i recently changed my engine oil and filter from carquest brand to quaker state and about 500 miles later, i started having some issues like, rough idle and loud ticking and bottom engine noise. is that just a coincidence or any problems with this oil? 1.6L D.O.H.C.
View 2 RepliesI bought a 2005 Hyundai Accent about 5-6 months ago, GS 2 Dr model, 52,000kms (69,000 on her now), and lately she has been making a weird ticking sound form the engine when idle, if you give her some gas it slowly goes away as your RPMS increase. I had my father look at it, he said it seems fine, i also had a garage look at it and they also said its fine, but too me the engine sounds different then it did when i got it, maybe the cold from the winter could be doing this? when the engine is heated up it still makes the noise.
View 4 RepliesMy engine is making a ticking noise. Louder when I start it and not as intense after it warms up but its still there. I first thought it was one of my pulleys making noise but I brought it to a friend who knows a lot more then I do and he says to check the engine valves. Did some searching online and thinking it might be the valve lash adjuster but not sure.
Anyway whats the best way to go about this? What type of oil should I be using and I also read I should be only buying Hyundai oil filters?
When you start the engine on my 04 hyundai accent something under the hood is making a ticking sound. Seems if you run the engine awhile the ticking decreases. What this is?
View 5 RepliesRecently bought a 2001 Accent that has been experiencing a 'rough idle' for the last few weeks. Basically, after I've driven the car for a few minutes (from a cold engine position) and then stop at a stop light or stop sign, I can hear the engine get louder and the car starts to vibrate slightly, after I've driven for about 15 minutes at higher speeds and then stop again I can actually see the steering wheel shaking when I take my hands off of it. If i put the car in park when I am stopped and the engine is on, the idle calms down quite a bit. The weird part is that when I first start driving the car in the morning, the rough idle problem doesn't happen until about 5 minutes of steady driving - so when the engine is colder I don't experience the problem, The problem is not that serious, and Ive already brought it into a dealer who cleaned out fuel injection, gave me a major tune up and replaced all the spark plugs, but the problem still persists. I am gonna bring it back to them but they seem a bit lost to be honest. Other than this the car is driving normally when I am not idling.
View 14 Replies2010 F150 ... So I have the tick noise at rpm's 800-1000 at drive through, stops, etc. So I did research on it a few months ago and saw that it might be VCT's but should be able to drive. so I drove it waiting to save money and have it go to a shop. well this past weekend while coming home from work my oil light came on the pressure dropped to zero, I was on the highway so I drove about another mile to get off highway and once I got off my truck died. I had it towed to my house and I thought I blew my motor. So I started doing research here and found that the VCT's AND cam Phaser could be bad. so I replaced my VCT on driver side put it all back together it started and loud knock was gone. then after 5 mins it was back very loud knock!
So I shut it down and took apart the passenger side once I got the valve cover off I found the problem.... The bolt that holds the cam phaser in place snapped off and was riding along the camshaft. So I took that out and extracted remaining part of bolt. inspected my camshaft and it was really messed up. so I bought new Phaser and Camshaft. the camshaft just came in today and I am trying to put it back in. but the hole for the pin in the phaser doesn't line up and I cant spin the shaft to make it line up. should I spin the cam phaser? I marked the chain and the phaser is where it should be on chain, but with that bolt snapping off could that have thrown the timing off so my mark is no good? when I lay the camshaft in place it sits perfect and if I just move the phase over 2-3 links it will all fit together. Should I do that?
I have an 03 Accent with an automatic transmission that was recently replaced. I'm getting a ticking noise and I removed the inspection cover and had a look and found that the thin plate bolted to the front of the torque converter is cracked at two of the ears where it bolts on so I suspect that is what's creating the noise.
I hate to have the trans on this car pulled again, I had it done once before because I don't have the tools here to do that. It's just an old work car that never is even driven on the freeway and I was wondering if simply welding that plate up would keep it going or is it something that will break and crack again.
I have a 2005 Ford Freestyle Limited AWD and there is a loud ticking noise at idle. It seems to quite a little when put in gear.
View 6 RepliesMy 2011 2.0t has developed an odd ticking sound from the engine bay that is audible when idling. I haven't been able to pinpoint the source of the sound because once I drop the vehicle in Neutral it goes away although sometimes I do hear random ticks when I do this. The ticking sound is intermittent and sometimes I hear nothing.
In the video at 11 seconds the ticking starts. At 18 seconds it ends as I drop the car in neutral. What this sound could be? I'm going to try to hit the handbrake and check myself or have someone in the drivers seat while I go check but have yet to truly pinpoint the source of the noise.
[URL] ......
I have a 2008 Ford F150 that ticks loudly at hot idle. Took it to the dealer and hear is what the service manager has said so far:
"So far we checked codes, all was ok. tested oil pressure and found it met the spec of 15 PSI, removed valve covers. Found the CVT solonoids are the newer style. Inspected the camshafts, cam phasers, rocker arms, cam chains. All check ok at this time. Not finding any true "root of concern" I'm trying to get approval for engine replacement in hopes that replacement is quieter. Approval is difficult without any true failure...still working on it though."
If this is not the cam phasers, what else could it possibly be?
Here is my engine noise: [URL] .....
I have a hyundai accent 04 when I start it up there seems to be a ticking noise under the hood. It seems if the car is warmed up the sound decreases. What's going on?
View 7 RepliesI own a 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T GL Model.
