Accent LC (2000-05) :: Light Clunk When Shifting Into Reverse - AT Fluid Has Burnt Smell And Color
Jun 8, 2016
I bought a 2005 Accent with 150k one year ago and 3 months ago got AT fluid and filter changed. Color was very dark my mechanic friend said.
I checked the fluid and after just 3 months light driving, noticed it smelled burnt and so just changed it again yesterday and it was very dark.
Another piece of info is that previously when got the fluid changed 3 months ago the level registered way above high when car was off but then then normal when running in N. Same thing is happening now. My knowledgeable mechanic friend just told me to keep my eye on it.
There are no shifting issues, except for just light clunk when shifting into Reverse, but other than that it's great.
I just want to know what problems might be going on to burn the fluid so fast and have strange level readings when car is off but okay when on. I read some stuff about solenoids but because shifting is great should I even consider that?
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My son's 96 camry 4-cyl developed a transmission problem. It slips in the forward gears. Reverse works find. At start, the first gear slips allot but eventually moves the car. It also slips between gears. The transmission fluid has a burnt smell and a dark color. The problem started about 1 1/2 years after I swiped out the transmission. The replacement transmission is used and I was told it came from Japan. It worked great up until the problem started.
In one Post I found suggested old contaimination buildup that may have clog a shift port or something. Can I gain access to the hydraulic area without pulling the transmission? And if so, is there hope in recovering the transmission by cleaning this area? Is there a solution that does not require removing the transmission?
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So I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent that has been a relatively good car for the 11 years I've owened it. About 2 months ago I got a flat tire, which I didn't notice until a passenger in another car told this while waiting at a stop light. I was so close to home (within a mile) that i decided to trek it slowly back. Made it back and a friend of mine put a donut on and I had the two front tires replaced the next day.
Within a week of having the tire changed I noticed several issues with the car. First, it was starting to make a very loud, almost grinding sound. Looked into whether or not tires had anything to do with it since I just had them changed. I pretty much now think its a wheel bearing. It seems to be coming from the right front passenger side. It gets louder as I speed up and also especially loud during left curves and turns.
But all that is background for my real problem. In addition to the above the transmission started acting up. At first I though it was the engine because the problem was initially just sputtering whenever I would slow the car down to a stop. I changed the spark plugs and wires but that didn't work. Then it started having problems shifting. Even going to 3rd now it can take a while, staying at a higher than normal rpm. And when it finally shifts it knocks hard. Only thing I did was have the transmission oil changed since it was about 40k miles past where Hyundai says it should have been done. That worked only slightly (maybe not at all). On top of that, there's also has an engine smell (like hot burnt oil) inside the car when I drive it for an extended amount of time. This was happening before and after the transmission oil change.
These are the first major issues I've had with this car. The only exception is that I've had a failed oxygen sensor twice but that was cheap to have repaired and both times the check engine light was on. It has not turned on once since this started happening. I've stopped driving the car long distances and especially over hills. I go 5 miles between home and work with it now. I was starting to think about getting another car before this happened but I'm still not ready to do that now.
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I have a 2005 Accent GL (4dr Sedan) base model, 5 speed. I live in Canada (not sure if that will play a part); I notice that when I shift from first to second there is a 'clunk', not really a grind, and not a major clunk... but it's noticeable. As the car warms-up, it seems to be less pronounced (or maybe I start to ignore it). Is this something to worry about? or could it be the clutch plates.
I have had lots of bikes with wet clutches and this is 'normal' for a bike going into first gear. With the bike it's due to what I call Hydrolic-stick ... (2 or more) plates 'sticking' when you let the clutch out, one spinning faster than the other. Off topic now...
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I have a 2003 Accent and it has been over heating constantly for about 5 months. After it started, we replaced the main radiator hose, thermostat, radiator cap AND a head and head gasket. It worked for about 2 weeks and then over heated again. It seems like there is too much pressure somewhere because the lid for my reservoir shoots off and all the coolant comes out. I'm just not sure where to look for a clog since it is coming out of the reservoir. It also recently started having transmission problems(?) or that is what I think it is... It won't go in reverse and has a hard time shifting sometimes. I'm not sure if it could be related or if it is the tranny also.
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1999 F-150 4.6 4R70W transmission 148,000 miles. My transmission was slipping so I changed fluid and filter. I believe the transmission fluid was changed one other time (I did not find the yellow plug in the pan). Transmission fluid smelled burnt. Added new fluid and Lucas treatment. Turned truck on and the battery light came on. Brief test drive and no change in transmission until almost home and then it would not go into gear. Lights were dim power windows wouldn't work. Reverse works. I assume it is time for a new transmission and the electrical issue is related to the transmission. I use the truck a lot and am leaning towards getting it fixed. I can't swap out transmission myself and would have to take it to a garage.
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My car is a Toyota Camry 2003, automatic transmission. I don't know if the previous owner ever change the transmission fluid, but my car has 100k miles already. Today, I took the transmission fluid dipstick out, it look black and smell burnt, but I don't see any metal. I don't know how to take out the pan and check for metallic pieces, is there any auto shop that would do it for free?When I accelerate to 40mph from a complete stop, the RPM goes up the 3000 and then quickly drop to 2000, then gradually drop to 1300. My car speed up really slowly even when I keep holding the gas pedal down with my feet. Is my transmission slipping? Sometimes when I start my car or when I change gear, my car jerk a little. I'm afraid it too bad already and my transmission is depending on the broken metal pieces, so I don't know if I should flush it? Will changing the transmission fluid fix the problem?
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I have a 07 passat 2.0 wolfgang Ed. Recently the MIL light came on, engine fan is loud and shaking and a strong odor of burnt rubber coming from the passenger side of the engine, it's still under warranty can't get in with dealership for two weeks.
