It seems that my left brake light is always on. I tried replacing the bulb, but that didn't do anything. I also had someone look at a switch underneath my break pedal.
I did had in the paste a problem with my trunk light, and got that resolved. Does any of those wires have anything to do with that light? What else it could be? Trunk light on dashboard
I have a 2001 Accent GL 1.6l automatic non ABS (original owner) with no real issues until last month when the left front brake started locking up. Sometimes within a mile sometimes after ten. The brakes go from normal pressure to hard as a rock unable to move the brake pedal even when I bleed off the booster. I've researched every site then proceeded with the following work.
Changed the front pads, rotors, calipers, rubber lines plus the back brake cylinders, rubber lines and master cylinder then bleed the system using a power bleeder... all to no avail. As a last resort I replaced the booster, still no change.
I've checked the brake pedal and the booster pushrod adjustment. Eventually took it to my mechanic. After two days he told me he was stumped as well.
The only thing left is the rear brake proportioning valves on the left side of the brake cylinder. Can't figure out how they would be causing the left front brake to lock up if indeed that is the problem.
There are no kinks in the lines, no air in the lines, bleed almost a gallon of brake fluid through the entire system and still zip... Frustration and anger has left me for despair and total confusion and a 700+ dollar hole in my pocket.
2001 1.5 Accent. It has not been starting consistently for the last few weeks. Ive had to use the jump box on it a few times and that worked.
The other day (cold day!) it died at the stoplight after driving for about 20 mins. It made a grinding crunch sound from under the hood as it died. After several attempts on jump box it fired up and ran again for about 15 seconds and died and made sound again.
This repeated itself a few times before I got it towed home.
I removed alternator and it tested good (PASS) at two parts stores...testing 3 times each.
Battery has about 14 volts at the posts without having charged it after event.
What would cause the car to die and make the awful sound? And why would it appear to need a jump start?
I was thinking alternator but.....
I have a new problem that I only discovered a few days ago. As I come to a stop at a traffic light, turning out of somewhere or whatever if I give the car a little more gas than normal not that I punch it or anything from a stop the car bogs down and bangs a little rough like I was rear ended. The car is in drive when it happens. Its just fine any other time. I was told it could be as simple as a bad tps or as bad as a defective torque converter or tranny. Its a 2005 gls hatchback with the 1.8L. also, the engine has been running a little rough recently too if that could have anything to do with it. No warning lights are on either.
View 15 RepliesI am the owner of a 2009 Accent L (Canadian model) sedan. I have had this car from brand new and I have had two warranty issues with this car in the last 6 months. First at approx.36000 miles (60000Km) the stop light switch started sticking, so the brake lights wouldn't work properly. The second issue was the turn signal/ headlight combo switch malfunctioned and started to smoke. The dealer replaced these under warranty after some hassles.
View 1 RepliesMy driver side brake light is not working. I noticed it yesterday after changing my front brake pads. The bulb won't light up. I changed the bulb and didn't fix it. I checked fuses and all were good. The running light and turn signal both work on the tail light and the passenger tail light is fine and everything works on it. A couple hours after I noticed the driver side tail brake light wasn't working the hatch brake light went out. Not sure if it was just bad timing for the bulb to go out or not. I think I may just need to get a new wire harness for it. Not sure.
View 1 RepliesI have a Hyundai Accent 2001 and today while driving the battery light and brake light both went on and the steering wheel became "stiff" - hard to turn - although driving in a straight line seemed to be as usual.
I would just take it to the garage, but although it still starts as usual, it seems hard and probably a bad idea to drive it there in its current condition.
Looking for information in regards to the issues that I'm having with my brake lights including the 3rd brake light.
I have running lights, backup lights, and turn signals; I have checked all the fuses inside and under the hood; I have cleaned 2 grounds on the left rear of the car; I have checked the bulbs; I have jumped the wires at the brake light switch. All to no avail.
I have also have no power to the at the brake light fuse.
So my front left headlight is dim. from everything i have read online it is most likely a grounding issue.
My problem is trying to locate the issue. Where the front left headlight grounds to and What I need to do to fix it.
This is my first car and my mechanical knowledge is minimal.
I have been driving a 2000 accent with 146k miles on it, and while driving home I thought I had a flat tire. Get out, tires look fine, so I give one (passenger side rear) a light kick with my toe, and it moves. I can wiggle it about 1/4 inch of play, and when lifted on a jack, the wheel rotates just fine so I don't know if its a bearing issue, the shock also turns with the wheel, left/right. The driver side rear doesn't do this so I decided to park it and not drive. What it is?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Accent that has recently started to sway side to side when I'm turning left. It almost feels like the back end is swaying but it's hard to tell. I've recently had the CV Boots replaced as they were torn but I don't think that's related at all.
I'm wondering if it could be the suspension. I've looked at all the wheel housing and checked the steering rod for any play but everything seems fine. If it could be the suspension how would I go about checking it.
Where this buzzer is located? under the dash(where)? Mine doesn't seem to work anymore. I've drained my battery like 5 times already.
