Accent LC (2000-05) :: Rear Wheel Wiggling Left / Right
Aug 10, 2015
I have been driving a 2000 accent with 146k miles on it, and while driving home I thought I had a flat tire. Get out, tires look fine, so I give one (passenger side rear) a light kick with my toe, and it moves. I can wiggle it about 1/4 inch of play, and when lifted on a jack, the wheel rotates just fine so I don't know if its a bearing issue, the shock also turns with the wheel, left/right. The driver side rear doesn't do this so I decided to park it and not drive. What it is?
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Very annoying noise I have on the rear left wheel of my 2001 Hyundai accent. About a year ago I noticed a rhythmic noise coming from the rear left wheel of my car. I figured the car had done around 130K kms and was probably needing new bearing assemblies. This didn't fix the noise. So I thought maybe it was the struts or the wheels. Not either of those.. changed the struts and got the wheels balanced.
I changed the rear brakes shoes.. didn't work. So a few months went by and I figured I would try and get the drums machined. So I got them skimmed slightly but this did nothing. Finally I decided to that maybe the bearing was dodgy so I put a new on... and you guessed it.. The noise is still there.
The noise is always present whether I am braking or not. As I speed up the noise is more prevalent. Basically the noise is related to the rotation of the wheel. My next plan of attack is to put new brake shoes on with new brake drums. I don't know what else I can try.
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I'm getting a pulsing. High-pitch squeak from what sounds like the left/front wheel when making left turns and occasionally driving straight at low speeds after a left turn, usually while NOT applying the brakes. In fact, applying the brakes firmly stops the sound until I release the pedal. After that, sometimes it comes back immediately and sometimes not.
Two weeks ago I replaced the R/F cv axle and the sway bar link. Harder job than it should have been because I had a heck of a time getting the lower ball joint bolt free.
This past weekend, I replaced both front rotors because I was certain that one was warped since I was getting a very loud pulsing squeal only when braking. I also have had a tendency to over torque the lug nuts which I had read can cause warped rotors. I now use a torque wrench for that.
I've made sure that the rotor shield isn't touching anything and checked the pads for damage and unusual wear. Pads are at about 75%.
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I recently parked my 2001 Accent for the past year and now the rear passenger side wheel won't move. I'm assuming it has seized. I am trying to open the drum for the rear wheel but am not really sure how. The wheel is removed so is the Bolt locking the drum in place. Should it now just pull off? I have a read that it is possible the emergency break is whats causing it to seize up. How does one manually removing the parking break lock ?
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I had new tyres put on my 2002 Accent 1.5 CDX a few weeks ago, they are 175/70 R 13 and i have Genuine Hyundai Alloy wheels. Over the past few days, Ive noticed a bad wobble that i can feel through the steering wheel, but seems to come from the rear of the car, although it could come from the front, as the car seems to wander around on the road, but going along at 50 mph and taking my hand off the wheel for a second or two it doesn't pull either way, you can just see the steering wheel visible moving from left to right and back again!!!!!
I changed the back wheels to the front and vice versa, and the problem went away, for 24 hours and came back again!!!! This wobble is getting worse, I've had the wheels balanced, rims seem ok, suspension checked, etc and all fine. The only thing I am not sure about is worn track rod ends, and I am not sure what to look for this wobble is at its worse between 30 and 55 mph, but it can be felt on any road (from starting off) and at any speed.
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I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 FWD. about 138, xxx miles
My left rear tire/wheel has free - play (clicking movement) when grabbed at ONLY the 3 o'clock position and push/pulled back and forth (no free-play at 12-6 direction) in the air.
I had grinding noise from rear left side wheel when turning right couple weeks ago. After replacing wheel hub bearing assembly, the noise is gone. But still remains the movement ONLY at 3 o'clock. I replaced stabilizer bar links in both rear sides. This link doesn't look like the reason of free-play (clicking movement).
Also, I tested (push or pull) after switching the other side(right) wheel, it still had clicking movement at 3 pm. Therefore, it is not a wheel problem itself, I guess.
And I took off the wheel and fasten the lug nuts onto the rotor itself (so, without wheel in this case), then push/pull the rotor at 3 pm, but this time no movement in any directions. @@;; weird.. ONLY, I can feel the clicking movement at 3pm on the Wheel (or tire) even after rotating wheel, exactly in same spot (3 pm) movement~!!!! What's this case??
All 4 wheels aligned recently after got new tires.
I scrutinized inside wheel while pushing/pulling back and forth. But I cannot figure out which one is problem.
1. Knuckle.
2. Lower control arm ( or Rear rear control arm, not typo) which has a Ball joint and a cam bolt the other side.
3. Rear front control arm
4. trailing arm.
5. stabilizer bar link. (new)
6. Wheel hub bearing assembly (new, double-checked the nuts and torques)
7. Rotor and pads (new, if I push the rotor itself then no wobble or clicking at all directions as desribed above)
Where should I direct my attention and/or what component(s) should I look at given the indications above?
When I pull/push the wheel at 3 o'clock, it feels like wiggling the whole part of lower knuckle where is the connection part between the part of 4 bolt (backside) of hub assembly and lower side of knuckle.
I heard that 12 and 6 is usually an indication of ball joint, and play 9 and 3 is usually in indication of steering components ( tie rods , steering shaft or rack itself ), and all around play is an indication of wheel bearing (usually accompanied with a growling noise ).
