Car ran dangerously low on oil (oil leak that we didn't know was present) and started knocking quite badly.
I pulled the valve cover to check the lifters and everything seemed fine up top. I tried to drop the oil pan but I couldn't get it to separate from the block.
If I can remove the oil pan are the main and rod bearings that hard to change or do they require special tools?
Where the knocking sensor is located on a 2005 Accent. I am in need of finding it so that i can wire a controller into the signal wire?
View 2 RepliesBut i still have the sound, and it definitely sounds like its coming from the passenger side, however when i looked at everything and tried wiggling the wheel, nothing seemed out of place. Would that still indicate a bad ball joint? Is there anything else i should inspect/have inspected?
The sound only happens when i go over a big bump, or a medium bump at a higher speed. It doesn't seem to affect my steering or driving feel, but its still not a noise that should be there.
I found that the driver side tie rod was a little loose, and replaced that, but sound persists.
This start this morning on my way to work. When I took my foot off the gas I would hear a clicking knocking sound the sound slowed down as the car slowed down. Any time I took my foot of the gas this would happen. Was still there when I hit the break. If i had my foot just barely on the gas it would go way. Its an automatic 2000 Accent 156K miles.
View 20 RepliesI own a 2001 Accent 1.6, auto. 150,000 well-taken-care-of miles. New plugs/wires/timing belt/coolant flush 10,000 miles ago. Most recent oil change was with Shell Rotella T5 (I believe 10w-30 blend) and Purolator PureOne filter, 4-5,000 miles ago. It does not burn any oil, and runs very well. It has never been low on oil, revved high, or abused in the 10,000 miles I've owned it (except an ebrake u-turn on a dirt road to scare the wife )
The engine has always had a mild tick when cold, that goes away within about 30 seconds. Normal, from what I could tell. Also, it has always had a tick from roughly 1500-idle when releasing the gas, in neutral. Again, seems fairly normal for a little engine, I figured just some valve noise.
This morning I started the car (sat overnight) and it idled a bit rough for about 20 seconds, and I noticed that the ticking from before was now closer to a knocking/tapping, nowhere NEAR the horribleness of a spun rod on my WRX . But it was still a bit alarming. It never really quieted down, but as I rev, the sound goes away completely above 2k, and the flutter when I release the throttle is louder than before.
I have an 05 Accent with about 115,000 miles. It is a GLS automatic.
This morning as I was pulling from a stop light about 30 seconds from my office the car was extremely sluggish. I noticed the CEL light blinking and could hear a knocking sound from the engine. I pulled over and found code P0303, cylinder #3 misfire.
I checked the spark plug cable on the coil side it looks ok. I have not been able to check anything else yet as I am at work.
Ok, I've been hearing the strangest noise under my car for awhile now. It sounds for all the world like a drum stick is hanging by a rope, swinging back and forth, and hitting against something solid. It makes 3-4 loud taps and the vibration can be felt through the gas pedal/floorboard. It ONLY happens when pulling out while turning left or right and going over a rough entrance like a rain gutter that bounces the car pretty decent. So whatever it is doesn't start swinging under normal driving. For the life of me I can't imagine what could be that heavy to make noise like that and not be causing any other problems.
View 4 RepliesI get a strange noise when I shit gear & press the accelerator..... the sound is as if something is knocking.....
View 3 RepliesI have the 2013 Accent with nasty knocking noises from the front. Have the same thing with my 2009. I opened the hood yesterday to fill the washer fluid and noticed I have a gap between the insulator dust cap, body or frame and strut insulator. I can almost poke a pencil through the gap. I am to think this is not normal. I have about 16000 kms on the car.
View 20 Repliesso with the weather turning cooler i have noticed a new noise. i am at 34,000 miles and run synthetic oil ever 4-5k miles.
I hear a rattling/knocking noise when you start engine, not right away, but like after 15 seconds and it lasts about 30 seconds then seems to go away and is quiet again.
Almost sounds like a lifter is tapping due to not getting oil.
I changed the accessory belts a while ago and it did not first make this noise right after but maybe a few days after which coincided going from 80 degree weather down to 40 degree weather.
Could it be an accessory belt being too tight? If so, why wouldn't it make it on startup? I can see it going away as rubber expands as the warms but I would expect it to make the noise from starting till then. Not 15 seconds into running.
I havent had my 2000 taurus too long.... Last week a knocking noise started. It usually happens when I am turning but there have been a few times it does it when I am braking. It doesn't happen right away - just after I've been driving for at least 15 minutes or so....
I got this looked at last weekend at by a mechanic and they drove it and didnt hear a thing and supposedly things underneath looked okay. I can tell that things ARE NOT OKAY. Also, since this knocking started, my alignment seems to have gotten off a bit. I may be a blonde but I've had enough problems with past cars that I usually know what I'm talking about!!!!
2000 Blazer 4wd, automatic, 122000 miles
In the last couple of weeks, if the Blazer isn't driven for 3 or more days, there is a slight knocking noise for 15 to 20 seconds after start up. Oil level and pressure are fine. I'm guessing it's the lifters.....
We have a 2000 Saturn SL2 (120,000 miles). Last night we drove to L.A. and back (from San Diego) , so about 250 miles round trip. For the last 45 miles or so we had the radio on quite loud. At some point in that 30-45 miles the engine developed a very loud knocking noise - like rocks being spun in a tumbler - which we noticed when we got off the free-way and turned down the radio.
