Accent LC (2000-05) :: Shut Off When Warm Up And Will Not Restart?
Sep 20, 2015
Car starts and run find when cold. Shut off when warm up , will not restart? Could this be a crank sensor problem?
2004 accent GS with 150,000
Car starts and run find when cold. Shut off when warm up , will not restart? Could this be a crank sensor problem?
2004 accent GS with 150,000
I have a 2005 with V6 and 55,000 miles. For over the last year I have had a problem where if you start the car and then shut it off before it fully warms up it will be very hard to restart and barely run till you get it out and run it on the highway for awhile. First noticed this when starting car to back out of driveway to get into attic. Went to restart to put back in garage and car would hardly start. Had to dealer a couple of times and they said you should warm car up before using. That sounds good but is not practical and car never had this problem when new.
View 4 RepliesOK all sensors and evac valve done. No codes being pulled. No check engine light. Car starts no problem in the morning or when its been sitting but when the car has been driven to temp. I will not restart and just keeps cranking, if it starts to start it shudders and dies. I am the original owner and its had any maintenance its needed.
View 4 RepliesI am having with my 2000 Accent GL. It keeps dying while I'm driving it then will not restart. After sitting for awhile it will start but then after a short time dies again. The first thing I did was replace the fuel filter but that did not work. Did a diagnostic scan and it threw a code for the CPS sensor. Replaced THAT and it STILL did not fix it. I reset the computer but it didn't work. The scanner didn't pick up any other codes. Next I checked the relays and they all seem to be fine. Finally, I replaced the fuel filter but the problem did not go away.
View 3 RepliesMy 2002 1.5td accent starts from cold every time but if drive about half a mile then stop when i restart it wont get past about 1200 revs. i leave it for 5 mins then runs fine...
View 1 RepliesMy accent had been sitting neglected for a few years. I decided as a side project I would get it in working order before winter and do more to it next spring. The car had a rough idle when started but I had ran it nearly all day a few months ago.
Last week I changed spark plugs and a few other minor things. The undercarriage was wire wheeled and coated with POR 15. This weekend I added gas (with gas cans, car is off road currently) and added techron fuel treatment. The car took two tries to start (always two) so I changed the fuel filter and that problem went away. However, I noticed that when the car idles it begins stalling when it reaches temperature. Thermostat says car is not overheating.
After 15 or so minutes of idling the car just cuts out and SOMETIMES will start but usually it just cranks and cranks. If I wait a bit it will start up again but will die more quickly and this will keep happening until I let it cool. I am also noticing a fairly loud clicking sound from behind fuel injectors. Not the injectors themselves but somewhere behind the fuel injector rail. I am unsure if this had been going on previously or if it is a symptom of the stalling problem.
I cleaned throttle body, IAC, crank and cam sensors though no error codes to speak of. Rough idle takes a few minutes as at first the engine is smooth.
I have a 2000 Accent that wont shift past third gear until the car is warm. The car has 140k miles. When I turn on the car and pull onto the high way it sticks in 3rd. I then have to slow down and drive through a small town. When I get on the other side of the small town and get back up to speed it will shift. Over drive is on.
View 4 RepliesMy friend's Accent LC 1.3L won't start from time to time. This never happens on cold start, this is always the situation after warm engine stops and needs to be run again after 5-15 minutes. When you try to turn on the car then, starter is rolling the engine but nothing happens (Yellow key light on dashboard is on, so there is no problem with a key code). Then he wait for a few minutes and car starts like it nothing happens. I suspect the crankshaft sensor.
View 2 Replies2005Accent. First question: Just replaced blower assembly last week and worked normally. Now the blower operates even with the car off and the no keys in the ignition. The fan speed selector still switches between all speeds whether it's running or not, so it doesn't seem to be the resistor.
View 4 RepliesThis is what my car is doing after it warms up. It will do it then stop, then do it again and so on. I am pretty sure when the motor is under load it runs a little rough but is hard to tell. The car has 178,000 miles on it. timing belt was done at 113,000. I just replace the plugs and wires changed the oil and the air filter 1,000 miles ago. and it will still do it. I am at a loss as to why it keeps doing this. I have tried injector cleaner, sea foam and engine restore. What would cause this? The check engine light is not on. i replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor about 40,000 miles ago.
Its a 2003 hatch with the 1.6 5 speed .....
This problem has plagued me for a while(since last year). When I start the car in the morning, there's a brief period when the power steering is totally gone. When the car is thoroughly warmed up(after 2 minutes of driving), the power steering is back and there will be no problem. Wondering what could that be. The power steering fluid level is normal.
View 5 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2005 Accent and recently we went to go drive it and the battery was dead. I noticed that when we shut the car off the black LCD Odometer display was staying on the dash with the power shut off and no key in the ignition. I figured out which Fuse it was under the hood and pulled it. The odometer lcd turned off and we also lost all of the interior lights.. When I ran the car with the fuse pulled the Odometer LCD would display normally but somehow the battery is still managing to drain even with the Fuse pulled.. Any wiring diagrams for the fuse panel under the hood, if it could be a relay that is still drawing power when the car is shut off..
