Accent LC (2000-05) :: Oil Pressure Light Occasionally Flicker At Idle / Car Will Not Rev Past 5k
Jul 11, 2011
I picked up an 02' accent, 1.5l that i've been intending to use as a commuter car. Drove fairly well on the way back home, but it seems it's got some low oil pressure issues once it's good an hot. As the oil pressure light will occasionally flicker at idle, mind you the car is near dying too.
Or so I thought, it was also misfiring/stumbling fairly badly,
Pulled all connections, cleaned, dielectric grease on them, fixed some of it. And it turns out the fellow who did the timing belt last didn't exactly remember to put the bolts back on the fuel rail.... Okay, that's fixed now.
Put in a little heavier oil, and no more issues with the light coming on, but I do have some lifter noise it seems like.
As well, the car will not rev past 5k in neutral or under load. Air filter is new, and no obstructions through to the intake manifold.
I'd guess based on the missing bolts here and there, the guy was a bit of a hackjob mechanic and i'm guessing has the belt out a tooth or so.... I can't see anywhere to stick a timing light on to verify ignition timing, how to check the timing belt is straight up? It's a bit of a dog compared to the other accent i've been in. The power band is like 2000-3500 and it just won't climb anywhere past that.
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1991 Celica ST 4A-FE automatic, 238,000 miles, son's car, has been running great, until he says his oil light occasionally flickers on him. Car is in Wisconsin, driven maybe 2 miles one way to work every day, hasn't been on the highway is a couple months. Has synthetic 5W-30 oil with about 2,000 miles since last change.
Brought the car into the garage. Sure enough, after engine warmed up and idle got below 1,000 RPM, oil pressure warning lamp would come on. Engine sounded normal at idle and fast idle. Tough to put a mechanical pressure gauge on this engine (after to remove the alternator and A/C compressor and bracket, per the service manual, to access the oil pressure switch). I drove it on the highway, put about 40 miles on it, ran great, until I exited the highway. Anything below 1200 RPM, oil pressure warning light would come on.
Came home, removed the oil filter with intent to change it (to make sure it wasn't plugged). Smelled of gas. Oh-Oh. Drained the oil (oil level was at full mark, unusual for this vehicle, normally would be 1/2-quart low after 2,000 miles - 2 months of winter driving). Oil came out with consistency of water. Smelled of gas, and could see water droplets as I switch the drained oil from a collection pan into a jug. Thought was many short trips caused oil to never get hot enough to burn off unburned fuel blow-up or accumulated moisture, so oil was diluted, much too low viscosity.
Changed oil & filter with synthetic 5W-30 & Purolator PureOne oil filter. Took it back on the highway for 40 miles again. Highway drive was fine. Upon exiting, oil pressure warning light came on at 1,600 RPM or below. Oh-Oh. Had another 40 miles on the highway to get home. Highway drive was good again. Upon existing, oil pressure warning light came on again at 1,800 RPM or lower. Oh-Oh.
Worrying that the oil pump for pressure by-pass valve or of bearing spin-out or extreme wear (although engine sounded fine all the time), decided to order an OEM oil pressure switch. Had to take some of the bolt-ons off to access the oil pressure switch, but not all the service manual said had to come off. Took the old oil pressure switch out - looked just fine. Installed the new one, put everything back together. Checked to make sure the oil pressure warning light still came on with key in the ON position (it did), so I knew the wiring connections were good. Startup was fine (cold engine). Took it on the highway for 40 miles, after exiting highway, no more oil pressure warning light. Even tested the situation with the automatic in drive, brake applied, lights on high-beam, heater fan on high, rear window defroster on (got the engine down to 600 RPM), still not oil pressure warning light. Turned engine off, then turned ignition key to ON, oil pressure warning light comes on like it should.
