Accent LC (2000-05) :: Power Steering Lost After Cold Start / Came Back After Car Gets Warm
Oct 22, 2012
This problem has plagued me for a while(since last year). When I start the car in the morning, there's a brief period when the power steering is totally gone. When the car is thoroughly warmed up(after 2 minutes of driving), the power steering is back and there will be no problem. Wondering what could that be. The power steering fluid level is normal.
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Awful belt noise that erupts during cold starts. I realize that this usually means a replaced belt. I want to know how to go along diagnosing which belt and then how to replace it. Here's the symptoms:
1. Awful belt screech when turned on, goes away within 20 seconds
2. Belt noise comes back when turning the wheel to back out of a right driveway
3. The STEERING WHEEL feels like it has no power steering WHILE the screeching is happening.
4. The headlights (when on) dim for about 3 seconds
5. All these symptoms happen when the temperature is below freezing and it's a cold start.
How is the belt screeching connected to the steering wheel being tough I turn?
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I just bought a 2000 f250 diesel truck and am having problems with the ac. When I first turn on the ac it blows very cold and works perfectly but after about 5 or 10 minutes it will start blowing warm and slightly humid air for probably around 5 or 10 minutes and then suddenly the very cold air will come back. This cycle repeats over and over again and I'm not sure what is wrong.
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I have a 2005 hyundai accent (manual) with 140k miles on it that just broke down on me. I was driving to work and after about 10 minutes of driving I go to pull off my exit and I feel it for the first time, my rpms stay steady but the power drops for a few seconds before returning to normal. About 5 minutes later I'm putting around the parking lot and it's having trouble accelerating and reving to the point that it won't really move. I push it to a spot and let it sit for 5-10 minutes before starting it back up in an attempt to get it to a gas station to try and add fuel (quick Google search makes it sound like a fuel pump and the tank is pretty low). It accelerated in fits and makes it about two blocks feeling anemic. Oil changed about 2k miles ago (but is below the L mark on the dip stick when I just checked. I never see leaks though)
The engine ran and idled beautifully before this. No CELs.
Replaced the fuel pump. However, when I opened the port to the fuel pump assembly, there was almost no gas. So I think I might have just run out of gas and the problem was with the gauge.
Now it won't start with ~4 gallons in the tank.
I know the pump functions because I've pulled off the output tube at the pump and it'll spit out gas.
I know there's gas in the fuel rail because I pulled off the input hose.
I pulled off one spark plug to check for spark and it appeared to work.
I checked the resistance at 3/4 of the fuel injectors and they were within spec.
I've checked all the fuses.
I don't get any codes from OBD scanner I borrowed from Autozone (I've disconnected the battery a couple of times though)
I don't have a way to hook up the fuel pressure gauge I borrowed form Autozone because I don't have the adaptor.
Minus the clutch, I've done basically all maintenance myself, although certainly not a great mechanic.
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I have a 2000 f350. Lost power whole driving and won't start back up. I have checked all my fuses and relays several times. Have no power to the fuel pump. Tried running a hot wire straight to the pump and still nothing.checked my emergency cur off switch and there is no power there. Also my WTS light isn't coming on now. Tried checking the heater bowl and no power there.
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But it will start later in the day or when the temp is above -15C (5F) the car has a one year old battery, it has synthetic oil. Should we change the spark plugs? the car is 10 year old and they have never been changed.
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So my wife drove her car all day yesterday, everything fine. This morning went to start and it wouldn't. It turns over fine just not firing.
Now during the summer I had replace the fuel pump/filter before discovering that was not the issue.
I know you are already thinking CPS!.. I replaced that over the summer.
I have not checked the spark yet, kinda hard to do that one by yourself.
Beyond spark I am not sure what else could be wrong, especially because it was running fine last night. Is it common for accents to have issues in 20 degree weather?
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My 01 accent's engine makes a clattering sound(sounds a little bit like a diesel engine) when it's first started in the morning. After warming up (in about 20 seconds or so) the sound disappears. My oil level is normal(last oil change about 4k miles ago with full synthetic oil. I normally change oil at 5k intervals with full synthetic), timing belt changed about 1 year(20k miles) ago. Should I be worried?
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When engine is cold it starts fine, when hot from driving (e.g. the engine's temperature display's needle is in the middle) i cannot start it unless i try 3-4 LONG keys. What can it be? Where should i start?
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2002 Accent GS, automatic 1.6L engine ... Have a leak in the Power Steering system and I was wondering if it was safe to take the Power steering pump belt off just to get to my mechanic (who is about 18 miles (27 Km) away). I would rather not get towed, but I don't want to do any damage either. I am not all that mechanically capable but think I can get the belt off myself.
