Accent LC (2000-05) :: MAF Code P1128 - Engine Will Misfire And Rattles Until It Quits
Mar 23, 2013
I have a 2000 accent 1.5L I was having issues with the maf. I was running a cold air intake but started having issues. I removed the intake and replaced with stock config. I cleaned the maf and re-installed. The car will run fine, build rpm and return to idle with no problems. The second I put it in gear and try to move the engine will misfire and rattle itself until it quits. I have been driving around for approx a week with the maf disconnected seeing as it seems to run alright, just lacks a bit of power it seems.
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This is the infamous error code many Accent owners might have experienced it. The code refers to "Too lean intake system". People try to replace all kinds of parts like ECM, MAF, O2 Sensor, TPS, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, etc. according to my research. I just bought a 2001 Accent and the P2188 light came on. I wrote an email to Hyundai Corp. Asking what would be the most likely part that will cause the (P2188) check engine light to come on.
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I found on internet loads of comment about this error code, but in my case the only bad thing is with fuel consumption - about 9-10 litres (!) for 100 km on motorway. Normaly it should be about 6-8 litres.
The error means: "P1128 is "Long Term Fuel Trim Too Lean". Which means the air/fuel mixture is leaner than the HO2S can compensate for."
Idle is working correctly (i think thats to do with MAF), engine start without any problems and overall car running smooth.
What can cause a bad fuel consumption? Is anything to do with a lambda (O2) sensor or it could be something else?
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I have an 01 accent with a 1.5 engine. Coming up with codes P1123 and p1128. I sprayed manifold with brakekleen and didn't get. Any change in Rpms. Also sprayed maf sensor with maf cleaner. And still have same problems. Some hesitation when I start to go. And while I'm driving. My gas mpg is 25 mpg which seems way low. I just bought car and next day engine light came on with above Codes.
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I got a 2002 and its giving ma a po301. I know that means a misfire in cylinder 1. I replaced the Coils, Plugs and wires, and now its still there but the check engine light is flashing. What next?????
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2000 Tacoma v6 has has always ran good, but has check engine light code P300 & P306. cly 3 & cly 6 missfire, lean bank 1. Vacuum test showed no problems.
I've changed plugs & wires, switched coils around cleaned mass air flow sensor, checked timing. Ran Seafoam through intake, and gas tank. Check engine light went out for about three miles, then came back on. What else can I do to keep that blinking check engine light off?
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I have had some slight rough running with a cold engine and stumble <2000rpm. Finally it tripped a CEL which was read as a misfire code.
The mechanic swapped the coil and plug(recent) and no change. He did a compression test and air blew out the exhaust. So.......the car needs a valve job which entails motor removal and fixing the head and reinstall. He rough estimates this at $2000 and rate is $65/hr.
He mentioned looking at pistons and may be a bit more if rough.
This car well maintained (170,000 miles 2005 Legacy turbo wagon with manual)...
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My sister-in-law just came home with a P2069 code. I can't seem to understand how to use the search feature here, every time I enter the spam code its invalid even when I am entering it correct...
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P1128. Have had the code over and over!! No vacuum leaks and I've been through 2 MAFs. I've cleaned the throttle body, changed intake manifold gasket, changed plugs and wires, and put a new air filter in.
The code comes back every few months or so and the car becomes undriveable. Last changed my MAF back in December and the code is back already. What am I missing?
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2000 Buick 3.8. stop for gas, red light, etc. engine quits. 1st repair shop said fuel pump bad. Replace filter pressure okay. car starts later, quits multiple times. 2nd repair shop, car quits while there. Mechanic comes out with tester and says "no spark", ignition module bad, also spark plug harness bad. Replace just wires, and car runs for 9 months, no trouble. Now car quits while driving, no sputtering, just quits! Wait awhile, car starts, but 30 miles later, quits. Seems that hot weather has something to do with it, although it quit on a cold rainy fall day and had a hard time starting again. It did start and ran for 300 miles before acting up.
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Car:2000 Buick Regal54,000 miles3.8 V6, Vin K
Problem:The engine quits running. Idle, part throttle, moving, stopped, open or closed loop doesn't matter. Sometimes it will re-fire immediately, other times it may take a dozen or more attempts.
