Accent LC (2000-05) :: Stalling And Idle Roughly Once Warmed Up - Random Misfire
Nov 17, 2014
I'm having continued issues with my mom's POS 2005 Hyundai Accent. It usually runs great cold, but once it's warmed up, it will stall out while driving. This almost always happens when accelerating from a stop. After it stalls, you have to let it set for 30 seconds to a minutes before it will start again. It will also sometimes idle roughly.
I've changed out the TPS and the MAP sensor, the battery, the CPS, the fuel pump, and the spark plugs. I did find that the radiator bypass hose was leaking on to the wiring for the O2 sensor. I fixed that, and the wires appear to be fine. I've sprayed throttle cleaner around the intake and can't find a leak. I scanned the ODB codes and I'm getting a Random misfire, misfire on cylinders 1, 2, 3, and 4, the Throttle Position Sensor and the MAP sensor, both of which have been replaced.
Tonight during my troubleshooting I was trying the wiggle test on the various connectors and got zapped when I was wiggling the coil pack connectors. Is that normal? I'm starting to suspect a wiring or electrical issue, but I'm not sure how to troubleshoot that.
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Been having a fair bit of trouble with my accent, at first my car sometimes would hesitate on acceleration in 1st gear. Now it has a rough idle and the engine just completely cuts out at random. It does however start straight back up. It makes an odd noise whilst idling almost like a misfire from the exhaust. On start up it blows a lot of white smoke. And when you do get driving it is really jerky. It's been serviced every 5000ks. I've changed spark plugs, map sensor and throttle body sensor, put a fuel injector cleaner through and still no improvements. It's been booked into the mechanics for next Tuesday.
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2004 Hyundai Accent has is misfiring, after warming up, only in idle. This only happens after about 30 seconds in idle. Could it not be getting enough gas? This being said I was getting misfire on 3 as well but that would happen all the time and cause the entire car to shake. This problem is now fixed and only #4 is causing me problems.
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Symptoms:
- Check engine light: misfire on all cylinders, and "lean fuel trim at part throttle".
Started with changing leads and plugs without improvement. Then I found the tank ventilation seemed to be clogged, as there was a massive vacuum when opening the filler cap. Checked the canister and replaced a couple of corroded lines. Also used compressed air to blow through the canister and lines up to the Evap-purge valve. Seemed to be OK afterwards (no vacuum), but still misfires.
Changed the Mass Air flow sensor, and it seems the misfires got better, but instead I have some other issues:
- Hard to start when cold. Starts up fine for a second then sounds like it's getting to much fuel and dies. Possible to keep it running if pumping the pedal or holding it at higher revs.
- Rough idle when warm. (Same as before I changed the MAF and plugs/ leads.)
- Drives and runs ok when out on the road.
- Pulled the cable to the Idle Control Valve without any change in idle...?
- Got flashing engine light and "misfire cylinder 4" when giving full throttle on low revs and seond gear up a steep climb.
What could cause this?
- Temperature sensor?
- O2-sensor?
- Idle control valve?
- Coilpack?
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I have a 2001 Toyota celica GT auto. It has 120k miles. I seem to have an issue that really is not causing a problem except for annoyance. After coming to a stop the car seems to exhibit the signs of stalling (car idles rough, shakes a bit) however the car never stalls. Once I start driving all is well. Now I took it to the dealer and they replaced the Idle Air Control Valve which is under the throttle body. They said it was getting stuck and due to the higher mileage possible. It was replaced and the problem is still there. The funny thing is even though the car exhibits these stalling symptoms the idle does not drop below 500 rpm (both dealer and I have verified this).
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Well first the exact car I have. 99.5 Jetta 2.0 AEG. It all started with one loud backfire with a stall at a stop light while in neutral. After that it was random stalling and jerking while driving. So I checked my everything and all seemed well. I replaced spark plugs because they where fouled and nasty. Cables are good. They're near new and tested them with a multimeter. Next I checked my injectors and they are surprisingly very clean.