View 3 RepliesI'm getting a pulsing. High-pitch squeak from what sounds like the left/front wheel when making left turns and occasionally driving straight at low speeds after a left turn, usually while NOT applying the brakes. In fact, applying the brakes firmly stops the sound until I release the pedal. After that, sometimes it comes back immediately and sometimes not.
Two weeks ago I replaced the R/F cv axle and the sway bar link. Harder job than it should have been because I had a heck of a time getting the lower ball joint bolt free.
This past weekend, I replaced both front rotors because I was certain that one was warped since I was getting a very loud pulsing squeal only when braking. I also have had a tendency to over torque the lug nuts which I had read can cause warped rotors. I now use a torque wrench for that.
I've made sure that the rotor shield isn't touching anything and checked the pads for damage and unusual wear. Pads are at about 75%.
I have a 2000 Hyundai accent gl and ever since the head gaskets been replaced its had an issue of almost stalling out when accelerating from a stop.
The cars overheating quite frequently as well like the thermostat isn't opening and the fans aren't kicking on.
Very annoying noise I have on the rear left wheel of my 2001 Hyundai accent. About a year ago I noticed a rhythmic noise coming from the rear left wheel of my car. I figured the car had done around 130K kms and was probably needing new bearing assemblies. This didn't fix the noise. So I thought maybe it was the struts or the wheels. Not either of those.. changed the struts and got the wheels balanced.
I changed the rear brakes shoes.. didn't work. So a few months went by and I figured I would try and get the drums machined. So I got them skimmed slightly but this did nothing. Finally I decided to that maybe the bearing was dodgy so I put a new on... and you guessed it.. The noise is still there.
The noise is always present whether I am braking or not. As I speed up the noise is more prevalent. Basically the noise is related to the rotation of the wheel. My next plan of attack is to put new brake shoes on with new brake drums. I don't know what else I can try.
I've got a 2001 Accent 1.5 liter 5 speed. Car has 105,500 miles. Whenever the car is running, it makes an irritating tapping noise somewhere on the left side of the motor. I've been told that it sounds like the timing belt, but the car runs perfectly, doesn't miss. The tapping used to go away 30 seconds to a minute after starting it, but now it's constantly there and slightly louder. The noise goes with the rpms. When the rpms are higher, the tapping is faster. I've also noticed some loss of power. I recently added some octane booster to the fuel but noticed no difference. My uncle told me it may be a main bearing starting to go out but the tapping does not have a metallic tone of any.
View 3 Replies2004 accent manual shift. car drives well, but when i step on the gas, it sudenly pulls to left. when i release gas, it goes back to straight driving. motor mount??? anything else come to mind??
View 1 RepliesMy nice little 2002 GL 1.6 has 160K+ on it. Lately, when I come to a stop, I get a thump when she downshifts. I don't know which gear exactly, but it happens when the car reaches 10 MPH and below, so maybe when it goes into first? It is just as the car stops, it seems.
More recently, it seems as if when I get just about stopped, it feels as if she completely disengages from drive and goes into neutral. But it doesn't actually do that, she is fine when I take off. She upshifts just fine, it's just that last little bit when coming to a stop.
I have never had the transmission messed with very much, but I know it was serviced a few years ago. I did add a little fluid a few weeks ago after I checked it, and I was very careful to purchase the exact correct fluid.
I just bought a 2001 Accent, very well taken care of. It is the 1.6, automatic, 148,000 miles. Just before I bought it, the owners put new tires on, replaced the plugs/wires/belts/timing belt/all fluids/head gasket. I did a search on this topic and saw a lot of things, but nothing definitive.
I've noticed that when at a stop (in gear) the car shakes a good amount, and with the A/C on it's significantly worse. There is no check-engine light, and the car seems to run and shift very well. I'm not used to small cars with small engines, so I don't know if it's normal or not.
I did look at the motor mounts (front and passenger side) and from what I can tell just taking a peek, they don't look bad, but again it was just a peek. The mounts don't look like they've ever been changed, but then again the whole car looks brand new, the owners took really good care of it (the inside looks like it's never been ridden in).
I do also have noise coming from the speedometer, that goes away temporarily when the back of the cable/speedo is lubed and then comes back, but my first concern is the shaking.
I have a Hyundai Accent 2005 Hatchback automatic and I have a rising problem.
The car seems to shake violently when I am nearing or at a complete stop.
The shaking gets so bad that the mirrors start to shake.
The shaking stops immediately when I accelerate or at regular speed.
The car seemingly runs fine, accels OK and brakes are good. However, I can still hear some shaking when I am driving.
The engine light is not on, but obviously I feel like this is something I want to get checked out before the matter gets worse. What it can be?
So on my way home today from work I came to a stop sign and noticed my car (2001 Hyundai Accent, 1.6L Automatic) didn't downshift while coming to the stop. So I stopped and hit the gas, and the car didn't move, it only revved. So I put it in park and it banged into park, then I put it in drive and it banged into drive. Then while driving, it will only shift when you let off the gas and like 5 seconds later after you let off the gas it shifts really really hard into third I believe. And in addition, there is no reverse now! I put it in reverse and nothing, even when I hit the gas it goes nowhere.
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