Accent LC (2000-05) :: Oil Light Flickered On And Off
Mar 15, 2013
Have a 2000 accent with 155k on it. The other day noticed the oil light flickered on and off... hasn't come back on since... so I did some google research and saw some postings on possible oil pump issues. Another thing this morning went to go get the oil changed and they said they wouldnt change it cause iut was knocking a little.... so I have a feeling both these issues are related somehow... Last thing when I check the oil with the car cold.. I pull the dipstick and dont see any oil on it.... but when its running you pull the dipstick and it shows the oil.....
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I have a 2008 Volvo S40. I bought it used less than a year ago, at around 68k miles from a volvo dealership in my area. At just before my 75000 maintenance, I noticed that my oil light flickered while I made turns. Turns out, I was 4-5 quarts low on oil- and took it into my mechanic (a certified volvo mechanic) within two days and without further driving it. Everything goes well- car looks good. Now, at my 82,000 mile maintenance, again, the same flicker of the oil lamp light on my turns- and poof! Oil is down again 5 quarts. Now, there's absolutely no sign of leakage or burning, and my mechanic thinks it's due to carbon build up around the piston rings.... this sounds like more of a result of a disguised problem, rather than the cause itself. I don't use cheap gas, and have done everything according to the service manual.
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I installed a new ballast and bulb for an 07 ES350. Light, on drivers side, still flickered until I installed the ground screw. This is the screw behind the drivers side quarter panel and it is the only screw on the side of the headlight assembly. Once I inserted this screw, light functioned properly for about 10 minutes. Then it went out and light doesn't come on at all. The fuse is still good. I have tried switching bulbs and light still doesn't work. Also, there isn't any humming from the ballast at all.
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Last week a warning light appeared on screen. It flickered on and off for a minute, and I think it was going on more when I was cornering. Then it stayed on and has been on ever since.
I did a search and read the post about the clock spring recall. But it is not a recall in the UK. I'm in the UK where they sold this model from 2006. I guess I'm going to have to take it to the dealer and get them to read the codes.
Is there anything simple I can check myself first, like for a lose connection under the seats of anything like that?
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I noticed the second night driving our new Touareg that the compass light flickered from dim to bright and back. A few minutes after the display went completely off. Haven't noticed it since but I have seen a few posts that suggest they turn off after 30 sec. and can be adjusted with VagCom. I called VWoA and they had no info on it yet. The other issue was the engine cover that was on the demo Touareg with identical options other than the color, is not on our new vehicle. Our vehicle we bought was delivered the night of our demo ride, so it is a late build...small center rear head rest...etc. When I questioned the dealer they said the engine cover was discontinued recently and is not installed anymore. I wish it was there, looks clean. Other than that my second vehicle is an '04 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I love to drive the VW over the Jeep. They did an excellent job on it.
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Some months ago airbag light went on. I carried my car to Hyundai and they reset the light and told me that the problem was probably the clock spring. But I tested the clock spring and it was ok and I tested the airbag device and was ok too. Now light is on again. I have tied a 2 ohm resistor between wires before the clock spring but light remains on.
Question: I have a cheap Chinese ELM327 OBD2 reader. Any software valid for this reader and able for reseting airbag light?
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My check engine light is on and I'd like to try to read the codes myself without the machine. Any proper link here that I can follow to read the codes? When I search I'm returning mainly threads that tell me to GO get it scanned versus pulling the codes myself.
2002 Hyundai Accent GS
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I have hundai Accent 2003. It was working fine I parked it in the night came back in morning and it wont start and showing low oil pressure light. The ignition is not working.
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So I bought a 2005 accent a while back, and one thing that's been bothering me is the hatch light won't turn on. It's not an issue with the bulb, and I'm not sure how to fix this.
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I drive a 2001 Hyundai Accent. About a month a go the CE light came on. at first, the car was driving fine so I thought nothing of it. Then I started noticing that the acceleration was sluggish and when it finally accelerated, it basically slingshot forward. What could be wrong. There's no smell, rattling or anything else. The only thing I noticed was the engine was a bit louder.
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The lights that light up the A/C controls in my '03 Accent went out. I checked all the fuses in the engine bay and inside the car and they were all fine. Since only the lights relating to the A/C controls are out, is it just a bulb? if so, how do I change the bulb? I began to take off the dashboard cover, but I didn't see any bulbs.
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My wife drives an 04 Accent and we seem to have a major issue. Here goes...if you turn the headlight switch to the first spot(parking lights etc.) the digital display disappears and the cluster gauges freakout and all the warning light flicker. When you proceed to the second spot(headlight on) no headlights, high or low, but when you pull and hold flash to pass the high beams work as does the instrument panel.
when you turn the switch back to the off position the trip meter resets back to 0.0. I've replaced the multi-function switch and no change. Here's the kicker, if you turn the blower motor on, the instrument panel acts up the same way and the blower motor, a/c, defrost don't work, but if you pull and hold flash to pass the blower motor, a/c all that works great. This is my wife's car and since it is in this state she really shouldn't be out in it.
