Accent LC (2000-05) :: P0422 Code Pop Back Up After About 40 - 60 Miles Of Driving When Cleared
Oct 5, 2013
My 2000 Hyundai Accent Hatchback (manual) is tripping the code P0422 (Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)). If i clear the code it will pop back up after about 40-60 miles of driving. I hooked my OBDII sensor to it and look at the voltage output from the two O2 sensors and the front one oscillates between .2 to .7V and the downstream one does as well switching about at the rate. From my understanding the downstream O2 sensor should stay fairly steady or at least switch much slower than the upstream one. I get pretty good gas mileage, typ. ~30mpg. Luckily my state does not have emission testing. Is it actually the catalytic converter, the downstream O2 sensor or something else?
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Got this engine code error, how to proceed?
I have a '00 accent, just purchased a few days ago from a private party, when I bought it, I had a mechanic look it over, gave me the OK and said it passed inspection, no mechanical or obvious running problems with the car.
So I was driving around yesterday and the check engine light came on, took it to get the oil changed because I wasn't sure last time it was done, had the oil changed, light stayed on.
So I took it to auto zone to read the error code, was given this information. How to proceed?
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I have a 99 Tiburon 2.0 DOHC that I cant seem to get through emissions. The code, p0422 main catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 1 keeps popping up even after replacing the cat converter (twice) and replacing both 02 sensors. What else could be triggering this code and how to fix it?
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I bought the little car to get off my motorcycle and its done great. But, after a couple trips around town my check engine light came on, and I imiditely noticed a change in my idle and engine performance. Im assuming my engine changed the air/fuel ratio to account for the sensor indications. My initial code read came back with four codes which said something about spark, and O2 sensor, and emissions. I went ahead put new spark plugs, gaped them as well as replaced the first O2 sensor.
After that I reconnected my battery and sure enough no engine light and my idle felt even better than before. (by the way my old plugs looked normal) But shortly down the road the light came on again. My idle did become a little different but not like my first encounter with the engine light. My power too seems a bit degraded, as well as the engine's sound. As of right now I am only reading one code P0422, which I do not see in the manual. I read online that its probably my catalytic converter or my engine is running at an improper air/fuel ratio. I am praying that it is not my catalytic converter and just my engine computer throwing things off.
Other things which may serve as clues:
Slight valve cover gasket leak (I will change the gasket when I do my timing belt job along with other seal and probably the water pump)
When pumping gas I can get about 90 cents in at a time, now more like 40 cents since the Saudis lowered our gas prices. Assuming I've got some kind of venting problem.
Car has 107K manual shift.
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Which one is the ect? One is the ect and one is a switch for something?
Just gone done switching that POS plastic thermostat housing thing, both sensors were replaced not sure which one is throwing the code.
I have cleared the code and it keeps coming back.
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2009 V6 Auto. The car runs perfectly, the cel and traction lights have been on for a year. I bought a scangague that reads and resets them. The code returns within 10 minutes of driving after being cleared. The code refers to 'air bleed circuit'. Fuel economy is about the same as our other V6 Camry of the same model. Any clues?
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Had no problems until a month ago the car just stopped in the middle of driving it. It hasn't turned back on since. It cranks and sounds great, just won't turn over.
Here's everything we've changed so far:
spark plugs
ignition coils
fuel filter
fuel pump
fuel pump relay
crank shaft sensor
added gas
If there's something we're missing.
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2004 Audi A6 2.7 T quattro ... Check engine light comes on and three mechanics all say i need new torque converter even tho i have no symptoms as yet. Will I get symptoms eventually, or could this be an electrical issue. When they turn off the warning light, it takes a day or so to come back on. There has been no reduction of mileage, no gear slipping, no problem accelerating.
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Car dies after running about 6 miles mostly at idle 15 mins later will start back up and run for short time mostly dies at idle. I have checked converter normal temp , plugs are all white but not dark in color , fuel filter had some dirt so it was replaced, maf sensor was replaced in 2011
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2002 Camry 4 cylinder. I've replace the o2 sensor the one in "Bank 1". I've cleared the check engine light three times now and it still comes on about 30 plus miles. Do I need to reset the ECU? Or replace the catalytic converter?
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I have been trowing a P0422 code which is main catalyst below efficiency.
I recently changed the rear o2 sensor and about 60 miles later the same code came back.
Logic dictates that the Cat is bad or there is an air fuel issue. No other codes have been thrown.
The car is a 1999 Jetta 2.0L AEG engine but it only has 51k miles on it. Would the cat go bad in 51k miles?
What else could I be looking at?
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I have a 1998 1.8T Passat, Manual, with a P0422 DTC which always comes back after resetting. I don't have a Ross Tech since I own an older Mac. I have also sensed a more than usual odor from the exhaust and I have had a very noticeable loss in power at times.
The mechanic took a look at it and said that the cat was rattling and possibly partially plugging the exhaust system. He has ordered a new one for me - it will be here in couple of days. About 15 mins after I drove away from the shop (check engine light still on), I was accelerating away from the light and I felt a gentle jerk in the car and the power and acceleration and power that we all love in the 1.8T came totally back. It feels like a new car again. You really don't realize what you had missing until it comes back.
