Accent LC (2000-05) :: Intermittent Cold Starting With Different Symptoms
Dec 2, 2016
My ugly little 2000 Accent that I've taken careful care of for 240,000 miles has developed an intermittent, multi-symptom cold starting problem, how to solve....
Background on the car: I've owned this car since it had only 9,000 miles, so I know everything that's happened to it over the years. I've kept up on all the regularly-scheduled maintenance over the years and miles - oil changes, timing belts, engine coolant, water pump, belts and hoses, pcv valve, plugs & wires, fuel and air filters, transmission fluid, etc.
No check engine light on, no codes to diagnose available
Not leaking oil from the top or the bottom
No vacuum leaks
Runs strong, no loss of power or rough running at idle or under load
No major components related to spark and fuel delivery have been replaced - coil pack, fuel pump, etc
Symptoms:
Starting problem 1 - The car will simply refuse to catch and start up, sometimes for as long as 10-15 seconds of cranking, after which it starts and runs normally. This happens infrequently, but has been becoming more frequent in recent months.
Starting problem 2 - The car will immediately start to fire (one or more of the cylinders will catch), but will hesitate to fully start up for about 2-3 full engine rotations, what I would describe as a rough start.
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I have just joined, and posted as below, not sure where it went though so here it is again. As I suspect with many others newbies I am posting to try and solve a problem. I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent diesel (with only 54000 on the clock) which worked OK for over a year. I now has an intermittent starting fault. It played up in the winter, fiddled with the fuel filter and was OK for months, also had it serviced beginning of year. It then played up again a few times recently so had the fuel filter changed. Now worse than ever! This model does not have glow plugs, apparently a fuel heater. If starts 1st time works perfectly. Otherwise it can take up to 10 times to start. Seems no particular circumstances. Usually starts from cold but I do a lot of stop start driving. Took back to local garage and they couldn't get it not to start! Started ok 3 times this morning only to stop on the 4th. I fiddle with the fuel filter and connections and it goes, but this could be pure co-incidence?
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I have a 2000 Accent with 90k miles. The last week or two, it takes about 5- 6 seconds of cranking to start when the engine is cold. Having had the car since new, I know that it's not normal.
The engine seems to crank strongly, and once started idles and drives well. This occurs once about every 4 starts when engine cold. Warm engine starts normal.
Changed plugs - no difference. Maintenance current per owners manual schedule.
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My daughter has a 2000 accent , SOHC 12V, I think it's the 1.5L.. It will not stay running when the engine is cold...........after it warms up, or if it sits in the hot sun it's fine................it has 166K .
She said she took it to an auto parts store and had the engine code read, p1123 came up.....
Code P1123 : Long term fuel trim, at idle - mixture too rich..
What do you think this is caused by................ the inlet air temp sensor? I was told someone just replaced the air max flow sensor, that don't sound correct to me, but that's what they called it....probably the MAF sensor....
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My 2010 has the intermittent noise when starting in the cold. Brought car to dealer with printout of the TSB from December and they will not repair it unless they duplicate the noise. Also I read about a rear motor mount to be replaced.
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx with under 100,000 miles. Battery 1 year old, starter 3 months old. On cool or cold mornings I have intermittent starting issues. All lights come on, instrument panels gauges and indicators function right, no clicking or any noise. Just won't start. Typically if I come back in a couple of hours, it starts right up. Once it starts, I have no other starting problem with it the rest of that day.
On Christmas eve morning it wouldn't start. It didn't start for 2 days. I jumped it and got it started once, but after revving it and sriving it for 10 minutes I turned it off and tried to start it again - but couldn't. I wouldn't even jump after that. 2 days later, I had it towed to a shop where they removed the starter and greased the connections - and it started. They then sent it over to a Chevy dealer who checked all the codes (It never turns up any codes when it doesn't start) - but since there were none, they flashed the computer and started it 20+ times - no problems. They sent it back to the shop who also started it a bunch of times with no problems. They sent it back to me and it worked for another week or so before it started happening again.
It is not every morning - only random mornings. Except for that one day, it will always start later on in the day.
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Vehicle: 1995 960 wagon
Background: Exhibits intermittent no-start behavior in both warm and cold weather, wet and dry weather, having sat overnight, or only sitting a few minutes. Turns over fine, but won't start. Sunday, it started fine several times, went to Home Depot, wouldn't start. Called a friend to pick me up. When he was almost there, I tried it again and it started back fine. Been in shop a few times, they played around with a few electrical connections, battery cables and grounds to injectors. Also replaced fuel pump. I have not verified if it is a fuel or spark problem, I just bought a FI fuel pressure gauge last night.
Once started, it does fine. It never stalls or cuts out. That is why I am leaning toward a CPS (that's what jeep people call it.) Sometimes, under the slow cranking speed (relative to idle) the signal is too weak to be useful. However, during idle and normal operation, the flywheel is moving fast enough that the signal is much stronger (being a magnetic pickup). Thus, the reason it only happens during starting, not during running.
