I have been getting noise that sounds like marbles in the front wheel area. It doesn't happen right away, but after about 20-30 minutes of continuous driving you can hear it. It is louder the faster the car goes, and when you stop it the sound slows down and stops. There is no difference in the way she drives / handles with or without the noise, but I know she hasn't made that noise in the past.
View 8 RepliesI just purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent. I was told it has a bad wheel bearing on the front driver's side. I am assuming that would be the clicking sound that associates with speed. I was told the cv joints or axles were replaced but have a leak. I couldn't see a filler hole or one to check from. I also don't see fluid under the car from parked. Also, there is a humming which sounds like knobby mud tires. The humming disappears during hard right turns.
View 6 Replies2000 GMC Sierra 2500 6.0L gas engine 150K miles. After returning home from a 150 mile drive, I notice a very heavy sound of marbles banging around near the front of the engine at idle. The noise is a much like heavy detonation where timing is badly off kilter. Used my stethoscope to determine this is loudest at the water pump housing. The belt runs smoothly with no sign of unusual resistance. The engine does not overheat, and there is no sign of a coolant leak.Can a bad water pump shaft bearing make such a tremendous "cackling" noise? What else could it be?
View 8 RepliesA few weeks ago my 2003, 2.7 cdx (150,000miles) i noticed what sounded like 2 marbles knocking together, so where the timing belt pulleys are i sprayed some wd40 and the noise went, BUT, since that the noise has got worse and now sounds like a whole bag of marbles jiggling around. really really loud.
View 4 RepliesI own a 2005 Hyundai Accent 1.3 SOHC and a while ago the front right wheel started to make a grinding noise, problem was related to the brake system..
So far I've tried replacing the rotor (disc), repaired the caliper (using a rebuild kit), replaced hoses (both), and event the master cylinder.... and the problem persists, it actually came to the point that after driving a while the front wheels will get stuck.
I've followed all the directions from the service manual and it still got the problem...
I have a 2003 my04 accent, 1.6l, manual. I have 2 different noises coming from the engine bay. Iv'e got a video of one of them, you'll have to listen through headphones though to hear it properly, I'll post below. The noise will be echoed off the car shelter so bear with me. It sounds like a whine. You can hear it when I start revving it just after half way, and it is constant even when I am driving, becomes more noticeable as the RPM's climb.
The second noise I'm pretty sure is coming from the gearbox or surrounding areas. And it sounds like something grinding. It only happens if the car is straining I.e going up a hill in to high a gear. Or after I change gears and it sounds just before 2000RPM and fades out after 2200RPM . What could this be?
Here goes, I just took ownership in the last month of a Hyundai Accent GS(2000). Car's been going great, but I have now found an annoying issue with a vibration coming through the dash. When I'm accelerating in all gears (and esp up hill when the car is under pressure), a Vibration starts in the dash and stays until I am roughly over 3000 revs. I'm in Ireland, so the car is Right Hand Drive. The Vibration sounds like it is coming from behind the speedo clocks near to windscreen.
So far, I have removed the Center Console and Stereo and the Vibration stays there. I've reached in behind the console and cant find any vibration there. I have also driven with the speedo clocks removed and putting my hand into the space trying to find the vibration.....but no joy.
The vibration itself sounds like a plastic trim in the dash (or behind the dash), but it has my stomped! Can it be something in the engine causing it? Engine ticks over fine, not lumpy in anyway.
2002 accent gl. 96000 miles...strange clicking or ratcheting sounds that I thought were drivers side 1/2 shafts going bad...replaced it, still has the sound...replaced left shock-strut was bad as well. sounds like differential noise, almost like a baseball card hitting bicycle spokes! previous owner told me this sound has been there for over 1 year and he put both 1/2 shafts in as well, sound is still there. Trans was a little low on fluid(automatic/overdrive). tried driving car with o/d off, manually shifting and driving through all the gears, sound is still there.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1998 E39 535i that has a knocking sound coming from the front right wheel area. The noise can be heard mainly at low speeds and when touching the brake (not only when touching the brake though). It sounds like a load of golf balls rattling around in the bottom of a golf bag.
