Accent LC (2000-05) :: P0173 Trans Code - Car Will Not Shift Into OD Until It Hit About 60mph
Jul 29, 2011
I have a 2003 Hyundai Accent that is generating a p0713 code. I have replaced sensor and used SP3 fluid. I noticed if I clear codes everything is fine until it shifts into OD. When codes are cleared the car will not shift into OD until it hit about 60mph. The code is generated and then it shifts fine. I would not worry about it put it will not pass IM with the check engine light on.
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I just got a 2000 accent. The problems is that sometimes when I shift into 2nd and 3rd is notches sometimes. But it does not do it when i shift down. Also if I shift fast it will occur less often as when I shift low. When my friend drove the car it didnt do it for him. So maybe it is how i drive or something. I make sure the clutch is down all the way.
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I inherited this car from my grandmother when she passed. It has low miles, around 40k. Since I paid zero for it, I would like to keep it. Historically I have done all my repairs, but never trans work.
Here are the symptoms. The car has issues shifting into higher gears. I have to punch the gas and then it will switch gears. It then began to do this for reverse, and now now reverse does not work at all.
At first I thought it was a speed sensor problem, but when I took it in to be read, it came up with P0734. It could be electrical (Speed sensor?), low fluid (it's not low), or 4th gear.
Is this transmission worth me fixing or paying to have it repaired, or should I move on?
P.S. If I drop the pan and find shavings, I understand that to point to 4th gear and bearing (also what the computer code read as the issue). Do shavings mean it definitely is 4th/bearing, or could it be another blown part?
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With all DTCs cleared, this fault code would occur without even shifting out of Park. VW replaced both ECMs, fuel filters and O2 sensors and the car ran fine for the next 1400 miles.
At which point, I decided to get a tune - the car drives great (power gain = ~60hp/90tq. However, I am back to the P0173 fault code exhibiting the same behavior. There are no driveability issues, in fact the new tune seems to be a little smoother than the stock tune. Why this is happening again.
Address 11: Engine II Labels: None
Part No SW: 070 906 016 CQ HW: 070 906 016 CQ
Component: V10 5,0L EDCG000AGS 9805
Revision: --H05--- Serial number: hidden
Coding: 0060575
[Code] .....
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I have been looking for some information on 2004 Camry SE 4 cylinder. Last week it stopped shifting into OD. but it shifts good through first, second and third.... then it at 65MPH. I am tacking 3.5 Hundred RPM. I have a OBDii code of P0766, Solenoid. But which one.
There are three solenoids in the trans. (I have changed the filter and fluids about 3000 miles ago ) so now I believe one of the solenoids is bad. But I cant find out which one.
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My wife started our '99 Explorer last week and she said that the engine was rattling. I started it up when I got home and it sounded like something had let loose in the engine. We took it a local mechanic and he basically said that the motor was shot. I pulled the codes and it doesn't look good to me but I'm not a mechanic. Codes are:
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0173
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My car has started to do something odd. Whenever I am in 3rd gear, at about 2000-2200 rpm, the engine will revup 100 rpm or so and then back down (only for a split second). This only happens on 3rd gear and only at about 2000 rpm. Its a 2005 Hyundai Accent Hatchback with an automatic transmission with Royal Purple ATF. I also have a SRI and manga-flow muffler (if that makes any difference).
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My tranny is slipping all over the place . I recently less than 1500 miles ago changed tranny fulid, tree branch and TP filter, ford filters, and 8 to 9 quarts of mercon SP. My truck is shifting like a bucking bronco. Came up with PO671. So should I replace just the 1 solenoid. Or all the valve body? I plan to run a gauge in cab to see shift pressures for testing purposes to aid in troubleshooting for current issue... reason for fluid change is history unkown.
2004 6.0 f250 4x4 tourque shift OdO is 163,800...
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I bought a 2000 Ranger 4x4 3.0L auto today from the neighbor guy sight unseen with a "bad tranny" for $400. I'm very unfamiliar with the Ranger family, but long story short:
When moving the shift lever, the trans doesn't engage. It needs to be engaged from underneath. Do the cables tend to stretch, or break? I can't find any adjustment on it anywhere.
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I have the p0734 and p0732 codes. Thing is it shifts hard into second and wont go into overdrive when first started. After about ten minutes of drive time you shut it off and turn it back on and the thing shifts perfectly. No hard shifts and overdrive works then check engine light turns off. The pulse generators have been replaced when i purchased car. It is an 02 accent with 90,000 miles.
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I've got a 2003 Accent and my automatic transmission went out, no reverse and the only forward gear is 1st. Was thinking of pulling it and swapping it for a used, but I have been reading on here the many, many automatic transmission problems of the accent and my next thought was to just rebuild it myself. But now I'm thinking more along the of a swap from auto to manual, as I don't want to have to rebuild a transmission that is only going to have to be rebuilt again anyway. As far as stuff like the clutch pedal, linkages, gear shifter, I can get those pretty easily. Does the Accent have a hydraulic clutch?
