Accent LC (2000-05) :: Stalling / Engine Just Turns Off When Slowing Down
Oct 26, 2014
I'm having a problem with my mom's 2005 Accent. It starts up just fine when cold, and will run for 15-20 minutes just fine, sometimes longer. Then, usually as you're slowing down, the engine just turns off. No bogging, no sputter, just turns off as if someone turned the key. Sometimes it will start back right back up, more often, it will need to sit for 30 seconds to a minute, and then it will fire back up. After that, all bets are off. Sometimes it will run again for 10-15 minutes, sometimes it will idle rough and die. I'm leaning towards a coil pack, but I'm sick of throwing parts at this. The last time I got it to idle roughly, it threw a random misfire, and cylinder 1, 2, and 4 misfire codes. I've changed out (in rough order) MAP sensor, the fuel pump (no fuel filter in this model), TPS (threw code for this), spark plugs, and most recently the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I'm not sure how to test the coil packs.
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
This just started over the weekend. It's stalling. It does it mostly when I let off the gas and start slowing down. If I give it gas, it seems to straighten out for a minute. It has done this a couple of times while driving also. It sounds as if the engine speeds up and then slows down and stalls. The check engine light is on also. It went out yesterday and then popped back on today.
View 2 Replies
My 2004 Accent GLS has stalled intermittently for me and my daughter several times. However, the mechanics cannot replicate the problem and it is not revealing any codes when analyzed. Additional details would include the fact that the stalling incidents have occurred while sitting in slow traffic or when slowing when approaching an intersection. After it stalls, 3 of the 4 times it started again within 10 minutes.
This last time, it took several hours before we were able to restart it. There is no fuel smell when restarting. The check engine light is not on. The problem actually began as a "failure to start" problem, which I thought could have been a faulty battery as, even though the engine was turning over and I didn't really suspect the battery, it would start when jumped. The problem then moved to a stalling problem.
So far, I've replaced a battery (probably a waste), the mechanic found some frayed wires coming from the ignition which he fixed and I'm now having them replace the crank sensor. Does replacing this sensor, though no code is apparent, on the right track? Should I be focused elsewhere? Is there a common 2004 Accent problem? It's my daughter's first car and only has 67,000 miles on it, so I'm in no hurry to get a new car!
View 1 Replies
Last week I started having problems with my 05 Accent, hatchback, 1.6L engine, automatic transmission. Filled the tank up with gas and the car stalled pulling out of the station and wouldn't start unless I pumped the gas while cranking the engine. Ran and started fine after that and I thought it may have just been an air bubble in the fuel line, since there wasn't a check engine light or any other symptoms after that. Fast forward to this morning and the check engine light comes on during my commute and when I checked it, it gave an EVAP code (P0441). I also stopped to refill the gas and it stalled again as I was leaving the station. Also after I measured the gas mileage I found that I'd lost around 7 mpg (from around 30 to around 23).
I've never heard of EVAP problems causing stalling and loss of gas mileage but I'm not all that familiar with these systems so I don't really know. I'm going to test if it's the gas cap going bad since on the list of things that could cause a P0441 that seems to be the easiest place to start, but other than that where to start looking?
View 8 Replies
I have a 2000 model accent manual trans its just recently clocked 200 000 km I know the car has had problems but they are getting worse. Occasionally I have Problems starting the car in the past but it usually takes no more than 5 turns to get started but this is getting worse the other day it took about 5 min maybe more to get the car started I am guessing my starter motor probably Needs to be changed.
Next problem yesterday after I put a full tank of Premium 98 in the car its starts to rev itself changing the sound and note of the motor running constantly it has done this in the past but not so severely and It only seem to do so after putting petrol Especially when I put fuel From a servo I don't usually go to the car would have stalled more than once but didn't only because I tried to keep the revs up when it sounded like it was gunna die also I am pretty sure my fan was making some weird noises but the car has had no engine Light show and no Overheating.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2001 Accent GL DOHC 1.5L (which I believe is the same as your LC model).
