Accent LC (2000-05) :: Need To Push Clutch Really Hard To Allow The Gear To Engage?
Jul 29, 2014
2001 Accent 1.5 GL 165K miles.
The clutch doesn't engage until it's on the floor. I have to push real hard to allow the gear to engage. It then shifts... sometimes smoothly, sometimes it takes a hard push of the gear shifter, or it grinds until getting into gear.
I've changed the master cylinder twice in about 3 years but those times the pedal had no spring and just fell to the floor and stayed. Now, the pedal has spring (I push it to the floor and it springs back) so I assume the MC is ok. I even bled it with fresh fluid.
I'm not sure if the tranny fluid has ever been changed. Would changing the fluid fix this problem or does it sound like I need a new clutch? I'm guessing it needs a new clutch (or corresponding parts) since I've had two MC's go bad in a few years.
The pedal, even when it's shifting smoothly is pretty non-responsive and still engages a little mushy (comparing it to my 2012 Elantra 6sp).
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Been having trouble shifting into any gears on these chilly mornings in VA now... The clutch has been sticking on its way out when I release it and the gears don't want to engage unless I really push hard on the shift knob.
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I own a out of warranty 2008 Accent manual, now on 94 000km/58 408 miles. This morning, it started to not engage 2nd gear, then when I press the pedal hard it does, then sometimes 4th gear. What could be at fault here, and how do I fix it?
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My clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad... 2007 Honda Accord Manual Transmission
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I'm not very mechanical when it comes to cars. I have never had any clutch issue with my car. I arrived to work yesterday fine. When I started to leave it was incredibly hard to get into reverse and I had to force shifting after I left and the clutch had also lost all resistance and I could easily push it all the way to the ground. What could be a cause of the clutch always working perfect including the last time you drove it, and then 8 hours later you start up and it has done a 180. The fluid level is fine. I would presume if my clutch had went I have have slowly noticed it going.
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Yesterday I was driving home and my clutch started acting up. To start I was unable to press the pedal. The pedal was super hard, then let up but didn't feel right.
I removed the slave and the pedal went down fine. Both the master and the slave have no leaking and fluid levels are good. I haven't been able to have a buddy look at the levels when I press the clutch, but....
Here is a little more, the car shifts fine with the car off, it goes into all the gears, but with the car on it will not shift into gear. Also there is a light grinding noise when I let the clutch out..
I ordered a clutch kit already, but don't want to pull the trans if I don't have to, I would love to hear the issue is with the master or slave.....
2005 Hyundai accent with 138,000 miles
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Bought a 2001 hyundai accent 1.3 si petrol manual 2 weeks ago. After pulling off today, i went to go into 2nd gear, and I couldn't move the gear stick. I parked up and turned the engine off, then started the ignition again. When the clutch is in, the gear stick will not move in any direction, its completely stuck, but when the clutch is out, the gear stick will move in all directions.
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I recently bought a 2002 Accent with the 1.6 auto 133000 miles. I have been reading the postS around here about the crappy transmission. My car seems to have some life in the tranny still but it has slipped from 3rd to 4th gear around 45 mph when i get on the gas too hard. Its also a little sluggish to start off. My question is should i change the fluid out knowing i have a slipping issue? The reason i ask is that last time i changed the fluid and filter on a Jeep that was slipping i ended up having to rebuid it. Is that a real possibility if i change the fluid in this Hyundai?
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The Accent has been working great recently until the other day when I got in to go to work and now it suddenly shifts very hard into 2nd. And sometimes 3rd.
This problem seems to come and go. Sometimes it will shift smoothly. Other times it will have to reach super high rpm and I will have to let off the gas and slowly accelerate to get it to shift. This seems to happen throughout all the gears and it does not make any difference if overdrive is turned on or off. Also reverse works just fine.
I checked the fluid and it is at the proper level. It does seem to be a little dirty (not burnt) so I am planning on changing the transmission fluid, but something tells me that is not going to solve this issue. It seems like an electrical issue to me. What it could be?
There are no codes at all on the car. Don't know if it matters but the car just turned over to 100k miles. I've been reading on here about all the problems the automatic trannys have in this car but 100k seems a bit early to have any serious transmission problems.
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Today I started my car (in the garage so it wasn't too cold) and everything was fine. The car warmed up in a couple minutes and I was off.
As i was driving, I noticed that my shifting was horrible. It felt like i was burning the clutch and not releasing the clutch smoothly in general.
I then noticed that when i pressed in the clutch ready to take the next gear, the engine would raise the rpm's about 500-1000 revs before coming down.
I started to wait till the revs came down to shift and that seems to work.
Why would the engine be revving itself higher the second after i push the clutch in. My dealer can't take me until Wednesday so I don't know what to do.
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I recently purchased a used 2001 Chevy Blazer with a manual transmission. In order to start it, I have to push very hard on the clutch, almost through the floor. Is there some type of adjustment to make starting a little easier? Also, when I push on the parking brake, it also goes right to the floor and seems like it barely engages.
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I've test driven a used 2003 (155K) I'm considering purchasing. But the clutch is so stiff, especially compared to my 93 Accord. What makes a new clutch, pressure plate a throw out bearing so hard to engage?
