Accent LC (2000-05) :: Left Front Brake Locks Up
Nov 7, 2015
I have a 2001 Accent GL 1.6l automatic non ABS (original owner) with no real issues until last month when the left front brake started locking up. Sometimes within a mile sometimes after ten. The brakes go from normal pressure to hard as a rock unable to move the brake pedal even when I bleed off the booster. I've researched every site then proceeded with the following work.
Changed the front pads, rotors, calipers, rubber lines plus the back brake cylinders, rubber lines and master cylinder then bleed the system using a power bleeder... all to no avail. As a last resort I replaced the booster, still no change.
I've checked the brake pedal and the booster pushrod adjustment. Eventually took it to my mechanic. After two days he told me he was stumped as well.
The only thing left is the rear brake proportioning valves on the left side of the brake cylinder. Can't figure out how they would be causing the left front brake to lock up if indeed that is the problem.
There are no kinks in the lines, no air in the lines, bleed almost a gallon of brake fluid through the entire system and still zip... Frustration and anger has left me for despair and total confusion and a 700+ dollar hole in my pocket.
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Looking for information in regards to the issues that I'm having with my brake lights including the 3rd brake light.
I have running lights, backup lights, and turn signals; I have checked all the fuses inside and under the hood; I have cleaned 2 grounds on the left rear of the car; I have checked the bulbs; I have jumped the wires at the brake light switch. All to no avail.
I have also have no power to the at the brake light fuse.
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It seems that my left brake light is always on. I tried replacing the bulb, but that didn't do anything. I also had someone look at a switch underneath my break pedal.
I did had in the paste a problem with my trunk light, and got that resolved. Does any of those wires have anything to do with that light? What else it could be? Trunk light on dashboard
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So my front left headlight is dim. from everything i have read online it is most likely a grounding issue.
My problem is trying to locate the issue. Where the front left headlight grounds to and What I need to do to fix it.
This is my first car and my mechanical knowledge is minimal.
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I own a 2005 Hyundai Accent 1.3 SOHC and a while ago the front right wheel started to make a grinding noise, problem was related to the brake system..
So far I've tried replacing the rotor (disc), repaired the caliper (using a rebuild kit), replaced hoses (both), and event the master cylinder.... and the problem persists, it actually came to the point that after driving a while the front wheels will get stuck.
I've followed all the directions from the service manual and it still got the problem...
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Sometimes the LR brake skids MUCH too easily under just moderate braking. Other times it works normally. It's unpredictable. I may drive it for weeks with no trouble and then have a few days in a row when the problem comes back.
It usually happens when the truck has been sitting for a while (several hours or days). sometimes it goes away after driving for 10-15 mins, other times it sticks around a few days then stops.
I had Les Schwab inspect the brakes several months ago and they could find nothing wrong. It's been happening for a year or more.
It's a '99 Ranger, 2 wheel drive with ABS.
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I just got my beautiful accent but the locks sometimes lock and unlock on their own! I think its just a grounded out wire. It doesn't happen all that often but I would like to get it fixed. Also the window switch doesn't work on the passenger side. The only thing that will make it go up and down is the switch on the drivers side.
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Car is a 2001 Accent 1.6L 4 door automatic with about 130,000 miles on it.
Transmission shifts correctly into reverse, drive, neutral as well as manually shifting into 2nd and 1st. When in drive I will accelerate perfectly through 1st gear, shifts smoothly into 2nd gear then the problem arises. The car will shift ok into 3rd, but if I let off the gas to coast to a light or a corner, etc, the transmission physically downshifts or locks up in 3rd (like driving a stick, ie the car has drag like the converter is locked instead of freely coasting). It feels like 3rd gear but could be 2nd. When I go to accelerate again without coming to a stop the car has this same feeling of drag with no power and speeds up very slowly (almost like i am pulling something behind the car or am in a gear that is too high). If I give it enough gas to force a downshift it really slams that downshift. While the car accelerates through the rpm range after this downshift it will rev past the normal up-shift rpm until it finally slams into the higher gear. Or if i hold the gas steady at the higher rpm the car will suddenly slam into the higher gear. after all of this nonsense the car drives perfect through to OD. The problem is much worse going uphill and is consistent every time it is driven.
Also, sometimes the car would shake and vibrate when hitting the gas during this "drag feeling" until i let go and did it again. This is pretty random compared to the main problem but also seems to happen while the car is in 2nd or 3rd. This has been happening for about 5 months now and as far as i know was sudden. And on another note it suddenly was shifting fine the other day while driving it. I haven't driven it since then but this completely stumped me, as most problems will do when they magically disappear.
There is no check engine light, OD works fine and the car does not go into the safety mode where it will shift to 3rd gear on the highway. It's city driving that is the real headache (2nd and 3rd gear difficulties). Would the pulse generators cause this? bad TCM? i haven't scanned anything yet but will be within the next few days(at pep boys or similar) as well as ohming out pga and pgb. i have found resistance readings for pgb but nothing for pga, what should pga read? fluid is also within acceptable amount and color.
My initial thoughts were dirty or stuck solenoids/valves in the valve body and i was going to do a filter and fluid change with a quick valve body cleaning and check. But after researching on here I am starting to think it may be electrical. The only reason I put my scenario up is because it seems that everybody else who is having a similar problem is also having the "no reverse" or "shifting into 3rd on the highway" problems while i am not. On a random note, for my own piece of mind, how do the pulse generators work? Are they just reading ticks on a gear cog in the tranny or something? fluid flow?
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2010 F-150 King Ranch. Randomly when turning left, it feels like the left front brake is engaging and it sounds like your anti-lock brakes when you come to a stop on slush or snow. The truck slows with your foot still on the gas, Saturday it came to a complete stop before it released.
