Accent LC (2000-05) :: Motor Struggling From Low RPM Acceleration
Oct 15, 2015
My problem is this: when I am driving and press the throttle hard from low rpm (anything under 2000-2500), the car will struggle to pick up rpm, and be incredibly sluggish to accelerate, until it reaches around 3500 rpm, at which points it returns to normal. Whilst it is struggling to accelerate, the exhaust sound is almost like a subaru, in that there is a series of small burp noises which stop once it returns to normal acceleration. It only whilst attempting to accelerate from low rpm that I have this problem, i.e. idle plus mod-high rpm is fine.
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My poor old jeep is having some issues. Here's the stats: 94, 4.0 engine, 240k miles (jeeps am I right?). It started overheating on me so I start with replacing the thermostat. No dice. I noticed it was "weeping" coolant, so I replaced the water pump. No dice. It's still running hot and throughout the process of replacing things and test driving it is now struggling on accelerating/giving it gas to switch gears. It even out right died a couple times. (Air filter was gunky, replaced it.
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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Ozzy is a 2003 Hyundai Accent with an automatic transmission. Over the last 2 year he has been having a lot of problems with his transmission. The first thing that was done was to replace his transmission fluid. Unfortunately the chuckle head that replaced his transmission fluid put the wrong kind in and he had to have a whole new transmission installed. And now only about a year later Ozzy is having transmission problems yet again. What is happening is that it feels like the car is struggling to shift gears and then once in gear it will suddenly accelerate.
Also, the idle races even when your foot is not on the gas pedal and yes, the check engine light is on. So, I have a couple of questions. First how much longer can she keep driving it like this before the engine falls out somewhere on the 405? Secondly how much is it going to cost to repair Ozzy? Also her driving the car when it is behaving this way is really dangerous, right? Because it felt pretty scary today when I was sitting in the passenger's seat and we were doing 75 on the freeway and Ozzy was shaking and making all sorts a noise. And lastly, she needs a new mechanic right, there is no way she should keep going to these guys that put the wrong fluid in and then replaced her transmission, right?
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My girlfriend has a 2005 accent and recently the blower motor started working intermittently.. After a couple of days of it coming on and off it now wont come on at all.. After checking the 30amp fuse under the hood, and the relay they all seemed to be in good shape, I even swapped them out with other fuses and relays to make sure that wasn't the problem. I checked for power at the Motor and it has 12 volts going to it when the fan switch is on.. so I pulled the blower motor itself and connected it directly to a 12 volt source and it worked, eliminating the possibility of the motor itself being seized. Now I read up on a few sites on how to check the resistor, so I did a few continuity tests on the resistor itself and didn't see anything out of the normal.. What I should check next or what the actual values on the resistor check I should be reading..
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I have 2000 accent 1.5 man trans have had it for 2 years it runs good have done alot of regular maintenance but since i have owned it there was a rattle coming from motor area assumed it was heat shield of some kind, but then i noticed it stops when clutch is engaged or when driving. it is also not there when first started on very cold mornings. wondering if it is a bearing in the clutch area?
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I've got a 2001 Accent 1.5 liter 5 speed. Car has 105,500 miles. Whenever the car is running, it makes an irritating tapping noise somewhere on the left side of the motor. I've been told that it sounds like the timing belt, but the car runs perfectly, doesn't miss. The tapping used to go away 30 seconds to a minute after starting it, but now it's constantly there and slightly louder. The noise goes with the rpms. When the rpms are higher, the tapping is faster. I've also noticed some loss of power. I recently added some octane booster to the fuel but noticed no difference. My uncle told me it may be a main bearing starting to go out but the tapping does not have a metallic tone of any.
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I've got a 2001 1.5L Accent with about 110,xxx miles on it. The car stalled at a stoplight and would not start. Earlier that day it had been driven pretty hard for a while with very little oil.
When I turn the ignition, there is only a high pitched buzzing/whirring sound. the motor won't turn over, so I assume it's probably seized up.
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2002 accent 1.6 motor and 5 speed,when I take off the motor sputters for a moment then is fine and if I let it slow down in any gear and step down on it it will sputter again then is fine, so far I have changed the plugs and air filter cleaned the throttle body and MAP, the wires and timing belt were changed out not long ago, took it in and hooked the machine to it and it said misfire bank 1 oxygen sensor upstream so replaced it and still have the problem, the body has 200,000 on it and the motor 100,000.
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Motor has been stalling intermittently since May. Finally had the fuel pump replaced last Friday (8/17/12). have been driving the car back and forth to work since then with no problems until yesterday. Made a run to the local convenience store and the car was shut down for about ten minutes. Came back out and car would not start! Gave it about 10 minutes and then it started again. Got it into the garage and let it run for awhile and it stalled out. Got the check engine light (a first for that) so swapped the fuel pump relay with one of the same part number. Fired right up and did not stall out.
Also, check engine light went out on its own. Swapped relays back to original positions, motor started right up, stayed running and check engine light went out on its own. What could be causing my problem? Since check engine light came on then went out on its own, would there be any trouble codes to read? One other thing, original relay has pinkish residue on the pins. What could that be about? First time poster so I hope what I have typed out makes sense. 2003 Accent 4 door with 1.6L DOHC motor. Approx 79000 miles.