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They originally had the issue where the truck open light was on accept when braking which I traced back to the harness in there trunk, a few months ago while they were getting there oil done there mechanic said they would just remove the harness and tie the wires together without the harness to prevent the possibility of a new harness corroding as well. but after doing so there rear defogger no longer works so somewhere they did something wrong but with the harness no there anymore I cant really tell myself.
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If you get a f!ashing cel ,the next time you start it should it flash right away or can it go back to solid on cell? 02 Accent 1.6 130 k. What can be done to check the flex pipe for a leak? Can you spray water or what? The outside looks good. Also looks hard to check around intake manifold for leaks.
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It seems that my left brake light is always on. I tried replacing the bulb, but that didn't do anything. I also had someone look at a switch underneath my break pedal.
I did had in the paste a problem with my trunk light, and got that resolved. Does any of those wires have anything to do with that light? What else it could be? Trunk light on dashboard
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My sister is having an odd issue on her 3-door accent. The hatch-open indicator light is on all the time. But when you press the brake pedal the light goes out. She has to disconnect the battery every night so it won't wear down.
Most of the suggestions were to check the sensor/latch at the hatch. But if the light is going out when you press the brake pedal - then the problem is nothing to do with the sensor. I think it might be a bad ground somewhere. I've taken the sensor/latch completely apart - the problem is not there.
She had this problem a few years ago. I wiggled and pulled on every harness under the dash, and I removed, checked, and reinstalled the rear bulbs. I don't think any of that worked, but eventually the light went out on its own. But now the problem is back. I think the problem might go away and come back depending on the moisture in the air.
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Just curious as I don't see the check engine light on my Accent 2004 GVS. Not even when I insert the key in the starter switch.
My mechanic told me this model doesn't come with a check engine light which I cant believe.
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I have an Accent 2003 - 2 door hatchback and for a while the light stays on, on my dash that the trunk is open.. I checked the lock, and the switch, and they are all ok.
Funny thing is, when I press the brake pedal, then the light turns of. Thought I would just deal with it, but it's driving me insane, looking at that light. I had to remove the light bulb from my trunk, since it is staying on all the time, and it had drained the battery.
I found through google some wiring schematics, but doesn't look like it's 100% correct.. Are there any available for my car, or even better, what it could be? (Faulty wire?)
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My 2004 1.6 L accent does the following, no matter how much gasoline is or is not in the tank: Whenever I remove and replace the gas cap [which is brand new], as i drive away, the engine light flashes quickly about 20-25 times; rests for about 15 seconds and flashes again about 20-25 times. Thereafter it goes out for the rest of the drive. while it is flashing, the car idles roughly. This happens even if i only remove the cap to add some water absorbent or some injector cleaner. it also happens when i fill up the tank. by the way, i NEVER TOP UP. I always quit filling with gasoline when the pump goes "thunk." this has me completely stumped.
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Today I had to boost my car three times, once boosted, I was loosing power, my lights dimmed, and my rev-ometer had stopped working.
My father said it would be a connector cable, the battery was very corroded. I just had my cat-converter replaced wednesday. today is the first time i've had this issue, i've had the car for just over a month now.
I'm really hoping its not my alternator. Because that would suck.
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I own a 2000 accent. Broke down, called racq, they said it was electrical problem with fuel pump and my car would kick over after someone cranks it and another person bangs the underside of the fuel tank a few times(exterior). then broke down again and car wouldn't start at all, had no spark would only crank not kick over, I took it to a mechanic and he found out it was the fuel relay switch so he replaced that and the car was running again, however it was only running on 3 cylinders and the fuel light would flash/turn on for seconds/ flick on and off even with a full tank.
Took it back to the mechanic and he said the fuel lines were blocked and needed new fuel filter so after he fitted all that was still running terrible, would misfire, fuel light still flashed and driving it around drank the fuel. Found out that it was the first cylinder that was the problem. I changed the sparkplugs and no difference
So I went to a car wreckers and replaced the 1st fuel injector (got it for 5 dollars off an accent that was wrote off from the back end) once i fitted the injector it started to run better. It is now running at about 75%. doesnt go as hard as it use to, still misfires, still drinking the fuel and the fuel light is always off and on when I am driving. It has low revs in idle mode so it rattles/shakes heavily as well and smell of fuel in the back seats every now and then.
oh and a side note - drove it a few nights ago and the clutch pedal is 'loose'... as in the grab is near enough clutch in 7/8ths of the way(near the floor) and when the clutch is fully out there is alot of 'play' which is when you press the clutch in a quarter of the way its nothing, no tension or anything just floppy, but im not 100% sure if the clutch cable needs tightening or something worse( i only replaced clutch about 2 months ago so it couldn't be burnt out?)
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