Accent LC (2000-05) :: Replaced Plugs But CEL Still On
Nov 19, 2011
My Hyundai w/119K has been sitting up just moving it out of the driveway for my other 2 cars every day...but I used to drive it 60 miles a day back and forth to work since I bought it ...
Have all the parts to do timing belt change new timing belt, water pump, accessory belts, new tensioner spring and new tensioner just waiting for it to cool down here in Florida to work on it ...
When I stopped driving daily it the A/C compressor stopped working needs a new compressor so I will also do that with a friend that's an auto mechanic as well as timing belt etc.
Ok now to make a long story short in the process of just moving around the driveway the lifters began making loud clicking sounds so I changed oil (synthetic 10W30) and hyundai oil filter and clicking seems to have really almost gone away...
So that's probably taken care of well the check engine light came on a couple weeks ago and today I had code read and it was a misfire so I changed out 4 spark plugs NGK BKR5E-11(6953) and took it a test drive and it no longer stumbles and drives strong and I honestly do not think the wires or coils are bad and I do not think its misfiring any longer.
CEL is still on--- will it reset itself or can I reset it (without OBD reader)
Can the battery be disconnected & will that reset CEL
Apparently my car likes to have the mileage put on it and has more problems sitting up then being run all the time!!
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Like the title says...'02 Accent,1.6 dohc.Won't start.No spark.
Pulled code p0335-crank sensor circuit A.
Replaced sensor...still nothing.
Is there something else that commonly goes with these symptoms?...or did I just get a bum sensor?
Also,once I try starting or turn key on,I hear a buzzing coming from throttle body area for about 10 seconds even after key is off. Not sure if its related or normal.
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I own a 2000 Hyundai Accent with 85,000 miles on it. I recently took my car into a local shop because the pressure on my brake pedal was extremely low. I was almost pushing it to the floor. On my first trip to the shop, they replaced the rear wheel cylinders because they were leaking. This replacement didn't fix my problem.
On the second trip to the shop, they replaced my master cylinder. I did call around to other shops to do a price comparison and the price was reasonable on both jobs. This work was done about two weeks ago.
At first, this seemed to fix my problem, the pressure was perfect. Since then I've been having an intermittent problem with the brake pedal pressure changing. It would get a little hard during driving, but would correct itself after a few moments. I don't drive that often or very far, so I was waiting to see if the problem would get worse.
Last night it did. I went out and when I tried to drive my car home my pedal was extremely hard. I could barely push it. While I was driving my car home (I was close to home), it felt like I was driving with my brakes on. My car would stop as soon as I took my foot off the gas pedal, I could not coast. When I got out, I could feel heat coming from the front tires, which I didn't even have work done on. There was also a smell that I've never smelled before. It almost smelled like something burning.
I was told I should have my car towed back to the shop on a lifted bed and not rolled there and that they should fix my car at no charge because they did something wrong.
My ultimate question is did the shop do something wrong and should I take it back to them if they did? Should they be responsible for this new repair? I don't want to go demanding anything if it's possible this is a whole new problem and not their fault. Even though it does seem like an awfully big coincidence. My next question is: what could be possibly wrong with my car? I would like to know what I'm getting myself into.
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I have a hyundai accent 2005 sedan (automatic transmission). The vehicle is a NON-US model. My gas consumption is approximately 7.3km per litre which is very high.
The spark plugs have been replaced , tires are at 30psi , and air filter is new. The spark plug cables are also new. The obdII device does not detect any issues and the engine check light is also off.
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I have a 2007 Honda Fit that seems to misfire when idling both in park and drive. It occurs with the A/C on and off. We have changed the plugs and all coils and it continues. This car has 56,000 miles, the problem started at about 40,000 miles.
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I recently replaced the spark plugs on my 2002 Camry SE V6 (Gen 5). Let me just say that it was INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to reach the rear 3 plugs as they sit underneath the intake manifold, way to the rear of the engine compartment. To reach those, I had to unplug some wires reaching on top of the engine, then loosen the intake manifold.
Along the way I broke a tiny air valve that sits underneath intake manifold, and replaced it right away, before starting the car.
When everything was put back together, the car started wonderfully, only to notice the engine light come on. I had the codes checked at the dealer and they indicated a malfunctioning Catalytic Converter and A/F Sensor and some other emissions stuff. Later that day, the VCS/TRAC OFF light came on as well. The service guy at the dealer said those typically come on together with the Check Engine light, which sounds like something he pulled out of somewhere!
The car drives well, no hesitation, no weird behavior, but has no traction control, naturally. While loosening the manifold I had to use a little force to flex it out of place. My guess is that it I may have yanked something out place: may be a wire issue, or a sensor.
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My husband just replaced the spark plugs in my 2005 prius with 174,000 miles (also replaced the right headlamp bulb). When I started the car, the PROBLEM check engine light Hybrid Warning Light came on.
Owner's manual says take it to the Toyota dealer. The dealer is 50 miles away. Is it safe to drive it the 50 miles? It drove okay up and down my driveway.
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1989 Nissan pathfinder. 6cylinder - VG30i - Manual trans
Engine was misfiring (running okay but putt, putt, putting) so I pulled be plugs to check for signs. Other than wear and wide gap the plugs looked okay, but I installed new plugs as they're cheap and I was already pulling them. I replaced them one at a time so didn't mix up the wiring. I went to restart the engine and now it turns over and starts but then immediately dies. If I really slam on the pedal I can get it to rev up a couple times, but it really wants to completely die right away. It'll start but won't run
- I took the battery lead (neg) off for a few days - maybe that reset something?