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I drive a 2001 Hyundai Accent. About a month a go the CE light came on. at first, the car was driving fine so I thought nothing of it. Then I started noticing that the acceleration was sluggish and when it finally accelerated, it basically slingshot forward. What could be wrong. There's no smell, rattling or anything else. The only thing I noticed was the engine was a bit louder.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent with the 1.6L in-line 4 cylinder engine w/ 160K miles. Over the last few months, I have noticed that when I run the A/C, the car has been at idle for a while, like at a stop light or in park at idle, and I have been driving the car for awhile in the afternoon (summer here), the engine sputters and hesitates on acceleration. The engine makes a pinging, sounds as if it's misfiring and then bolts like lightening, especially when I turn the A/C off. The mpg has declined. I barely get 21 mpg. The car does not have an inline fuel filter, only the "sock" in the tank. I have changed the spark plugs, plugs wires and have run two cans of Sea Foam FI cleaner through the fuel system and the problem still persists.
I am clueless to what could be causing this other than my injectors are still dirty and need a heavy duty cleaning. Could it be an alternator problem because I have noticed the dash lights and headlights get brighter. Could the ignition coil be going out. The car idles fine and the problem disappears when I shut the A/C off and only seems to do this when the weather is hot!
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I have just changed my clutch and machined my flywheel on my 1.5ltr 16v dohc 2000 lc accent. I used all the correct trans fluid and refilled and bled the clutch fluid. It takes of from lights like a new car but if you put your foot down around 40kph it revs out a bit and does so through all gears untill you reach a bit of speed. What is going on?
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I have a 2005 Accent with just over 35,000 miles on. Last night (in extreme cold here in Chicago), the car started running loud. Loud on start, idle, and acceleration - normal when maintaining speed, even at highway speed.
Since the loud sound first started, I have driven about 100 miles (had to for work, no choice). The sound is pretty much the same - definitely in the front end, and the best way I can describe it is a much louder version of the normal sounds you would hear - idle sound but louder, acceleration sound but louder, etc.
No warning lights have come on, car hasn't shown any signs of overheating on the gauges, etc. I had a somewhat similar issue with an old '99 Saturn SL2 w/ 115,000 miles - but in that instance the flex pipe had corroded and completely separated from the rest of the exhaust system.
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I have a 2002 accent 1.6.(272,000 miles) It has been having this issue for awhile now. It is very slow to accelerate, seems like it is losing power. Also if I press the gas pedal hard it does not want to shift correctly unless i back off the gas pedal some and then it will shift fine. I have had the transmission checked and it has no issues (transmission has be replaced with only about 80,000 miles on it). Also if i try to run the AC it really looses power. It currently does not have any diag codes when I have it scanned. So far I have replaced spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel filter, and a diode that I was getting a code for. I am just curious if there is something that could be causing the issue that will not report a code.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent with a 1.5L SOHC and manual transmission, with 207,000 trouble-free miles on it.
I have recently noticed a hesitation under acceleration. It happens most frequently under hard acceleration under lower RPM, if I'm close to lugging the engine. The engine "hiccups," almost like it is missing a cylinder. It will hiccup 2-3 times until engine RPM's increase, then smooths out.
What the cause may be? Last changes: Plugs at 175K; Plug wires @ 160K, Fuel filter @ 100K, Timing belts at 60K, 120K, 182k. K&N air filter cleaned at 50K intervals, last time @ 200K.
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My '03 gives a rattle sound under load/acceleration conditions. This does not happen during the warm up period, so it appears that the engine runs lean under acceleration. There is no check engine light on for this. Approx 172k KM, (100k miles). The noise appears worse when it is hot/humid outside. I have run a can of Seafoam through it (half in the crankcase, half in the fuel line), and that doesn't seem to have worked. Therefore, I don't think that it is the injectors. Possibly fuel filter (still original)? Any easy way to test?
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent 1.6 DOHC 5-speed Manual Transmission ... so here is my problem;
Regardless of whether I am going from a complete stop or if I am simply changing gears the acceleration is practically non-existent, sometimes taking up to 3 minutes to accelerate just 5 mph. While I am driving at a consistent speed of 65 mph, the RPMs will randomly jump from 3000 to 4000 or 5000 with no apparent cause.
I have been told everything from putting air in the tires to replacing the clutch. I do not have the time nor the money to try every option of fixing this issue. I need to attempt to narrow this down to as few probable causes as possible.
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I'm an Accent 2000 gs owner and since a few days i had this problem. It has a bad idle and looks like it will stall... need to give some gas to stay alive.
Bad acceleration too, it misses some gas. (puffing, rumbling, shaking a bit). After accel, it's ok until the next red light.
Now I can't even drive cause it's worse. (too difficult to accelerate). Is it a sensor?
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My 2000 celica is leaking engine oil from the rear of the motor on the driver side ( passenger side for the U.S). the oil drips are quite insignificant at the moment with only a small amount leaking on the garage floor, but a leak is a leak and i want it fixed. ive tried my hardest to find the source of the leak but i just cant squeeze my head in well enough to see where it is coming from as the engine bay with the 2zz motor is pretty tight! the car only has 116k KMS on the clock (72k MILES) and is regularly serviced so it doesn't make that a seal is on its way out already, but from the area that ive isolated it to, it looks like its the crank pulley or seal....
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Had the oil changed as recommended (15% life). Afterwards drove 3 miles, no acceleration, oil light turns on, EPS light turns on and check engine light turns on. Able to get off to the side of the road. Car is dead. Tried starting one time, same lights came on and stayed on, motor would turn and quit. waited for the tow truck to take us back to where we had the oil changed (Honda Dealer). They are now telling us it is an electrical issue and not something they did. I find that to be too coincidental considering we bought the car brand new (19 miles on it), maintained regular maintenance, never had any issue/questions/concerns, and suddenly there's an electrical issue where the car won't even turn on. I think they drained the oil, got distracted and just put the filter and caps back on and said it was good to go - with no oil. I mean, could this really be an electrical issue? Car is back at the dealer's with no word from them what is going on.
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