Accent LC (2000-05) :: Smoke Drifts Out Near The Access Plate Between Trans And The Engine
Nov 9, 2012
Our family has a 2003 Accent with 94k, automatic, and one very weird issue besides the teen that drove it last. Ok, towed it home, thought the battery or starter was bad. Replaced starter, battery. Same problem, won't turn over. When you turn the key, engine advances about one inch at a time, meaning the flywheel rotates one inch on each key turn. Ok, here is the weird part: Smoke drifts out of the transmission near the access plate between the trans and the engine! Like there is a smoldering fire inside? The wire off of the battery terminal that goes to the fuse block gets very hot as well. Where do I start? What it is, unless the torque converter is stuck or some solenoid is burned up?
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Question about my dads 2000 explorer with the 4.0, he just noticed it was leaking oil heavily. Added 2quarts and drove it home. I looked under it and the oil is dripping very steadily from what appears to be the inspection plate area where engine meets trans. Have y'all ever seen a rear main seal fall out or cause a leak this heavy? I know we will have to clean it and re check but this is all I have seen at this point. Is there any other seal or issue that could cause this from inside the bell housing area or nearby?
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My car has started to do something odd. Whenever I am in 3rd gear, at about 2000-2200 rpm, the engine will revup 100 rpm or so and then back down (only for a split second). This only happens on 3rd gear and only at about 2000 rpm. Its a 2005 Hyundai Accent Hatchback with an automatic transmission with Royal Purple ATF. I also have a SRI and manga-flow muffler (if that makes any difference).
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It's a '00 zr2, usually after 15-20mins driving I see smoke blowing out rear at highway speed. If I'm driving slow same results with smoke just rolls out from hood. Smells like trans fluid although doesn't seem like the level is any lower yet.... Guessing gasket when under pressure, I would guess passenger side hitting manifold but I haven't seen obvious leaks don't know where to start.
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I have the p0734 and p0732 codes. Thing is it shifts hard into second and wont go into overdrive when first started. After about ten minutes of drive time you shut it off and turn it back on and the thing shifts perfectly. No hard shifts and overdrive works then check engine light turns off. The pulse generators have been replaced when i purchased car. It is an 02 accent with 90,000 miles.
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I just got a 2000 accent. The problems is that sometimes when I shift into 2nd and 3rd is notches sometimes. But it does not do it when i shift down. Also if I shift fast it will occur less often as when I shift low. When my friend drove the car it didnt do it for him. So maybe it is how i drive or something. I make sure the clutch is down all the way.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Accent that is generating a p0713 code. I have replaced sensor and used SP3 fluid. I noticed if I clear codes everything is fine until it shifts into OD. When codes are cleared the car will not shift into OD until it hit about 60mph. The code is generated and then it shifts fine. I would not worry about it put it will not pass IM with the check engine light on.
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I've got a 2003 Accent and my automatic transmission went out, no reverse and the only forward gear is 1st. Was thinking of pulling it and swapping it for a used, but I have been reading on here the many, many automatic transmission problems of the accent and my next thought was to just rebuild it myself. But now I'm thinking more along the of a swap from auto to manual, as I don't want to have to rebuild a transmission that is only going to have to be rebuilt again anyway. As far as stuff like the clutch pedal, linkages, gear shifter, I can get those pretty easily. Does the Accent have a hydraulic clutch?
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It does not like to stay in 5th gear, drops out to neutral. 2001 Accent Hatchback. 1.5l 5-speed
The other day it started slipping out of 5th gear on the expressway. Held good for the first 10 to 20 minutes. Afterwards I had to hold it in 5th for it to stay in gear. While holding I noticed it pushed on the shifter when applying throttle, and let up some when I let of the gas.
I inspected the pivots at the transmission. The forward / back bushing was not installed properly by the previous owner. I rigged it up better with a fender washer and cotterpin. It previously had just a pin and the bushing had expanded out. This removed the play from shifting I had previously noticed. It also halfway fixed the popping out of gear. It stays in gear a little longer, and when I put it back into 5th it stays there for a while most of the time.
I have not inspected the lubricant level yet. Where to check next?