When in Idle the car starts to make a ticking noise and tends to get louder the longer it sits. On top of this the idle does seem louder than when I first got the car like a constant purring noise if that makes sense. I am only able to hear the ticking while in idle, but the purring noise is continuous even while driving. I'm not sure what the problem could be but have the necessary funds to make some repairs on my car though not tons.
My car currently has approximately 128,500 miles on the engine. I'd like to keep this car running for a long time.
I have a 2005 Accent with just over 35,000 miles on. Last night (in extreme cold here in Chicago), the car started running loud. Loud on start, idle, and acceleration - normal when maintaining speed, even at highway speed.
Since the loud sound first started, I have driven about 100 miles (had to for work, no choice). The sound is pretty much the same - definitely in the front end, and the best way I can describe it is a much louder version of the normal sounds you would hear - idle sound but louder, acceleration sound but louder, etc.
No warning lights have come on, car hasn't shown any signs of overheating on the gauges, etc. I had a somewhat similar issue with an old '99 Saturn SL2 w/ 115,000 miles - but in that instance the flex pipe had corroded and completely separated from the rest of the exhaust system.
I've searched but can't find what my problem is , ON idle when clutch is not depressed loud ticking noise , but when I push the clutch in it goes away . Also the ticking noise will get louder if I accelerate . ONLY Im first gear will I hear a loud grinding noise which means I have to quickly switch into second . Sound similar to something being dragged along a fence . Again the grinding sound I'm first will only happen if I'm giving it gas. Car has 325,000 km . Something with the transmission ?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 focus ZTS with about 190,000 mile. Near the back of the valve body near firewall I have a loud suction of air sound. I've checked all vacuums and they are good. I was told it's the air control valve but not sure. The car idles rough at all times and when I turn it off is the sound sounds like it's draining out.
View 2 RepliesI own a 2001 Jetta 1.8t with Gti front end. So I was driving downtown the other day and I bottomed out really hard and cracked my oil pan. I didn't realize it was cracked and leaking so I drove it home, drove fine with no issues at all. When I got home I parked it and went inside and in the morning I came out and tuned it on for maybe ten seconds. It made a really loud ticking sound that was constant and oil pressure was almost all the way down. So I shut it off and looked and saw the oil pan. I fixed the oil pan yesterday and started it up and it sounded really good and drives fine. But I've been hearing a pretty decently loud ticking sound when everything's up to temp and warmed up. The ticking is only at an idle and it drives like it use to just sounds bad at an idle. Some people think it's my oil pump and tensioner, some people thing I ruined the turbo and possibly internals.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Accent with about 150,000 miles on it. Recently I have noticed that when my car is sitting in an intersection, the car appears to idle roughly. I would't exactly say that the car is idling rough, cause it stays at a consistent RPM while in drive or park, but the engine gets louder and the steering wheel starts to vibrating. When I slightly step on the gas, the vibration goes away. Also, when I put my car in park or neutral, the car quiets down and the vibrating stops.
I was wondering if it could be the throttle position sensor, or maybe a broken motor mount, but I haven't had a chance to look into it it. I did replace the purge control valve last week, which slightly improved the vibrations.
This is what my car is doing after it warms up. It will do it then stop, then do it again and so on. I am pretty sure when the motor is under load it runs a little rough but is hard to tell. The car has 178,000 miles on it. timing belt was done at 113,000. I just replace the plugs and wires changed the oil and the air filter 1,000 miles ago. and it will still do it. I am at a loss as to why it keeps doing this. I have tried injector cleaner, sea foam and engine restore. What would cause this? The check engine light is not on. i replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor about 40,000 miles ago.
Its a 2003 hatch with the 1.6 5 speed .....
I'm an Accent 2000 gs owner and since a few days i had this problem. It has a bad idle and looks like it will stall... need to give some gas to stay alive.
Bad acceleration too, it misses some gas. (puffing, rumbling, shaking a bit). After accel, it's ok until the next red light.
Now I can't even drive cause it's worse. (too difficult to accelerate). Is it a sensor?
Symptoms:
- Check engine light: misfire on all cylinders, and "lean fuel trim at part throttle".
Started with changing leads and plugs without improvement. Then I found the tank ventilation seemed to be clogged, as there was a massive vacuum when opening the filler cap. Checked the canister and replaced a couple of corroded lines. Also used compressed air to blow through the canister and lines up to the Evap-purge valve. Seemed to be OK afterwards (no vacuum), but still misfires.
Changed the Mass Air flow sensor, and it seems the misfires got better, but instead I have some other issues:
- Hard to start when cold. Starts up fine for a second then sounds like it's getting to much fuel and dies. Possible to keep it running if pumping the pedal or holding it at higher revs.
- Rough idle when warm. (Same as before I changed the MAF and plugs/ leads.)
- Drives and runs ok when out on the road.
- Pulled the cable to the Idle Control Valve without any change in idle...?
- Got flashing engine light and "misfire cylinder 4" when giving full throttle on low revs and seond gear up a steep climb.
What could cause this?
- Temperature sensor?
- O2-sensor?
- Idle control valve?
- Coilpack?
I have a Hyundai-Accent 1.5 GL, Auto, year 2000 car. I bought this 4 months ago and ever since it has been giving the check engine signal. However, running conditions of the car has been normal and therefore, I didn't worry about the check engine signal. Now, the engine is rough idling for few seconds when I start the car in the morning, and then it comes back to normal.
View 12 Replies