After changing the battery on the 2005 Accent, problem now is: no power windows, no radio, no air/heating fan, battery light always stays on. Checked all fuses in box besides driver seat an all OK. Rest of electrical seems ok ( int. and ext. lights, lighter, etc...). I would really really like not to have to bring it to the dealer.
View 4 RepliesI just changed out the battery in a separate issue I'm having with the car being dead every time after being left overnight. After changing the battery I had a new problem. The power windows wont work from the drivers side master panel. They worked fine before I changed the battery. There are a million posts online about resetting each window and that's great except for one problem. It doesn't work.
After the battery is unhooked the window switches all blink twice with a long pause. So, I follow the procedure and put the key in the ON position and roll each window down half way (reset and tried it rolling down all the way too) and then roll it back up continuing to hold the window switch in the up position for 1 full second after the window goes all the way up(some methods online variously say to hold it up for 12 seconds or 20 seconds. I tried them all). The blinking light goes out and the auto up/down feature works as expected from that specific window but no dice from the drivers master control.
One other oddity is that the window lock doesn't function anymore. On or off, each window will continue to operate from its own switch.
So I have been having this little issue for a few weeks now. I will be driving along and out of nowhere my batt light will come on and my gauge cluster,radio and windows stop working and the ficim volts jump to 15.5-16.5. This is an intermittent issue. Yesterday I put my multi meter on the alternator and I am reading 13.5 or so this number was done at idle and the batt light was NOT on .
View 14 RepliesIn May the driver's side window mechanism (motor + "window regulator" are the primary parts) self destructed on my 2002 Hyundai Accent and left the window stuck in the down position. Since the car only has 35,000 miles on it, and since I live in a cold climate and didn't lower the windows much, I concluded it was a manufacturing failure.
So rather than spend about $700 to have the mechanism redone, I elected for 1/10 as much money to have a body shop remove the mechanism and wedge up the window in the up position permanently with blocks and screws. Since I was told by a couple of mechanics that this type of failure occurs in other vehicles, I was still sticking by Hyundai and planning to buy another one 3-5 years from now.
But I have been forced to change my plans. Today (in September) the passenger side window mechanism self destructed and, once again, left the window stuck in the down position! Naturally, I am going to have the same solution applied to the passenger side window now. As a result of this (and an unbelievable brake problem that I don't have time to get into) I have been forced to change my mind and can no longer support Hyundai.
I have a 2000 Ford Windstar Van with 155,000 miles on it. A problem has developed with the electrical system/components. The van will start and run fine. With the engine running, there is no instrumentation, power windows do not work, wind shield wipers do not work, radio does not work, heater blower motor does not work. After the engine has been shut off, the radio will work, windows will work, door locks until such time as you open the door, then all quits. With the key in accessory, the windows work, door locks work, radio works, etc. The neutral module was replaced (the old one, none of the contacts appeared to be burnt). Ford dealer spent an hour trouble shooting - checked body modules (2) - found nothing.
View 4 Replies2004 Accent 1.6L
Changed the timing belt and water pump this past weekend. I made sure the timing marks aligned before I put the belts on. They were still aligned after turning the engine by hand and still aligned after taking the car out for a test drive. I did not notice rough idle when I started the engine in the garage nor did I notice a rough idle during the test drive.
A few days later I am now noticing the car will idle roughly when I come to a stop. The idle will get rough enough to gently shake the car. No engine light and no unusual noise from the engine.
I am going to check the timing marks again tonight. I suspect the belt may actually be off by one tooth. I have driven over 100 miles since changing the belt so I don't believe it is off anymore than one tooth or else I presume I'd probably have already broken down or been hearing unusual noises.
Furthermore, I do not seem to have any loss in power. I still have good acceleration and no roughness unless at idle engine speed. I do, however, run rough at higher speeds (75+ mph) on the highway, but this was present before the timing belt change. Unfortunately the car does not have an RPM gauge.
Having said all of this, are there any other possible reasons why I might be idling rough now?
Few issues I am having with my 2004 Hyundai Accent GL Automatic 1.6 with 150k.
The first issue is the idle speed. The car idles between 1500 and 1800 RPM no matter if you just start it or if you drive it 200 miles. I have replaced the IAC valve, and that didn't change anything. I cant seem to find any vacuum leaks.
The second issue I am having is that the engine cooling fans do not come on when it gets up to temp.
I replaced the coolant temp sensor, and that didn't seem to work. I also tried swapping the relays, but nothing happened so I just pulled the relay for the cooling fan and ran a jumper wire so the fans run all the time while the car is running. It keeps the car cool, and I can drive it, but I want it to work right.
The third issue is that the car sometimes bogs out when you are pulling out or in traffic with the AC on. It almost sputters and hesitates when you try to go. It runs great at highway speeds. Could these issues all be tied together maybe the same problem?
There is no electric power (no lights, no dash indicators, no starting, nada...) New battery just put in.
