Accent LC (2000-05) :: No Power To Fuel Pump
Feb 28, 2015
Have power at fuel pump relay but no power at pump harness. Replaced fuel pump but on a budget and I dont know what else to do.
View 6 RepliesHave power at fuel pump relay but no power at pump harness. Replaced fuel pump but on a budget and I dont know what else to do.
View 6 RepliesMy 2000 Hyundai accent gl will not start. I have realized it is the because its not getting fuel. the fuel pump is new but not getting power.. there are 5 wires coming from the pomp which is the ground wire?
View 2 Replies2002 accent with 70k on it the 1.6L
Here is the problem, the car sat for two years and when getting her back to life it would start so i started testing everything i could find. here what I get
Gets spark
Power to the cam and crank sensor.
All fuses and relays are good.
Found out the ecm was not grounding the engine control relay to turn on the pump and injectors so i added my own ground to the grey/orange wire and the pump turned and and it fired right up.?
so my question is what does the ecu look for to turn on this relay?
It was fine for a few days but now even with the relay grounded (activated) the car doesn't start . but let it sit and try again in ten mins and it will start every other time I come home from work and try....but i do still get power to the pump and injectors.? There might be a electrical monster in this car but I don't know what else to check.
I have another accent same year so I switch the ecu and every relay i could find over from the run ing car and i still have this problem, also changed the cam and crank sensor, so I am at a dead stop.
Woke up this morning with a dead battery got a boost and realized that DRL, chime, dome light, dash lights and fuel pump are always on (can hear the fuel pump turning) even when the key is removed. The car will start but i have to remove the positive terminal to prevent a dead battery. Check all the fuses and the 2 diodes all is good. If I pull the 2 head light fuses in the engine bay the fuel pump slows down and the head light go on (The drl turn off).
View 10 RepliesI own a 2003 accent and it would start then go but stall, when let sit for some time it would start back up, I have changed all two relays and pump and filter but now it wont start at all. I don't seem to have power to pump as I have hose off and when i turn it over no gas comes out of pump and no sound!!
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 Accent GL SOHC 1.5 won't start. It has plenty of battery power to crank over. The fuel pump is not cycling, so I assumed that was the problem and replaced it. Still no fuel pump when the key is turned.
I've read on here how it could be a Crank Position Sensor or a Camshaft Position sensor. I measured the resistance of the Crank Position sensor and got 800 ohms. The specs are [0.486 ~ 0.594kΩ at 20 C (68F)].
I also tried testing ground and voltage to the Camshaft position sensor. With key on, I wasn't getting voltage there (read .028 VDC or so), but the Crank position sensor was also removed. I'm not sure if that has any affect on the test.
So, What is the most likely culprit here? Obviously I'm not familiar with most of the sensors and troubleshooting them.
I have a 2003 Hyundai Accent with 166K on it. A couple of weeks ago I drove it and for an hour and parked, then after several hours I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. I had it looked at and found out that the fuel pump was not buzzing. I replaced it, it started and I drove it for a couple days then it died and didn't start again. It cranked but wouldn't start. To get it to start again, I had to spray starter fluid and then was able to drive it home. A couple of days later, while I was idling at a traffic light, it died. The engine cranked but it wouldn't start. I used starter fluid again and got it home. Once I use starter fluid it runs fine, like nothing is wrong with it. There is no fault code present. I replaced the fuel relay, fuel pressure regulator, ECU, fuel filter and spark plugs but I still have the same issue. What else do I need to replace? The car will start sometimes and sometimes it won't. Sometimes it will start fine without starter fluid and then other times when it randomly shuts off, I have to use it. I was going to replace the crank positioning sensor but since the car starts with starter fluid I think it may have something to do with the fuel.
View 3 RepliesAccent that will crank but won't start. I found out that the fuel pump was not spinning, so I purchased a replacement. Before installing it, I connected all of the wires and the new pump wouldn't spin either. I then hooked the pump directly to the battery and it spins with no problems. After that I realized that the power wire for the pump must be shorting somewhere. So I hooked up the old pump and ran a new power wire from the relay box to the pump. The pump now runs, but the car still won't start. I definitely have fuel to the rail now. I unhooked the fuel line at the fuel rail and it sprays as soon as I turn the key to "On". Now all I need to know is if I'm forgetting something (bleeding the fuel rail?, etc.). Are there any other parts I'm forgetting?
