Accent LC (2000-05) :: Power Windows Failure - Window Stuck In Down Position
Sep 11, 2008
In May the driver's side window mechanism (motor + "window regulator" are the primary parts) self destructed on my 2002 Hyundai Accent and left the window stuck in the down position. Since the car only has 35,000 miles on it, and since I live in a cold climate and didn't lower the windows much, I concluded it was a manufacturing failure.
So rather than spend about $700 to have the mechanism redone, I elected for 1/10 as much money to have a body shop remove the mechanism and wedge up the window in the up position permanently with blocks and screws. Since I was told by a couple of mechanics that this type of failure occurs in other vehicles, I was still sticking by Hyundai and planning to buy another one 3-5 years from now.
But I have been forced to change my plans. Today (in September) the passenger side window mechanism self destructed and, once again, left the window stuck in the down position! Naturally, I am going to have the same solution applied to the passenger side window now. As a result of this (and an unbelievable brake problem that I don't have time to get into) I have been forced to change my mind and can no longer support Hyundai.
View 10 Replies
Advertisement
I've got an '03 Accent 1.6 in the family. December 2011 I replaced the crank position sensor and it cured the no start problem. Got it from A/Zone. It lasted 2 years and 8 months. Then, the same thing happened again in August 2014 only this time the car stopped running while on the road and I had it towed to a local garage. They installed a "Standard" & was back on the road again when it stopped running again a week ago. Had it towed to my house this time and read the code. P0336 CPS again! That sensor lasted only 4 months. The garage came & replaced the sensor & it's back on the road...for now. Do these cars only play nice with Hyundai CPS's or should I be looking for an underlying issue?
View 7 Replies
I've got a 2001 Toyota Solara, and the driver's side power window has stopped working (in the "up") position. Other windows and powered items in the car work, and there's no sound when I hit the electric switch. From a rough inspection of the apparatus, I don't think that the regulator itself is shot. I'd love to repair this myself...but for this car it will be way more expensive to buy the regulator/motor unit than just the motor online.
View 6 Replies
My 2004 Accent is stuck in the "lock" position in the ignition, and the wheel is locked and barely turns in either direction. I know this is supposed to be an anti-theft feature and I've tried all of the solutions listed here...
Turning the wheel hard and soft in either direction while holding the brake all the way down and trying to turn the key. Putting the car in neutral and then park and trying the above Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and trying the above Jacking the car up on one side to release the tension on the pin.
My question is can I remove the spring at the bottom of the locking pin by drilling a hole in the center of the plate? I've seen a few youtube videos of this done on BMW's. It will cost me $500 minimum to replace the ignition or steering column based on quotes I got.
View 10 Replies
Got it on the motorway to find the passenger window had dropped slightly when shutting the door.. And on pressing the electric window buttons, the passenger and two rear windows aren't working! The driver window opens and closes perfectly fine. Looks as though the window lock button is stuck on, but pressing the button makes no difference as though there's a loose connection.
Might this be a fuse problem with the locking mechanism, or what may have caused this and if I can fix it easily, or whether it does need to go back to the dealer.
View 2 Replies
My left rear window is stuck in the down position. I thought the motor was burnt out because it was very hot, so I got a new one and replaced it and the symptom was the same. So I plugged the old "bad" motor into the harness and when I turn the key on it starts spinning, which would explain why it was so hot when I took it out. I'm guessing I've got a bad relay or something but where do I look now?
View 8 Replies
2002 accent with the driver window stuck down. I have the door panel off and when i look up I see the pulley with the cable balled up and two cable ends hooked to nothing.
View 3 Replies
2011 Santa Fe limited fwd
Bought as 6 month old demo in 2011 and from day one rear driver side power window has gone up and down slower than other three windows. Going up decidedly worse. My fault for not having it looked at while still under warranty.
Behavior the same using either driver's switch or the rear switch.
Well, now it occasionally gets stuck in down position. Neither switch works. But, if I press switch and pull up on window I can eventually get it to close.
I looked at other posts and saw no clear solution for this intermittent problem.
View 2 Replies
Both passenger and driver front windows get stuck in down position. What do you think the problem is and can it be repaired by me?
View 2 Replies
After changing the battery on the 2005 Accent, problem now is: no power windows, no radio, no air/heating fan, battery light always stays on. Checked all fuses in box besides driver seat an all OK. Rest of electrical seems ok ( int. and ext. lights, lighter, etc...). I would really really like not to have to bring it to the dealer.
View 4 Replies
My darling wife just called me and told me that one of the people that she was transporting in our egg this afternoon pulled up the passenger-side rear sunshade and hooked it on the clips at the top. Then apparently he just rested his arm on the ledge and they heard some sort of "pop" noise. Then, when he unhooked the sun shade to retract it back into the door it wouldn't pull back and retract so it's stuck in the "open" position. I'm guessing it's a simple matter of popping off the door skin and resetting something that's popped/snapped off.