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I bought the car 3 years ago 2003 2.4L Hyundai Santa fe , I have driven it around 200 miles ( to and from shops ), I am having an issue now where once the car is warmed up ( post 15 mins ) It will idle really low * almost stalling * and oil pressure light will flicker, If I hold the brake and get it to almost 800 - 1k RPM it goes off and driving is not an issue *no knock*. I just got it driving for the 1st time in the past year, and drove it for about 45 mins in stop an go traffic, Temp light was all the way to cold, once stopped in stop and go traffic it would go up half way, as soon as I could get above 50mph it would slowly work itself all the way to the bottom?
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2003 2.4L Hyundai Santa fe
I should really count my losses and move on but I cant.
Bought the car with 89K on it I now have 90K
New Battery
New Radiator
New Motor mounts 3
New Trans mount 1
New Hoses
Oil Change ( 40 miles ago )
Trans Oil Change ( 40 miles ago )
Power Steering Fluid change ( 40 miles ago )
2nd cat delete ( didn't want to waste any more money )
After Market 1st Cat
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I was putting in a subwoofer earlier today, and after I put everything back together, I turned the ignition to ON just to test out the system, and all the electronics worked fine.
However, when I went to crank the engine, nothing would happen, not even a click or crank. I tried jump starting the car, and it would crank and crank and crank, but wouldn't go on. All the electronics still worked fine, but the EPC light, CEL, and battery light would be solid. While cranking, the battery light would occasionally flicker.
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I have hundai Accent 2003. It was working fine I parked it in the night came back in morning and it wont start and showing low oil pressure light. The ignition is not working.
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I have a 2000 Accent that wont shift past third gear until the car is warm. The car has 140k miles. When I turn on the car and pull onto the high way it sticks in 3rd. I then have to slow down and drive through a small town. When I get on the other side of the small town and get back up to speed it will shift. Over drive is on.
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Back in July some time I went out to my Accent (00' 1.5L) to go to work and it didn't want to turn over. Normally it's quick to start. So I turned off the A/C and it started right up. I went about my way. The next day, same thing happened. I thought it might be a camshaft position sensor, figured I'd be ok and headed to work. Got about 2 miles from the house and it died. So I pull over and try to start, no dice. Can't get it to start to save my life. We have it towed to the house and park it. This happened about 3 days before we closed on a new house, and having other cars we decided this needed to stay on the back burner. About a month later, I do some troubleshooting (not enough) and decide that the fuel pump is bad. I don't hear it coming on when I try to start the car. So, I replaced it. Turn the key, still no noise from the fuel pump. So, I leave it sitting for a couple of more months. During this time I've done more research than I care to admit regarding this car. I find out there's a Fuel Pump Check under the hood. I checked all relays/fuses before replacing the fuel pump. But didn't thing to test the fuel pump check. My loss there.
So, Saturday was a nice day I spent about 5 hours with my father and brother-in-law working on the car. First thing we do is Put 12v to it and the fuel pump comes right to life. So, we know it's not the fuel pump. Check the connections with a multimeter, we have voltage where we should and grounds where we should. So relay is working, wires are good. Finally we find a schematic of the fuel system and go hunting for the MFI (Engine) Control Relay. Well, I don't know how it happened since it's inside the car, but when we pulled it, it was rusty as all get out. We replaced it and the car still didn't want to start. Checked for fuel pressure at the rail, yup, we got fuel. So we sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it finally fired up and ran. But it's not running how it ran when it died on me back in July. This car has been extremely reliable until this point. It's not a race car, but it will do 55-60 comfortably and get 38mpg doing it. Well, after it starts it's idling very rough, surging from 500-1500 rpm. We let it run for about 30 minutes and it continues to surge the entire time but doesn't stall. So I take it out for a test drive, as long as I only give it partial throttle 10-15% it gets up to speed in an acceptable amount of time. But anything more than that and it bogs down and will not accelerate. So I drive it home and park it.
The next day, I change the spark plugs, fill it up with some fresh gas, top off all the fluids and throw some Lucas fuel treatment into the tank. It started much better, but still surges, just not as badly as before. And the acceleration problem remains. I'm going to replace the wires next and see how things go and I've also ordered a new MAF and some other goodies. Oh, car has 133,000 miles on it. I do not know if the timing belt was ever changed and nobody in my family remembers if it was done either. I'm leaning towards being on borrowed time and the timing kit is one of the goodies mentioned. So, I've got a busy weekend coming up. But, I have to get this car back on the road so that my wife who is now commuting 140miles round trip per day can save some money on gas.
