Car heats up (dial at 3/4 temp.) with A/C on at highway speeds. Turn off A/C and temperature drops back to normal (in between the two dots). Everything appears to be in working order.
View 18 RepliesMy problems started out around the beginning of the year. Mostly, it was the transmission. It would slam really hard when shifting. Worst, sometimes while on the freeway, it would shift on it's own, for no reason, into a lower gear and get stuck. (Happened twice and was really scary).
Along with this, a couple times I would start it up and it would rev really hard, about twice what it normally would.
Usually, with the revving, I could turn it off and back on, and it would stop. A few times I could disconnect the battery, reconnect, and it'd be fine.
As for the tranny, I could turn it off then back on and sometimes that would work. Other times after a few miles it'd work itself out.
I did take it to my local Hyundai dealership. The first few times they couldn't get any code to pop, and they couldn't simulate the issue. It was very random when it'd happen. Luckily, on the 3rd try, they did get the tranny to shift hard. They said it was a bad tranny and replaced it (free due to warranty).
Unfortunately, that hasn't gotten rid of the issue. After a few months... maybe 3K - 4K miles the issue is back. Again, it's very random.
I've had the high revving which I've had to disconnect the battery to resolve. And the tranny is slamming again.
I don't notice any other issues. No engine light (except the one time the engine was revving really high and I had to disconnect the battery to reset, then the light went off).
Sometimes I can go a month with no issues. Sometimes it'll happen back to back days.
Could it be a computer issues? Is that something I can fix/change out as a novice?
I have an 05 accent that overheats on short rides, it smells of antifreeze when you pop the hood. There are no visible leaks, and the antifreeze level is good.
Also the check engine light is on and is outputting a P2096 code.
I'm stumped as to what this problem could be, at first I was thinking thermostat or some kind of clog or something like that, now I'm not so sure.
For three months. I have a problem overheating false indication. I changed the water pump, the thermostat, the cooling radiator, the temperature sensor.
When driving with more than 110 kilometers, and turn on the lights, the temperature rises. The same is done with any electric charge, air conditioning etc.
If I reduce the speed of about 70-80 kilometers then the temperature begins to fall.
Note that I measure the temperature on the temperature sensor base, with a digital thermometer and while the temperature gauge was almost in the red field, the temperature showing the digital thermometer was 88-90 Celsius degrees.
2005 Accent Hatchback... As of Friday I noticed my vehicle had been overheating. The coolant levels haven't seemed to change but this is a recent issue so there still may be a slow leak I'm not noticing.
I let the car idle to normal operating temperatures over the course of 17 minutes. While warming up the top radiator hose became warmer, and eventually hot -- the bottom hosed seemed to stay cold and didn't appear to change in temperature.
After reaching normal temps I let the car sit another 3-5 minutes to watch the temp gauge, which did not move. I drove the vehicle stop-and-go 5 laps around my complex(about a mile). There was no noticeable change in temps.
I then turned on the AC which blew ice cold and did another lap. After the first lap the gauge began to rise fairly quick. I immediately turned the AC off and drove the rest of the 2nd lap. The temperatures continued to rise throughout the 2nd lap. I parked with the gauge at about 62% assuming normal temps to be 50% (middle of gauge).
Once parked I checked the hoses. Top hose was hot, bottom hose cold. Coolant tank was at the HIGH mark previous to it being on the LOW mark before the car was started. The oil is at the same level as it was when I changed it a couple months ago, and it looked clean.
Before I started the car I also noted that the radiator was filled to the top. As mentioned OIL looks clean, coolant looks clean. No unusual smoke coming from exhaust or engine.
I've done a lot of reading and some information suggest that the thermostat might be stuck closed. Other post say that if the thermostat was stuck closed the top hose wouldn't get hot. But, these are also post for other vehicles so that might vary here.
My 2000 Accent with 164,000km is not overheating but is dumping coolant into the reservoir so that the radiator is about a quart low. I did have a few problems with it overheating in the past month, but that was solved by thermostat removal (always above 80F here). I stopped before the overheats reached the redline and allowed the engine to cool before continuing, no known adverse performance during the overheats. No water in oil.
Failed troubleshooting:
Drained and replaced coolant x3
New radiator cap
* No thermostat.
I have a 2003 Accent and it has been over heating constantly for about 5 months. After it started, we replaced the main radiator hose, thermostat, radiator cap AND a head and head gasket. It worked for about 2 weeks and then over heated again. It seems like there is too much pressure somewhere because the lid for my reservoir shoots off and all the coolant comes out. I'm just not sure where to look for a clog since it is coming out of the reservoir. It also recently started having transmission problems(?) or that is what I think it is... It won't go in reverse and has a hard time shifting sometimes. I'm not sure if it could be related or if it is the tranny also.
View 4 RepliesI have a 96 honda civic that I can't seem to figure out why its overheating. I've changed the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, and cleaned the system a number of times. It only seems to overheat when I'm on the free way and up to speed. When I get to my destination I see that the water overflow is full of water like to the top of the filler, so the water is being ejected out of the system. It also seems to have a lot of pressure in the system.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t. 160k miles. Bought it recently. It's been overheating on me. Mainly on the freeway while having the RPMs higher than the small streets. I don't see any leaks. I'm not losing any coolant. But I do smell burning coolant. I don't see anything smoking though. I changed out the coolant temp sensor. I have a thermostat but haven't gotten to it yet. Just wanted other opinions before moving on. There is some sort of little motor on the radiator with some coolant hose connected to it. When turning off the car, it stays on and buzzes for a good 10-15 minutes before stopping. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. I don't even know what that thing is or called.