I had also ran seafoam prior to these problems a few weeks before it all started. Next step was new fuel filter. Old one was nasty and black stuff dripped out. That didn't work. So I checked for vacuum leaks with throttle body cleaner. Nothing. Visually threre is nothing wrong under the hood. So today I changed the fuel pump. Went for a test drive all seemed well. Can out of the bank. Then it won't start. So I wait like normally. And it normally gets me home. Nothing. Will sometimes start but if I'm not holding the gas it dies. I don't know what to do. My only other thing I can think of is the coil pack.
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Our 2001 Passat wagon 4cyl turbo automatic has a random idle stutter. When sitting at a stop light the RPM's quickly drop and then regain idle. It happens at random times and only when idling after the engine has warmed up. It doesn't seem to matter if its in drive or park. What sensor could be failing or a possible cause? Over the past year the problem has increased from almost never to a few times at every stop light. My OBDII reader shows no codes. Car has 105K miles and I cleaned the throttle body.
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I've recently purchased an 01 accent GS and I've replaced the timing belt, water pump, and spark plugs. Ive also got no cold air, and original struts with 119k on the vehicle. Those are the least of my worries now as my car loves quitting out at idle; and it does not get any better hot or cold. One of the plugs was completely black when it was taken out (not by me: mechanic work) so that's when they mentioned a cylinder misfire. they wanted an additional 100 to figure out what that could be attributed to on top of the 550 for the work mentioned above! I am now next to broke and want to see if I can trouble shoot some of the causes myself. I am thinking Plug wires, crankshaft/camshaft position sensors (if there are 2 dif ones?) MAF sensor, o2 sensor, injectors, and fuel filter. My understanding is that the coil pack controls 2 cylinders at a time and I just have 1 bad cylinder...I need to figure out where to start as I have no codes to work off of. also, I don't know how to assess resistance with an ohm meter.
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I bought the car 3 years ago 2003 2.4L Hyundai Santa fe , I have driven it around 200 miles ( to and from shops ), I am having an issue now where once the car is warmed up ( post 15 mins ) It will idle really low * almost stalling * and oil pressure light will flicker, If I hold the brake and get it to almost 800 - 1k RPM it goes off and driving is not an issue *no knock*. I just got it driving for the 1st time in the past year, and drove it for about 45 mins in stop an go traffic, Temp light was all the way to cold, once stopped in stop and go traffic it would go up half way, as soon as I could get above 50mph it would slowly work itself all the way to the bottom?
More Information
2003 2.4L Hyundai Santa fe
I should really count my losses and move on but I cant.
Bought the car with 89K on it I now have 90K
New Battery
New Radiator
New Motor mounts 3
New Trans mount 1
New Hoses
Oil Change ( 40 miles ago )
Trans Oil Change ( 40 miles ago )
Power Steering Fluid change ( 40 miles ago )
2nd cat delete ( didn't want to waste any more money )
After Market 1st Cat
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The problem started when my clutch fluid began leaking a couple of months ago. I first noticed that it would take an unusual amount of effort to shift into gear and, after checking, found the clutch fluid completely gone and I filled it up immediately. Three weeks later, the fluid was gone again, so I took it in to a reputable mechanic, who said I needed my slave cylinder replaced. A week after replacement, I start to notice that my car increasingly had trouble "catching" into gear (my engine was accelerating, but not moving very fast; soft clutch). I thought maybe something went wrong with the slave cylinder repair and took it back to the same place, but the news came back that I needed a new clutch.
At 143,000 miles on the original clutch, I wasn't surprised it was time for a new one. Immediately after picking up my car with the new clutch--and by immediate, I mean right after I pulled out of the mechanic's parking lot--I noticed my car was driving horribly. The engine was idling extremely rough and it felt gritty when pressing the gas pedal during acceleration. I took it back to my mechanic the next morning to explain the problem, but they treated me like I was an idiot, didn't detect anything wrong with my car, and clearly didn't know what I was talking about even though I personally showed them my steering was shaking pretty badly while idling.
