Accent LC (2000-05) :: Rough Idle While Drive Or Reverse
Mar 30, 2015
I have a 2000 Accent with about 150,000 miles on it. Recently I have noticed that when my car is sitting in an intersection, the car appears to idle roughly. I would't exactly say that the car is idling rough, cause it stays at a consistent RPM while in drive or park, but the engine gets louder and the steering wheel starts to vibrating. When I slightly step on the gas, the vibration goes away. Also, when I put my car in park or neutral, the car quiets down and the vibrating stops.
I was wondering if it could be the throttle position sensor, or maybe a broken motor mount, but I haven't had a chance to look into it it. I did replace the purge control valve last week, which slightly improved the vibrations.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
2004 accent had a drink spill on lower console, and think this is why it quit shifting? Disassembled, cleaned switches, unhooked battery, and car still has no reverse, shifts HARD into drive, will not move further.
View 5 Replies
'05 Accent, 19k miles. Car has been great, except suddenly I'm getting a weird shifting issue when I first start the vehicle. After I put the car in reverse, then change into drive, the car SLAMS and stops briefly, as if I've hit something. This has started to happen a lot lately.
View 1 Replies
This is what my car is doing after it warms up. It will do it then stop, then do it again and so on. I am pretty sure when the motor is under load it runs a little rough but is hard to tell. The car has 178,000 miles on it. timing belt was done at 113,000. I just replace the plugs and wires changed the oil and the air filter 1,000 miles ago. and it will still do it. I am at a loss as to why it keeps doing this. I have tried injector cleaner, sea foam and engine restore. What would cause this? The check engine light is not on. i replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor about 40,000 miles ago.
Its a 2003 hatch with the 1.6 5 speed .....
View 8 Replies
I'm an Accent 2000 gs owner and since a few days i had this problem. It has a bad idle and looks like it will stall... need to give some gas to stay alive.
Bad acceleration too, it misses some gas. (puffing, rumbling, shaking a bit). After accel, it's ok until the next red light.
Now I can't even drive cause it's worse. (too difficult to accelerate). Is it a sensor?
View 8 Replies
Symptoms:
- Check engine light: misfire on all cylinders, and "lean fuel trim at part throttle".
Started with changing leads and plugs without improvement. Then I found the tank ventilation seemed to be clogged, as there was a massive vacuum when opening the filler cap. Checked the canister and replaced a couple of corroded lines. Also used compressed air to blow through the canister and lines up to the Evap-purge valve. Seemed to be OK afterwards (no vacuum), but still misfires.
Changed the Mass Air flow sensor, and it seems the misfires got better, but instead I have some other issues:
- Hard to start when cold. Starts up fine for a second then sounds like it's getting to much fuel and dies. Possible to keep it running if pumping the pedal or holding it at higher revs.
- Rough idle when warm. (Same as before I changed the MAF and plugs/ leads.)
- Drives and runs ok when out on the road.
- Pulled the cable to the Idle Control Valve without any change in idle...?
- Got flashing engine light and "misfire cylinder 4" when giving full throttle on low revs and seond gear up a steep climb.
What could cause this?
- Temperature sensor?
- O2-sensor?
- Idle control valve?
- Coilpack?
View 26 Replies
I have a Hyundai-Accent 1.5 GL, Auto, year 2000 car. I bought this 4 months ago and ever since it has been giving the check engine signal. However, running conditions of the car has been normal and therefore, I didn't worry about the check engine signal. Now, the engine is rough idling for few seconds when I start the car in the morning, and then it comes back to normal.
View 12 Replies
I've recently purchased an 01 accent GS and I've replaced the timing belt, water pump, and spark plugs. Ive also got no cold air, and original struts with 119k on the vehicle. Those are the least of my worries now as my car loves quitting out at idle; and it does not get any better hot or cold. One of the plugs was completely black when it was taken out (not by me: mechanic work) so that's when they mentioned a cylinder misfire. they wanted an additional 100 to figure out what that could be attributed to on top of the 550 for the work mentioned above! I am now next to broke and want to see if I can trouble shoot some of the causes myself. I am thinking Plug wires, crankshaft/camshaft position sensors (if there are 2 dif ones?) MAF sensor, o2 sensor, injectors, and fuel filter. My understanding is that the coil pack controls 2 cylinders at a time and I just have 1 bad cylinder...I need to figure out where to start as I have no codes to work off of. also, I don't know how to assess resistance with an ohm meter.