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My Driver side/Left side mirror started wiggling, and fell, hanging on by just the wires for the heating element. I snapped it back on twice now, and I noticed 2 small plastic clips broken.
It's a 2013, XLT, heated, drivers side mirror.
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Wife's 2004 Civic isn't pretty but usually runs like new. Over 200k and going strong.Yesterday she had trouble starting. Dash lights are bright. Battery is Interstate and under a year old. She wiggled the steering wheel and it started ok . Then it wouldn't later in the day. I tried moving the shifter (automatic). Tried moving the steering wheel. Nothing from the starter. Dash lights very bright. Let it sit overnight.Today the tow truck arrived. Started right up as if nothing was wrong. Ignition switch? Transmission sensor? Starter?
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is it just a 337 thing? but, the rear wheel on the left is poked out farther than the wheel on the right. I didn't measure it just yet but it looks as it's almost a 5mm difference. I didn't realize it until today when an old friend was inspecting my car.
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So my front left headlight is dim. from everything i have read online it is most likely a grounding issue.
My problem is trying to locate the issue. Where the front left headlight grounds to and What I need to do to fix it.
This is my first car and my mechanical knowledge is minimal.
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I have a 2001 Accent GL 1.6l automatic non ABS (original owner) with no real issues until last month when the left front brake started locking up. Sometimes within a mile sometimes after ten. The brakes go from normal pressure to hard as a rock unable to move the brake pedal even when I bleed off the booster. I've researched every site then proceeded with the following work.
Changed the front pads, rotors, calipers, rubber lines plus the back brake cylinders, rubber lines and master cylinder then bleed the system using a power bleeder... all to no avail. As a last resort I replaced the booster, still no change.
I've checked the brake pedal and the booster pushrod adjustment. Eventually took it to my mechanic. After two days he told me he was stumped as well.
The only thing left is the rear brake proportioning valves on the left side of the brake cylinder. Can't figure out how they would be causing the left front brake to lock up if indeed that is the problem.
There are no kinks in the lines, no air in the lines, bleed almost a gallon of brake fluid through the entire system and still zip... Frustration and anger has left me for despair and total confusion and a 700+ dollar hole in my pocket.
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It seems that my left brake light is always on. I tried replacing the bulb, but that didn't do anything. I also had someone look at a switch underneath my break pedal.
I did had in the paste a problem with my trunk light, and got that resolved. Does any of those wires have anything to do with that light? What else it could be? Trunk light on dashboard
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I have a 2002 Accent that has recently started to sway side to side when I'm turning left. It almost feels like the back end is swaying but it's hard to tell. I've recently had the CV Boots replaced as they were torn but I don't think that's related at all.
I'm wondering if it could be the suspension. I've looked at all the wheel housing and checked the steering rod for any play but everything seems fine. If it could be the suspension how would I go about checking it.
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Turning my steering wheel left or right, especially when parked, there's a very noticeable creaking. This happens as well when I am going over bumps in a parking lot or somewhere at a low speed. The car itself turns fine, not sticking or power steering loss. So I am not quite sure whats going on here.. At 71k miles 2010.
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Where this buzzer is located? under the dash(where)? Mine doesn't seem to work anymore. I've drained my battery like 5 times already.
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Noticed a squeaking like noise coming from their from front drivers side wheel when turning left? Seems to only do it right after driving my car after it has been sitting for a bit. Can't make it in to Hyundai until next week, and I'm a little worried.
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I have a '09 SE Hatchback. A while ago the switch that tells the car the rear hatch is open stopped working. The trunk light no longer comes on and the factory alarm doesn't know when the hatch is open or closed. The switch and accessible wiring are fine. The lower left tail light and the left license plate light have also stopped working. Both bulbs are fine. This leads me to think that there is a break in the wiring harness somewhere between the front foot well and the rear of the car.
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I've got a 2001 Accent 1.5 liter 5 speed. Car has 105,500 miles. Whenever the car is running, it makes an irritating tapping noise somewhere on the left side of the motor. I've been told that it sounds like the timing belt, but the car runs perfectly, doesn't miss. The tapping used to go away 30 seconds to a minute after starting it, but now it's constantly there and slightly louder. The noise goes with the rpms. When the rpms are higher, the tapping is faster. I've also noticed some loss of power. I recently added some octane booster to the fuel but noticed no difference. My uncle told me it may be a main bearing starting to go out but the tapping does not have a metallic tone of any.
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2004 accent manual shift. car drives well, but when i step on the gas, it sudenly pulls to left. when i release gas, it goes back to straight driving. motor mount??? anything else come to mind??
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Need to identify what could this be? It used to come and go, now it's constantly here. I took it to the dealer but there was a 3 hour waiting time, so I might have to go another time. If you do know what is it, could I fix it myself? While driving there's no squeaking, but I can hear a metal on metal sound while on bad roads, the type of noise you would expect from a bad tie rod or something like that, on good roads it's fine. The noise you can hear on the video happens when I push the car side to side. [URL] .....
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Overall my B6 has very little brake dust. But I constantly found my rear left wheel has more brake dust than the other 3 wheels, though it's still less than the cleanest wheel on my friends saab 93. Currently the car has 4,000 miles on it. I'm wondering if the brake pad would correct itself over time? Anyway, I'm going to have it checked in 5,000 mile service, just like to know if this is a common problem.
Pic for clicks .....
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