Accent LC (2000-05) :: Motor Stalls At Idle Intermittently - New Fuel Pump Installed
Aug 22, 2012
Motor has been stalling intermittently since May. Finally had the fuel pump replaced last Friday (8/17/12). have been driving the car back and forth to work since then with no problems until yesterday. Made a run to the local convenience store and the car was shut down for about ten minutes. Came back out and car would not start! Gave it about 10 minutes and then it started again. Got it into the garage and let it run for awhile and it stalled out. Got the check engine light (a first for that) so swapped the fuel pump relay with one of the same part number. Fired right up and did not stall out.
Also, check engine light went out on its own. Swapped relays back to original positions, motor started right up, stayed running and check engine light went out on its own. What could be causing my problem? Since check engine light came on then went out on its own, would there be any trouble codes to read? One other thing, original relay has pinkish residue on the pins. What could that be about? First time poster so I hope what I have typed out makes sense. 2003 Accent 4 door with 1.6L DOHC motor. Approx 79000 miles.
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I have a 2000 hyundai accent and when i fill with fuel it surges like its running out of fuel and stalls when fuel is gets low it runs fine.
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Woke up this morning with a dead battery got a boost and realized that DRL, chime, dome light, dash lights and fuel pump are always on (can hear the fuel pump turning) even when the key is removed. The car will start but i have to remove the positive terminal to prevent a dead battery. Check all the fuses and the 2 diodes all is good. If I pull the 2 head light fuses in the engine bay the fuel pump slows down and the head light go on (The drl turn off).
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Have power at fuel pump relay but no power at pump harness. Replaced fuel pump but on a budget and I dont know what else to do.
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I own a 2003 accent and it would start then go but stall, when let sit for some time it would start back up, I have changed all two relays and pump and filter but now it wont start at all. I don't seem to have power to pump as I have hose off and when i turn it over no gas comes out of pump and no sound!!
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My 2000 Accent GL SOHC 1.5 won't start. It has plenty of battery power to crank over. The fuel pump is not cycling, so I assumed that was the problem and replaced it. Still no fuel pump when the key is turned.
I've read on here how it could be a Crank Position Sensor or a Camshaft Position sensor. I measured the resistance of the Crank Position sensor and got 800 ohms. The specs are [0.486 ~ 0.594kΩ at 20 C (68F)].
I also tried testing ground and voltage to the Camshaft position sensor. With key on, I wasn't getting voltage there (read .028 VDC or so), but the Crank position sensor was also removed. I'm not sure if that has any affect on the test.
So, What is the most likely culprit here? Obviously I'm not familiar with most of the sensors and troubleshooting them.
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My 2000 Hyundai accent gl will not start. I have realized it is the because its not getting fuel. the fuel pump is new but not getting power.. there are 5 wires coming from the pomp which is the ground wire?
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I am posting about a cam sensor code and alternator belt squeal.
Yesterday after getting in from a 600 mile drive from salt lake to eastern Oregon i took a look at the car to put some fogs in and clean it up a bit. It had always had some odd vibration at idle and belt squeal intermittently at idle. I pressed down on the alternator at idle and the vibration noise went away. So bam. Found that.
The nut on the square head mounting bolt holding the alternator was missing. So it was kind of just flapping around. Replaced the bolt and put a lock nut on. Problem solved so I thought.
I'm still getting belt squeal. And i think that its out of alignment. It looks like the pulley side of the alternator is closer to the engine block than the other side. Is this adjustable? Is the bushing on the mounting side worn out to the point of movement? Is this fixable?
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Accent with 166K on it. A couple of weeks ago I drove it and for an hour and parked, then after several hours I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. I had it looked at and found out that the fuel pump was not buzzing. I replaced it, it started and I drove it for a couple days then it died and didn't start again. It cranked but wouldn't start. To get it to start again, I had to spray starter fluid and then was able to drive it home. A couple of days later, while I was idling at a traffic light, it died. The engine cranked but it wouldn't start. I used starter fluid again and got it home. Once I use starter fluid it runs fine, like nothing is wrong with it. There is no fault code present. I replaced the fuel relay, fuel pressure regulator, ECU, fuel filter and spark plugs but I still have the same issue. What else do I need to replace? The car will start sometimes and sometimes it won't. Sometimes it will start fine without starter fluid and then other times when it randomly shuts off, I have to use it. I was going to replace the crank positioning sensor but since the car starts with starter fluid I think it may have something to do with the fuel.
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Accent that will crank but won't start. I found out that the fuel pump was not spinning, so I purchased a replacement. Before installing it, I connected all of the wires and the new pump wouldn't spin either. I then hooked the pump directly to the battery and it spins with no problems. After that I realized that the power wire for the pump must be shorting somewhere. So I hooked up the old pump and ran a new power wire from the relay box to the pump. The pump now runs, but the car still won't start. I definitely have fuel to the rail now. I unhooked the fuel line at the fuel rail and it sprays as soon as I turn the key to "On". Now all I need to know is if I'm forgetting something (bleeding the fuel rail?, etc.). Are there any other parts I'm forgetting?
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2002 accent with 70k on it the 1.6L
Here is the problem, the car sat for two years and when getting her back to life it would start so i started testing everything i could find. here what I get
Gets spark
Power to the cam and crank sensor.
All fuses and relays are good.
Found out the ecm was not grounding the engine control relay to turn on the pump and injectors so i added my own ground to the grey/orange wire and the pump turned and and it fired right up.?
so my question is what does the ecu look for to turn on this relay?
It was fine for a few days but now even with the relay grounded (activated) the car doesn't start . but let it sit and try again in ten mins and it will start every other time I come home from work and try....but i do still get power to the pump and injectors.? There might be a electrical monster in this car but I don't know what else to check.
