is.
In the last couple of years I've changed spark plugs (always in good condition when I replace them), HT leads, coil pack, a lamda sensor (the first after the exhaust downpipe) and a fuel pump and filter.
Having had bit of a disaster today (shutting keys in boot that cost me 85 quid, that's why you don't buy from people who've lost the spare key), I noticed back box mounts and back box are rusting.
Is it possible to swap the standard rear silencer for the 2005 1.3/1.5 accent with the twin outlet one for the coupe 1.6?
It looks very similar and the pipe bends look the same..? What a hissing noise is when in gear and running? Stopped it doesn't make the noise, and as soon as clutch is depressed while rolling it stops.. Had a new clutch fairly recently.
I have a 2000 LC that has a few symptoms - intermittent misfire/running rough at these times it has:
dark smoke
uses 3 times the fuel
loss of power (to normal)
will pick up revs slow without running rough and runs normal at high revs.
dies misses and then picks up revs slowly when accelerator is pushed fast to the floor from idle.
Hyundai mechanics checked computer and it coded change spark plug leads this did not fix the problem, and have no idea.
About 6 months ago the car was doing the intermittent thing when it died and liquid was heard splashing on the ground. I found the main petrol line connecting to the pump had come completely off. After replacing all problems ceased and the car ran perfect with full power etc.
I've checked the fuel lines none appear to be leaking etc.
Car dies after running about 6 miles mostly at idle 15 mins later will start back up and run for short time mostly dies at idle. I have checked converter normal temp , plugs are all white but not dark in color , fuel filter had some dirt so it was replaced, maf sensor was replaced in 2011
View 2 RepliesIt will randomly not want to keep running when I goto start it so I just rev for a min and then it's fine after that. It doesn't happen to often. 2003 Jetta 1.8t
View 2 RepliesI just bought a 2001 Accent, very well taken care of. It is the 1.6, automatic, 148,000 miles. Just before I bought it, the owners put new tires on, replaced the plugs/wires/belts/timing belt/all fluids/head gasket. I did a search on this topic and saw a lot of things, but nothing definitive.
I've noticed that when at a stop (in gear) the car shakes a good amount, and with the A/C on it's significantly worse. There is no check-engine light, and the car seems to run and shift very well. I'm not used to small cars with small engines, so I don't know if it's normal or not.
I did look at the motor mounts (front and passenger side) and from what I can tell just taking a peek, they don't look bad, but again it was just a peek. The mounts don't look like they've ever been changed, but then again the whole car looks brand new, the owners took really good care of it (the inside looks like it's never been ridden in).
I do also have noise coming from the speedometer, that goes away temporarily when the back of the cable/speedo is lubed and then comes back, but my first concern is the shaking.
I have a Hyundai Accent 2005 Hatchback automatic and I have a rising problem.
The car seems to shake violently when I am nearing or at a complete stop.
The shaking gets so bad that the mirrors start to shake.
The shaking stops immediately when I accelerate or at regular speed.
The car seemingly runs fine, accels OK and brakes are good. However, I can still hear some shaking when I am driving.
The engine light is not on, but obviously I feel like this is something I want to get checked out before the matter gets worse. What it can be?
It seems that my left brake light is always on. I tried replacing the bulb, but that didn't do anything. I also had someone look at a switch underneath my break pedal.
I did had in the paste a problem with my trunk light, and got that resolved. Does any of those wires have anything to do with that light? What else it could be? Trunk light on dashboard
So on my way home today from work I came to a stop sign and noticed my car (2001 Hyundai Accent, 1.6L Automatic) didn't downshift while coming to the stop. So I stopped and hit the gas, and the car didn't move, it only revved. So I put it in park and it banged into park, then I put it in drive and it banged into drive. Then while driving, it will only shift when you let off the gas and like 5 seconds later after you let off the gas it shifts really really hard into third I believe. And in addition, there is no reverse now! I put it in reverse and nothing, even when I hit the gas it goes nowhere.
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