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I have a 2002 Accent 1.6L and when I turn the wheels all the way too the right or all the way to the left the pulley stops spinning. Could this be that the pump is going bad or something else?
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My '02 Hyundai accent's power steering pulley makes noise when the car is turned on all the way. That noise doesn't go away until I shut off the car. It is not the same noise as a belt slipping as I have that problem before and had fixed it by tightening the alternator adjuster bolt.
When I spray a little bit of WD-40 on the P/S pulley bolt(bolt and split washer) the noise goes away. However, it comes back the next day, since I am guessing the WD-40 has been dried away. So, should I replace the pulley to fix this issue or is it something else?
Pic of Bolt (Its yellow and black in the pic) ....
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Where to find a nice, simple step by step instructional for tightening power steering belts for a 2003 hyundai accent?
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My car is a 2002 Accent. So last weekend I replaced my timing belt and my 3 other belts. Before I did this the belts were not squeaking and I was not having any issues with my power steering. I started my car up and the power steering pump was making lots of noise, the power steering reservoir was still full. I was told it's probably the power steering pump and that I would need a new one. So I got a new one, put it on and still the same thing. I looked online and saw that it may be an air bubble in the line so I removed the cap on the reservoir and, with the car turned off and the front wheels off the ground, cranked the wheels lock to lock about 20 times. I started the car and it still makes noise. This morning the power steering felt like it was lagging as I was backing out of my driveway and the squeaking happens when I am idling and gets louder and worse up to about 2000 rpm then stops, which it has been doing since I replaced the belts. I am not sure what else to do, did I mess up the new pump by driving and not bleeding the air out?
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The steering on our 02 Accent has been becoming more and more difficult. The belt on the AC compressor snapped off recently. Could this missing belt be causing a problem with the power steering belt? The power steering belt is now making a squeaking noise.
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I have the opportunity of getting i believe a 2004 accent gt for next to nothing. It recently lost reverse and all gears aside from first. The codes it is triggering are p0734 p0732 and p0733. Prior to throwing the codes it moved back but wouldn't budge forward. With codes no reverse or any gear higher than first. Car has 160k miles I am pretty mechanical. Should I run from this "cheap" "gas saver" or pick it up? With all 3 codes could it be just that sensor?
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I have an 03 Accent. The all metal high pressure power steering line had a leak. So I bought a new one for around 70 dollars from Hyundai. This part has a curved shape and fits around the radiator. The old one was difficult to get off, but the new one is proving impossible to get on. I cant get it into place.
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My 2003 made a sharp mechanical noise one day, next thing I knew it lost the ability to shift out of 2nd gear....Now, it can still shift into 2nd gear when cold, but only after holding rpm for a bit and then suddenly jerking into 2nd gear. Once it's warmed up for a few minutes though, after dropping out of 2nd gear, that's it! Then it's stuck in 1st gear the rest of the time. Reverse doesn't work anymore at any time, and it gave me code P0732 to P0734 which should be gears 2 - 4. Is it possible that not being to get out of 1st means 2nd gear is broken, but the other 2 are okay and it just can't get shift past 2nd? Or might all 3 have problems after all?
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Sometimes I loose the idle speed and the engine stops when I stop the car but it could be started again with full throttle it doesn't happen always it happens from time to time > I changed the MAP, IS actuator and TPS .The fuel pump and filter is new .In rare cases engine stops during driving. How about flash programming the ECU
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent GL. I have had the alternator, sensor and battery replaced recently. Well brakes etc too.
My problem is now the car will not start. It was fine this morning and later in the day I went out to start it to move it and there is NO power to it at all.
When I put the key in to start it, no power, no lights etc..
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My accent had been sitting neglected for a few years. I decided as a side project I would get it in working order before winter and do more to it next spring. The car had a rough idle when started but I had ran it nearly all day a few months ago.
Last week I changed spark plugs and a few other minor things. The undercarriage was wire wheeled and coated with POR 15. This weekend I added gas (with gas cans, car is off road currently) and added techron fuel treatment. The car took two tries to start (always two) so I changed the fuel filter and that problem went away. However, I noticed that when the car idles it begins stalling when it reaches temperature. Thermostat says car is not overheating.
After 15 or so minutes of idling the car just cuts out and SOMETIMES will start but usually it just cranks and cranks. If I wait a bit it will start up again but will die more quickly and this will keep happening until I let it cool. I am also noticing a fairly loud clicking sound from behind fuel injectors. Not the injectors themselves but somewhere behind the fuel injector rail. I am unsure if this had been going on previously or if it is a symptom of the stalling problem.
I cleaned throttle body, IAC, crank and cam sensors though no error codes to speak of. Rough idle takes a few minutes as at first the engine is smooth.
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