Here's my current working theory: Bad crank position sensor (is that Volvo people call it?)
This is the only part I can think of that would cause this. A fuel pump problem would probably show up during running. I think the pump also receives a signal from the cam sensor, so if that sensor were the problem, it would happen during running too, not just starting. It the cam sensor an optical sensor? Shouldn't cause it to not start, although it might cause a difficult start.
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My son has a 2000 Impala which will not start if it has been warmed up and then turned off for 30-40 minutes. If you turn it off and wait 15 minutes it will start every time - wait much longer and you are stranded. The starter sounds normal and you would think it is going to start but it won't. The car sat at the dealership for 2 weeks and they couldn't solve the problem. If the car is cold it starts every time.
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I have a 98 Grand Cherokee (V-8) with 127K on it, that sometimes during cold starts acts like an old carburetor system with the choke sticking. It floods, chokes, it sputters, and you have to maintain an RPM of about 2000 to keep it running and get it to snap out of it. A local shop did a tune up on it before this problem started to happen intermittently, aside from this, it seems to run well. I took it back to the shop and they did several diagnostic tests and even got it to do it for them while they had it.
I told them that it seemed like if we released the key from the start position as soon as it began to fire, the problem would happen, if we held it I the start for a bit longer we could usually avoid it. They returned it to me saying that "Yup, if you hold the start position longer it won't happen, and by the way here is a bill for $103." With the recent below zero temps, it's getting worse, almost unavoidable. My wife says it uses a lot of fuel when this is happening but we have not actually tracked the mileage. Other than this it's a great car but I'm ready to drive it off a high mountain cliff.
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Gremlin that causes the car to take a few tries to start when it is cold or damp? I've read that the crank sensor and fuel pump/fuel injection relays are possible culprits, but since the crank sensor is almost $100 I'm hesitant to throw money at an intermittent problem without a 100% diagnosis
-No codes in computer
-Brand new battery
-Mint NGK Platinum spark plugs
-Runs like a top once it starts
-5W20 synthetic oil
Usually it starts first flick of the key. Sometimes first flick fails no matter how long i hold it, then second flick it starts fine. If its really cold it sometimes takes up to 5 attempts. It cranks but doesn't "catch". The actual cranking itself is very strong with no hesitation which tells me it isn't starter, battery or thick oil.
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So I have a 2000 Buick, and it generally starts. However, twice now at random times the car hasn't started. It doesn't turn over, but makes a buzzing sound. The strange thing is, that usually after leaving it alone for a few hours, it will start as though there are no problems. I assume it's some kind of electrical issue, but I would love some input on the possible problems with my car.
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I recently bought a 2003 Hyundai Accent 1.6L DOHC manual transmission hatchback with 124000 miles. So far the work I have done in the car include replacing front bank 02 sensor, new flex pipe, exhaust manifold replaced with a used OEM part. Everything is going great with the car except that the check engine light is on with the P0442 and I occasionally smell gas or exhaust fumes (not sure) while driving and it goes away. My combined mpg is only about 23mpg.
I replaced the gas cap with a brand new OEM part then cleared the CEL. However, after driving 90 miles, it went back on so I brought it to my mechanic who recommended a smoke test. After the smoke test, he said the charcoal canister and the diagnostic module needs to be replaced. Is it worth replacing to fix the CEL code and if the code is related to me smelling fumes inside the car while driving. Also, I would like to know if there might be another problem causing this code instead of the charcoal canister or the diagnostic module.
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I have a 2000 LC that has a few symptoms - intermittent misfire/running rough at these times it has:
dark smoke
uses 3 times the fuel
loss of power (to normal)
will pick up revs slow without running rough and runs normal at high revs.
dies misses and then picks up revs slowly when accelerator is pushed fast to the floor from idle.
Hyundai mechanics checked computer and it coded change spark plug leads this did not fix the problem, and have no idea.
About 6 months ago the car was doing the intermittent thing when it died and liquid was heard splashing on the ground. I found the main petrol line connecting to the pump had come completely off. After replacing all problems ceased and the car ran perfect with full power etc.
I've checked the fuel lines none appear to be leaking etc.
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I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent hatchback with 98k miles. About a month ago we were headed out of town and got gas about a mile away from the house. After filling up, the car wouldn't start. It would crank but not fire. Tried for about 15mins to no avail. Had it towed to local mechanic and it started right away. They kept it for the weekend and said they had no problems starting it, so without experiencing the problem they said they would just be throwing parts at it.
About 2 weeks after my wife drove to store and when she went to leave and same experience, but this time it started after trying for a couple of mins. Then just this Tuesday it wouldn't start in the morning. When it just cranks but not fire it shows a pending P0335 (crankshaft position sensor). So I ordered the part (won't arrive til Friday). When I got home I tried to start it as well to no avail; tried again Wednesday morning and evening, nothing. Then this morning (Thursday) it starts right up. Once its started it runs great. After recurrence of no start 2 weeks ago, I replaced spark plugs and spark plug wires.