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I have a 2006 Mazda 6 with 104k on it. The clutch started sticking a couple weeks ago right where it would engage into gear, and I'd have to use my foot to pop it back up. It only happened here and there until finally, it stuck to the floor and became very difficult, if not impossible, to get out of gear. So everywhere I looked, it seemed that the slave cylinder was the culprit. I got a new one at AutoZone, replaced it yesterday, and the car ran great last night and this morning.
Then, this afternoon, in one 10 mile trip, it went back to the original problem. Stuck with every gear change, then stuck to the floor after I pushed it in and darn near wouldn't come out of gear. What in the world could be the problem?
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I have a 2001 m5r2 ford f-150 standard transmission. i have replaced the slave cyl., the entire clutch assy., the master cyl. pilot bearing. the trans. will engage all five gears plus reverse while truck is off but will not engage a gear while running. i have bled and bled and bled and still will not engage.
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Replaced original clutch on Subaru Forester at approx. 130,000 miles because of slipping. Drove car for a few days and clutch would judder once warmed-up when trying to engage 1st gear. Took car back to repair shop, they said pressure plate was defective/set too stiff and replaced that. Whole car now shudders when trying to engage in 1st gear once the car has warmed-up and particularly on (even a slight) hill. What's not working correctly? Seen some discussion on throw-out bearings, master/slave cylinders and oil on clutch. Unsure.
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About a year ago, I bled all 4 brakes and put in new fluid on my 01 Accent GS 1.6L auto. Still to this day, they are very spongy, and you have to push them far to get good stopping power. My pads are ok on the front, rear shoes are ok as well. No leak in lines anywhere. What's up with this?
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AC went out last week, was working great earlier that day. Checked under the hood and the clutch isn't engaging. Noticed an RPM spike every four seconds or so at idle when the AC was on. Checked voltage coming off the wires that go to the clutch and saw a voltage spike from essentially nothing to 9-12V which occurred in sync with the RPM spike. I poked a screw driver in the high pressure port and got a nice blast of coolant so I figured refrigerant isn't the issue.
Fuses are all good, in car and on battery. Replaced the fan control module and now there's no RPM spike and I get a constant 12v with the AC on at the clutch wire, but it still doesn't engage.
It's a 2000 Jetta 2.0 auto.
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I've got a 07 accent with 90k miles on it. It has recently started slipping some (revs high, while in gear, without accelerating, especially in 5th gear). It also can be physically hard to move the shifter into gear sometimes (with my hand).
So, does this mean I need a new clutch? Or are there other possibilities? Should I replace/fix anything with the clutch? Sounds like the flywheel should be resurfaced? Will it shift more smoothly after the fix?
Is this something a newb could do himself? I can change the oil, rotate tires. Outside of that I haven't done much. My toolset for now is fairly limited: two jackstands, a trolley jack, torque-wrench and ratchet sets.
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1988 Acura Legend, 2.7L 6 cyl., 181,000 miles only do 6,500 miles a year to train station, parked inside, runs great. Last week parked out in hot sun, '90s, for 8 hours. At first, no problem. When did errand and returned to car, pushed clutch pedal and it would not return or allow gear to engage. "Jammed" into 1st, then could not shift, shifted slightly by pulling up on clutch pedal with my foot. Parked overnight, cool, next morning seemed to be fine and crept to mechanic. Mechanic road tested and found no problem and now seems to be working okay. Would parking in sun, high heat cause "clutch cylinder" to "seize" or "freeze"? Is there a "fix"? Also, increasingly hard to get parts for this car.
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2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4.0L, in Palo Alto, CA.
My air conditioner clutch stops engaging after driving in hot weather.
In hot weather (>80 degrees), when I first turn on the AC it blows nice and cold for up to 30 minutes, after which it gradually gets warmer and then hot air comes out. If I leave the AC on when it is blowing hot air, it will suddenly blow cold again (sometimes it takes a couple minutes for it to work again, sometimes it takes 30 minutes). Then the cycle repeats.The AC seems to be dependent on outside temperature: on very hot days ~95 degrees the AC will only work for ~5 minutes before blowing hot, 80 degree days the AC works longer, limited testing in cooler weather (at night ~60 degrees) AC always blows cold. When it is blowing hot air, the clutch on the compressor hasn’t engaged. When the AC is blowing cold, the clutch engages/disengages normally depending on how you set the temperature. I replaced the low pressure switch, did not change AC function. I recharged the AC, did not change AC function.Engine temperature reading always in normal range <210 degrees. Heater is working normally.
I’m pretty sure the clutch is getting the signals to engage. When the AC is working normally the engine revs slightly higher when AC clutch is engaged.Likewise, when the AC is blowing hot air and the clutch isn’t engaged the engine revs higher. And if I disconnect either the low or the high pressure switches the engine reduces to normal idling.
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own a 2005 Hyundai accent 1.6L engine. I replace the engine today. The previous engine had internal damage. The transmission I left alone. I didn't disconnect the wiring. I only removed the engine. The transmission worked flawless. When I turned on the car the engine sounds great and the transmission sshifted gears and the wheels were moving. The speedometer worked so then I turned the engine off and lowered the car down from the Jack stands and tired it shine but this time the transmission did not shift gears. I lifted the car back up and did still did not shift gears. The transmission does nothing. The checked the guild level and it's full. What can cause a transmission to suddenly stopped engaging gear?
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