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It does not like to stay in 5th gear, drops out to neutral. 2001 Accent Hatchback. 1.5l 5-speed
The other day it started slipping out of 5th gear on the expressway. Held good for the first 10 to 20 minutes. Afterwards I had to hold it in 5th for it to stay in gear. While holding I noticed it pushed on the shifter when applying throttle, and let up some when I let of the gas.
I inspected the pivots at the transmission. The forward / back bushing was not installed properly by the previous owner. I rigged it up better with a fender washer and cotterpin. It previously had just a pin and the bushing had expanded out. This removed the play from shifting I had previously noticed. It also halfway fixed the popping out of gear. It stays in gear a little longer, and when I put it back into 5th it stays there for a while most of the time.
I have not inspected the lubricant level yet. Where to check next?
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What RPMs do you usually have on the highway with your accent? I'm driving a 2009 Accent GS and I'm running at ~2.8-3.2k around the 60MPH mark. Is that high? What do you all run at 60mph?
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Tranny died 12000 miles ago and shop rebuilt tranny with new torque converter.
Problem then and now is after long freeway run 60+miles it dies and bogs down with any shift change. If it is placed in 2nd it will bogg down and die. If the tranny auto shifts it also dies. If it cools or just sits it will run again for a while. This does not happen always so it is hard to duplicate it.
Truck is not towing or even loaded most of the time and only once was it loaded when it died, the first rebuild. Truck has 249000 miles, ex v10.
So any clues as to what the shop missed last time and is it worth rebuilding again. Truck is only worth a bit more than the cost of shop time.
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Our family has a 2003 Accent with 94k, automatic, and one very weird issue besides the teen that drove it last. Ok, towed it home, thought the battery or starter was bad. Replaced starter, battery. Same problem, won't turn over. When you turn the key, engine advances about one inch at a time, meaning the flywheel rotates one inch on each key turn. Ok, here is the weird part: Smoke drifts out of the transmission near the access plate between the trans and the engine! Like there is a smoldering fire inside? The wire off of the battery terminal that goes to the fuse block gets very hot as well. Where do I start? What it is, unless the torque converter is stuck or some solenoid is burned up?
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I have an '05 accent with an auto trans. The car only has 25k on it with the original trans fluid. Every once in a while the trans will thud when coming to a quick stop. It actually doesn't even make a noise, but you can feel it going into presumably 1st gear. It only happens when I need to semi-quickly stop for a yellow light etc. right as I'm coming to a complete stop. Trans seems completely fine otherwise. Is this a normal thing? Just an older style/technology auto?
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So my accent with a manual trans has a small leak at the slave cylinder for the clutch. I am driving home and it's shifting hard. I get home pull up to where I live and push In the clutch and the car feels like the clutch is not pushed in. RPMs drop and car stalled. Look under hood and see not fluid in clutch master cylinder. Fill with fluid and pump pedal. I get some pedal back but the car will not crank. Nothing. I have accidentally cranked car when in gear in the past and there did not seem to be a safety switch as the car would move if my foot was not on brakes.
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Ok had a check engine light. It directed me to replace the IAT sensor.. After some research I found it was integrated into the MAP sensor. Purchased a new sensor and replaced. Drive about 15 miles CEL throws another code. P0106 (sensor i just replaced) faulty Map sensor.
Followed procedure to replace sensor.. unhook battery cable reset ecm. After reset engine is hard to start. Followed by RPM changes (assuming its the ECM re-adjusting). Then CEL flashes 5-6 times and goes out, Drive 15 miles. Map sensor code reappears. (note i only purchased one sensor But repeated install 2 times).
My thought is against wiring. since the codes refer to different signal wires one for IAT one for MAP sensor. Faulty replacement sensor?
2002 Accent 1.6L
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I have 1995 Toyota Avalon w/173K miles. It’s in good shape mechanically and cosmetically. My 16 yr old daughter is the primary driver. I have extensive service records and have replaced the springs/struts, o2 sensors, and a few other bits. My question is related to hard shifts and a check engine light. During the summer the trans shifts normally. In the fall & winter, when temps dip below 50 degrees, the trans shifts harshly and the check engine light blinks indicating a trans solenoid is defective. The trans fluid has been flushed twice, most recently in Oct 2008 at the Toyota dealership. My theory is the techs filled the trans with a heavier weight fluid than is necessary and that is triggering the codes.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent GS Hatchback, the car has about 41,6xx miles on it. When i drive it between 2nd and 3rd gear it shift violently, its almost like it shifts due to pressure, it also happens when it downshift too. Also the reverse went out, i can hear the pump running and it goes into reverse but when i press on the gas it acts like it in neutral. This is a daily driver for me.
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My 2000 4 dr Accent got flooded last night in a rainstorm. The water came up over the shifter in the floor, but not past the cigarette lighter. I probably should just write it off, but I'm pretty much way too broke to buy a new car and I need one for my job (substitute teaching).
Anyways - the car starts, but I can't shift out of park. I moved it using that little override switch. My brake lights, signal lights, etc. all work. I don't know what it could be, because the only other post I saw close to this said to check if the brake lights were not working and what to do if they weren't.
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