Accent LC (2000-05) :: Stalling And Wouldn't Start Unless Pumped The Gas While Cranking The Engine
Jan 13, 2016
Last week I started having problems with my 05 Accent, hatchback, 1.6L engine, automatic transmission. Filled the tank up with gas and the car stalled pulling out of the station and wouldn't start unless I pumped the gas while cranking the engine. Ran and started fine after that and I thought it may have just been an air bubble in the fuel line, since there wasn't a check engine light or any other symptoms after that. Fast forward to this morning and the check engine light comes on during my commute and when I checked it, it gave an EVAP code (P0441). I also stopped to refill the gas and it stalled again as I was leaving the station. Also after I measured the gas mileage I found that I'd lost around 7 mpg (from around 30 to around 23).
I've never heard of EVAP problems causing stalling and loss of gas mileage but I'm not all that familiar with these systems so I don't really know. I'm going to test if it's the gas cap going bad since on the list of things that could cause a P0441 that seems to be the easiest place to start, but other than that where to start looking?
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o my wife was driving our 2005 Accent GLS with about 95k miles yesterday, and it had an issue that it's had three or four times before: the engine would turn over but wouldn't start while it was still warm. In the past when it happened, whoever was driving would wait a few minutes and try again. It always started on the third or fourth try after waiting five to twenty minutes.
Yesterday, however, she was frustrated and so called AAA to have them send a battery truck over and have them take a look at it. The truck came relatively quickly, and they started their diagnostic procedures. The battery was fine (knew that), and he tried all the standard things like cleaning the terminals/harnesses and whacking the starter with a hammer. My wife said that as she and the tech tried to start the car, the turn-over seemed to get shorter and shorter- so when she first tried it would turn for a few seconds, and after a dozen or so attempts it was only turning for a second or less.
Finally, the tech (who apparently seemed to be frustrated at this point) got behind the wheel while my wife was looking under the opened hood and turned the ignition on and held it. The positive battery terminal apparently started smoking and my wife had to yell at him to get him to stop.
After this point, the engine no longer turned over at all. He tried a few more things like cleaning the cables, but no change. He finally said that he would call for a tow truck, and we ended up getting it towed back to our house.
The problem is unchanged since yesterday: there is full power when in ACC mode, but when you turn the ignition all the way to the on position there is nothing but a single loud "click" and a high-pitched whining noise.
I left my ODB bluetooth interface at my office, so I haven't been able to see if there are any codes.
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I go out to start the car, it cranks and cranks and cranks. I stop turning the key. I then try again and it hesitates to starts. I give it a little gas and it starts. When it does this, the car begins running very rough and idling rough. When I give it a little gas while it's parked, the check engine light begins flashing at me.
I turned the car off and came back to it the next morning (maybe 10 hours apart). It started right up no problem, no CEL either.
Plugs/Wires were done a few months back.
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I have just recently acquired an 01 Accent with the 1.6L and have had a few problems with it. It has about 112,000 miles on it and at about 109,000 it had the following services performed by the previous owner (reputable shop did the work)
-New battery
-New timing belt kit
-New water pump
-New valve cover gasket
-New plugs
-New belts
-New front pads
-New front rotors
-New rear wheel cylinders
-New front CV axles
-New tires all around
-Alignment
Now since I got it with about 111,000 miles on it, it ran and drove great until I had to put a new alternator on it as well as having to take the center console and automatic shift lever out to repair the wires for the O/D button. Car wouldn't shift into high gear. The problem I am having now is the car will crank but it will not start. Not even a sputter. I drove the car to and from work the day previous and then went out and started it to go to work in the morning and it started fine and ran fine for a minute or two then it just died like I turned the key off. No spitting or sputtering like it was running out of gas just died completely. Checked a few fuses and such and really not sure where to go from here because I don't have a code reader and don't wanna just throw parts at it, I would rather troubleshoot the problem.
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Our 2005 Hyundai Accent GLS refused to start yesterday. It seemed like the engine was struggling to turn over. It took about 10 minutes and then the engine FINALLY started. CEL came on. We drove about 1 mile and back, and the engine seemed fine. We even turned the car off, and turned it back on with no issues.
We took it into the shop but it's been about a day and they can't replicate the issue.
FYI, the CEL code is "P2096" (Post Catalytic Fuel Trim Bank 1 System Too Lean). This has prompted the garage to look at the fuel pressure system.
Historical Issues:
1. Last year, we found out that the car had minor issues trying to start up. Specifically, it takes an extra second or two for the fuel to be injected into the engine upon start-up.
We would mitigate this by: sticking the key in > turning the key halfway > wait about 2 seconds > then turn the key all the way.
I wonder if this starter ignition or fuel injector is wearing out.
2. About 2 months ago, the car started to struggle when it came to changing gears -- especially on the highway when trying to reach the 4th gear. The car would also randomly jerk regardless if we were decelerating, accelerating or maintaining speed.
