I must replace my driver's side rear brake drum cylinder but I am unable to fit any socket or wrench on the backing plate bolts holding on the brake cylinder. They are rusted and never been touched I think; how does one remove the bolts holding on the brake cylinder without stripping them? There is basically no room for leverage and the walls of a socket are too thick.
View 3 RepliesSo I'm in the process of doing a rear brake job on a 2002 Pontiac Sunfire. Drum brakes. And (shocker - especially for a northern car that never had the job done before) the drum won't come off. I've spent two days with a propane blowtorch, PB Blaster, and a 3lb hammer. No dice. It won't even budge.
So now I'm thinking about taking an angle grinder to the drum and just replacing both (probably necessary, as I'm sure it's in terrible shape). I'm really at my last option here.
The star wheel is not bound up. I can adjust in manually and it clicks properly when tightening. The adjuster arm is touching the right area of the star wheel. What happens is, I manually adjust the rear brakes until they are close to perfect. I back up hoping to get them to self-adjust to the proper spec, and instead of tightening, they seem to loosen a few clicks and stay that way, leaving me with "half way" rear brakes. Meaning, it would take me a few hundred feat to come to any meaningful stop when pulling the E-brake.
I can also feel the difference between the rear brakes functioning, and not, despite their secondary role, and these are not functioning properly. Right after a drive, I can jack the car up and the wheel spins freely again as if I never adjusted them in the first place. They don't unadjust themselves to the point of being completely ineffective, just to the point of not being nearly how they should. I'd expect to be able to lock them up by pulling the e-brake, and it isn't even close.
When I apply the e-brake, I can hear them "grinding", sort of touching but not really. Everything seems to be installed correctly.
I bought my accent in 2006 and it came with rear drum brakes and I want to know if it is possible to switch to rear disc brakes. I know that newer accents have all disc brakes so maybe it wont be that hard, but what do I need? I dont have abs. I asked the dealer like a year ago and they told me they wont do it. I have seen this conversion before in other cars that did not have rear disc brakes in newer versions either.
View 91 RepliesAlright, after taking everything off and replacing all the joints/bushings, I am left with the control arm. (it hasn't been easy either)
I am at the control arm (Passenger side) and i got the rear bushing loose. I managed to brake the front one loose, with a lot of force, but it spins. I see in HMA that it has a bolt, or so it appears, but how on earth do you get to that?
I had a tire blow out, two nuts snapped off, custom rims came with car when I brought it, 12mm internal hex. I suspect they were over torqued.
I loosened self adjuster star all the way, and the drum still wont come off, I have tried heat with propane torch where hub meets drum.
And no parking brake isn't on. 2005 Camry right rear drum.
This is my first time working on drum breaks, all the repair manuals and videos don't make it look too bad. I did have a question about the parts required to replace the rear breaks.
Assuming these breaks are very worn. What parts would need to be replaced in a typical break job.
The pics below are what I'm planning on buying:
Shoes
Rotors
Drum
Hardware Kit
Is there anything that I'm missing?
I recently attempted to replace the rear brake shoes on my 01 Accord. Everything seemed to go reasonably well, but now when the brakes heat up I get a loud knocking and vibration while driving that goes away while braking. I popped the drum off last night and backed off the adjustment as the drum was hanging on one spot during rotation. This seemed to make it worse (though some minimal did stop suddenly in front of me, so I had to emergency brake and heat everything up). It has the original drums.
As a second, related question, there was no problem on my little test drive last night so I drove to work this morning. About 3/4 of the way there was when this started, and kept getting progressively worse. Understanding that you don't know exactly what the problem is, do you think it's reasonably ok to drive home (about 10 miles and I can stay off the highway)?
Knocking and vibration from rear passenger drum brake after replacing brake shoes, only while driving.
Car: 2001 Accord LX 4 cylinder
Took the drum off, backed down the tension on the adjustment screws. Drives and feels fine until the brakes heat up.
Well, I have a 2011 Ford Escape. Recently, the car has been making two noises coming from the right rear drum brake.
I can only hear it going 5 mph or lower, possibly from road noise.
First noise: It sounds like someone is rubbing wet rubber on a wood floor (weird analogy). Not a grinding sound like a bad pad, but more of a hard rubbing sound.
Second noise: Whenever the car is at 5 MPH or lower and starts to decelerate, there is a high-pitched very small whistle coming from the same area. The pitch decreases as the speed does.
Got the brakes checked, no issues.
Don't seem to have an adjustment hole on my 2002 Tundra SR5, 2W drive. These are self adjusting brakes and, if they are, how to I go about adjusting them....simply backing up and engaging the brakes?
View 4 RepliesWorthless Chilton's manual went in trash. I don't have a working PC and Im unable to find a diagram for the rear brake drum of my 2005 camry.