This noise did not effect the way the car handled as I did not notice anything when the radio was up. We have been listening to a lot of sounds and I am concerned it could be a Rod Knock - it sounds a lot like this [URL] ... from inside the car, outside it was more of a constant pinging/thunking noise - less gravel sound.
So my quandary is this, our mechanic is not open Sundays so I cannot ask him, but when we take it to him tomorrow, do we drive it or tow it? If the rod is starting to go I do not want to inadvertently do more damage by driving it. The mechanic is 8-10 miles away. We can get their either on the freeway or through surface streets.
I have a 2000 celica gt... My motor is making a loud knocking noise at all time.. The other day it completely stop working. It started back after a couple of attempts... I think I need a new motor but idk... What kind of motor will fit and how much or what can I get for the car if i sale it..
View 2 RepliesI'm looking at a dirt cheap Explorer 4.0, has been sitting for 2 years. Runs nice, with a double "knock" noise but quieter than a rod knock. Idles smooth at 600 rpm, "knock" is consistent, but increases as engine increases speed. Has 2 year old oil, and 2 year old gas. Would a tune up support it, and revitalize it, or is the engine almost dead. Still drives, didn't push it to hard. Interior is 9/10, exterior is 10/10. I have him down to 600. 4x4 works, and feels good.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 F250 5.4 that has a ticking/knocking noise. After about 30-60 seconds of first starting the truck in the morning, the ticking/knocking noise appears. It sounds like its coming through the exhaust system and seems to be louder under the front passenger side wheel well. When I rev the engine up, it seems to go away. Does this engine have a cam phaser? Could it be timing chain slap?
View 11 RepliesChasing this knock and I'm starting to get a little bit worried. So I'm looking for what I should do next.
Here is the truck info... 2000 F250 4x4 206k. . Swamps Diesel 200/30's. Terminator HPOP. GTP38R. EBPV delete pedestal. Banks wastegate. AFE stage 2 intake. RiffRaff FRX. 4" exhaust. Hydra chip. John Wood Auto. 6.0 Trans cooler.
I have a knock sound coming from the area of #8. It is noticeably louder in that area with a stethoscope. Its not any louder anywhere else (oil pan, block, otherside of engine, or front). Truck does not smoke and runs and idles great otherwise. Was thinking possibly the cackle/fuel knock issue these trucks have but with bigger injectors and the FRX could this even still be a possibility?! Anyways here is what I've done.
Checked fuel pressure and at idle it is 61/62 with any tune. At WOT on Econ tune it goes down to ~40ish psi. With the extreme tune WOT dived down to 28/29psi. So my thinking was maybe that injector got screwed up so...
Swapped #8 injector with #2 so the front injector with the back to see if either it had some bad o rings or isolate the injector as the problem if the noise moved cylinders with the injector. While I did this I put brand new O-Rings on those two injectors and popped them in. Got it fired up and the knock is still in #8.
Unplugging the injector with the engine running the noise seems to disappear. HOWEVER, when I use the stethoscope the knocking noise still sounds like it's there but very faint. Without the stethoscope I can't hear it. Also driving the truck down the freeway and letting it coast the noise goes away when the injectors get cut off.
Recently pulled off valve cover and checked the pushrods and rockers on #8 and all looked fine. At this point I'm thinking wrist pin, rod bearing or cracked piston??? Could it somehow still be a fuel knock?
I have an 03 Accent with an automatic transmission that was recently replaced. I'm getting a ticking noise and I removed the inspection cover and had a look and found that the thin plate bolted to the front of the torque converter is cracked at two of the ears where it bolts on so I suspect that is what's creating the noise.
I hate to have the trans on this car pulled again, I had it done once before because I don't have the tools here to do that. It's just an old work car that never is even driven on the freeway and I was wondering if simply welding that plate up would keep it going or is it something that will break and crack again.
I have a hyundai accent 04 when I start it up there seems to be a ticking noise under the hood. It seems if the car is warmed up the sound decreases. What's going on?
View 7 RepliesMy daughter has a 2005 Accent. She has had it for about a year and it has about 120k on it. She has started to hear a "clunking" noise, based on the sound we think it comes from the driver's side rear. You can feel the car jolt some when the clunking noise happens. Seems to happen on acceleration but does not happen all the time.
Now I have heard/felt the noise/jolt one time and if I did not know better I would say that it was the drive shaft universal. But this being a front wheel drive car there should not be a drive shaft in the rear.
My 2000 accent (manual) suddenly started making a LOT of road noise - like I'm driving on off-road tires. It's speed-sensitive. At 20MPH, it sounds like a trilled R, spanish style - like in "perro." Above 30, it's just a roar.
It's there even with the car in neutral and engine off. It goes away completely when turning right, such as on a freeway exit ramp. It does not go away when turning left.
CV boots are intact, no grease to be seen. It started with a set of tires that were due for replacement, so I replaced 'em and the noise hasn't changed. I've jacked it up and don't notice anything unusual when spinning the tires by hand. I even had wifey spin them while I was under the car feeling around the shafts - nothing interesting.
Also, occasionally, I hear a single "doing" sound (like metal rod striking something), from what sounds like front center of the car. Might be unrelated, but I never noticed it until the road noise started up.