One night it started running poorly - missing, bad acceleration - like it was only running on 3 out of 4 cylinders. It was missing whilst idling and would backfire and struggle to accelerate. I took it to a mechanic and they said I needed a new coil pack. So I bought a coil pack from a 2nd hand wreckers that looked pretty good, the car idled better but accelerated worse, like it was only running on 2 cylinders .
So I swapped it back to the old coil pack - and now it wont even start. The engine turns over once then clicks loudly a few times - I think the clicking is from the distributor.
View 3 Replies
My 2005 Accent began making an odd clicking sound about two years ago when I would decrease my speed, not using the brakes. It wasn't loud, just annoying. It went on for some time until my car went into the shop to have the alternator replaced. I explained the noise to the mechanic and they checked it out. They explained they added some type of cleaning fluid somewhere under the hood, and the sound was gone. I was thrilled.
Last year, the sound returned again. Annoyed, I began saving to bring it in to the shop again. In Feb 2013, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced because my mileage of course called for it. The mechanic said he could not hear the clicking sound I was reporting (I really didn't see how.)
Two months later in April, my car decided to die on me and after 5 months I just recently got it up and running again. My differential and transmission were both completely rebuilt. Also, my CV axles have both been replaced. Now that I have my car back, the clicking sound is louder than before and also now happens when I accelerate as well. The faster I go, the faster the clicking gets until it eventually stops. When I slow down, the clicking starts again until I hit my brakes.
I want to take my car and get this noise silenced once and for all since they didn't hear it when my transmission was done last month. What fluid may have been added to what part 2 years ago when this was handled initially?
View 5 Replies
I have a Hyundai Accent 2002 which has 126k miles on it. Overall the car runs well without any trouble. Recently I am noticing that if I suddenly slow down (like taking an exit from interstate or sudden traffic so that speed reduces to 30 mph from 60 mph or so), the front of the car starts shaking. On a very few occasion I have noticed that the check engine light comes up for a few seconds and disappears. At the same time car looses it's acceleration power. However, as soon as I slow down further (close to stop) everything starts working fine without any issue. What could be going wrong? The car is due for a timing belt replacement around 130k miles .
View 3 Replies
Ignition turns over, but no sound. There is power to lights, radio, etc. Tried a boost, thinking it was battery, but the boost was unsuccessful. Tried using the spare key but that was also unsuccessful.
The tow driver said it sounded like a fuse or clutch safety sensor. I also heard that it could be the battery leads. We're fairly new at fixing the car ourselves, learning as we go, so not knowing some otherwise basic things, like how to clean and tighten battery leads, what fuse to change, or what the heck a clutch safety sensor is.
View 5 Replies
My standard 2002 accent is undriveable and at the mechanic right now (100,000km). For the past few weeks the car has driven very jerky. While in first and second gears if i accelerate too quickly it just jerks/slips and has very little power.
Yesterday the check engine light came on and i got codes P0300, P0302, P0303...misfire in cylinders 2 and 3. Checked this forum and decided to buy new spark plugs (last replaced plugs and wires 1.5 years ago). Got into the car and could go more than a block because it was jerking and then kept stalling. Replaced the sparkplugs and nothing changed. Had it towed to the mechanic...after a few hours he said he had cleaned the exhaust manifold and it was driving fine. I picked it up and a block away it stalled again.
The mechanic now says 3 of my fuel injectors need to be replaced and the fourth will probably go soon and it will be about $700 to fix. Does this sound right for these codes?
I called hyundai parts and they told me each injector is $236...he also told me he doubted they had to be replaced cause he has never seen an accent have fuel injectors replaced and also they rarely sell these injectors, he said it was probably something electrical.
I have found 4 injectors on ebay for $200 but is this really the problem? The mechanic says it is 100% the problem. But from reading the forum I dont think so.
Also wanted to add that i often noticed the smell of burning plastic. Smoke seems to be coming from spark plug area when i notice the smell but nothing looks burnt/melted.