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My 2002 1.5td accent starts from cold every time but if drive about half a mile then stop when i restart it wont get past about 1200 revs. i leave it for 5 mins then runs fine...
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Last weekend I decided my brothers 850 T5 was well over due an Engine oil and AFT change (two years for oil and never for the atf). The car has done 182,000 and drives great. Any way I bought 20 litres of 15w-40 and 20 litres of DEX 3 atf as it worked out a lot cheaper and it can be used for my fathers 940.
Anyway on Saturday I got the engine warm and noticed the oil pressure light flicker on and off. it had never done that before so I should have checked the dipstick there and then but I just went ahead and drained the old oil and removed the filter. To my surprise only about two litres of black oil came out despite the fact my brother swears he checked it 2 weeks before and it was fine. I thought this was odd as the engine had been running perfect and at that level I would expect serious damage to have been done. I fitted the new filter and sump plug with washer, filled a 5 litre tub from the bigger 20L tub and poured in 4L. I checked the dip stick and it took the remaining litre to get the level correct. I checked it again and then started the engine to get the oil into the filter etc and the level was still perfect. I finished the atf change(that's another story) and thought it a job well done.
The next evening my brother was about to use the car and I said I would check the level one more time now it was cold. There was nothing on the dipstick. There was no oil under the car so I slowly topped it up but nothing showed on the stick. I knew there was at least 5 litres in there so I didn't want to over fill it but when I started it, it sounded tappety. I put another couple of litres in and the noise reduced but still nothing on the stick. he then drove the car for a short journey and it drove fine but I said it was still tappety. I checked the oil again and now the handle snaps off the dipstick.
I have done oil changes many times before and am really very competent mechanically (I'm an engineer). Any way this gets me doubting the dipsticks accuracy so I suggest he let our neighbour who's a mechanic take a look the next day and basically today he came back and said he drained the oil and there was only 2.5 litres of oil in the engine. He topped it up and it's running fine and I fixed the dipstick with glue to check and it's perfect there as well. The thing is I know that I put enough in there, and my 20 litre tub has only 10 left.
The car is fine now. I know the obvious ones are that it was my mistake and I didn't put enough oil in, or I don't know the difference between a 1 litre and 5 litre tub but I assure you that this wasn't the case. Is there any where internal this quantity of engine oil can leak to? the transmission? coolant?
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What may be wrong with my 2001 Accent? The engine has occasionally cut out in the past and the Engine Management light has come on, but the car has always restarted and the light gone out.
On the most recent occasion though, the engine would not re-start and when I turn the ignition key to the first position there is no Engine Management Light or ABS Light - I have normally seen these in the past when the ignition is on and they went out when the engine was started but now they just don't light up at all.
There is no power at the diagnostic plug, all fuses seem OK tested with a multimeter (unless there is another hidden away somewhere for the ecu?), all of the electrical earths/ grounds that I can see seem OK. Is it likely that the ecu has failed or may there be a simple fix.
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We got a 1990 celica gt with the 5sfe in it. first night driving it after about 30 minutes the oil light would flicker at idle. We checked the oil, it was nasty so we did a complete oil change. Didn't fix the issue. Well then we developed an oil leak at the oil pump seal so we replaced all those. We had heard the sending units were notorious for going bad so we took it out and put an aftermarket gage in it. Still an issue.
Ok so then we checked the main bearings to make sure they were ok, they are fine. Normal wear. No clogged oil screen either. We then was told to try a little bit thicker oil so we did that. Still the issue. Here's what happens. start it up cold at idle is about 50-60psi. Let it warm completely up and it drops to 18-20psi. When you rev it up it rises.
Ok well after driving it for about 30 minutes after warm when I came to a stop it dropped to 0! Rev it up and it rises a lot. Held it at 2k rpms and it stays at about 30-35 psi. Ok as I'm driving it, it has good oil pressure. Motor is not making any noises other than the common Toyota valve chatter.