View 12 Replies
I have a 00 Accent with 132k miles, I replaced the motor a year ago with a correct 2000 Hyundai 1.5 with 50k miles. I replaced everything that I could at the time, timing belt , starter, water pump, and clutch. It has been running fantastic getting 40 miles per gallon with zero problems , However in the last week I have noticed a rough idle that seems to miss with a vibration that it didn't have before. I have a noticeable loss of power and torque. My miles per gallon has also dropped to about 25 mpg. My check engine light is not on. I will check the plugs and change the air filter today but I would like to know what else could be causing the problem as I am not really sure what to check.
View 9 Replies
Recently bought a 2001 Accent that has been experiencing a 'rough idle' for the last few weeks. Basically, after I've driven the car for a few minutes (from a cold engine position) and then stop at a stop light or stop sign, I can hear the engine get louder and the car starts to vibrate slightly, after I've driven for about 15 minutes at higher speeds and then stop again I can actually see the steering wheel shaking when I take my hands off of it. If i put the car in park when I am stopped and the engine is on, the idle calms down quite a bit. The weird part is that when I first start driving the car in the morning, the rough idle problem doesn't happen until about 5 minutes of steady driving - so when the engine is colder I don't experience the problem, The problem is not that serious, and Ive already brought it into a dealer who cleaned out fuel injection, gave me a major tune up and replaced all the spark plugs, but the problem still persists. I am gonna bring it back to them but they seem a bit lost to be honest. Other than this the car is driving normally when I am not idling.
View 14 Replies
i recently changed my engine oil and filter from carquest brand to quaker state and about 500 miles later, i started having some issues like, rough idle and loud ticking and bottom engine noise. is that just a coincidence or any problems with this oil? 1.6L D.O.H.C.
View 2 Replies
2004 Accent 1.6L
Changed the timing belt and water pump this past weekend. I made sure the timing marks aligned before I put the belts on. They were still aligned after turning the engine by hand and still aligned after taking the car out for a test drive. I did not notice rough idle when I started the engine in the garage nor did I notice a rough idle during the test drive.
A few days later I am now noticing the car will idle roughly when I come to a stop. The idle will get rough enough to gently shake the car. No engine light and no unusual noise from the engine.
I am going to check the timing marks again tonight. I suspect the belt may actually be off by one tooth. I have driven over 100 miles since changing the belt so I don't believe it is off anymore than one tooth or else I presume I'd probably have already broken down or been hearing unusual noises.
Furthermore, I do not seem to have any loss in power. I still have good acceleration and no roughness unless at idle engine speed. I do, however, run rough at higher speeds (75+ mph) on the highway, but this was present before the timing belt change. Unfortunately the car does not have an RPM gauge.
Having said all of this, are there any other possible reasons why I might be idling rough now?
View 4 Replies
Here's what happens to my car: If its in park you can floor the throttle and its smooth and quiet for the most part. Same with reverse. I can put it in reverse, back up hard and it's smooth. When i put it in drive, stationary, it sounds rough. When I'm taking off from a stop it sounds rough until I'm at a good cruising speed at which point it seems smooth, until stopped again … … The noise is rough in both drive and reverse. Note: this stops for about a day after hoisting the rear end. Also, when going down the highway, the throttle "pauses " for a moment, then resumes speed about every 5 minutes ...
View 1 Replies
Two big issues of concern with my newly purchased used Accent with 40k on it.
When starting the car first thing in the morning, when I drive the car out my drive way in reverse, it feels like it runs a little rough in reverse. Nothing dramatic, but still strangely rough to cause me a little concern. The rest of the day i only have to reverse briefly from parking spaces, so i dont really notice it then. Is this normal? My driveway is also at a slight downhill angle, which may be related to the roughness?
My second big concern, is my AC makes a very low, hardly audible, but still noticeable growling sound. It is most noticeable after the car has been sitting a few hours, then I start it, and if I wait for about 30 seconds, I hear it growl for about 10 seconds. While driving the car around I hear it sporadically make the sound then too. It isn't consistent enough to say I hear it every certain amount of time. Its very random, except I always hear it after it's been sitting for a long time.
I can hear the sound best when the fan is set to Level 1. Turning it up to Level 4 doesn't make the growl louder, but it makes the fan so loud that its harder to hear the growl. Also, when I have it at level 1, and turn the AC button off, the growl goes away. It's concerning to me, and when I took it to the dealership, it wouldn't make the growl sound when the guy listened.