Around that same time, the car struggled to go uphill (especially on a very steep highway hill that's near our house). The CEL would flash and we were constantly nervous that the car would simply die and roll backwards.
It seemed like a transmission issue but the garage we took it to replaced the coils, wires, plugs, and vacuumed out excess carbon dioxide buildup. Since doing so, the car was running perfectly.
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I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent hatchback with 98k miles. About a month ago we were headed out of town and got gas about a mile away from the house. After filling up, the car wouldn't start. It would crank but not fire. Tried for about 15mins to no avail. Had it towed to local mechanic and it started right away. They kept it for the weekend and said they had no problems starting it, so without experiencing the problem they said they would just be throwing parts at it.
About 2 weeks after my wife drove to store and when she went to leave and same experience, but this time it started after trying for a couple of mins. Then just this Tuesday it wouldn't start in the morning. When it just cranks but not fire it shows a pending P0335 (crankshaft position sensor). So I ordered the part (won't arrive til Friday). When I got home I tried to start it as well to no avail; tried again Wednesday morning and evening, nothing. Then this morning (Thursday) it starts right up. Once its started it runs great. After recurrence of no start 2 weeks ago, I replaced spark plugs and spark plug wires.
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So my 1.6 accent (140,000) decided to no longer start. Just keeps cranking but doesn't ignite. Plugged a scanner in and it's the crankshaft position sensor. How difficult is this to get to? From what I've ready its just held on one end by a 10mm bolt and the older end is just a connector, but it looks like it might be in a pain in the ass location. Does anything need to be taken off first to access? Should this take less than 30 min?
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I have a 2000 Accent with 90k miles. The last week or two, it takes about 5- 6 seconds of cranking to start when the engine is cold. Having had the car since new, I know that it's not normal.
The engine seems to crank strongly, and once started idles and drives well. This occurs once about every 4 starts when engine cold. Warm engine starts normal.
Changed plugs - no difference. Maintenance current per owners manual schedule.
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I own a manual accent from the 2000 that I have since last December. Fuel pump and battery are new, I changed them after getting the car.
The issues I have and I think they are due to the same reason, are the following.
1. Sometimes, when I turn the key to on position and before cranking, the engine light blinks and the car wouldn't start. Then I remove the key and try again until the light doesn't blink and then the car would start. This could be the second time, the third time or after several times. When the light blinks and I try to start the car, I can hear the fuel pump and the battery working, so the problem must be somewhere else. Also, this issue happens very randomly, it may doesn't happen during two weeks and then it happens one day and next day is OK again.
2. Few times it happened that even if the engine light wasn't blinking, the car started but like without enough power and then it stalled, I tried again, and it has always started OK the second time.
3. A couple of times, I was on the road and stopped the car in a red light and it stalled when I switched to neutral.
4. The car sometimes struggles with the first gear, when I'm switching from neutral to first gear to start the car (after being stopped in a red light for example). The car would start very slowly, even if I'm pushing the accelerator and don't have my foot on the clutch anymore. But after few seconds, the car runs well and I switch to second gear, third gear, etc. and runs perfect. Above 10-20 km/h the car runs perfect, I only have issues (sometimes, not always) at very low speed in first gear.
I think that's it. So far, my mechanic has checked the code problem and he coded a new key, thinking that it was a communication problem between the key and the engine, but it didn't solve the problem. I don't know where to bring the car, because every time someone checks it, they can't find the problem or a solution and I don't want to spend more money for no reason. But I'm also worried that the car breaks down one day in the middle of the road or when I'm in the field with volunteers (I need the car to do field work, but luckily it's not a remote area.
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I have about 26,000 Miles on it, this afternoon I tried to start it. The starter engaged and turned over and over and over, but the engine wouldn't start. Then I took the key out, waited 5 seconds, and tried again, it started. It was about 60 degrees out, so it wasn't cold. Half a tank of gas.
This may seem a little petty, but its a 2012 with only 26,000 Miles on it.
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This just started over the weekend. It's stalling. It does it mostly when I let off the gas and start slowing down. If I give it gas, it seems to straighten out for a minute. It has done this a couple of times while driving also. It sounds as if the engine speeds up and then slows down and stalls. The check engine light is on also. It went out yesterday and then popped back on today.
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I'm having a problem with my mom's 2005 Accent. It starts up just fine when cold, and will run for 15-20 minutes just fine, sometimes longer. Then, usually as you're slowing down, the engine just turns off. No bogging, no sputter, just turns off as if someone turned the key. Sometimes it will start back right back up, more often, it will need to sit for 30 seconds to a minute, and then it will fire back up. After that, all bets are off. Sometimes it will run again for 10-15 minutes, sometimes it will idle rough and die. I'm leaning towards a coil pack, but I'm sick of throwing parts at this. The last time I got it to idle roughly, it threw a random misfire, and cylinder 1, 2, and 4 misfire codes. I've changed out (in rough order) MAP sensor, the fuel pump (no fuel filter in this model), TPS (threw code for this), spark plugs, and most recently the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I'm not sure how to test the coil packs.