View 24 RepliesIn the mornings when I turn the ignition switch to on right before starting, I don't hear the fuel pump wining. I notice the wining on almost every other car that Ive drove. I don't know if its because of this I get a rough start. It usually happens only in the mornings especially on cold days. During the rest of the day I can hear it clear and it turns on right away with no problem. I have tried to turn the ignition switch on then off then back on to see if the pump would turn on but nothing. Also sometimes I have to keep the gas pedal down about half ways for it to turn on and not stall. Tomorrow I am going to check to see if any fuel lines are clogged.
Car is a 2000 accent gs 1.5l 12sohc ... With about 87500 miles on it ...
Anything I should replace with these many miles ... Planning to replace spark plugs and timing belt myself ...
I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent that just started not filling up. The pump kicks off every couple seconds. From reading other posts it sounds like its the evap canister (wife would often top off the tank). The question is, does the evap canister need replaced or do the hoses need cleaned? Is there an easy way to get the hoses off?
View 4 RepliesMotor has been stalling intermittently since May. Finally had the fuel pump replaced last Friday (8/17/12). have been driving the car back and forth to work since then with no problems until yesterday. Made a run to the local convenience store and the car was shut down for about ten minutes. Came back out and car would not start! Gave it about 10 minutes and then it started again. Got it into the garage and let it run for awhile and it stalled out. Got the check engine light (a first for that) so swapped the fuel pump relay with one of the same part number. Fired right up and did not stall out.
Also, check engine light went out on its own. Swapped relays back to original positions, motor started right up, stayed running and check engine light went out on its own. What could be causing my problem? Since check engine light came on then went out on its own, would there be any trouble codes to read? One other thing, original relay has pinkish residue on the pins. What could that be about? First time poster so I hope what I have typed out makes sense. 2003 Accent 4 door with 1.6L DOHC motor. Approx 79000 miles.
My car is a 2002 Accent. So last weekend I replaced my timing belt and my 3 other belts. Before I did this the belts were not squeaking and I was not having any issues with my power steering. I started my car up and the power steering pump was making lots of noise, the power steering reservoir was still full. I was told it's probably the power steering pump and that I would need a new one. So I got a new one, put it on and still the same thing. I looked online and saw that it may be an air bubble in the line so I removed the cap on the reservoir and, with the car turned off and the front wheels off the ground, cranked the wheels lock to lock about 20 times. I started the car and it still makes noise. This morning the power steering felt like it was lagging as I was backing out of my driveway and the squeaking happens when I am idling and gets louder and worse up to about 2000 rpm then stops, which it has been doing since I replaced the belts. I am not sure what else to do, did I mess up the new pump by driving and not bleeding the air out?
View 2 RepliesWhere the fuel pump is located on a 2000 F-350 7.3L Diesel? Also, how complex is replacing this?
View 14 RepliesOne morning I went to start my 2000 Accent, 1.5L Auto and the engine couldn't get going. I had road service come look at it and they said the problem was the fuel pump, I then got the car towed home. I changed the fuel pump and everything was working great again. I then changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil filter and flushed/refilled the oil. I used the car very lightly for a few days and had no problems.
Then yesterday I took the car about a 30 min drive, when on a main road my engine begun loosing power and I couldn't accelerate, as if the engine was not getting fuel. I managed to pull over safely and after about 30 mins of not getting anywhere I decided to hit around my fuel tank/pump with my club lock many times and what do you know the car starts and I manage to drive it about 25 mins, I was almost home when the same thing happened. I pulled over, waited, hit the tank and finally drove all the way home.
When I originally changed the fuel pump everything seemed fine, the plastic pump housing and everything attached to it appeared in great condition. So my hunch is that the problem would be where the fuel actually enters the engine block? The way that everything works fine until driving for roughly 25 mins makes me think the problem may be dependent on the temperature of the engine, given that's the main variable that changes?
So, I just had the fuel pump replaced on my '15 6.7 a month ago and it just died again. (next day edit: it didn't actually die, it showed all the same symptoms)
Same symptoms: whining sound, low fuel pressure warning, reduced power warning.
This time I'm 50 miles from home so I pulled off the road before it shut off. Interesting, I was in a hilly area and my low fuel warning came on too. We are waiting for a tow. I was considering trying to push on but don't want to get stuck in a dangerous spot on the highway. We're in a church parking lot.
So, last time this happened I was on flat road with about a half tank of fuel on a lunch break. I ran a mile after the warnings came on to feel out the issue and to see what would happen. I happened to be only about a mile away from my dealer so I drove that way. I got reduced power warning and then it cut power on me (limp mode). I made it to about 100 yards away before it cut off.