There is no MIL, and my TECH 2 is finding no issues.
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I would like to know if for the Accent 2003 there is a component that commonly fails and causes a P0108.
Vacuum seems to be ok. At least I can't find any leaks. Pressure at idle is normally at about 30kPa (4.3PSI). It ranges normally between 30 and 50kPa (7.2PSI). When the fault was set it indicated 125kPa (18PSI).
Sometimes the engine runs unstable at idle.
It seems to be an intermittent fault. If I clear the fault it can take about 2 days to reappear.
Otherwise I will have to go through checking the MAP sensor itself, wire harness, idle motor, is that about right?
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Our 2005 Hyundai Accent GLS refused to start yesterday. It seemed like the engine was struggling to turn over. It took about 10 minutes and then the engine FINALLY started. CEL came on. We drove about 1 mile and back, and the engine seemed fine. We even turned the car off, and turned it back on with no issues.
We took it into the shop but it's been about a day and they can't replicate the issue.
FYI, the CEL code is "P2096" (Post Catalytic Fuel Trim Bank 1 System Too Lean). This has prompted the garage to look at the fuel pressure system.
Historical Issues:
1. Last year, we found out that the car had minor issues trying to start up. Specifically, it takes an extra second or two for the fuel to be injected into the engine upon start-up.
We would mitigate this by: sticking the key in > turning the key halfway > wait about 2 seconds > then turn the key all the way.
I wonder if this starter ignition or fuel injector is wearing out.
2. About 2 months ago, the car started to struggle when it came to changing gears -- especially on the highway when trying to reach the 4th gear. The car would also randomly jerk regardless if we were decelerating, accelerating or maintaining speed.
Around that same time, the car struggled to go uphill (especially on a very steep highway hill that's near our house). The CEL would flash and we were constantly nervous that the car would simply die and roll backwards.
It seemed like a transmission issue but the garage we took it to replaced the coils, wires, plugs, and vacuumed out excess carbon dioxide buildup. Since doing so, the car was running perfectly.
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I have an 05 Accent with about 115,000 miles. It is a GLS automatic.
This morning as I was pulling from a stop light about 30 seconds from my office the car was extremely sluggish. I noticed the CEL light blinking and could hear a knocking sound from the engine. I pulled over and found code P0303, cylinder #3 misfire.
I checked the spark plug cable on the coil side it looks ok. I have not been able to check anything else yet as I am at work.
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Last weekend on my way home from work, I heard this small "thump" noise then a rattling noise started. It really sounds like spinning a marble in a plastic bottle.
I got the car checked and we got code 0734 (Gear 4 ratio incorrect). We think there might be a tooth missing on the gear, but the mechanic wasn't entirely sure, as he wasn't a transmission specialist.
Now, I fear this may cost me my first born child, and I might just end up buying a cheap car for the Winter and get rid of this one; the transmission repair costs are ridiculous.
I've been driving the car in the city (30-50 km/h at most), I'm trying to avoid the highway, I'm afraid I'll blow it, who knows.
It has an automatic transmission, with 125,000 km on it, 2003 make.
The noise only happens when the car is moving forward, not when idling/parked, not in reverse. I am very gentle with the car, no highway speeding, no sudden speeding. I did however do an oil change a little over a month ago, and read somewhere on here that if the wrong fluid was used during maintenance that it could cause problems. I will call the shop and ask them about it.
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while scraping ice off the windshield this morning with the car warming up, it started to choke, engine light came on. Used my OBD reader and found only one code, that being p0740. Cleared the code and all was fine after that, it drives the same way it always has and nothing feels different, revs are the same shifts gears the same. I know it had something to do with the torque converter clutch.
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Got this engine code error, how to proceed?
I have a '00 accent, just purchased a few days ago from a private party, when I bought it, I had a mechanic look it over, gave me the OK and said it passed inspection, no mechanical or obvious running problems with the car.
So I was driving around yesterday and the check engine light came on, took it to get the oil changed because I wasn't sure last time it was done, had the oil changed, light stayed on.