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My 2k Passat has 130k on it. I have done regular oil changes and had the timing belt done 6 months ago. It is in Las vegas right now, as it wouldnt start, and I was informed that it needs a new engine. It ended up starting when the guys at the shop squirted tranny fluid down a plug hole...but has been smoking. I was told this means I have a blown head and the engine would have to be torn apart to check out the bottom half.
I am almost inclined to continue paying to store the car until I pay off the 5k that I still owe on it, just to turn around and junk it...but I feel like maybe that would be rash.
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I have a 2003 Subaru Forester, bought it this past January. Got 163,000 miles on it, and we've driven it mostly around town. Over the last month, it has developed an intermittent problem with stalling and rough "putt-putt" running, and will only keep running if the gas pedal gets pumped. This seems to happen about every other time we turn it on, but without a pattern. It can be running fine, and then switch mode, as it were, to running rough and tending to stall. I've gotten ignition codes (check engine light came on and I had my guy check it out on the computer) twice. My mechanic (a long-term Subaru mechanic) has checked out the injectors, and replaced the head gasket, but the problem has not changed. I'm thinking that this may be an electronics issue or possibly something in the gas tank/line.
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That said my wife bought a 2001 Accent 1.6L Auto while I was overseas and it's been a great car, about 8 days ago it just crapped out. The reverse went out on her so we took it to get the codes read and on the way it went in limp mode, started hard shifting between gears and wouldn't go over 45 she says. Took it in to the stealership today and they said that the trans is shot as well as showing codes for P1527, P0732, and P0734. I know what the two slippage codes are and I can prolly just replace the speed sensors and that will be fixed but I'm not sure about the reverse and P1527.
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2005 Accent has been essentially bug free until now.
Drove 3 hours, parked for 4 hours, then when to turn it on... cranked, no turn over. Tried again and the crank died. I figured, ok, no problem, battery getting long in the tooth, time for a new one.
A friend and I were able to push start it (5 speed manual), and yesterday I bought a new battery for it. No worries right?
Wrong. Same thing now. Cranking but no gas/spark/turn over. No check engine light or codes.
My next place I'm guessing I need to check is the fuel pump relay? Should I hear a click a few seconds after I turn the key to on? I believe I should, not sure if my memory is playing tricks on me, but right now there is none.
Relay in the fuse box? Do I need to check anything else first? Have multimeter.
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2003 Hyundai accent GL 5spd has new rings/bearings/lifters and all gaskets (when i got the vehicle it over heated to the point it shut off ) figured it was just a head gasket so replaced it found out rings were shot.. so that's the jist of it. okay so she's timed right spot on but when I go crank up the car it cranks over fast and i have to feather the throttle to get it to startup the IAC makes a weird buzzing sound and wouldn't idle right so i unplugged it and it'll idle fine. When it would finally crank up and idle she drives really well put about 20 miles on her so far just the starting issue pissing me off. I'll post a vid of it trying to start for better description...
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I'm working on a family members car. We pulled out the old motor and put in a new one because the old one has rod knock. We're not getting ANY spark. Crank position sensor shows no resistance when cranking. The harness at the crank position sensor shows no voltage. The both coils measure 1.5ohms.
The only two bits of the harness that are in questionable locations are the grounds next to the ignition coil and the passenger side strut tower ground. I have the strut tower one to the closest bolt on the intake manifold and the coil pack grounds to the coil pack bracket.
The car has plenty of fuel and good cranking speed, just no spark. I verified using a timing light (no flash) and spark-plug short-to-ground. The old engine WAS running and all of the sensors on this one were swapped over from the running one. Also, the tach doesn't move when cranking.
Is there something that's commonly overlooked, or something that could be causing the issue searching showed it could be the crank position sensor, but like I said, I pulled the working one off the running engine.
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I drove my Aurora 300 miles one morning and when I arrived home it was running fine. I shut it off and went in the house and after 10 mins, went to leave again. It just cranked and cranked and wouldn't fire. I assumed it was the fuel pump and upon pricing one out, decided to wait and just plated another car. The Aurora sat all winter and now with the weather a little nicer, decided to try and fire it up last week. It cranked for a few seconds and there was a small explosion under the silver cover plate on the motor. It sounded like a backfire. It did it 2 more times and I stopped trying. It seemed to be coming from the intake and the foam on the under side of that silver plate is singed on the side by the power steering resovoir. Is there something there that could be pooched? Could it still be a fuel pump being that there is something exploding there? Could it be a fuel rail issue? I have read that there have been recalls. And where is this fuel pressure regulator?
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Timing belt broke, replaced belt and head camshaft position sensor. After engine is ran awhile 5-10 miles it will not start until it cools down for at least 45 minutes. Even with jumper cables attached.
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My hyundai accent 2004 is not starting after the cluch plate and disc were replaced. what could be responsible?
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