More background: old 'beater' hyundai, manual trans, not sure of year but older one (looks a lot like the picture for this forum). It was sitting in storage for over a year and was driven in to that slot. It belonged to my son's friend who just gave it to him. Was going to drive it away (tires, oil ok) but of course would not start. no lights will come on, interior or exterior. turning key in ignition to any position makes no difference - still no power to anything. Battery cables seem ok. Could find no blown fuses, either inside or under the hood.
So, what are we missing? What is the magical fix that will quickly get this thing on the road (we want to stop the storage fees too).
So my radiator fans were staying on until my battery died and my car was completely cooled down and off. I was told it was a sticking relay so I replaced it and the fans still won't come on. I unplugged the coolant temp sensor and the fans came on so I know its not the motors or anything.
View 5 Replies08 RX 350. Just changed battery. New Bosch battery. Issue: After battery change, passenger windows don't work from the driver's master window switch cluster. I'm assuming this is the result of some sort of memory being wiped out during the battery change. Or perhaps a blown fuse during power up while connecting the new battery.
View 7 RepliesI just changed my batteries in my truck. Twas the originals still in it. Afterwards, everything works except the radio. I tried everything and no radio. The clock is there when I press the On/Off/Volume. When I press the phone, the display says "no phone". But otherwise I get nothing. I can't even get in the menu to set the clock. I checked the fuses related to the Amp, Subwoofer, radio, Satellite, etc. I did not see anything in the fused under the hood that could be related.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2004 F250. Owned it for a little less than 4 miles (186k on the odometer) .. The other day making a routine run and the radio goes out. Stopped to check it out and found I had no power windows either.
Made it home, checked the fuse on the radio and its good and the the power window fuse is also good. Put a meter on the terminals and have no voltage going to them. What I need to look at???
I have a 2002 sienna that will lose power to radio, air conditioner, power windows, surges when going down the road. So far it only last for a little while. And for a while now there has been times y…
View 2 RepliesI now have a 2002, 7.3, 250, 4x4 and love it. Everything but the milege. All in all it's a great ride. I have one little problem that's driven me nuts.
The power windows and the radio go out occasionally. Both at the same time. They come back on...... sometimes. Sometimes it takes a day or two. I've checked the fuses and then saw that there is a breaker in the 601 location in the fuse box that's probably causing the problem.
But I thought that it was supposed to shut off to protect that circuit when there is a short somewhere. I don't know where to go or how to locate the short if in fact this is my problem.
On my 2003 powersteering the windows and radio will just quit working. Then they will come on again. Maybe in and hour or a day or a week. Where do I sart.
View 6 RepliesI had my oil changed at 40,000. I am at 42,500 right now . My " change oil soon light " . Seem like a little soon ! Plus I am 5 hours from home on a ski trip. I have checked oil level it fine. Will I be fine to drive it home 5 hours back to my local dealership for oil change? Or should I find a place up here? What would cause the light to come on so soon ? I am new to this truck . My old 7.3 did not have all the BS that this truck has .
View 6 RepliesMy buddy is selling his truck in a couple days and was taking out speakers, afe intake, and satelite radio. I go to start the truck and i have no power to windows, no power to radio and no domelight when i switch it on and off. Dont know what i did but none of this works and everything else does.
I checked all fused all were good. I searched the forum for a solution and they said something about the automatic delay relay and i bought a new one and nothing still. I am not sure what else to do i checked with voltmeter if i had anypower to the window or radio and nothing. But the radios clock works and when i turn on the light it illuminates but doesnt turn on.
The truck is a 2002 7.3L Crewcab. f350
I did an oil change recently, as I have done many times in the past, but this is the first time different noise like this could be heard.
I had synthetic in there before (mobil 1 + mobil 1 filter) because it was on sale for a ridiculous price, and I figured I would try it out. I now have Shell oil in the engine and it is the same weight (10w-30) as always. It is dino oil, supposedly with synth blend or something, and I also installed another synth filter.
I now have some minor valvetrain noise, a little louder than normal, and a tick that is loud - which is the part that really worries me.
Should I go back to synthetic, or should I look at the top end? I opened the valve cover, but nothing looks wrong at a quick glance.
I have a 98 gp gt. I have no power going to the radio, sunroof, steering wheel controls, or power windows in the fuse panel I have virtually ripped this car apart and still no clue why I'm not getting power.
View 3 RepliesMy 2005 Accent will be due for a transmission oil change soon. (105,000.00mi). I have never done a transmission oil change before and I was wondering if it is necessary to change the filter as well. The maintenance manual says change the oil it does not mention the filter. I'm not crazy about removing the oil pan unless it is recommended.
View 5 RepliesI just changed the timing belt and everything runs great. I pushed the AC button and no light came on. I checked all the fuses and they are good I took the H and L caps of and tapped the pin and there was air blasting out. Don't know what it could be? All I did was loosen the compressor and remove the belt and put it back on.
View 2 Replies