View 3 RepliesGetting ready to perform the clean and adjust rear brakes maintenance. I took a digital caliper and measured my rear drum brake thickness. The thinnest measurement I got was 3.19 mm.
I looked up the specifications and rear shoes brand-new are 4 mm. Minimum thickness allowed is 1mm.
I have 95K on my 2008. Since my brake shoes are showing close to brand-new measurements does this mean my rear drums are out of adjustment or is this normal?
XT1080 ?
I have a 2000 CR-V with rear drum brakes that make quite a bit of noise. When I press the brake pedal, they make a noise like the shoes are grinding on something other than the drum itself. Also, when I press the pedal at the right amount of pressure at the right speed, I get a loud high pitched squeal as if there's a metal tab rubbing on the drum. I did this brake job with my dad about 6,000 miles ago (154xxx miles now) including the front pads. We did everything right and bled the brakes VERY thoroughly.
We used the same drums as before (however, we replaced the front disc rotors) and everything is how it should be. I even adjusted the shoes' pressure on the drum a bit to see if it would stop. Also, the squeal noise seems to be worse when I haven't driven the car for about 2 hours or in the morning when it's colder and the brakes haven't been used in several hours. What's causing these noises?
I replaced a brake cylinder on my 2006 Focus rear drum brake. Now, I need to bleed the brake fluid, but I can't find a wrench to fit the nut.10mm is too small and 11mm is too big. What's going on? Could it be the rusted nut has grown in size enough to make the 10mm wrench too small? Or, is the nut standard?I know the drum bleeder nut I know the front disc brake bleeder brake is 10mm. So, I am thinking the rear should be metric, but since it's drum, I am not so sure. What the size is?
View 13 RepliesThe squeak is most pronounced when the brake pedal is released, but it still makes a quieter squeak when the pedal is depressed. I can't tell which side it is coming from; my guess is the middle of the rear or the left rear. I can't tell because I have to be in the car to release the brake (I guess I could tie a string around a brick and pull on it when I'm by the rear wheels). I should mention that all three of the belts are due for a change. Which part is causing the brake system squeak? The brakes work; replacing the squeaking part or parts is going to be lower on the project queue than the CD player/radio errors and replacing the belts, pulleys, etc. in the engine compartment (I've posted elsewhere on the forums about those issues).
View 5 RepliesRecently purchased my first Ford truck, a 97 F250 w/7.3L diesel. I discovered the passenger rear drum brake was full of oil. Cleaned it up and put it back together to do some research.
I see how the hub comes off and there are two bearings in it an an oil seal. The bearings are lubed in wheel bearing grease. Does differential oil circulate through the bearings too?
It doesn't look like a difficult job. Do the seals go bad often or could this be due to a clogged differential vent? Truck has only 100k miles. Any gotchas I should be aware of?
I bought my 2000 F-250 CCSB a while ago and it came with 2 keys - one for the ignition, and one for the doors/tailgate - may not seem like a big deal, but it annoys me to no end.
From my understanding, the truck had previously been stolen and had the driver's side lock punched, and then something happened to the ignition lock to where it had to be replaced - hence the different key. I finally got around to replacing all the locks so that I'd only have one key. I started with the doors, then moved to the ignition (which I thought would be the easy part). I've replaced several cylinders before and I know it should be simple, but for the life of me I can't get the cylinder out!
I push the detent, turn the key to run, wiggle and pull.... nothing. I can feel the detent push in, and the cylinder will move a little, but it won't come out. I'm not sure if this is something that just happens sometimes and there's a fix for it, or if I'm in a unique circumstance and my column was somehow damaged during the theft and that's what's causing it.
How to remove the rear view mirror? I've tried pulling, turning and twisting without any success. I have become spoiled by the self dimming mirrors in my other rides and want to add one with the Home Link buttons.
View 6 RepliesHow the heck do you reconnect the brake drum end of the E-Brake ?
There seems to be not enough play in the cable to be able to hook it.
I have a 2004 Accent Gt with only 43k miles on it and I am getting a cylinder 4 misfire when I refuel. I have replaced the 4 spark plugs. The original code was random multiple and now it is just cylinder 4. I tried to swap 2 spark plugs to see if maybe there was something wrong with the plug but the misfire did not move to another cylinder. I've read about maybe swapping fuel injectors, where I can find directions on how to do that?
View 8 RepliesI have an 02 Accent 1.5L that has a misfire on #3. I have replaced the head gasket, valve cover and gasket, intake gasket, timing belt, yes it was top dead center, MAF, Charcoal canister sensor, MAF, plugs, wires, coil pack, injector #3, and the compression in #3 is 130. What else to check. No other codes.
View 3 Replies