A few more days of the rough idle/gritty acceleration and I went back, but they just suggested getting my fuel injection system cleaned. I personally checked to make sure that the wires in my car were connected properly, as well as making sure the hose connecting to the air filter was on there correctly. Today on a whim, I took my car to Autozone to have them check the computer, even though I don't have a check engine light on, and sure enough the only code read was P0302--Cylinder 2 misfire.
My question is, what is the most likely cause of the cylinder 2 misfire (given my car's very recent history) and most importantly, could the mechanic have caused the problem I am experiencing? How should I handle this situation with them from here? I will no longer be using their services after I get this problem sorted out, as I feel like my car did not receive the best service.
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Replaced fuel pump a couple weeks ago and my car was running just great. Last week, it died on me again and I discovered that I wasn't getting any spark. Removed crank position sensor and installed one from the junkyard. Fired right up and I was able to drive the car for 3 days with no problems. Then it quit again. I figured that it was the part that I got from the junkyard so I went to autozone and shelled out $80.00 for a new one. When I removed the old one, I noticed that there was motor oil on it and I am wondering if engine oil is supposed to keep it cool as there wasn't a lot of oil on it. I don't want my new sensor to quit working because it may be getting too hot and breaking down because of excessive heat.
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I am happy to own a Hyundai Santa Fe (2009) 2.7l which originally originated in the US. It is a really nice car, however, it recently over time developed the problem, which causes some pain - firstly it started with rough idle (pulsating), now it began to stall from time to time when decelerating.
[URL].....
I tried to plug a OBD reader and here's what I get (well, that's a "pending" fault, but still might be useful).
I tried to browse around the internet. I believe it is unlikely that 2 oxygen sensors fail at the same time. It could possibly be caused by vacuum leaks or faulty MAF. Is it a common fault among Santa Fe?
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I guess misfires are a rite of passage for these vehicles. I purchased it only a week ago. Welcome to Hyundai...
The car has 53k kms. It's throwing P0300 and P030X on all cylinders. There was one instance of P0128. The engine runs smoothly and doesn't seem to down on power, although I have nothing to compare it to. The only performance issue is that it acts as if there is a rev limiter at 6k rpm. It sputters and stops pulling above 6k. Strangely, it doesn't throw the codes under load. The light flashes while it's running steady-state.
I pulled the plugs and they appeared to be in excellent condition with no erosion of the electrodes. The ash is slightly more white than I would expect, making me wonder about it being excessively lean. I called the dealer. They told me that coils are problematic. Replacing the coils made no difference.
That lead me here. I found the thread "Check engine light flashes then stays solid," which referenced the ECM update.
Interestingly, of the codes mentioned on the TSB, the car is having all but the last two.
- P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected.
- P0301: Cylinder 1 - Misfire Detected.
- P0302: Cylinder 2 - Misfire Detected.
- P0303: Cylinder 3 - Misfire Detected.
- P0304: Cylinder 4 - Misfire Detected.
- P0128: Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature).
- P0328: Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input.
- P0461: Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance.
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I have a 2000 Mazda Protege ES (1.8L) with 120k+ miles and an automatic transmission. The car drives well at speed, but when sitting at stops it will shake a little, sometimes worse than others. Often the RPMs drop to below the lowest tick for a split second before recovering, very much like when driving a manual transmission and not pressing the clutch in enough. Even when the RPMs are steady at a stop, it shakes enough to rattle a couple of the plastic parts in the dashboard.
