Accent LC (2000-05) :: Oil Leak On Front Of Engine Towards Radiator
Apr 23, 2013
I have a oil leak that has developed on front of engine (towards radiator). How hard is it to replace the gaskets necessary to stop the leak. I have done valve covers on a older dodge.
This engine looks like it is going to be more than one simple gasket. What research i have done also recommends i replace the injector o rings as well. Is there a kit that contains all i will need? How long would you expect it to take? IE a weekend enough time?
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I bought the little car to get off my motorcycle and its done great. But, after a couple trips around town my check engine light came on, and I imiditely noticed a change in my idle and engine performance. Im assuming my engine changed the air/fuel ratio to account for the sensor indications. My initial code read came back with four codes which said something about spark, and O2 sensor, and emissions. I went ahead put new spark plugs, gaped them as well as replaced the first O2 sensor.
After that I reconnected my battery and sure enough no engine light and my idle felt even better than before. (by the way my old plugs looked normal) But shortly down the road the light came on again. My idle did become a little different but not like my first encounter with the engine light. My power too seems a bit degraded, as well as the engine's sound. As of right now I am only reading one code P0422, which I do not see in the manual. I read online that its probably my catalytic converter or my engine is running at an improper air/fuel ratio. I am praying that it is not my catalytic converter and just my engine computer throwing things off.
Other things which may serve as clues:
Slight valve cover gasket leak (I will change the gasket when I do my timing belt job along with other seal and probably the water pump)
When pumping gas I can get about 90 cents in at a time, now more like 40 cents since the Saudis lowered our gas prices. Assuming I've got some kind of venting problem.
Car has 107K manual shift.
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I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima with 177K. I'm planning on getting a new car in a few months. The radiator has a small leak at the top. Is a product such as Barr's stop leak a viable solution to get me through a few months or will it cause problems?
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My 2000 Accent with 164,000km is not overheating but is dumping coolant into the reservoir so that the radiator is about a quart low. I did have a few problems with it overheating in the past month, but that was solved by thermostat removal (always above 80F here). I stopped before the overheats reached the redline and allowed the engine to cool before continuing, no known adverse performance during the overheats. No water in oil.
Failed troubleshooting:
Drained and replaced coolant x3
New radiator cap
* No thermostat.
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Do I buy an engine or sell the car for parts? My son’s car overheated while driving down the hwy due to a radiator leak. After a first and second opinion, two separate mechanics told me the engine has no compression so basically was shot. The car was in good shape with 102k miles and everything worked. Internet surfing has some used engines with 80-100k miles from $800-$1200, some guaranteed some not. Is it better to rebuild the original engine or buy another used one? Labor cost on top of an engine wont be cheap. Are other parts under the hood expected to be replaced too as a result of the engine overheating?
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Having an issue with my 03' Accent. I'm having an issue of my coolant tank filling up but it is not being drawn back into the radiator when the engine cools down. I have replaced the radiator with a new unit because the filler neck of the original radiator was damaged sometime in the past and the cap would not seal good enough to hold pressure . Looks like heat damage to me but I don't know for sure. The system now holds pressure but now I'm having the current issue. My first thought was a head gasket issue creating pressure in the system and forcing coolant into the tank.
The car has 155k miles and runs good overall and is not overheating. I performed a "block check" test using the chemical method that detects combustion gasses in the cooling system and that test was negative. I also pressure tested the system by pressurizing to 16 psi and was unable to detect any leaks anywhere on the engine / radiator and the pressure did not drop until I released it. I guess the next thing to try will be a compression test to see if I have any low cylinders. So, for whatever reason my cooling system is not creating enough of a vacuum to draw the coolant back into the radiator when it cools down. Does this sound like a head gasket issue? The pic is of the original radiator filler neck damage.
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I was teaching my kid how to drive in a parking lot and noticed white smoke coming from the front when parked. There seems to be a leak on the top side of the radiator, where the plastic top connects to the aluminum body. I also noticed that radiator fan does not come up at all. Outside temp was around 40F but I would think it should have come on when driving at 5-15 mph in a parking lot for 1+ hours. Temp gauge is on the left side of the middle indicator so technically the engine is not overheated, unless the temp probe is bad. What's the best way to troubleshoot this? I have a 2005 Santa Fe 3.5L GLS FWD.
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My truck just passed the 3 year/36k by 2 days! I got it on 8/4/10 but it only has 27,000 miles of course I just found a puddle of coolant under the right front drivers side. After a little reading, I guess this is common. Should I push for Ford to fix it or get an extended warranty and turn it in on that or... Aftermarket yet that isn't half plastic like this stock POS?
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I have approximately 66,000 miles on my 2013 F250 truck and noticed a small drip from the front drivers side around 40,000 miles. That random drip is now a leak and the truck will be going into the shop to replace the Primary Radiator.
I absolutely love this truck, but what a disappointment that this isn't a recall. What scares me is that my buddy who has a 2014 F250 will be going in for his second primary radiator in 3 years of ownership.
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I drove an Avante 09. Recently, my car was breakdown due to engine overheated, as radiator coolant is dry out and noticed there is a hole in in the pipe and hence cause leakage in the system. As the breakdown was happened in johor bahru, I have no choice but towed my car to hyundai msia dealer workshop in JB. However, after they check, they refuse to repair it due to the reason they do not have the spare parts, as my version is 1600cc and msia version is 2000cc.