View 14 Replies
I'm having continued issues with my mom's POS 2005 Hyundai Accent. It usually runs great cold, but once it's warmed up, it will stall out while driving. This almost always happens when accelerating from a stop. After it stalls, you have to let it set for 30 seconds to a minutes before it will start again. It will also sometimes idle roughly.
I've changed out the TPS and the MAP sensor, the battery, the CPS, the fuel pump, and the spark plugs. I did find that the radiator bypass hose was leaking on to the wiring for the O2 sensor. I fixed that, and the wires appear to be fine. I've sprayed throttle cleaner around the intake and can't find a leak. I scanned the ODB codes and I'm getting a Random misfire, misfire on cylinders 1, 2, 3, and 4, the Throttle Position Sensor and the MAP sensor, both of which have been replaced.
Tonight during my troubleshooting I was trying the wiggle test on the various connectors and got zapped when I was wiggling the coil pack connectors. Is that normal? I'm starting to suspect a wiring or electrical issue, but I'm not sure how to troubleshoot that.
View 28 Replies
I'm getting a pulsing. High-pitch squeak from what sounds like the left/front wheel when making left turns and occasionally driving straight at low speeds after a left turn, usually while NOT applying the brakes. In fact, applying the brakes firmly stops the sound until I release the pedal. After that, sometimes it comes back immediately and sometimes not.
Two weeks ago I replaced the R/F cv axle and the sway bar link. Harder job than it should have been because I had a heck of a time getting the lower ball joint bolt free.
This past weekend, I replaced both front rotors because I was certain that one was warped since I was getting a very loud pulsing squeal only when braking. I also have had a tendency to over torque the lug nuts which I had read can cause warped rotors. I now use a torque wrench for that.
I've made sure that the rotor shield isn't touching anything and checked the pads for damage and unusual wear. Pads are at about 75%.
View 1 Replies
So my wife drove her car all day yesterday, everything fine. This morning went to start and it wouldn't. It turns over fine just not firing.
Now during the summer I had replace the fuel pump/filter before discovering that was not the issue.
I know you are already thinking CPS!.. I replaced that over the summer.
I have not checked the spark yet, kinda hard to do that one by yourself.
Beyond spark I am not sure what else could be wrong, especially because it was running fine last night. Is it common for accents to have issues in 20 degree weather?
View 3 Replies
I have a 2003 hyundai accent gt 1.6v runs great other than when I get gas. As soon as I fill my tank the car doesn't want to start. It cranks turns over idles very low and then dies. I have to try to start it about 3 times before it will stay running. Starts perfectly fine in hot or cold weather only has problems right after filling gas tank. Started about a week ago. What could be the problem?
View 2 Replies
We purchased our 2011 Jetta SE Automatic brand new - first people to drive it - and have had virtually no problems up until this summer. The car has stalled on us dozens of times now and been to two different dealerships for service a handful of times and no one knows what the problem is. We found that the car typically stalls when we're slowing down; however, it recently stalled when we were in Park. When it stalls, the steering wheel locks up, the breaks are nearly impossible to push and everything seems to shut down except the radio. We're virtually a sitting duck for other cars.
When this happens, we're able to put the car back in park, turn it off and back on and drive fine for a while. It seems to be happening more frequently but the dealership hasn't been able to replicate the issue - there are no codes left on the computer and they've literally taken the car apart and can't find anything wrong. They've even 'driven' it for 200 miles and still, nothing. Initially we were told it was bad gas, then we were told it was an operating system update. Now they're trying to tell us that it's our driving style but multiple people in my family have driven the car with the same effect - stalling spontaneously while slowing down, stopping or trying to break.
We've also noticed skipping or slipping between gears when we're at higher speeds but I'm not sure if that's related. It almost feels like your foot falls off the accelerator or slips while you're driving but instead you're actually applying constant pressure.
View 5 Replies
I drive a 2004 Volvo v70 (non turbo). It died on me about 3 times in 5 years on tight turns ((switchback). It hadn't happened for a couple of years but now it has stopped 3 times in the last couple of months. It is very dangerous as the steering stops working and I have to totally stop, put my car in park and restart.