Recent history (some likely unrelated, but I'm no expert):New air hose (one from the air filter to the engine) in September. RPMs were falling at idle more often than they are now, there was a decent sized crack in the hose. RPMs stopped falling as often, but has idled roughly before and after.New radiator and thermostat in April (overheated on the interstate and cracked open).New spark plugs and wires last fall after one cylinder wasn't firing.For the last couple years every fall when it starts to get cold, the alternator belt squeaks and I tighten the bolt a little each morning until it stops (usually after 2 days, maybe 3 - the alternator itself is on a long bolt that adjusts the belt tension).Every 5k miles I have the oil changed with high mileage oil and tires rotated/balanced.
I took it to a garage a couple weekends ago after the check engine light had come on earlier in the week. I reset the computer and the light never came back on, so I lost the chance to have the code read, but there weren't any other symptoms beyond what I'm used to. The mechanics at the shop said they couldn't find anything specific causing the rough idle and suggested replacing some or all of the motor mounts, which are weak. They didn't seem confident that would fix the problem, and neither am I, as I don't see how weak motor mounts would explain the low RPMs as well as the shaking.
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1999 Passat 2.8L. New coil pack assembly, wires, plugs, valve cover gasket(oil in plug holes). Misfire at idle and low rpm. Driving at higher rpm's misfire seems to go away. Codes are random misfire and cyl 1 misfire. Need to know if I would get an injector code if a fault or If that motor has problem with faulty cams or springs or any other common problems. I am going to do a compression check this weekend I'll update that info.....
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Accent GLS. I just got it from a used car dealership (local) and it runs perfectly. It had a misfire code when i first got it, for all cylinders plus the p0300. It went away when i started the engine again, and didnt come back til a month later (Now). now it wont go away.
I went to advance auto and had them use their OBD2 reader for a trouble code and i got p0300, p0301, p0303, p0304. No other codes present.
I am not feeling anything bad, and from what I am told, a misfire feels like a hard shift. This is of course after getting the plugs and wires changes as well as an oil change. Standard preventative maintenance.
The mechanic used OEM parts got from local parts shop. i think the OEM plugs are the copper ones. I would have preferred iridium as they arent that much more expensive but I don't want to pay for another plug change.
The only symptoms I can think of, is that according to google, I should get around 380 miles to a full tank (11.9 capacity, 32 mpg city). I am only getting 280 from full tank to gas light.
I have also gone through a lot of oil. I checked the dipstick and it was below the low line, so i bought a quart of high mileage oil (same exact brand and type of oil that i gave to the mechanic to use) and it went to just above the full line. This was at around 1500 miles after oil change.
After visiting multiple sites about misfires, i found a few things that caught my attention. One is a site called auto service professional, which talks about the OCV for the MC accent. A lot of sites also recommend gaping the plugs at .035.
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Ok. Im going to keep this as short as possible. I bought my 05 passat 1.8t AWM TIP used in 09 with 44k
At around 90k I started getting a Random misfire only at idle. And it would be a different cylinder, not always the same would come back after clearing. The RPMs would be very low like around 840. And i think it should be around 920-960. That seems to be one of the main issues. Everything on the car is stock.
So basically, If my CEL starts flashing, and I clear it, I could drive a million miles with no misfires, but as soon as it starts to idle they come back ( I do have vag-com) and know how to use it for basic functions.
This is what has been done:
July 2011:
Engine rebuild (bad piston rings due to clogged cat converter)
Timing belt Kit (Timing was off 5 degrees!!!)
brand new turbo KO3, and Oil feed line
DV
N75 valve
Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pressure regulator
MAF sensor
ECU swapped out (old ECU would not go through all steps for Throttle body alignment)
So, after all this and 3 weeks later, I get the car back and it ran great the whole way home. Put it in park waited 5 seconds, and the random misfires came back. So it went back to the shop the next day.
September 2011
These things were done:
Crank Position sensor
Cam position sensor
Compression test ( to make sure he didn't make a mistake while rebuilding motor) Results were Perfect
Leakdown test
Map sensor
Another MAF
2 O2 sensors
Upgraded DV
Fuel injectors
Removed engine wiring harness and OHMed every single wire. Nothing wrong
OEM Coilpacks
3 sets of copper plugs
Throttle body was swapped with 2 others from known working cars.