Thereafter, I towed my car to the workshop in JB, recommend by my friend in JB. After they checking, the said my engine block is made of aluminum, very easy get out of shape when overheated. They say by changing the headset parts will not completely solved the problem, said to completely solve the issue must changed the engine block. To me, by changing the engine block equivalent changing the whole engine, am i correct?
Any bro here facing engine overheated due to dry out of coolant? Can cause such a big issue? In fact I am a bit doubt on their diagnosis. I don't really think the overheat will cause the engine block damage.
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I'm not sure if my car is an R32 but it is a mkIV GTI V6. There is a small radiator in front of the front passenger wheel and air is ducted from the front air scoops into the radiator. What is it cooling? I searched for a transmission radiator but nothing came up. I can only speculate that it is to cool engine oil or transmission oil. Is that correct and if so what is it called?
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I am fixing the front of my 2000 Ranger? I need to replace everything from the radiator support fwd. I need to know how to get the radiator support out.
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I drive a 2005 Accent. Approximately a few months ago, I noticed water leaking in the passenger floor and near the kick plate. So I soaked up the water and put a bit of foil over the right side of the windshield, directly on the cowl cover. That seemed to do the trick. I then removed it the next day when the rain stopped. A few days later it rained again, but this time, there was no leak. It rained off-and-on for weeks and the leak never came back. Recently we've had some heavy rain, and the leak has returned.
What could be causing this, especially since the leak only seems to happen in heavy rain? I'd like to take the cowl cover off and look at the fresh air intake, but I snapped off one of those plastic rivets that holds it down, and I don't know where to buy replacements.
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Just had the timing belt done and water pump installed last week and just now noticed this oil leak. I can't figure out where it would be coming from . 10 seconds after I fired up the car it starts coming out.
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2002 Accent GS, automatic 1.6L engine ... Have a leak in the Power Steering system and I was wondering if it was safe to take the Power steering pump belt off just to get to my mechanic (who is about 18 miles (27 Km) away). I would rather not get towed, but I don't want to do any damage either. I am not all that mechanically capable but think I can get the belt off myself.
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I've been getting bad gas mileage for the past two years or so. I also get a fume smell when I run the car for a while. I have strong suspicion there might be a leak in one of the exhaust gaskets.
I'll be changing the exhaust manifold gasket and both exhaust flange gaskets. I'll also be changing both O2 sensors. The car runs well and smooth. It's just those two things.
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The truck has 64k miles and has developed a small leak on the engine side of the radiator with no apparent damage. There is no variation on the pressure test and the dealer was able to find the very small leak with dye in the system. It has lowered by about 3/4 of a gallon of coolant over the last couple of months. There are no visible signs of a leak but you smell the coolant when you stop the truck.
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This began as a troubleshooting exercise for a P0442 code (2002 model) indicating a leak in the evap emissions system. Often caused by simple things like a loose/poorly sealing filler cap. Not this time
It's a neat design, tucked away up in the fender well. Even sports a very effective stone guard (plastic shield) which hides all that tubing from view. But the shield also traps all the road salt and mud and packs it into the crevices between the tubes where it stays from one winter till the next. Even a powerful car wash probably can't dislodge the caked on mess once solidified.
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Currently throwing both P0441 and P2096, just prior to this I was also throwing P0442.
Read around on web and decided the simplest thing it could be would be the fuel cap, may as well start there. Owners manual even recommends changing at 90k. Got a replacement from advanced (which is supposed to be built to OEM specs), re-set battery light stayed off, attempted to pass emissions but a few systems were "not ready". Was good for 80ish miles. Light came back on throwing P0441 and P2096. I re-tightened fuel cap and re-set battery, light went off.
Did some maintenance; spark plugs, air filter, oil/filter change and replaced the leaky oil pan. Keep putting on miles hoping to get to the recommended 200 mile mark before stopping by the emissions testing facility, 105 miles after re-set same codes came back. I'm almost positive I replaced a o2 sensor 2ish years ago for emissions. Also there is an obvious exhaust leak which could be a culprit. I seem to remember reading somewhere that a weak battery can cause problems with fuel pressure... not sure if it's true or not but for what it's worth I do know my battery is on it's last leg.
I'd like to avoid unnecessary fixes, it's only my winter car so as long as it's nothing major I'm not going to dump money in it. I'm going to take a guess and say the check engine light is coming on when these systems become ready. Plan is to try this re-set one more time hope for the best and if not replace exhaust or at least repair leak. Not sure on my next step for P0441 though. Vehicle is a 2004 Hyundai accent with 86k on it.
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Recently replaced the head and gasket on 2010 accent blue. Torqued to factory specs. There is an oil leak between the head and block in the front driver side. Can i tighten that bolt? Is there a break in period, do i need to re-torque or buy another gasket and head bolts?
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So my accent with a manual trans has a small leak at the slave cylinder for the clutch. I am driving home and it's shifting hard. I get home pull up to where I live and push In the clutch and the car feels like the clutch is not pushed in. RPMs drop and car stalled. Look under hood and see not fluid in clutch master cylinder. Fill with fluid and pump pedal. I get some pedal back but the car will not crank. Nothing. I have accidentally cranked car when in gear in the past and there did not seem to be a safety switch as the car would move if my foot was not on brakes.
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