Accent LC (2000-05) :: Lost Power Then Died While Driving / Now Will Crank But Not Starting
Apr 10, 2016
I have a 2005 hyundai accent (manual) with 140k miles on it that just broke down on me. I was driving to work and after about 10 minutes of driving I go to pull off my exit and I feel it for the first time, my rpms stay steady but the power drops for a few seconds before returning to normal. About 5 minutes later I'm putting around the parking lot and it's having trouble accelerating and reving to the point that it won't really move. I push it to a spot and let it sit for 5-10 minutes before starting it back up in an attempt to get it to a gas station to try and add fuel (quick Google search makes it sound like a fuel pump and the tank is pretty low). It accelerated in fits and makes it about two blocks feeling anemic. Oil changed about 2k miles ago (but is below the L mark on the dip stick when I just checked. I never see leaks though)
The engine ran and idled beautifully before this. No CELs.
Replaced the fuel pump. However, when I opened the port to the fuel pump assembly, there was almost no gas. So I think I might have just run out of gas and the problem was with the gauge.
Now it won't start with ~4 gallons in the tank.
I know the pump functions because I've pulled off the output tube at the pump and it'll spit out gas.
I know there's gas in the fuel rail because I pulled off the input hose.
I pulled off one spark plug to check for spark and it appeared to work.
I checked the resistance at 3/4 of the fuel injectors and they were within spec.
I've checked all the fuses.
I don't get any codes from OBD scanner I borrowed from Autozone (I've disconnected the battery a couple of times though)
I don't have a way to hook up the fuel pressure gauge I borrowed form Autozone because I don't have the adaptor.
Minus the clutch, I've done basically all maintenance myself, although certainly not a great mechanic.
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My daughter was driving down the interstate doing 70 mph when her explorer lost power and died. It will not re-start. Checked the DTCs and there were no codes. This same thing happened about a year ago and she had it towed to the dealership. After 3 weeks, they called and said to come pick it up. They said they had no idea what had been wrong but it was running. They replaced crank sensor, cam sensor, cleaned and checked several others an it still would not start. Then one day they sent one of the flunkies to move it back into the shop and he started it up and drove it in! They checked several more things but claimed they really didn't know what was wrong or why it started running. Now it has done it again. I suspect it may be a faulty ECM.
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About a block and a half from the house, it died while driving. Had heard some noise coming from rear drivers side maybe 20 minutes prior, and assumed it was the fuel pump.
So, I have put a new fuel pump, filter, and relay. Will crank, but not turn over. Next step was carburetor fluid in throttle while starting, still wouldn't turn over.
2001 Escape 6 cyl...
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2007 Accent GLS, US-market, Automatic, 140k miles
This is my wife's car. She called me from the side of the road while I was on a job out of town. The car had stalled while driving. She was able to re-start the car with check-engine lamp showing and took the car directly to a garage. It ran normally during that trip.
The garage diagnosed the problem as a failed crankshaft position sensor. They cleared all codes from the ECU without telling us what they were. My wife told them I would fix it when I got home. She drove the car home, parked it there and used my car until I got back.
When I got home, I replaced the crank position sensor with a new beck-arnley part. It was a poor fit, but it did go in. Now roughly every other start takes a few extra cranks. It always starts. It does not stall once started. No check-engine light since the initial episode. I just don't like the random hard starts.
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My Truck : 1999 Ford F-150 Extended Cab 4x4 5.4L V8
So the other day I was driving the truck and it just dies on me. Tried starting but it just cranked and cranked. Got it pulled over to a parking lot and then tried to start and I got it to run again. Died a couple mins later uo the road and it will not start at all anymore. I got it towed to my driveway and I've started diagnosing some things.
I dropped the tank thinking it was a pump I replaced awhile back. The pump wasn't running but jumped to conclusions and took it back to the auto parts store. They bench tested and it works fine. I checked for voltage at the pump connector. NOTHING. So I'm not getting power to Fuel pump. Then I checked the fuse and relay for the fuel pump. Everything was okay.
I did some research and decided to check for spark. NO SPARK. Another thing I noticed the other day was that the odometer is displaying all dashes. So I'm really unsure on what to really troubleshoot. I am going back to the truck tomorrow to check a few other things. I'm not sure if the Theft light is blinking or not so I will check that tomorrow and get back to you.
What to check? Any other relays or fuses besides the fuel pump? What about any modules to check like PCM, GEM, etc. Or I've heard the crankshaft sensor could be an issue.