Trans pan replaced fluid flushed and new trans filter
I have heard this is a fairly common thing on the B5.5 models...
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I have a 2008 Accent Hatchback with 130k+ miles. I got a pretty good deal on it from a fellow who maintained pretty good service and had installed an aftermarket air intake (well, he removed the stock one and put a small, roughly 4" diameter, filter that is open to engine compartment) and all looked pretty good.
At the first fueling, I noticed issue - I had to rev motor for about 30-45 seconds to get it to stay started. Figuring it was an evap issue, I replaced purge valve and gas cap (cap was obviously loose). This did not correct the problem. I did not worry about it to much because with that exception, the car drove wonderfully back and forth to work, etc.....until recently.
Car started "jumping" and being sluggish. Codes came back as random misfire. Plugs and wires are only a few months old. I wondered if it had something to do with fuel so I ordered filter and pump (figured i would replace both since I was going to be pulling top off tank anyways) - this is going to be my project for the day.
Here is the kicker though : I noticed in the past day or so that car has been okay on my short commute to work in the morning and back home in evening. When I went to store midday and was parked on HOT pavement, I had issues right away. Car is very temperamental as the temperature increases. My wife also noted that last night while driving about 15 minutes away that the engine wall was hot enough to be uncomfortable to the touch of her bare foot and issues were abundant.
Once I get to speed in 5th gear, I seem to be okay, no issues (yet). It is primarily during acceleration and mostly during low RPM (low for this car anyways which seems to run best at 2500+).
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'02 TB w/ code P0300 / Random misfire. Started the other day when it was very damp out, FWIW. Feels like ur driving on rumble strips during acceleration. Rough idle also. It does not do this continually though as after a while (minute) it clears up and runs smooth for a while then runs rough & light will again for a while. I seafoamed it today since it been about 60k since last seafoam. I thought that might have worked until I drove about 20 mile and it went rough again. I also cleaned the oil out of the cam sensor elect connector, since that caused rough running before, although it didn't throw that code. It seems to be very intermittent. '02 TB, 185k miles, orig plugs changed at 125k. Is it actually just going in & out of a limp-mode? O2 since it's random ???
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2004 Passat 1.8t 4motion ... I am getting random misfire at idle like one hard knock then every thing is ok. I also have no MIL light or retrievable codes. I checked for vacuum leaks don't see any. Change out some old vacuum check valves. Replaced oil breather hose had crack. I Changed timing sensor, timing belt and fuel filter fuel pump died changed out. The old fuel filter had something rattling around in it is that normal? Also when I get gas no matter where, 91 octane only the car idle stumbles about 5 minutes after fill up then smooths out after a mile or so. EVAP purge valve clicks some times? Haven't check EVAP canister for saturation. Fuel regulator? I haven't checked fuel pressure. Car was not starting after sitting for week end hard start took 3 to 4 tries then starts up ok for some reason that is not happening now?
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My 2,000 7.3 with 150K miles have been doing good until the last four weeks. It randomly stalled and once would not start when I got back to it after a 30 minutes lunch break. The stalling happened at unpredictable rpm. Sometimes it stalled at near 2000 while I was still in low gear, other time it stalled when I was cruising on street at 30 miles/hr. Twice it stalled while I was at stop light and at idle speed.
The CPS is new. I replaced the fuel filter and it quit stalling for about 100 miles, I was so happy thinking the problem was fixed but then it stalled again.
Each time it stalled it would take about one minute resting before I could successfully start it again. If I tried to start immediately it simply would not start.
Do you think perhaps it is the two filters in the fuel tank being the culprit? I doubt the filters were ever replaced. I looked around and found a Hutch mod where these two filters were removed. An in-line filter was installed on the frame between the tank and the fuel pump. I just cannot understand why Ford engineers place filters inside the tank, which requires either dropping the tank or removing the truck bed in order to change the darn filters.
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