I have had it to 2 Ford dealerships, the first could not get the symptom to occur on a test drive and told me there was nothing they could do because they did not now what to look at.
The dealer I bought it from got it to act up, replaced the IWE 2 weeks ago and 3 days later was still doing same thing. My wife dropped the truck at the dealer again Weds.morning, she told them it did it on the way there. I called at 4:30 to check and they said they drove it 2 times and it did not act up.
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I have a 83 Jeep CJ7 with a right front brake that locks up. This a a manual brake system. If I brake the bleeder and relieve the pressure, I'm usually good for the rest of the day. Then it's the same problem the next time I drive it. I've replaced the master cylinder, caliper, rubber brake hose and relaxed the fluid with synthetic. I'm at a loss of what else to do. The right front is the only one that has this problem.
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My 2000 VW Passat (V6) is acting up. My power window/locks on the front passenger side aren't working. All the other doors and windows are fine, but the dealership wants to charge a lovely $1000 for "window modules"...
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I have been driving a 2000 accent with 146k miles on it, and while driving home I thought I had a flat tire. Get out, tires look fine, so I give one (passenger side rear) a light kick with my toe, and it moves. I can wiggle it about 1/4 inch of play, and when lifted on a jack, the wheel rotates just fine so I don't know if its a bearing issue, the shock also turns with the wheel, left/right. The driver side rear doesn't do this so I decided to park it and not drive. What it is?
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I have a 2002 Accent that has recently started to sway side to side when I'm turning left. It almost feels like the back end is swaying but it's hard to tell. I've recently had the CV Boots replaced as they were torn but I don't think that's related at all.
I'm wondering if it could be the suspension. I've looked at all the wheel housing and checked the steering rod for any play but everything seems fine. If it could be the suspension how would I go about checking it.
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Where this buzzer is located? under the dash(where)? Mine doesn't seem to work anymore. I've drained my battery like 5 times already.
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I'm getting a pulsing. High-pitch squeak from what sounds like the left/front wheel when making left turns and occasionally driving straight at low speeds after a left turn, usually while NOT applying the brakes. In fact, applying the brakes firmly stops the sound until I release the pedal. After that, sometimes it comes back immediately and sometimes not.
Two weeks ago I replaced the R/F cv axle and the sway bar link. Harder job than it should have been because I had a heck of a time getting the lower ball joint bolt free.
This past weekend, I replaced both front rotors because I was certain that one was warped since I was getting a very loud pulsing squeal only when braking. I also have had a tendency to over torque the lug nuts which I had read can cause warped rotors. I now use a torque wrench for that.
I've made sure that the rotor shield isn't touching anything and checked the pads for damage and unusual wear. Pads are at about 75%.
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Very annoying noise I have on the rear left wheel of my 2001 Hyundai accent. About a year ago I noticed a rhythmic noise coming from the rear left wheel of my car. I figured the car had done around 130K kms and was probably needing new bearing assemblies. This didn't fix the noise. So I thought maybe it was the struts or the wheels. Not either of those.. changed the struts and got the wheels balanced.
I changed the rear brakes shoes.. didn't work. So a few months went by and I figured I would try and get the drums machined. So I got them skimmed slightly but this did nothing. Finally I decided to that maybe the bearing was dodgy so I put a new on... and you guessed it.. The noise is still there.
The noise is always present whether I am braking or not. As I speed up the noise is more prevalent. Basically the noise is related to the rotation of the wheel. My next plan of attack is to put new brake shoes on with new brake drums. I don't know what else I can try.
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I've got a 2001 Accent 1.5 liter 5 speed. Car has 105,500 miles. Whenever the car is running, it makes an irritating tapping noise somewhere on the left side of the motor. I've been told that it sounds like the timing belt, but the car runs perfectly, doesn't miss. The tapping used to go away 30 seconds to a minute after starting it, but now it's constantly there and slightly louder. The noise goes with the rpms. When the rpms are higher, the tapping is faster. I've also noticed some loss of power. I recently added some octane booster to the fuel but noticed no difference. My uncle told me it may be a main bearing starting to go out but the tapping does not have a metallic tone of any.
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2004 accent manual shift. car drives well, but when i step on the gas, it sudenly pulls to left. when i release gas, it goes back to straight driving. motor mount??? anything else come to mind??
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I have a 2008 F250 which has been a awesome truck. Very few issues except for one that no one can seem to fix. Its regarding my brakes and a mysterious reason all of them have to a degree locked up and smoked the pads rotors etc. I now have 80k on the truck and have replaced all brakes once and now the front left have locked up for a second time. The scenario goes like this:
So i'm driving along and if the front brake locks up I can begin to smell it. So I pull over and smoke rolls out along with the overheating popping sound from the effected brake. Rear brakes usually are not found until I stop which i get out and then can smell them. Funny thing is the brakes have locked up when not towing. Also, I have never had more than one happen at a time. So as today all brake pads and rotors have been replaced and now the left front has overheated again. From what I can tell the caliper just doesn't fully release. What could be causing this?
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My front left turn signal was hyper flashing. I replaced all four bulbs to no avail. Just to satisfy my curiosity I switched the bulb holder from left to right sides. The hyper flash followed to the right side. Turns out that the bulb holder shorted out. I had it replaced under warranty yesterday.
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I have a 2002 Accent that has this clicking sound coming from what sounds to be the left hand side under the hood. The click sounds like two marbles colliding. The car runs ok otherwise, but I would like to know about that sound.
I took a video, but its kind of hard to hear it. But if you listen close enough, you can hear it.
2002 Hyundai Accent click noise in engine - YouTube ...
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