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I have an '05 accent with an auto trans. The car only has 25k on it with the original trans fluid. Every once in a while the trans will thud when coming to a quick stop. It actually doesn't even make a noise, but you can feel it going into presumably 1st gear. It only happens when I need to semi-quickly stop for a yellow light etc. right as I'm coming to a complete stop. Trans seems completely fine otherwise. Is this a normal thing? Just an older style/technology auto?
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1993 TransSport 3.8: Where the heck is the oil pressure sending unit, and what is the best way to access it? What size of OPSU socket does it take; 1", 1 & 1/16", or 1 & 3/16". Do I need the 3/8" or 1/2" drive; extra deep or other wise? The van has a gauge on the dash.
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So my accent with a manual trans has a small leak at the slave cylinder for the clutch. I am driving home and it's shifting hard. I get home pull up to where I live and push In the clutch and the car feels like the clutch is not pushed in. RPMs drop and car stalled. Look under hood and see not fluid in clutch master cylinder. Fill with fluid and pump pedal. I get some pedal back but the car will not crank. Nothing. I have accidentally cranked car when in gear in the past and there did not seem to be a safety switch as the car would move if my foot was not on brakes.
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I recently changed my Hyundai Accent 2004 rings and top cylinder. a day after I left the mechanic garage, the car started bringing out white smokes particularly when I rev.
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2000 Hyundai Accent with 180K. Runs and idles smoothly. When sitting for a few minutes at idle I get a waft of smoke when I accelerate. The car burns minimal ammount of oil and the smoke is not apparent while driving.
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I recently bought a accent, changed the oil then upon starting it back up it just pours out white smoke from the exhaust. i might have put a little too much oil in, would that cause the issue? It didn't happen before the oil change either.
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So I've always been aware of my slight oil leak on my 2003 Hyundai Accent. But it wasn't until I took it to Firestone for a discount oil change that it started getting worse and began to actually smell of burning oil while driving. I've checked the obvious places (ie the oil pan bolt and the newly installed oil filter) and I've determined it's definitely coming from higher up in the engine. Also, when putting cardboard underneath, you can see that it drips from right behind the engine. I figure it is probably that seal that costs but loads of money in labor to replace but when checking it today I noticed that the oil SEEMS to be in the top part of the engine dripping down. I'm attaching pictures of the one spot in particular that appears wet with oil. I'm not sure what it is but I believe it is next to the injectors.
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2004 hyndia accent . Car starts drinking up oil like crazy, no smoke no leaks.
I added some oil one day, started to stall out. I had to jump start it. Ran for 5 minutes fine then huge white smelly smoke from exhaust. I haven't tried to start it since.
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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I've got 120,000 on my 08 manual Accent. Recently I've been getting white smoke after running it hard. It happens like this. I slow down from 70mph or so with the clutch engaged to about 40mph, then upon acceleration the engine stumbles and white smoke pours from the tailpipe. My guess is a leaky head gasket.
I had the dealer go through it. They pressure tested the cylinders and put a scope in them. They claim nothing is wrong with the engine.
I mentioned since they can vouch for the engine now, I'd like to get an estimate on trade in value. I don't think I want to keep it much longer.
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I found some threads about changing the license plate light on a 2009 Hyundai Accent and all of them involved removing the plastic trim inside of the hatch. However, I saw a few people mention that they broke a few plastic clips. I want to prevent breaking any clips.
Also, this ( hyundai-forums.com/184-mc-2006-2011-accent/94825-2009-accent-replacement-bulbs.html ) thread says that the replacement lights for the license plate are 168 or 168LL, but other posters say that they replaced them with white lights. What code are they?
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I have a 2000 V6 full motion passat wagon. Was having oil leaks from the engine that caused the car to smoke. Took it to the mechanic, needed to get into the engine block and since it was at 92,000+ miles they said it would be wise to replace timing belt and water pump to save funds later. However 2 months later, my ABS light and Brake warning light came on and continued to do so intermittently. Took it in, they hooked it to their computer couldn't find a thing we played this game for a month. Had to have emissions done, check engine light came on in addition to ABS they did emission test (w/o clearing the codes) the car pasted. Could these problems be attributed to the timing belt replacement. Car was great never had a hitch before they touched the engine.
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