View 14 RepliesMy 2001 Chevy Malibu overheated on the freeway the other day. I bought hey thermostat but I don't know if it is the water pump or not. Is there any way to tell without going through the elimination process?
View 2 Replies2004 F250 6.0 L. New head gaskets, ARP studs, new oil cooler, new water pump, all new hoses, new thermostat, 4" exhaust, EGR delete, new coolant bottle, radiator and cooling system flush, new injector seals and oil rail plugs all done at 98,000 miles. The truck is at 119,000 now and has been doing great since all the work. I have been frequently hauling very heavy loads and pulling cars on trailers and no problems. EOT has been staying about 7 degrees above ECT except on hill climbs. No coolant loss at all. Today suddenly while driving on the freeway (unloaded) the temps spiked. I pulled over when the ECT hit 240. Once cooled down I checked coolant level, hoses etc and since all was fine I took off again. Overheated again after about 5 miles. My understanding was that the Ford thermostat fails open if it fails. Do I have that wrong? Do I have a stuck thermostat? Some other problem?
View 14 RepliesI have a 1995 3000gt sl. When im on the freeway running at 80 mph and maintaining that speed it starts to overheat.I can reduce my speed and it starts to cool down I can also turn heater on high and that cools it down I cant hit the exit ramp and by the time I get stopped at the end of ramp its cooled back down.I can start it and sit with it running and it never gets hot.If I stay below 55 I never have any overheating its only when I increase and maintain 75 or faster I have a problem. Also when it was hot outside I turned my air on max cool one day and it got hot real fast.So to fix that I just didn't run my air any more. then a few months went by and this started to happen.50mph and slower its fine.But at freeway speed limit it starts running hot. Only with increased speed to the engine does it start getting hot.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 6.8L V10 Ex, and I'm currently working through the last thing on my "to fix" list. The truck has 37" tires (Nitto Mud Grapplers), and at freeway speeds the speedometer is off by 10mph. If it reads 60mph, I'm really going about 70mph.
I thought the solution was to order an SCT flash tuner, so I purchased one with tunes from 5startuning:
**1. SCT 7015 - X4 Flash Device with Choice of 5 Star Tuning Custom Tunes - 5 Star Tuning
I choose the correct Revs per mile for my tire (560), but the speedo is STILL 10mph off at 70mph.
No changes that I made to the tire size or axle ratio made any difference. It always read the same amount off. The SCT X4 flash tuner wasnt able to change the speedo on the 2000 Ex's.
[URL] ....
My question is this: If both of those tuners plug into the exact same port, and use the same parameters, why is it my X4 tuner can't change the speedo, yet this other tuner is able to? It doesn't make any sense to me. If the X4 truly cannot change the speedo of certain model years, there should really be a disclaimer about it. Feels like a bit of a rip off since the only reason I purchased it in the first place was to correct my speedo...
I have a 2000 5.2 ltr. Dodge Ram Van. Only in overdrive, only with the cruise on, there is a slight hesitation at freeway speeds every few seconds. The Chrysler dealer said it was the overdrive clutches going bad, to the tune of trans rebuild. Guess what? It didn't fix it.
View 2 RepliesTranny died 12000 miles ago and shop rebuilt tranny with new torque converter.
Problem then and now is after long freeway run 60+miles it dies and bogs down with any shift change. If it is placed in 2nd it will bogg down and die. If the tranny auto shifts it also dies. If it cools or just sits it will run again for a while. This does not happen always so it is hard to duplicate it.
Truck is not towing or even loaded most of the time and only once was it loaded when it died, the first rebuild. Truck has 249000 miles, ex v10.
So any clues as to what the shop missed last time and is it worth rebuilding again. Truck is only worth a bit more than the cost of shop time.
2000 Ford Excursion, 7.3 PS with 210,000 miles. I am on I40 at a truckstop. I was rolling down the freeway last night when the truck started bucking. I pulled of the freeway and here came a thunderstorm. I waited til this morning to check for codes cheap scanner. I pulled a code P1211. I waited for NAPA to open so I could take it in the shorts. I bought a fuel filter and an ICP sensor. After changing them out, the truck runs then starts missing. My battery is about to die so I will finish post shortly.
View 14 RepliesMy 2000 LS V6 is overheating. Fan seems okay. I replaced thermostat. Still overheating. What's weird is the 2 hoses above the thermostat housing are piping hot, while the hose beneath the housing is cool. Possible I replaced a bad thermostat with a bad one from the factory?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. The temperature gauge in the car moves toward the "danger zone" only under both the following conditions:
1) Car is at IDLE after being driven for a while (15-20 minutes). 2) Headlights are ON (I've sat in the car and watched the temperature gauge move up and then back down as I turn on and thrn turn off the headlights).
*What I've also noticed is that the temperature gauge starts moving up as the radiator fans kick ON.
I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
View 21 RepliesMy Explorer has been overheating for the last couple of days. It red-lines unless I turn on the heater, and then it still runs pretty hot. From all I can tell, there is plenty of coolant in it, and the fan is running.
The air conditioner went out about the same time (it goes in and out), but that may just need to be recharged.
2000 Lincoln ls v8 ... I just replaced degas bottle and cap. I changed because it was leaking antifreeze. Now even with new bottle after I turn car off antifreeze is still coming through degas bottle cap. I was wondering if my problem could be my water pump going bad causing the fluid to boil after engine is shut and building pressure high enough to push through cap?
View 2 Replies