I have a 4dr 2005 Hyundai Accent, CL. It has 139,927 miles on it.
Today when I was accelerating onto the Hwy, a dashboard light came on. When I checked the manual it says "Malfunction Indicator Light". It says, This light illuminates when there is a malfunction of an exhaust gas related component and the system is not functioning properly so that the exhaust gas regulation valves are not satisfied.
My wife drives an 04 Accent and we seem to have a major issue. Here goes...if you turn the headlight switch to the first spot(parking lights etc.) the digital display disappears and the cluster gauges freakout and all the warning light flicker. When you proceed to the second spot(headlight on) no headlights, high or low, but when you pull and hold flash to pass the high beams work as does the instrument panel.
when you turn the switch back to the off position the trip meter resets back to 0.0. I've replaced the multi-function switch and no change. Here's the kicker, if you turn the blower motor on, the instrument panel acts up the same way and the blower motor, a/c, defrost don't work, but if you pull and hold flash to pass the blower motor, a/c all that works great. This is my wife's car and since it is in this state she really shouldn't be out in it.
I recently bought a 2003 Hyundai Accent 1.6L DOHC manual transmission hatchback with 124000 miles. So far the work I have done in the car include replacing front bank 02 sensor, new flex pipe, exhaust manifold replaced with a used OEM part. Everything is going great with the car except that the check engine light is on with the P0442 and I occasionally smell gas or exhaust fumes (not sure) while driving and it goes away. My combined mpg is only about 23mpg.
I replaced the gas cap with a brand new OEM part then cleared the CEL. However, after driving 90 miles, it went back on so I brought it to my mechanic who recommended a smoke test. After the smoke test, he said the charcoal canister and the diagnostic module needs to be replaced. Is it worth replacing to fix the CEL code and if the code is related to me smelling fumes inside the car while driving. Also, I would like to know if there might be another problem causing this code instead of the charcoal canister or the diagnostic module.
I've been getting bad gas mileage for the past two years or so. I also get a fume smell when I run the car for a while. I have strong suspicion there might be a leak in one of the exhaust gaskets.
I'll be changing the exhaust manifold gasket and both exhaust flange gaskets. I'll also be changing both O2 sensors. The car runs well and smooth. It's just those two things.
2000 Hyundai Accent with 180K. Runs and idles smoothly. When sitting for a few minutes at idle I get a waft of smoke when I accelerate. The car burns minimal ammount of oil and the smoke is not apparent while driving.
View 4 RepliesI have a problem that I cannot pinpoint. For at least 2 months now, I have noticed a strong odor almost like a diesel coming from the exhaust. I replaced the plugs, wires, air filter and cleaned out the throttle body but it remains. No check engine light and runs smooth. Also, noticed a significant loss of coolant from the overflow bottle. Filling it every 3 days. Took it out to inspect for holes or cracks and nothing. Not sure if all these are related. Every oil change the used oil smells like fuel. I was thinking rings going bad but don't think that would solve the coolant loss which is unseen. Everything under the hood is dry.
View 5 RepliesI recently bought a accent, changed the oil then upon starting it back up it just pours out white smoke from the exhaust. i might have put a little too much oil in, would that cause the issue? It didn't happen before the oil change either.
View 6 RepliesIn my quest to get my girlfriends car working, I'm encountering several hurdles, but this one is quickly the most expensive waste if the wrong parts are installed. The car is running rich and rough, lacks power. Here is what I have
Code P2096 - Post Catalust Fuel Trim System Too Lean. The manual indicates: Faulty PCM, Faulty Cat, Faulty rear o2 sensor, or hole in the exhaust line.
When I replaced the o2 sensor, I reset the OBD system and the car ran like a dream for about a week, then same problem, started running rich and rough again, a huge loss of power as well. It doesn't smell like a bad cat, I've replaced to o2 sensor.
I just bought a 03 accent the same day i bought it the CEL came on got it read and it was cylinder 4 misfire. took it to the garage the dealer i bought it from takes it to he said there was a little water around the boot in that weird little channel area under the cover he said he cleaned it up dried all out then reset the code and it was good, for a little about 2 weeks later it comes on again i get it read and it says cy 4 misfire again but also P0133 (o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1) and i cannot remember exactly but i think the CEL came on after the exhaust started sounding loud, like it has one of those ricer mufflers on it.
Well I jacked up the car today and looked the only thing i saw was after the first cat right before the braided flex pipe there is this weird "shield" looking piece on the underside of the exhaust pipe dunno if its really supposed to be there or what it is for but from somewhere under that piece i can see exhaust coming out(its cold right now) also the flex piece is kinda blackened like its had exhaust fumes blowing on it for a while. i cant imagine why this would be a normal thing but i have never worked on hyunda before. i am thinking if there is some sort of "leak" there that is why the o2 code is showing. i am stumped, esp on the cy 4 misfire all sparks and wires look good i pulled each wire with it running and it bogs down til i plug it back in.
My problems started at the beginning of the year when my car for no reason would cut out each time i slowed down. Had a minor service done and it seems to have gotten worse. It now chugs like a tractor.
I have replaced/done:
Sparks
Coil pack
Fuel filter
Battery
Drive belts
Coil leads
Oil pickup filter
oil filter , New oil
I have also taken out the Crankshaft sensor and its fine.
Today i struggled to get my car home because it chugged that hard it felt like the car was going to stall. Its an automatic. I left it running in my drive way for about 10 minutes and it cut out, but it started back up straight away. It still continued chugging. The exhaust also spits and misfires.