The car has been to BMW who changed discs and pads to no effect and in the last week I have taken it to an independent mechanic who cannot find anything wrong with the brakes or wheel bearings.
I have been assured that the sound is not dangerous but it is driving me up the wall! I should also mention that it only seems to occur when the vehicle is warm.
I own hyundai 2000, 1.5L. About 5 days ago the engine started making strange noise that sounds like sewing machine.
I went to my garage and they said that its the hydraulic valve lifters and that I should replace all of them(12 total).
My question is, what can happened if I wont replace them? can I postpone the replacing for a few months or it can cause damage?
By the way, I heard that the noise from hydraulic valve lifters can start due to bad oil, I had 20W50 so I changed today the oil to 15W40(manufacturer recommendation) and the oil filter and still got the noises.
So.. Today coming back from work, I felt clucking sound from front wheel when going from 5-15mph. I even felt that when I had my left foot on the foot rest area. Its appeared during the driving from work to home and check whether if there is any rock or tree branch on tire or wheel but no...
So after 30mins later, went to gym and the the sound was completely gone.. Would it be because of bad wheel bearing or suspension or ball joint issue?
2012 ISF
EGR marbles -- the chunks of carbon that come loose from the EGR cooler / intake manifold and stick the EGR valve open?
I've been getting these on 3 recent occasions, maybe 100 miles or so apart. The truck loses pretty much all power below 2000 rpm, smokes and stinks bad until I pull the EGR valve and dump these out. I'm trying to decide if I need to dig in and do a new EGR cooler and oil cooler. I've read the FordDoctorsDTS article suggesting these are caused by and coming from a leaking EGR cooler (possibly only when very hot) over time.
I'm not currently losing any coolant that I can tell, but was losing some a few months ago (during warmer weather), but also had a leaky heater valve that I replaced at the time. Not sure if the leaky valve would account for the total coolant loss (I lost over a gallon in a few weeks).
Here's the additional details:
- 2004 Excursion with just over 109K miles
- Replaced faulty EGR valve (was sticking open) about 300 miles ago
- Replaced stock turbo with new powermax turbo 300 miles ago. Old was rusty and pitted with sticking unison ring.
- I just did a total coolant flush, oil cooler back-flush, Restore and Restore+ and added new coolant filter
- Replaced thermostat during coolant flush. ECT stays pretty close to 190 degress when warmed up.
- ECT/EOT delta is mostly between 15 to 18 degrees, sometimes slightly lower or higher. Not much change after the coolant flush, but may be slightly improved.
- I've been doing pretty regular wide open throttle tests during recent test drives with the new parts above (I'm thinking this may have broken some of this stuff loose).
Here's today's marbles. They're all dry and will crumble if crushed. They are dull gray on the inside - not metallic as they kind of look here............
I have a 2005 Explorer XLT with the 4.0L V6 and AdvanceTrac.
I've had a worsening growl in the front end that sounds like it's coming from the front left wheel. I can feel it in the steering wheel, and the sound goes away when I turn the wheel right of center. Center (going straight) or leftward steering, and the noise comes right back.
I changed the wheel bearing today, and there is absolutely no change in symptoms. Turning the CV shaft back and forth by hand, something feels kind of "grindy." It is the same at any point along the shaft, which has me worried that the bad bearing is in the front differential.
Had crunching sounds from front passenger side. Replaced CVJ shaft and hub bearing/assembly noise gone but tire turns hard by hand drivers side turns freely. Looked on line and guy had same thing going on said maybe 4x4 vacuum actuator might be bad and truck stuck in four wheel .does this sound right? I have manual trans and gear box so I don't understand why the actuator is even there.
View 4 RepliesHow the easiest and safely dismantle my steering wheels...
View 1 RepliesI have a 200 f250 v10 srw 4x4.. I've replaced the auto front lockers with warn premium manuals. I cannot get power to the front wheels. The lockers appear fine. I hear the actuator function when I activate 4x4. Whats the possibility of a bad transfer case or front diff and how do i check? I've searched but there seems to be a lot of non-answers.