I have another accent same year so I switch the ecu and every relay i could find over from the run ing car and i still have this problem, also changed the cam and crank sensor, so I am at a dead stop.
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My car is standard 5 speed transmission, when my car is running my idle varys between 800ish to 1500 intermittently within seconds and if I don't drive it after starting the car it will stall on me (in neutral) after the rpms go up and down about 9 times.
The thing I found is if I disconnect my idle air control valve attached to my throttle body it stops the jumps in rpm. I have tried replacing the valve with one of my friends control valve Hyundai accent 2004 that works and fits perfectly on his doesn't work on mine. Right now I have my idle air control valve disconnected at the moment but i want to fix this issue because my rpms are at 1300 at idle.
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Been having a fair bit of trouble with my accent, at first my car sometimes would hesitate on acceleration in 1st gear. Now it has a rough idle and the engine just completely cuts out at random. It does however start straight back up. It makes an odd noise whilst idling almost like a misfire from the exhaust. On start up it blows a lot of white smoke. And when you do get driving it is really jerky. It's been serviced every 5000ks. I've changed spark plugs, map sensor and throttle body sensor, put a fuel injector cleaner through and still no improvements. It's been booked into the mechanics for next Tuesday.
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In the mornings when I turn the ignition switch to on right before starting, I don't hear the fuel pump wining. I notice the wining on almost every other car that Ive drove. I don't know if its because of this I get a rough start. It usually happens only in the mornings especially on cold days. During the rest of the day I can hear it clear and it turns on right away with no problem. I have tried to turn the ignition switch on then off then back on to see if the pump would turn on but nothing. Also sometimes I have to keep the gas pedal down about half ways for it to turn on and not stall. Tomorrow I am going to check to see if any fuel lines are clogged.
Car is a 2000 accent gs 1.5l 12sohc ... With about 87500 miles on it ...
Anything I should replace with these many miles ... Planning to replace spark plugs and timing belt myself ...
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I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent that just started not filling up. The pump kicks off every couple seconds. From reading other posts it sounds like its the evap canister (wife would often top off the tank). The question is, does the evap canister need replaced or do the hoses need cleaned? Is there an easy way to get the hoses off?
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I had a new fuel pump installed on my 1997 Honda Civic (145K miles) last week after it started hesitating and bucking one day and then the Check Engine light came on. I picked the car up last Thursday, and it runs and starts, but I still feel "something off"...it seems to have small surges of power/lack of power while I drive. Again, always starts and runs but it just doesn't feel right.
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There is no electric power (no lights, no dash indicators, no starting, nada...) New battery just put in.
More background: old 'beater' hyundai, manual trans, not sure of year but older one (looks a lot like the picture for this forum). It was sitting in storage for over a year and was driven in to that slot. It belonged to my son's friend who just gave it to him. Was going to drive it away (tires, oil ok) but of course would not start. no lights will come on, interior or exterior. turning key in ignition to any position makes no difference - still no power to anything. Battery cables seem ok. Could find no blown fuses, either inside or under the hood.
So, what are we missing? What is the magical fix that will quickly get this thing on the road (we want to stop the storage fees too).
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Every so often when I leave the car sit for 30 minutes after being driven, I start it up, put it in reverse and back up, then when I put the car into drive the RPMs drop for two seconds or so and it seems like it wants to stall. After that happens, all is well and the Tig drives normal.
I scanned the Tig and it came up with a "low fuel rail/ fuel pressure" code. It happened 5 times.
Is my fuel pump going? Maybe a dirty fuel filter? Or maybe a computer problem?
Info: Tig has 26k miles on it, stock computer (not chipped), it is out of warranty. I only run 93 octane in it too.
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I have a 2000 Mazda 626, V6, 5-speed with 157,000 miles. The car cuts out (as if it's loosing fuel) and stalls intermittently. This has been happening for 3-4 weeks and neither my regular mechanic nor the Mazda dealer can figure out what's wrong. Here's what they've tried: new fuel pump (replaced 3 times to make sure parts not faulty), new wires and plugs, new alternator belt, replaced fuel pressure regulator, replaced mass air sensor, cleaned/checked fuel & air filters, replaced coil/distributor (2 times to make sure part not faulty), checked for vacuum leaks, checked ignition/sensors (CAM and others).
It has been stalling intermittently for 3-4 weeks, though for a while would not do it when with the mechanic. Also, the check engine light would never come on, so there were no codes to check into. Sometimes after it would stall, it would not start up again until the engine was cold. Recently, it stalled when the mechanic was test driving it. He pulled off the mass air sensor and it started right up. He replaced that part and the car was driving OK for several days. I even took it on a couple 2.5 hour round trips. Today, however, I could not get it started. It would turn over, but not fire and it seems to me that it wasn't getting enough fuel.
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This car now has 6k miles .
A lot of people including me, has fuel pump failure. That's not bad you say..and no it's not if that was the only problem. When it fails, all metal particles that are shredded inside travel through your whole fuel system. Your fuel tank, your fuel lines, etc. Basically everything from your fuel tank to your fuel injectors. They replaced close to 50 parts on a brand new car!!!
When this happens, the car stalls completely which is now a safety issue! Imagine driving 2 kids on a highway and your car shuts off, giving you very limited braking (IF ANY) and steering!
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I have an issue of fuel pressure I believe on my 2003 3.5 Santa fe...It would start then stall...I'm at my wits end with this thing...I checked the relay and its good...checked all fuses and they are good...I don't hear the 2-3 second whine of the pump when I turn the ignition to the on position, so I suspected a bad pump...but before I bought a new pump I took out the back seat, removed the access cover and checked the connector to see if the pump is getting power...its not...I'm at a loss as to where to look next...
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