View 1 RepliesI bought a 02 accent base model hb 5 speed 109k miles for a winter car (have a mustang in garage.) It ran good until tonight when the timing belt snapped. I know this because while driving it made some ticking noises and then shut off and when you try to start it the noise that comes indicates no compression so the belt must've snapped and bent the valves.
View 3 Replies1990 Celica 2.2 liter, 5SFE manual trans car with 239k miles.The car occasionally stalls after it is warm and won't restart. When is is cold she fires right up as it does most of the time when she is warm. To restart he sprays starter fluid in the intake or waits until it cools down. Also as the car gets warm the idle decreases to around 650. Adjusted idle speed to 750 but no effect. The only code is 1-2, low or no RPM, measured the RPM sensor air gap and within spec, measured the sensor resistance and within spec. sensor wiring and connector looked good, measured the temp sensor and within spec, disconnected the EGR vacuum line and no effect. Problem occurs once or twice a week but at the most embarrassing place.
View 4 RepliesI've got a 2004 wagon and occasionally, when it's warmed up, if I shut it off it's hard to start again. When I turn the key it fires up, but when I release the starter it dies, like I've shut the car off. Giving it throttle makes no difference. I have to do this several times, and then it keeps running. Never does it cold. No codes.
View 4 RepliesI have Jeep Liberty 2002 with 100300 miles. I having starter problem and the starter was replaced with a new one. Still I am having the same problem, the car can only re-start 30 minutes or more after I shut it off. The mechanic stated that he does not know what it is causing the problem.
View 11 RepliesMy wife's 2010 Prius IV died on the highway at 65 mph; just shut down at speed and would not restart. She had it towed to the dealer and there it's been now for 5 weeks! The tow truck operator was able to drive up on the flat bed using EV, but no engine. Dealer says it's the inverter which has a nationwide backorder and no ETA.
View 9 RepliesI currently have a 06 camry se v6 3.3 3mz-fe with an electrical issue. Here is the list of issues
1. whenever I draw power to do anything after the car is started some things restart it self or shut off then slowly come back on. For EX if I am driving and apply the brakes the radio shuts off and/or the gauges reset (like I am turning off the car and re inserting the key).
2. if I roll all the windows up at the same time same thing as above.
3. if the radio is too loud same thing
4. everything inside the vehicle is dimmer then before.
while this is happening the engine is still running and never shuts off only electrical stuff shuts on and off.
this is what is electrical aftermarket on the car that I have changed
pioneer AVH-4000
JL 150/4 500/1
JL componets front 6x9 rear vr 12"w6v2
LED mood lights interior at feet front and rear
HID's low and high
1.5 farad cap
optima red top with dual post (side mounts used for factory connections top for system 0ga connections)
I have also done the following
disconnected all of the above (so no lights, radio, interior lights)
replaced the alternator (twice, the first was a DOA from autozone and now I fear that the second one is going bad because its not charging @14.??v anymore im lucky if it charges at 13.6)
checked all my grounds under the hood and trunk
checked all fuses and relays that I can find
charged the battery even when it tested good but was low at 12.1v
checked all of the wire harnesses under the hood for shorts or exposed wires
I have done almost everything but strip the entire car down to shell and inspect the whole harness and behind the dash, which I don't have the time to do. I have been trying to solve this issue for a month now and its not getting better its getting worst so I make the last step and take it down to the dealer.
2004 pontiac grand am, after driving and shutting off the car, it will not restart or stalls out while waiting at traffic lights. When I try to restart the car, all I get is clicking sounds, only does this on warm or hot humid days. The dealer told me to just hold down the gas pedal and crank the engine till it restarts. I have tried the turning on the key for a minute, wait, then turn the key back off, and then to restart, but that doesn't work either. If I wait for a good ten minutes, the car usually starts. When I turn on the key I do hear the fuel pump kick in. I have replaced the fuel regulator, ignition switch, keys, computer chip in the ignition system, battery, and starter- twice. I have heard that it could be a crankshaft sensor? No codes are showing up when this happens.
View 16 RepliesI finally caught my engine rattle on audio. Give a listen and tell me what you think this is: [URL] .....
There's a TSB about a rattle on a cold start, but mine never rattles when it's cold. This always happens on a warm restart -- usually about 45 to 75 minutes after I've parked it.
It's been doing this for at least a year, but I've had trouble catching it in the act and, of course, the dealer can't reproduce it. I currently have 37k miles on it. Oil changes completed at 1k, 5k and every 5k after. Using Mobil 1 5W-20 since the second change.
My 1998 Acura RL just shut off while entering the garage. The engine shut off, and the battery and engine lights remained on. An attempt to restart the car without taking the key out of the ignition did not work (no sound). Taking the key out of the ignition and restarting it worked like normal.
Occasionally the car makes a loud sound right after starting, which resembled a cross between a honk and a grinding sound. I'm not sure if this is related.
I would rather the car not stop mid-drive on a busy street or the highway.