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I just had the motor torque and strut mount fixed and was told that I have an exhaust leak flex pipe. My problem is I'm still getting a clunk when shifting into reverse doesn't happen all the time but it is concerning plan to have flexpipe fixed in the near future. will that take care of the clunking sound or is it something else? don't have a lot of cash to work with right now.
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I have a 93 ford escort which makes a clunking noise if I shift into reverse without letting the car warm up and idle down. It sounds as if the noise is coming from the front passenger side wheel well. The sound does not occur when shifting into reverse if the car is allowed to warm up and idle down to 1100 rpm. What's up?
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I just recently bought a 95 F150 with a 351. The truck has high mileage, about 190k, and I am not sure how long the transmission has left. It rides smooth down the road, but when I put the truck into reverse it hesitates for a moment then makes a loud clunking sound(as if a door is being slammed) and then jerks into gear. The reverse works great at the moment though. Should I be worried, is there anything I can do to fix this?
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So I've always been aware of my slight oil leak on my 2003 Hyundai Accent. But it wasn't until I took it to Firestone for a discount oil change that it started getting worse and began to actually smell of burning oil while driving. I've checked the obvious places (ie the oil pan bolt and the newly installed oil filter) and I've determined it's definitely coming from higher up in the engine. Also, when putting cardboard underneath, you can see that it drips from right behind the engine. I figure it is probably that seal that costs but loads of money in labor to replace but when checking it today I noticed that the oil SEEMS to be in the top part of the engine dripping down. I'm attaching pictures of the one spot in particular that appears wet with oil. I'm not sure what it is but I believe it is next to the injectors.
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How to get the bulb changed out and what kind to use?
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Sometimes when putting the vehicle into first it's almost impossible to get it to go into gear. Sometimes it's super smooth. Also when putting into reverse we hear a loud clunk. That one is most of the time but sometimes it goes in smooth. I was doing some looking around at the pedals because I think I am going to have to replace my master cylinder and noticed that on the inside of the vehicle where the clutch master cylinder comes into the vehicle it's leaking black fluid. Does that automatically mean my clutch master cylinder needs to be changed? Could this be the cause of it being difficult to shift because the clutch isn't fully disengaging?
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I've searched all over and can't seem to find the answer. When I pull the tail light out of my 12 F150 there is a blue/wht wire and a black wire going to the back up light. I assume the blue wire is the positive and black is the ground. Is that correct?
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I own an automatic 2009 Accent. I'm at 95,000KM.
Anyway, the problem does not occur all the time and appears to be entirely random.
When I start my car, on occasion, the car will make a CLUNK sound when shifting from park to reverse or drive. When it does CLUNK, you can feel the car lurch as if something fell out of place. The sound is quite audible, even with the radio on. The sound and lurch is not as pronounced when shifting to reverse. It doesn't seem to happen when going to neutral but is very obvious when going to drive.
Turning off the engine and restarting it seems to resolve the issue. Once I had to restart the engine twice before the clunk stopped.
Attempting to drive when the car does this sound results in increased RPMS. Usually when driving the RPMS sit between 2000 and 3000 but would jump to between 3000 and 4000 when the clunk occurs. Usually, the car will want to crawl forward if I'm not on the brakes but with the clunk, the car need quite some gas to start going forward.
Here's where it gets scary:
On two occasions, while driving on the highway at 100km (65 miles), I'd feel something slip and then suddenly my RPMS jump up by 1000. On both occasions I had to pull over, turn off engine and restart the car and the issue stopped.
Clearly, whatever it is that changes gears is slipping but the fact that it slips while driving just freaks me out.
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I was just wondering if it's worth the hassle to change the interior light color on the cluster, etc from green in my 09 to the bluish white seen in the 2010 & up models as I much prefer that.
Also, I have tinted my tail lights but I have some creasing from the curved shape. I plan on removing it & starting again but I was just wondering if there were any tips or tricks to make it a bit easier?
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I continuously read that people with 6.2 F250s averaging 13 mpg or so in a combination city/highway driving. This 2014 4x4 barely has enough power to move itself (honestly, I'd rather have my Ram 1500 back) and barely gets 10mpg. Basically have to give it about half-pedal to even get up to freeway speed and floor it if i want to pass anything. Is it just that much of a POS or does this not sound right? Other than a massive "clunk" sound when shifting from reverse to drive or vice versa, no indication of any problems.
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My 2000 Jetta gls vr6 automatic was not shifting into reverse until it warmed up a bit, so I did a filter and fluid change, car level, warm pumped fluid while shifting gears. No problem. Next morning no forward fear, guess I split the gasket by over tighting. Had it towed home. Oh, tried to get to work, adding fluid made it go. Now now gasket and fluid. No gears at all. Generic code reader said electric malfunction on every shift solinoid, torque converter lockout and something about shift timing malfunction. Basically everything connected to ribbon harness. What's up? Did I fry it. Also I have a 2002 triptronic from my 2002 vr6, suppose that's not a bolt on?
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my toyota solara v6 SE 2000 has as i think trans problem it won't reverse yesterday as i took it last week to semeone to do engine oil change but instead he drop off the trans oil and add more oil to the engine , and as i don't know i drove it like 1/2 mile with no trans fluid , we figured out that late ! i keept shifting between D & R, 2 & L IT ALWAYS GO FORWARD and no more reverse, what's going on ? before i replace the trans !?
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Recently some guy was working on my car and I was told he put nearly a quart of tranny fluid in the gas tank. I've read everywhere on this and some say it's an old mech trick to clean injectors and others say it will destroy your O2 sensor along with other things
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