I just purchased a 2001 Accent GL, while driving at highway speed it sounds like knobby tire noise on the road, when i turn to the right the noise goes away, does this indicate left CV bad ? is there any bearings up front or is it all CV axle ?
View 3 RepliesI just purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent. I was told it has a bad wheel bearing on the front driver's side. I am assuming that would be the clicking sound that associates with speed. I was told the cv joints or axles were replaced but have a leak. I couldn't see a filler hole or one to check from. I also don't see fluid under the car from parked. Also, there is a humming which sounds like knobby mud tires. The humming disappears during hard right turns.
View 6 RepliesMy accent 1.4L gl at noise on road condition and especially rough road.. I can hear the bumps on the tire LOUDLY.. do i have to change my tires? or spring?
View 16 RepliesMy 2000 accent (manual) suddenly started making a LOT of road noise - like I'm driving on off-road tires. It's speed-sensitive. At 20MPH, it sounds like a trilled R, spanish style - like in "perro." Above 30, it's just a roar.
It's there even with the car in neutral and engine off. It goes away completely when turning right, such as on a freeway exit ramp. It does not go away when turning left.
CV boots are intact, no grease to be seen. It started with a set of tires that were due for replacement, so I replaced 'em and the noise hasn't changed. I've jacked it up and don't notice anything unusual when spinning the tires by hand. I even had wifey spin them while I was under the car feeling around the shafts - nothing interesting.
Also, occasionally, I hear a single "doing" sound (like metal rod striking something), from what sounds like front center of the car. Might be unrelated, but I never noticed it until the road noise started up.
Within the last few days whenever I am backing up there tends to be a low hum noise coming from the passenger side tire when backing up and with no pressure on the brakes. The noise is not present at any time other then backing up so I am really unsure what could be causing it.
What could be causing this before I work on it. I know its not having any problem braking as well as it is also driving straight when the steering wheel is let go in drive.
After replacing the OEM tires at 25,000 I bought new tires at Discount Tire. Road noise seems louder. Would under coating work and is undercoating recommended by Hyundai?
View 18 RepliesMy friend has a 2007 Avalon with 150,000 miles. He ran over a chunk of rubber tire that was in the road and now has a load noise at 40 to 60 mph. He believes that a sound deading material is missing from under the car. He took it to the dealer and they could not determine the cause. He also took it to a local repair shop and they could not fix it. It appears that this material is used in the wheel wells also.
View 1 RepliesHad to get a state inspection this month, and originally failed due to front right outer tie rod and both control arm bushings -- i bit the bullet and had the shop do this work for me, since I am going on vacation this week and i plan on using my car.
Anyhow, got the car back, and now i can hear a light clicking or tapping noise, but i can only really hear it when i put the window down, or if im driving by one of those concrete median dividers. Its as if someone is taking the metal tip of a screwdriver amd tapping it against a hollow metal bowl -- it makes a clicking noise, not a clunking or whirring noise...
I can only hear it when i hit 20mph; any less and i cant hear the clicks. At 20mph, its a slow, faint click that seems to be closely related to the wheel spinning. At 40mph, i can hear it is much faster, but just barely louder. I hear it best at abouf 25-30 mph, before road noises begin to over power the clicks.
Turning does not seem to affect the clicking, nor does braking. Its just constant -- if the wheel is spinning over 20mph, its clicking. Whether i coast or accelerate does not matter. I checked for rocks/nails in my treads, and with the exception of quite a few tiny rocks (which i took out), there doesn't seem to be anything remarkable. I checked my CV boots, and i cant find any signs of tearing or leaking grease...
If it is my CV Joint, wouldnt the mechanic that did my inspection, who caught my tie rod and control a bushings, and who did my alignment -- wouldnt he have also noticed something odd about my CV Joint, if something is indeed wrong?
So I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent that has been a relatively good car for the 11 years I've owened it. About 2 months ago I got a flat tire, which I didn't notice until a passenger in another car told this while waiting at a stop light. I was so close to home (within a mile) that i decided to trek it slowly back. Made it back and a friend of mine put a donut on and I had the two front tires replaced the next day.
Within a week of having the tire changed I noticed several issues with the car. First, it was starting to make a very loud, almost grinding sound. Looked into whether or not tires had anything to do with it since I just had them changed. I pretty much now think its a wheel bearing. It seems to be coming from the right front passenger side. It gets louder as I speed up and also especially loud during left curves and turns.
But all that is background for my real problem. In addition to the above the transmission started acting up. At first I though it was the engine because the problem was initially just sputtering whenever I would slow the car down to a stop. I changed the spark plugs and wires but that didn't work. Then it started having problems shifting. Even going to 3rd now it can take a while, staying at a higher than normal rpm. And when it finally shifts it knocks hard. Only thing I did was have the transmission oil changed since it was about 40k miles past where Hyundai says it should have been done. That worked only slightly (maybe not at all). On top of that, there's also has an engine smell (like hot burnt oil) inside the car when I drive it for an extended amount of time. This was happening before and after the transmission oil change.