Does this make sense? Is this consistent with a the "plugging/unplugging" of an exhaust system by a bad cat? I just want to make sure the mechanic is doing the right thing.
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A few months ago I had multiple misfires due to a failed coil. When it happened I drove it enough to get to an Advance auto to have the code checked that came up. After I replaced the coil the car ran fine, but then the engine light came on with the P0422 bank 1 code. Does this mean the manifold cat converter is shot? The car runs fine except for what feels like the transmission trying to decide where it wants to be around 40mph (like it's shifting back and forth, don't know if it's related). I have a flex pipe that is leaking and needs replaced. I haven't noticed any loss in MPGs (consistently 26mpg city since I started checking). I have 133k miles.
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My ECS light comes on after driving about 15 miles. I checked computer to see what code it was sending. It was a 73. I looked up the code. It is the ignition pulse system. What is this and how can I fix it.
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I have a 2005 F150 5.4 and I recently got a p0175 code. I've replaced the M.A.F. sensor, fuel injectors, fuel filter, new plugs, coils and checked the vac lines but I'm still getting a p0175 code. Ive reset my P.C.M. and the code stopped for 2 weeks but returned later. The truck runs fine when I erase the code but when it returns it hesitates on take off and has a slight shake like a misfire and it makes a bubbly popping sound from the exhaust. Im at a loss of what to do next! Could this be a code stuck in the P.C.M.? My mechanic thinks it may be the cam phasers!
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Has around 173,000 miles, with a fresh cat installed a couple hundred miles ago. I was getting this code before, that is why I had a new cat installed. The code finally came back, and just recently I had to replace the crankshaft position sensor. After the sensor change, it was running great. The CEL came back on during a rainy day, I cleared it and was good for a few days. Then it rained again, and it came back. I couldn't afford a new OEM cat, I grabbed the best rated one I could from Amazon and had a shop install it. I know non OEM can be an issue, but I hope it is just an O2 sensor going bad.
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Ok had a check engine light. It directed me to replace the IAT sensor.. After some research I found it was integrated into the MAP sensor. Purchased a new sensor and replaced. Drive about 15 miles CEL throws another code. P0106 (sensor i just replaced) faulty Map sensor.
Followed procedure to replace sensor.. unhook battery cable reset ecm. After reset engine is hard to start. Followed by RPM changes (assuming its the ECM re-adjusting). Then CEL flashes 5-6 times and goes out, Drive 15 miles. Map sensor code reappears. (note i only purchased one sensor But repeated install 2 times).
My thought is against wiring. since the codes refer to different signal wires one for IAT one for MAP sensor. Faulty replacement sensor?
2002 Accent 1.6L
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I recently got a car, but for some reason I just have this small issue.
My tail lights or brake lights stay on, and I can't seem to have them go off. I checked the switches for the lights, all of them work, but the back lights will not go off.
It's a 2001 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4 door.
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I just bought my first car, a 2000 saab 9-3 convertible (base model) a month or so ago. The car had been neglected for the last year or so and I have been spending the last few weeks fixing all its issues. This last weekend I replaced the rear shocks, font struts and the rotors and brake pads on all four wheels. After driving about 20 miles or so I started to notice a squeak coming from the front right wheel well and since has become more and more noticeable/pronounced.
Squeak description:-cyclically increases and decreases in volume with each rotation of the wheel
-the squeak is constant: squeak that gets louder at a certain point in each wheel rotation but is always a certain baseline volume as long as the wheel is turning
-the volume of the squeak is NOT AT ALL effected by braking (EXACT same noise driving as while braking) which leads me to think its has nothing to do with the pads or rotors
-HERE IS THE WEIRD ONE: the squeak disappears completely when driving in reverse!
-the squeak is about the pitch and sound of a cricket, only constant and Ii guess louder.
-the noise is unaffected by turning sharply to the right and left.
Additional details:- I had to use a gear puller to press the axle out of the wheel bearing (was stuck from rust). I hooked to the back of the wheel bearing ( what the lug nuts screw into ) and pressed on the center of the axle. Maybe this could have damaged it or the cv joint?-while I was switching that wheel's strut insert out, the carrier bearing leaked 1 (maybe 1 and a half) teaspoons of grey oil from the larger end of its boot and stretched out an inch or so from the weight of the hanging axle.
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I recently purchased an 06 f150 fx4 5.4L with 60K miles. Just recently my check engine light came on and I've noticed a slight rough idle in park. I took it to autozone and the code read P0422 evap emission leak. Bought a new fuel cap but didn't work... EGR valve?
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My 2000 Ford Explorer O/D off light starts flashing after driving it after 3-8 miles from starting out. After shutting it off, it resets itself. It seems to stick between 2nd and 3rd (automatic trans) because I get a surge on my RPMs. I took it to two places, spent $200.00 and the problem remains. The tranny shop actually changed a "range sensor" and thought it was fixed. Nope - O/D off started flashing before I even got back home. I've been looking on the internet and it seems that alot of explorer owners have been having the same types of problems. The shops I have talked to have no idea other than rebuild my transmission. It only has 46,000 miles on it! It seems to me that the overdrive is not kicking in when needed and the light comes on.
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