2004 hyndia accent . Car starts drinking up oil like crazy, no smoke no leaks.
I added some oil one day, started to stall out. I had to jump start it. Ran for 5 minutes fine then huge white smelly smoke from exhaust. I haven't tried to start it since.
Currently throwing both P0441 and P2096, just prior to this I was also throwing P0442.
Read around on web and decided the simplest thing it could be would be the fuel cap, may as well start there. Owners manual even recommends changing at 90k. Got a replacement from advanced (which is supposed to be built to OEM specs), re-set battery light stayed off, attempted to pass emissions but a few systems were "not ready". Was good for 80ish miles. Light came back on throwing P0441 and P2096. I re-tightened fuel cap and re-set battery, light went off.
Did some maintenance; spark plugs, air filter, oil/filter change and replaced the leaky oil pan. Keep putting on miles hoping to get to the recommended 200 mile mark before stopping by the emissions testing facility, 105 miles after re-set same codes came back. I'm almost positive I replaced a o2 sensor 2ish years ago for emissions. Also there is an obvious exhaust leak which could be a culprit. I seem to remember reading somewhere that a weak battery can cause problems with fuel pressure... not sure if it's true or not but for what it's worth I do know my battery is on it's last leg.
I'd like to avoid unnecessary fixes, it's only my winter car so as long as it's nothing major I'm not going to dump money in it. I'm going to take a guess and say the check engine light is coming on when these systems become ready. Plan is to try this re-set one more time hope for the best and if not replace exhaust or at least repair leak. Not sure on my next step for P0441 though. Vehicle is a 2004 Hyundai accent with 86k on it.
Not sure if this is inherent to the exhaust setup on the R32, but had I noticed quite a bit of carbon build up on the driver's side tip versus the passenger side tip which was nearly clean.
This morning, I had it idling to warm up and with the exhaust vapor visible, there seemed to be about 3 times as much coming from the driver's side. Is this normal or should I get it checked out? I know that it's not gonna be exactly even, but it's exhausting probably 75% from one side...
Long story, I'll try to make this short, 2000 E250 5.4L What would or could happen if the catalytic converter was removed from the exhaust system?
View 5 RepliesWell after 8 weeks on owning this touareg this is the second warning light we have to deal with and also had the dead battery scenerio which took 2 trips for them to fix.. Man this is crappy for sure. I am busy at work and do not have time to search around so any info would be great about another TSB that I have to take in to the dealership or anything.
View 3 RepliesOne morning I took the car out to the mall. Right away I had the ESP light on and stayed on the whole time. Tried turning it off with the ESP button to no avail. Got to the mall and let her sit for a few hours. Came back out and started the car and now two light are on. The ESP and Exhaust system malfunction. Found a thread that had the exact same problem as I did. He said the Mass airflow sensor must be bad. So the next morning I popped my hood to find out that a little mouse had made its nest in the engine and had bitten into the wiring harness that lead the the Mass airflow sensor.
I tore apart the tape and found that only the red wire had been chewed all the way through . I soldered the wire back together and re-wrapped the tape. Couldn't find any else around the whole car that was tampered with so I thought I was good to go. Started the car and both light are still on..Drove it around a couple more times to see if that would take them warning light off, and still no go. So I am guess this has to be removed by the dealer is the only way to go?
Today, I installed a 2.5 inch leveling kit on the truck. Now when I go over a bump, I hear a "clunk" as if something is dropping down onto another component in the front end. Sway bar links are good. Springs and strut assembly are tightened down well. Could it just be the spring on the new shocks and spacers, or do I need to check other components?
View 4 RepliesWhat is the name or a store url where I could order this part below for the Hyundai Sonata 2008....
View 7 RepliesThe problem I have is the truck won't move in o/d. If I put it in revers 1,and 2 it works. A little back ground. 4 years ago the trans went out of my 95 4.0 4x4, had it rebuilt so it has 0 miles on it. It got really cold that winter had lots of trouble getting the trans and torque converter lined up. motor went bad on me. A few months ago finally had some money to spend bought a 98 explorer sport with a 4.0 x code motor. the motor runs fine apart from an oil leak and an exhaust leak. the exhaust leak is no big deal I just haven't gotten the system tight yet.
View 8 RepliesChevy trailblazer 2007
Between 1,000 and 2,000 rpm (only 20% of the time) I hear, and feel, a clunk that seems to emanate somewhere near / behind the driver seat. The error code (an 834 ? possibly but I forget exactly...but def in the 800 series) says " transmission component slipping".
Trans oil full, and clear.
The clunk sound happens on any terrain, and is very random. And going up-hill does not bring it on. The clunk's been happening for about 2,000 miles.
The orig transmission was replaced 15,000 miles ago.With a used one. Total mileage on car now 75,000.
Mechanics give varied explanations, and prognoses (none are good) but no one knows what's going on for sure.
When starting my T-Reg leaving work yesterday, the yellow exhaust malfunction light (located in the rpm guauge -- it looks like an engine but the manual refers to it as an exhaust malfunction) came on and would blink now and then and remain on.
I proceeded to drive home and the entire ride was choppy and the engine was hesitant and misfiring. When I arrived home, I turned the Reg of and then back on again and the light never came on. I drove it around the block and it was fine.
We have been experiencing tremendous cold weather in the Northeast (-20 to -30 with the wind chill). Reg started fine this morning, no light. Was this a function of the computer resetting itself?