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I have had various issues with my car over the years but on my way home last night my car just died coming down the interstate. It didn't make any noise, it simply kicked off the cruise, the battery light and oil light came on, and I lost gas and power steering. The security light did not come on and my car's forgotten who I am often enough I know how to do the key relearn by heart. My service engine soon light stays on because I no longer have a catalytic converter. When I turn the key over I smell gas (which I can only assume means there's not an issue with my fuel system), everything turns (alternator, belts, etc.) but it doesn't fire.
I had someone suggest that it could possibly be the EGR valve, but when I went to investigate, turns out there isn't one installed on my engine, where it should be there is a metal plate bolted to the "hole". In the past my ignition control module had to be replaced about every 11 months, so I had two and carried the spare in my car. This stopped happening when we finally replaced the entire coil pack. My car has always idled rough (I'm assuming I can attribute this to the lack of EGR valve).
Over the past two weeks it just seemed to get a little worse, it was making noises when accelerating when the car was cold, almost like a whining and the engine was idling hard. When looking for the non-existent EGR valve I did discover my air filter was ridiculously dirty and the air intake is full of oil. The oil was low but not enough to make the engine seize. I know that's a lot of information but was trying to be as clear as possible about previous issues and what I have ruled out. I did read that it could possibly be the CPR, but didn't know and I need it running again.
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I drove my 2012 Sonata GLS to work, when I left work the car lit up for a split second and then died. I thought the battery was the problem, swapped it out with a new one, nothing. Main fuse is good and all the fuses in the engine compartment are fine. Oddly the interior fuse box is not receiving power at all. Multi-meter shows life in the battery and engine fuses. There are no working lights of any kind, nothing happens when I turn the key, Key FOB not working, the whole nine yards.
The car has 63,000 miles on it, I purchased it 4 months ago from a dealership, declining bumper to bumper warranty. My sales rep and the warranty manager reassured me the 5 year, 100k powertrain would be transferred to me, and it wasn't. I'm currently fighting with the dealership over them covering it, but that's a whole other story.
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My daughters boyfriend was driving his 98 Expedition this evening and it died. From what he is telling me, he said it just all of a sudden lost power. As he was coasting to the side of the road, he said the RPMs where fluctuating then died. It cranks but won't start. No "theft" light flashing. All fuses under the hood are good. Turning the key, can not hear the fuel pump pressurizing.
No pressure at the Schroeder valve on the fuel line. While trouble shooting, found where someone had done a hack job of splicing the ground battery cable, wire was just folded over to hold together. As we were towing it home, they said there was a beeping coming from behind the glove box, which is where the PCM is I think. Kinda stuck on whether it could be PCM or fuel pump.
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Car just died and wont start. Have checked the following..
fuel (unplugged hose at rail and no fuel with key on, only while cranking. also pulled rail off and all are spraying fuel)
spark ( all plugs are sparking, but are wet from fuel)
compression ( all had 190-210 psi)
timing belt is still in time.
Car doesn't even try to start with all of these. It does back fire out exhaust though when trying.
Also the one of the ecu fuses was blown( thought for sure that was the problem) but made no difference. What to check next. Possible ecu is bad??
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I'm driving a 2008 Highlander, but this question applies to almost any car, I think. On a couple of occasions the Highlander has lost power, and I've lost braking and steering ability. Each time this happened I was going at slow speeds and was able to stop without a nasty problem then restart the car. But what if this happens and I really need to brake? Three related questions:
(a) Are power brakes going to stop the Highlander even when it has lost power?
(b) If not, will the parking/emergency brake be useful?
(c) If the answers to (a) and (b) are "No", what should I do?
Of course, I'd love to know why Highlander lost power, but my Toyota dealer was not able to replicate the problem, even after driving the SUV 100+ miles (the two occasions it happened to me were separated by about 5000 miles of driving).
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I have the opportunity of getting i believe a 2004 accent gt for next to nothing. It recently lost reverse and all gears aside from first. The codes it is triggering are p0734 p0732 and p0733. Prior to throwing the codes it moved back but wouldn't budge forward. With codes no reverse or any gear higher than first. Car has 160k miles I am pretty mechanical. Should I run from this "cheap" "gas saver" or pick it up? With all 3 codes could it be just that sensor?
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So I was driving to work and the truck lost throttle response. There was very little of it! Came to a stop then it didn't barely want to move, pulled over then it died on me! No clue what to look at! 2005 6.0 232k miles
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