So I took it to auto zone to read the error code, was given this information. How to proceed?
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Car is a 2000 Passat Wagon 1.8T ATW FWD
I get the P1128 code and Emissions Workshop warning most of the year, then it cycles off in the summer. It went off yesterday, back on today, and I imagine it will go off again for weeks/months as the weather heats up.
Things I've tried so far:
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced MAF wiring harness
Replaced front 02 sensor
Replaced air filter
Replaced cracked vacuum tubes, at least those accessible from the top. Some of the hidden lengths theoretically could be at issue but a mechanic said they were ok.
What I've not replaced is the secondary air pump. (Mechanic told me it's dry and checks okay.)
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Mystery issue with my 2001 Accent GSI (5-speed manual, 1.6 L). I'm getting a P0300 error code and the Check Engine light (the light is like an old friend, I miss it when it's not on). This happened four months ago and I replaced the ignition coil - seemed to fix things - but now the light and the error is back with a vengeance. Car stumbles and runs rough. Changed the plugs and plug wires, but no difference.
BTW, there's a small pin hole in the upper part of the gas tank (just enough to give it a gassy smell when the tank is full) but I don't think the hole would be big enough at this stage to cause the check engine light to come on in the same way it does if you leave the gas cap off or loose.
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I bought the little car to get off my motorcycle and its done great. But, after a couple trips around town my check engine light came on, and I imiditely noticed a change in my idle and engine performance. Im assuming my engine changed the air/fuel ratio to account for the sensor indications. My initial code read came back with four codes which said something about spark, and O2 sensor, and emissions. I went ahead put new spark plugs, gaped them as well as replaced the first O2 sensor.
After that I reconnected my battery and sure enough no engine light and my idle felt even better than before. (by the way my old plugs looked normal) But shortly down the road the light came on again. My idle did become a little different but not like my first encounter with the engine light. My power too seems a bit degraded, as well as the engine's sound. As of right now I am only reading one code P0422, which I do not see in the manual. I read online that its probably my catalytic converter or my engine is running at an improper air/fuel ratio. I am praying that it is not my catalytic converter and just my engine computer throwing things off.
Other things which may serve as clues:
Slight valve cover gasket leak (I will change the gasket when I do my timing belt job along with other seal and probably the water pump)
When pumping gas I can get about 90 cents in at a time, now more like 40 cents since the Saudis lowered our gas prices. Assuming I've got some kind of venting problem.
Car has 107K manual shift.
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My car is a Canadian 2002 Accent. I believe it's a GLS, and it has the 1.5L engine.
It has a worsening misfire in the low RPM's, although the RPM range this happens in has been broadening. I can now smell unburnt gas when this happens.
This problem first reared its head around a year ago. I replaced the fuel and air filters without it resolving the problem. I changed the spark plugs - the old ones looked to be in reasonable shape, but suddenly it ran great with the new plugs - for a few months.
The misfire started to creep back in. Since then, I've replaced the upstream O2 sensor and cleaned the MAF sensor. I replaced the throttle position sensor. None of these things solved the problem.
The battery terminals were getting pretty corroded - I hadn't thought this would be related to the issue, but I cleaned them. This did not fully solve the problem, but it did drastically improve it. I bought a new battery the same day - the problem while not gone, seemed to be much more manageable.
About 100km later, the problem has significantly worsened again. I tested voltage across the battery - with the car running, the voltage is ~14.2V. When the fan is on full and my fairly high powered stereo is running, voltage still stays ~14.2V. I'm assuming that should mean that the alternator is good?
Previously, I had tried my ignition coil on my sister's Accent, and it seemed to work fine - but I'm not entirely convinced that the coil is guilt free. I have not done any further testing on the coil, and have not tested the spark plug cables - I'm not sure how to properly test the coil or cables, and don't know where to find the appropriate specs for them should I learn how to test them.
I got the car on the cheap, however, aside from the low (now mid) RPM stutter, the car seems to otherwise be in great shape, and only has 150,000 km on it. Unless it's going to cost an excessive amount, I would like to get this car running right again.
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