We have ran cleaner thru the engine thinking so gunked up ports and still no change. We are at a loss. Like I said cold it's fine, revving it up after being hot is fine. Driving it is fine. but boy when the engine is hot n u come to a stop or at idle it's nothing.
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I have a 52 Reg Accent MVi and, occasionally when changing down into 1st gear, My gear stick sometimes doesn't want to go into place, or it will go into place but the car will still be in neutral.
Also, sometimes, when it feels like it hasn't quite gone in right, and i lift off the clutch, the car gets stuck somewhere in between gears and cant move, and i have to yank the gear stick (quite hard) back into neutral.
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I got a 2002 accent 1.3 si, engine warning light comes on but doesn't seem to affect cars running, no misfires, no stalling, still good acceleration and mpg, occasional engine revving on its own, changed tps sensor and engine revving on its own was worse. Was told by hyundai mechanic to disconnect battery for 30 seconds and if light went out it was either faulty tps sensor or an intermittent non constant fault reading, light did go out for some time but is now back on.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent with 120,000 miles on it. Up until a few months ago, its been a great little car. The transmission started acting funny by shifting irregularly and then getting stuck in 3rd gear occasionally. I took it to the dealer and they told me that the tranny is shot. The estimate for the repair is $2000.00.
I just can't see putting that much money into this car. It needs Struts, Shocks and a timing belt. Basically what it needs is what its worth if it were running well.
How hard it is to replace the transmission in this car? I have the 1.6L DOHC with the Automatic transmission.
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My son owns a 2000 BMW 328i... sporadically, and without warning, the motor will speed up at idle, going from 600 rpm to 1200 rpm, then down to 700 rpm, then back to 600 rpm. This happens intermittently, when the motor is warmed up...
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2000 Ranger 2.5L. Recently driving up and down road to work about a half hour in to drive the battery light will flicker especially if under a load (AC on, lights on)etc... Assuming it is the alternator/voltage regulator getting ready to FAIL. Plan on replacing alternator this weekend? What to do or check something other than replace the alternator?
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Yesterday as soon as I started my car, I noticed a high pitched whining noise. As I drove, it seemed to stop, but as I slowed down and idled, it came back. After driving a couple miles, the battery light came on, so I turned off the AC, radio, and lights and it went off again, but as I sat at stop lights it would flicker on and off again.
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I bought a 7.3 f250 with 300k mi. It had a battery light on but didn't show any signs of trouble. Eventually started dropping volts a few days later and I replaced the alternator. The light is still on and flickers in time with the idle of the truck and sometimes goes out when I'm on the gas pedal. Some nights when the lights are on the voltage drops ever so slowly until its drained. Why the new alternator didn't fix the problem? NAPA's scanner says the truck has 12.4V at idle and 12.1V at idle with the lights on. Batteries are relatively new and test fine, dual Interstate Mega-tron Plus batteries-top of the line.
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Today I started my 2000 Suburban on the coldest morning ever, -14 degrees actual temp. I went inside to let it warm up and about 15 min later I went out to go to work and the check oil pressure light was on and oil pressure read 0. Is this due to extreme cold and thick oil ? Or did something break on start up. I am going to wait until temps are up before I try it again as it was running awful. I am fearing that 15 min warm up may have hurt her.
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Lately when I drive my car, I hear like a steam pressure release noise.. And happening ONLY when I have my Fan on in the car.
Sometimes it's soft and sometimes is a long loud one, and then you can feel the car holding in. (like quickly hitting the brakes a little bit)
How to explain it. I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent 2 doors.
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I have a 2002 ford explorer with 70000 miles on it. The problem is that the oil pressure occasionally go from normal to no pressure immediately. Then within a minute it pops right back to normal. It has happened when I first crank up and sometimes just going down the interstate at a normal speed. My fear is that the oil pressure is really gone and there is a pump problem but with it either working or not I fear it could be a sensor problem.
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