View 2 Replies
Car has been stalling when stopped sitting in driveway or when slowing down for a red light or stop sign. Sometimes starts right away others takes 20 minutes. No codes no service engine light. Being told camshaft sensor crankshaft sensor egr valve. Got all data at library did egr test all indicate it is good. Did not have enough time to print out info on the sensors
View 2 Replies
I have a 1998 Cadillac Seville STS which has recently developed an intermittent stalling issue. Here are the details:
Happens occasionally when I'm slowing down or coasting, such as turning into a parking lot or going around a sharp entrance ramp-Has not yet happened during acceleration-No bucking or jerking while accelerating-No apparent warning that it is going to stall-Has happened once each of my last two trips
The first few times it happened my fuel level was pretty low, and one of the times I tried several times to restart it and it would start but die right away. I managed to get it started again, then I filled the tank and tested the fuel pressure at the rail, and I got 45-50 psi with the key turned but without the engine running.
After that time, I have not had any difficulty restarting it when it stalls. I held the valve in basically the same position that it is installed (meaning I didn't turn it upside down) and sprayed in the opening with throttle body cleaner (not carb cleaner). I then used a "pipe cleaner" to clean the inside, and I also worked the plunger up and down after I sprayed it.
I had a few "false alarms" in the past thinking it was fixed, so I wanted to wait until I was sure before posting. I now have to lose the habit of constantly glancing at the tach to see if it's about to stall. It would be interesting to know why cleaning the EGR valve fixed it.
View 19 Replies
I have a 4 cylinder '98 Toyota Camry with 82k miles on it. I got the car second hand from a family friend 7 months ago. About 3 months ago, my engine would sputter and then shut off when I'd start slowing down below 30mph and stopping at lights after I'd been on the interstate. Issue occurs only when I've accelerated quickly during that drive (ie accelerating hard to go up a hill to merge or to pass a slow car).
When I need to stop, if I'm fast enough to get the gear in neutral, hold down the break and rev the engine at the same time, then it most likely won't shut off. It's like trying to do CPR on my car... The spark pugs have been replaced, oil changed, and fluid levels checked but the problem still happens. What could be the problem??
View 2 Replies
I have a 2005 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L V6 which I bought 6 weeks ago. It has 103,000 miles on the clock. I mainly use it for going to school and getting around town etc but on Sunday I had to take my parents back. It's a round trip of 230 miles. Weather was sunny. Traffic on the Expressway so a lot of slowing down, stopping, setting off cycles but no issues. On the way home, about two toll plazas from my exit on the I90, I noticed that the engine sounded and felt like I was driving in a higher gear than that required for the speed I was doing (5 mph). It's an automatic (which I'm not used to as I've always driven manual) so I don't make any gear changes but if I'd been in a manual, it felt like I was in 2nd when I should have been in 1st. Does that make sense?
Anyhow, so I managed not to stall at the toll plazas but when I exited, the engine stalled 3 times (twice at intersections and finally when I pulled up outside my house). There is no problem starting the car after this has happened. I called my local autoshop who said to bring it in Tuesday so I didn't drive it Monday. Tuesday morning, it felt exactly the same when I was slowing down for traffic, intersections, turnings etc. The autoshop had it 3 days and couldn't find anything wrong with it. There is no data stored on the computer to show any of this happened and it has driven fine for them when they've taken it out. Beyond frustrated! I know what I heard and felt. Someone mentioned the overdrive staying on but I don't know what that means.
View 3 Replies
2002 Honda Accord, 4 cyl., will stall unexpectedly when coming to a stop or slowing down. It will start to shake and hesitate as one is slowing down from 35+ mph, then will stall at the stop. Has some trouble restarting, but when it does, everything seems to be fine. No codes are left, and my mechanic suspects dirt or something similar is contacting the fuel injector(s) on a sporadic basis. I did replace the spark plugs as they were due at the time this first showed up, but it has happened twice since in a 3 month period.
View 3 Replies