View 7 RepliesI recently parked my 2001 Accent for the past year and now the rear passenger side wheel won't move. I'm assuming it has seized. I am trying to open the drum for the rear wheel but am not really sure how. The wheel is removed so is the Bolt locking the drum in place. Should it now just pull off? I have a read that it is possible the emergency break is whats causing it to seize up. How does one manually removing the parking break lock ?
View 2 RepliesGirlfriend went to start her car on a nice cold day, and said it wouldn't turn over. so after taking her to work, i tried to see what the issue was . . . and the key wont move. the steering wheel is loose, i used the transmission override to move the stick back and forth a few times. still no go.
Did the hammer tap on the key, and used electronics cleaner on the switch in case something was stuck.
Oddity was, the door ajar chimes come on without the key inserted. So am I chasing electrical gremlins or what? the car is a base model without keyless entry.
I have been driving a 2000 accent with 146k miles on it, and while driving home I thought I had a flat tire. Get out, tires look fine, so I give one (passenger side rear) a light kick with my toe, and it moves. I can wiggle it about 1/4 inch of play, and when lifted on a jack, the wheel rotates just fine so I don't know if its a bearing issue, the shock also turns with the wheel, left/right. The driver side rear doesn't do this so I decided to park it and not drive. What it is?
View 1 RepliesMy accent just crossed 180K mark. From last year the steering wheel shakes quite a bit at highway speeds ,say 70MPH. It's especially bad when I accelerates . Took the car to a shop, they told me two things, the CV axle of passenger side needs replacement, and the wheel hub bearings are bad(both front wheels). They quoted me $200 for replacing the cv axle, and $400 for replacing both front wheel bearings. Since I don't even think the car worth $600 right now(given high mileage), I told them I'll just do the axle(I know how to do it myself but don't have the time, plus it won't be that much cheaper DIY anyway). They said fine, but if you don't replace the bearings you may have the wheel fly off one day and that's dangerous.
They replaced the axle, and the car drives a lot better now. There's still a little bit of shaking at high speed but 75% of that shake has gone away. My question is, does the worn out bearing causes car to tremble at high speed? I heard other people told me there should be a grinding or loud hawling sound if the bearings are bad, but I don't hear that. I searched the internet and some people say, to determine if the hub bearings are bad, just drive it for 10 minutes then feel the hub. If it's barely warm, the bearings are good. If it's warm to hot, then the bearings are bad. I felt it and it's warm, but not too hot to touch. I tried the rear wheels and those are barely warm indeed.
So from this method it seems the front wheel hub bearings are indeed bad. I wonder how long I can keep driving this without endanger myself. $400 is not cheap for this car and I don't have a machine to press in the bearings myself. I can disassemble the rotor and hub that's not a big deal, but I don't know how to get the old bearing out and the new bearing in. Is there a machine shop that just do the pressing? Or, is there any shop selling the hub assembly with bearing already in place? this way I just remove the old hub assembly and replace it with the new assembly, a lot easier. I searched the internet but can only find pre-assembled hub w/ bearing for the rear wheel of this car. I need the front ones.
I had new tyres put on my 2002 Accent 1.5 CDX a few weeks ago, they are 175/70 R 13 and i have Genuine Hyundai Alloy wheels. Over the past few days, Ive noticed a bad wobble that i can feel through the steering wheel, but seems to come from the rear of the car, although it could come from the front, as the car seems to wander around on the road, but going along at 50 mph and taking my hand off the wheel for a second or two it doesn't pull either way, you can just see the steering wheel visible moving from left to right and back again!!!!!
I changed the back wheels to the front and vice versa, and the problem went away, for 24 hours and came back again!!!! This wobble is getting worse, I've had the wheels balanced, rims seem ok, suspension checked, etc and all fine. The only thing I am not sure about is worn track rod ends, and I am not sure what to look for this wobble is at its worse between 30 and 55 mph, but it can be felt on any road (from starting off) and at any speed.