View 5 Replies
2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
View 1 Replies
Well my problem isn't a new one. My bonny - will stall at about anytime and anywhere - and yes various power ckts will also fail at the same time. I have cleaned every power connection that I can find. Several threads here have listed answers to this problem - One guy rebuilt his starter - another person found the problem in some wiring on the drivers side of the car in some shorted wiring. Some ignition modules and or coils have been replaced (do these drop out the power rail when they fail????) Interestingly enough I did not find any threads that indicated that cleaning power connections fixed the problem - Also, no one indicated that replacing their alternator fixed the problem. One guy did replace a battery with a leaky cell - he also replaced a neutral safety switch. I don't know which of those actions actually solved his problem. Since so many people have had a stalling problem and a power accessory problem at the same time (especially on 1994 and 95 models)- I thought it would be a good place to start a sort of clearinghouse where a collection of potential repairs could be cataloged. So if you have had a stalling and power accessory problem at the same time.
View 14 Replies
I have a Pontiac Montana 1999 with power window problem. After troubleshooting I found that the switch was defective on the up position. I was told that this problem is common on this type of car.
View 8 Replies
I was reading the car's settings using the Torque app and an OBDII bluetooth dongle and I realize that at WOT the ECU is only seeing 85% from the TPS. O know on some vehicles there is an actual procedure like turn the key forward, hold the gas pedal at WOT, turn the key all the way forward w/o starting while pulling the turn signal stalk down or something crazy like that to force the ECU to re-measure while you keep the gas pedal pinned to the floor. I know on other cars when it doesn't read a full 100% you miss out on a small amount of power and MPG so if it's an easy procedure with these cars I'd like to reset it. I did some searching but mostly came up with info on how to replace it and a few related subjects but noting on this specifically for this car specifically.
View 2 Replies
So my little car.....driving home from jersey (about an hour and a half) and within the last 2 miles I notice the car just shut off. Not any electronics just the motor. Pulled over and tried to start it an it just cranks prolly no fuel or spark. happened to have my obdII scanner with me. It says camshaft position sensor(po342). Only code in there. Sounds simple enough. Got a new one and put it in. Just cranks. Plugs and wires were done about 3 months ago and I drive about 40 miles a day 5 days a week. I did the timing belt last spring so I opened that back up to make sure the timing hadn't jumped for some stupid reason. It's perfect. Noticed now after doing all of that there is some (a little) oil in the throttle body. I know about blow by and don't think I should have that much at 113k but who knows.
View 2 Replies
My 1.5L 2000 Hyundai accent is reading p0342 code.(cmp sensor circuit low Input). I have changed out the sensor from a parts car and it's still reading this code. I've read it could be timing or an issue with the starter wiring.
View 3 Replies
My daughter spun her timing belt on her 1.5L accent. when she did, she bent the valve rods and all were replaced. The original code that was thrown was the one in the title. Ordered a new camshaft positioning sensor for the car. Looks a little different than factory. He installed it, and car is still pulling code. He accidentally threw away the original before confirmed that the problem was solved. Why the code is still pulling?? I can tell you this, I can clear the code, start the car and drive without code coming back on. As soon as I shut the vehicle off and restart, engine light comes on. Car runs fine. Had a complete valve job, new timing belt and water pump installed.
View 2 Replies
I have a 95 Chevy G30 van. The power windows, power locks, and power mirrors stopped working when I installed an electronic trailer brake controller. I disconnected the controller. The circuit breakers are fine. Where do I look next?
View 2 Replies
So the two windows on the passenger side have fallen and can't get up. These regulators you gotta buy to fix the problem cost a ton, and just as much to have installed. Why on earth can you not buy the little plastic brackets to fix the problem instead of the whole regulator? If there IS a way to buy these brackets, it would be keen to know...
View 1 Replies
I have an accent 2001 saloon which I bought a few months back. Turned out to be a real bargain but the door locking feature is really irritating. It will work 2-3 times in a row then stop for the rest of the day. The next day it works first thing but may not work again for several hours. Then 2-3 times in a row .. yeah you guessed it - the dreaded intermittent fault.
Now, the door handle inside the door has broken (plastic piece has snapped) so I am fitting a new one. Thought it might be a good idea, while I am at it, to have a look inside the door. I took out the whole door lock mechanism - see photo 1. Having found I could get it out, I put it back pending a bit of advice.
I presume that there is some sort of electric-powered actuator or solenoid or whatever, that locks all the doors from the drivers side. Is the piece I am talking about, the close up in photo 2?
If so, (or not) what is the likely fault here, and what can I do about it? I have put some WD 40 spray into the locks and eased them a bit. Otherwise not sure what to change/replace.
View 3 Replies