View 8 Replies
A coworker has asked me to take a look at their 2013 Camry LE, 48,000 miles. It has a quite annoying vibration at idle and only when in reverse or drive. AC is not running this time of year, but does get worse if the compressor is turned on.
I'd like to think the trans and engine mounts are fine. It does not have any noticeable torque converter shudder. I have cleaned the throttle body, not that dirty, but not much improvement.
I suggested that he try different brands and grades of gas to see if matters improved at all - Shell 89 seems to be a slight improvement over what is normally used (just 87 from Costco, Sunoco, or Hess), but nothing substantial.
Spark plug change, decarbonizing top end?
Spark plugs look about like I'd expect an iridium plug to at these miles - no signs of oil burning, not tons of carbon, etc. I didn't get a real good look at the piston tops.
View 7 Replies
I have a 1997 ford f150 5.4 litre truck and the truck runs real rough kinda surging in park and in drive and reverse i have a couple oxygen sensor codes P 0171, P0174, P0136, P1131, P1151 and an idle air control valve code P1506...
View 5 Replies
My 2000 Eclipse has a really bad shaking problem when put into reverse or drive. Also, it bogs down really bad when accelerating when first put into gear. It is the gs model. And I've searched everywhere online for an answer. It shifts fine. The idle drops down to around 500 when put into gear.. Whats the problem..
View 19 Replies
Very strange problem for me especially since it's not my car, belongs to my sister. Only code that was set last month indicated the MAF so I cleaned it and the car ran fine. Started to hesitate up hills (steep uphill driveway) so I replaced the fuel filter yesterday and my sister said it drove just fine uphill. Now it stalls whenever put into drive, no codes set and none pending. It will idle in reverse but not in drive.
View 1 Replies
I think I resolved the idle issue on my 2009 Corolla S with 82,500 miles and Automatic Transmission.
Symptoms:
Idled at between 600 and 800 rpms
Annoying vibration in drive and reverse, no vibration in park or neutral
On hard stops, the engine felt like it was going to die
Turning on the a/c would cause the idle to increase to 1000 rpms and the vibration would go away.
At 82,500 miles, I cleaned the throttle body which was extremely dirty.
Process:
Disconnect the positive battery cable
Remove the top of the air box and flex duct going to the throttle body
Disconnect the two coolant lines going to the throttle body, make sure and have a few old bolts to plug the lines so you do not lose too much coolant
Remove the electrical connector to the throttle body
Remove the vacumn line to the valve cover
Remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm) securing the throttle body to the intake.
The throttle body does not have a gasket, it is an o-ring which should be fine.
Once you have the throttle body off of the engine, clean it thoroughly with Chemtool throttle body cleaner.
The inside of the throttle body and throttle plate should look like shiny milled aluminum. when done.
Spray chemtool into the two ports where the antifreeze lines were connected. If possible use compressed air to blow out these ports.
Clean the inside of the intake and the mesh screen where the throttle body bolts to the intake.
Reassemble, connect the battery, crank the engine and just let it idle for a good 10 minutes
The 2009 Corolla S DOES NOT have a serviceable IAC. It is riveted on to the throttle body. This is why it is important to spray the cleaner in the antifreeze ports in order to clean it. These ports are the antifreeze bypass ports.
View 2 Replies
What are the symptoms of a worn motor or transmission mount? I feel a distinct clunk when I place the car in Drive or Reverse from idle. I did not notice any problem when I bought the car few weeks ago. Before spending 300+ I checked for the problem one more time. The problem is that the clunk was all but gone. An intermittent clunk! What gives? The car is an '05 Malibu w/4cyl, 119k. The former owner had the transmission fluid changed at 94k.
View 1 Replies
I recently bought a 2014 4-cylinder SE, sight unseen. I test drove another 4-cylinder SE that I recall idled smoothly before I bought mine - or at least I did not notice it, but this one was a trade from another lot and had all of the options that I wanted.
So - is it "normal" for the 4-cylinder Camrys to idle very rough with or without the A/C on, and in drive? I have tried a tank of 87, and a tank of 93 octane. Very small difference in smoothness on 93 octane, but I'd prefer not to have to run that. I owned a 4-cylinder 2008 Chevrolet Malibu before this car, and it idled much smoother than this Camry.
I also have a weird grind that sounds like the starter isn't disengaging when I start the car in the mornings. Push-button start on my car, so it isn't me turning the key too long or anything of that sort.
View 14 Replies