These are the first major issues I've had with this car. The only exception is that I've had a failed oxygen sensor twice but that was cheap to have repaired and both times the check engine light was on. It has not turned on once since this started happening. I've stopped driving the car long distances and especially over hills. I go 5 miles between home and work with it now. I was starting to think about getting another car before this happened but I'm still not ready to do that now.
My 2012 RX350 now for over a year and like it a lot.........BUT.
There's seems to be a lot "road noise" that's transmitted back into the cabin, like driving over expansion joints on blacktop or rough road surface, is this normal?
I drove a 2000 RX300 for 100,000 miles and don't remember it being this noisy. Interior noise is great and quiet.
1. What is the "stock" tire size for a 2000 F350 7.3 Super Duty 4x4 SRW?
2. Is there a way to adjust PCM to accommodate different tire sizes?
I have an 03 Accent with an automatic transmission that was recently replaced. I'm getting a ticking noise and I removed the inspection cover and had a look and found that the thin plate bolted to the front of the torque converter is cracked at two of the ears where it bolts on so I suspect that is what's creating the noise.
I hate to have the trans on this car pulled again, I had it done once before because I don't have the tools here to do that. It's just an old work car that never is even driven on the freeway and I was wondering if simply welding that plate up would keep it going or is it something that will break and crack again.
Car ran dangerously low on oil (oil leak that we didn't know was present) and started knocking quite badly.
I pulled the valve cover to check the lifters and everything seemed fine up top. I tried to drop the oil pan but I couldn't get it to separate from the block.
If I can remove the oil pan are the main and rod bearings that hard to change or do they require special tools?
Our 2000 Subaru Outback has just over 200k. We want a vehicle that is safe, but do not want to put a lot of money into this. At the last service the dealership said the left ball joint boot and power steering rack boots need to be replaced and the rear differential bushings are broken or loose. All of this would be > $1000 to repair. They said that the ball joint could get dirty and fail catastrophically and be a safety issue. Is that right or will the steering start to feel rough beforehand? Can we drive it safely?
View 11 RepliesI've had my new Camry a week now with Michelins on them and I feel every crack and bump in the road. Cold pressure they read 33psi. Do these tires need to be "broken in"? .What are you all running? The door label says 35 but that seems high to me.
View 14 RepliesI have a hyundai accent 04 when I start it up there seems to be a ticking noise under the hood. It seems if the car is warmed up the sound decreases. What's going on?
View 7 RepliesMy daughter has a 2005 Accent. She has had it for about a year and it has about 120k on it. She has started to hear a "clunking" noise, based on the sound we think it comes from the driver's side rear. You can feel the car jolt some when the clunking noise happens. Seems to happen on acceleration but does not happen all the time.
Now I have heard/felt the noise/jolt one time and if I did not know better I would say that it was the drive shaft universal. But this being a front wheel drive car there should not be a drive shaft in the rear.
My car makes a low like growling noise when I push on the gas. It does it into first and second gears. Its not constant just mainly after the car has bit sitting a while. What the problem could be?
View 1 RepliesI hear hissing noise when my car A/C is turned on. I have show it in Firestone and the person is like everything seems fine. I do not understand the reason. But the A/C works without any issues.
The hissing noise can be heard everyday when i turn on my A/C initially and later in between i can hear 2 -3 times a day when i go to my office.
So I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent, 1.5L with an automatic transmission. I'm hearing a grinding noise when I'm driving. It gets faster as the car goes faster, but the engine RPM has no effect only the speed of the car.
I got new tires, changed the CV axle shaft on both sides, and I also changed the front struts as I was told that one of the struts was bad the last time I took the car for an alignment. None of that has had any effect on the grinding noise.
Then I jacked the car up on both sides and let the wheels spin, and the grinding noise is present that way as well. Then I jacked up just one side at a time. When the driver's side wheel is spinning, the noise is audible, but not when just the passenger side is spinning.
I then disconnected the brake caliper from the driver's side and held it up with a tie wrap to keep it out of the way. The noise is still audible when the wheel is spinning, so it's not the pads or a clip or anything like that.
So now I'm down to a couple of ideas.
1) Wheel bearings
2) Something is hosed in the differential or transmission. I'm guessing that the differential is more likely, as the transmission should effect both sides the same, right?
I'm going to check the wheel bearings now, though to me it seems unlikely to be the problem.
Lately when I drive my car, I hear like a steam pressure release noise.. And happening ONLY when I have my Fan on in the car.
Sometimes it's soft and sometimes is a long loud one, and then you can feel the car holding in. (like quickly hitting the brakes a little bit)
How to explain it. I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent 2 doors.