This time, I was in a hilly area at night on a windy two lane road with no shoulders in the woods. I was miles from civilization and was showing below a quarter tank of fuel. ~100 miles to EMPTY. I got the low fuel pressure warning first and then the reduced power mode before the whining noise started. I was climbing a hill on a curve at the time. I drove a quarter mile and then pulled off the road into a parking lot so I wouldn't be stuck on the shoulder. It didn't actually go into limp mode.
I let it sit a few minutes, talked it over with the wife and decided to call for a tow. After talking to the tow truck driver who said he would be an hour because he had to go find a bigger truck, I decided to see what I could do while I wait. I fired it back up and the fuel level dropped to below 1/8 and I was now showing 33 miles to EMPTY. I was parked on a hill with the back end up. I had backed the truck into a space to make it easier for the tow truck driver. I let it run a minute, checked for leaks and it seemed to run fine with no studdering or additional warning lights.
CEL was on but no new warnings. I put in my code reader and pulled the P0087. Just one code. I revved it a bit to see if there were any issues. It seemed fine so I decided to try my luck. I started driving towards home with the intention to stop at the first diesel station to fill up. Truck ran fine. After two minutes of driving gently, heart racing, my fuel level came back up and it now read 88 miles to EMPTY. I drove 11 miles to the nearest station and filled up. No issues. I shut it down. I fired it back up. Still no issues so with a full tank, I drove home the remaining 30 miles without issue.
Planning to take it in to the dealer Monday to get it checked. Could this be from an air pocked due to low fuel level and hilly terrain? Is my new pump dying already? Is there something else going on inside the tank or elsewhere?
It was acting rough and was a little loud. Like a low deep loud, the engine light came on. I tried to start it, it would crank but no start.
Code came up P0340 (Cam sensor) So i replaced it, reseted and scanned again, now it says P0343 To much input sensor 1 bank 1. When i turn the key over to "ON" I don't hear the fuel pump, is this normal?
I don't understand what to do I am so lost, I am ready to do the timing. Is there something cutting my fuel pump out or is it done? Do i do the timing, or replace the pump ...
I have my aux fuel tank pump hooked to upfitter 3. It has worked perfectly until this week. I started to transfer fuel and the aux fuel gauge and fuel pump both quit. The led on upfitter switch 3 still illuminates, but no fuel pump. I found fuse 9 on passengers kick panel is for upfitter 3. The fuse was good. Is there another fuse somewhere for the circuit I've missed? I can trouble shoot the wiring if necessary, but it's tough to do all behind the left side underbed box and not easy to get to. I've missed something simple before I go further????
View 14 Replies01 7.3. Cranks, won't start. Tank was at 1/4 but is full now. The lift pump runs, I can feel and hear that the motor is spinning when I cycle the key. I removed the fuel filter and cycled the key and get no fuel into the bowl. It looks like the lines are stainless from the pump to the tank so I doubt it is sucking air. I pressurized the tank with a shop vac and I get fuel coming into the filter housing. Am I missing something obvious? I have never seen an electric pump that would run and not pump fuel. I removed the suction line at the pump and don't feel any suction there.
View 14 RepliesStuck 398 miles from home. Car kept losing power, running out of fuel (even though I had a quarter tank). Stopped and filled it, but could only barely get to next exit. Step on gas- no go. Let off gas, car catch back up and run. Wife noticed definite new sound in back. Took her many miles and comments before it finally sunk in and I remembered the same groaning noise from a fuel pump going out on a cabrio. So, fuel pump bad.
Am preparing to go out and jump terminals, as per bentley manual. That should tell if it is transfer pump or fuel pump. My main concern now is are the pumps under the rear seat or in the trunk?
By the way, I made it to a motel (lucky enough one that accepts pets!)
My pickup is giving me trouble, replaced fuel pumpand filter, flashed computer, cam sensor seems to be fine...truck will run one day then will not start on another....1500.GMC year 2000.....5.3 litre motor auto trans 4x4... Thinking on replacing computer as a last ditch effort..when we hook the computer analyzer it shows no problems...
View 3 RepliesRecently, my Accent has been acting up (twice) while filling the tank. I haven't done any work on it that would cause this recently, but while fueling, the pump will click and stop repeatedly, as if the tank was full. It takes sometimes 20 minutes just to put 8 gallons in it. I've tried two separate pumps. Next fill-up, I'll try a different gas station because I've heard that can sometimes be a problem. They said their pumps weren't empty so that's not the case.
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