- I had a very empty gas tank - so low that I thought it might be out of fuel. I put two gallons in just to make sure. Because I can slam on the gas and get it to revving I'm not sure being out of gas is the issue.
- I removed the distributor cap to check for wear but reinstalled (picture attached).
- I sprayed some Mass airflow sensor cleaner into the throttle body to clean up, the throttle body valve blade was pretty clean.
- I'm doing this test without the air filter in. The old one was so dirty I removed it and didn't bother putting it back on. Going to buy a new one today.
- It cannot pass smog due to this misfire (obviously not detonating fuel so it's polluting)
- The engine was start up readily before I started tinkering. It would seem strange that adding new plugs
- I didn't gap the plugs.
Next steps :
- Look for any wires knocked loose or hoses disconnected.
- Pull the error codes (check engine light is on cuz, it's not running)
- Check Vacuum and diagram and hoses.
- Check ignition system wires.
- Check fuel pressure.
- Check Cylinder Compression.
Ultimately I'm trying to tune it up (and fix misfire) anyway, not just change the plugs, so doing more diagnosis is okay. It's also not my primary car. I haven't worked on cars in a while so I'm a little rusty and also needing to get necessary tools to complete the tasks. But it's fun I hope I can get this car running well again soon.
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I have a very well maintained 2005 honda odyssey with 150,000 miles on it. It typically gets 22 m.p.g. It started using an unusual amount of gas - was getting 12 m.p.g. Took it to the mechanic and turned out the gas pump was cracked. We replaced the gas pump and the gas line, and it was getting 14 m.p.g. Took it to another mechanic, and he said that the spark plugs were the problem as they were not official Honda spark plugs (we replaced them at around 110,000 miles). So we installed the official Honda spark plugs, but still no good. I have visited several mechanics and no one seems to know.
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Yesterday I decided to tune up my 2003 5.4 for the 1st time at 82k miles. I replaced all 8 coils with MSD coils & motorcraft plugs. After doing so I went to turn over the ignition & got 1 single click, motor wouldn't even turn over. Battery is 3 months. Truck ran just fine prior to tune up other than the slight misfire I was starting to get.
When I was working on the passenger side I did disconnect the big bracket that had the multiple wire harness on the fire wall underneath the starter solenoid to gain access to the rear plug/coil. Where to start troubleshooting? I checked the fuses under the hood & dash but nothing looked blown.
On a side note I remember when I was putting everything away I tried to lock the truck with the Ford factory transmitter & it wouldn't lock?! I had to open the door & press the power lock button to lock the doors.
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I replaced the glow plugs and gpr and the truck won't start. I'm also having to replace the water fuel separator. What is going on? 1999 F250 7.3l ....
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I have an 1999 f150 4.2l only 82,000 original miles.i have had truck since new .i just replaced the spark plugs for the first time.i used autolite plat. I also changed fuel filter the truck started to run like crap now shaking and sorta like missing.i pulled the plugs again rechecked the gp reinstalled them installed new wires still runs like crap.went out bought new motorcraft plat. plugs gapped at .054 still runs like crap..so i checked the gap on original plus that have been i the truck since new the gap on them are .074-.075. should i try and gapp the new ones to this the truck ran like a dream with the original plugs at this gap????
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I've tried everything I can think of and it still runs sluggish.
1. Had dealer change plugs
2. Changed Cop's
3. Cleaned MAF sensor
The 5.4L has slight miss and doesn't respond well at all when trying to pass or going uphills.
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I have a 2000 Jetta 2.8 VR6 (the 6-cyl) with 128k miles and I have oil on my spark plugs, only on one bank of the motor (the bank closest to the bumper, if that makes any difference). I am aware that it is most likely a leaking or worn out valve cover gasket, and I have a replacement and am prepared to replace it. What I need to know, and I can't find this exact part anywhere, is do I also need to replace the spark plug tube seals??? The gasket I ordered did not come with any tube seals, I can't find this part on any auto parts website at all, nor have I been able to locate anything useful on this, or any other, website. I know the 1.8 has plug tube seals, and they come with the gasket, but does the 2.8 also require tube seals? I imagine it would, but I just don't know.
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I am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
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Mine has a 4.0 V6, the freeze plugs are leaking coolant, the guy at the shop said it will require pulling the engine to replace them. Is there an easy ( less expensive ) fix ? I was told I could use block sealer, is that an option? She has appox.160,000 miles...
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Nissan altima gle (2000) and for the past 3 weeks it has not gone over 55. The car was running ok before but was idling rough. A mechanic replaced the intake manifold gasket, the MAF sensor and the fan sensor. I decided to change my spark plugs when I noticed the idling was getting worse. The spark plugs had oil on them and now a month after the new ones are burned (like ashy tip, black thread) and dripping oil again. I think is the oil not letting my car accelerate in the highway. I considered changing the valve gasket, cables and cap for the spark plug. A mechanic told me not to bother because the motor is a lost. Is he right?
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The other day I was under my truck and noticed electrical plugs behind the front splash guards. What these might be for? I have a 00 F250 superduty XL model with the 5.4.
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I have a 2007 Accent with 119K on it.
I wanted to replace the water pump and I was wondering if this can be replaced without removing the timing belt or the lower timing belt cover?
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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My pickup is giving me trouble, replaced fuel pumpand filter, flashed computer, cam sensor seems to be fine...truck will run one day then will not start on another....1500.GMC year 2000.....5.3 litre motor auto trans 4x4... Thinking on replacing computer as a last ditch effort..when we hook the computer analyzer it shows no problems...
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