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This is what my car is doing after it warms up. It will do it then stop, then do it again and so on. I am pretty sure when the motor is under load it runs a little rough but is hard to tell. The car has 178,000 miles on it. timing belt was done at 113,000. I just replace the plugs and wires changed the oil and the air filter 1,000 miles ago. and it will still do it. I am at a loss as to why it keeps doing this. I have tried injector cleaner, sea foam and engine restore. What would cause this? The check engine light is not on. i replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor about 40,000 miles ago.
Its a 2003 hatch with the 1.6 5 speed .....
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I have an accent 2001 saloon which I bought a few months back. Turned out to be a real bargain but the door locking feature is really irritating. It will work 2-3 times in a row then stop for the rest of the day. The next day it works first thing but may not work again for several hours. Then 2-3 times in a row .. yeah you guessed it - the dreaded intermittent fault.
Now, the door handle inside the door has broken (plastic piece has snapped) so I am fitting a new one. Thought it might be a good idea, while I am at it, to have a look inside the door. I took out the whole door lock mechanism - see photo 1. Having found I could get it out, I put it back pending a bit of advice.
I presume that there is some sort of electric-powered actuator or solenoid or whatever, that locks all the doors from the drivers side. Is the piece I am talking about, the close up in photo 2?
If so, (or not) what is the likely fault here, and what can I do about it? I have put some WD 40 spray into the locks and eased them a bit. Otherwise not sure what to change/replace.
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The front intermittent wipers on my 2004 hyundai accent will start then stop half way,continue all the way in the same direction then return half way and finally park. I have replaced the wiper stork switch and wiper relay [blue one in engine bay fuse box]. What controls the intermittent function? is it the bcm? and where's located?. I also have 2000 accent and its fitted with an intermittent wiper relay p/n95240-33000. The '04 is not fitted with one. I have contacted Hyundai and they weren't support.
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My 2004 Accent GLS has stalled intermittently for me and my daughter several times. However, the mechanics cannot replicate the problem and it is not revealing any codes when analyzed. Additional details would include the fact that the stalling incidents have occurred while sitting in slow traffic or when slowing when approaching an intersection. After it stalls, 3 of the 4 times it started again within 10 minutes.
This last time, it took several hours before we were able to restart it. There is no fuel smell when restarting. The check engine light is not on. The problem actually began as a "failure to start" problem, which I thought could have been a faulty battery as, even though the engine was turning over and I didn't really suspect the battery, it would start when jumped. The problem then moved to a stalling problem.
So far, I've replaced a battery (probably a waste), the mechanic found some frayed wires coming from the ignition which he fixed and I'm now having them replace the crank sensor. Does replacing this sensor, though no code is apparent, on the right track? Should I be focused elsewhere? Is there a common 2004 Accent problem? It's my daughter's first car and only has 67,000 miles on it, so I'm in no hurry to get a new car!
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Hyundai makes squeaky noise when starting and stopping engine, starting to move and also when traveling at speed (during gear changing, turning, etc). What causes it? See website below for video with noise:
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I have a Hyundai-Accent 1.5 GL, Auto, year 2000 car. I bought this 4 months ago and ever since it has been giving the check engine signal. However, running conditions of the car has been normal and therefore, I didn't worry about the check engine signal. Now, the engine is rough idling for few seconds when I start the car in the morning, and then it comes back to normal.
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I have a 2005 hyundai accent (manual) with 140k miles on it that just broke down on me. I was driving to work and after about 10 minutes of driving I go to pull off my exit and I feel it for the first time, my rpms stay steady but the power drops for a few seconds before returning to normal. About 5 minutes later I'm putting around the parking lot and it's having trouble accelerating and reving to the point that it won't really move. I push it to a spot and let it sit for 5-10 minutes before starting it back up in an attempt to get it to a gas station to try and add fuel (quick Google search makes it sound like a fuel pump and the tank is pretty low). It accelerated in fits and makes it about two blocks feeling anemic. Oil changed about 2k miles ago (but is below the L mark on the dip stick when I just checked. I never see leaks though)
The engine ran and idled beautifully before this. No CELs.
Replaced the fuel pump. However, when I opened the port to the fuel pump assembly, there was almost no gas. So I think I might have just run out of gas and the problem was with the gauge.
Now it won't start with ~4 gallons in the tank.
I know the pump functions because I've pulled off the output tube at the pump and it'll spit out gas.
I know there's gas in the fuel rail because I pulled off the input hose.
I pulled off one spark plug to check for spark and it appeared to work.
I checked the resistance at 3/4 of the fuel injectors and they were within spec.
I've checked all the fuses.
I don't get any codes from OBD scanner I borrowed from Autozone (I've disconnected the battery a couple of times though)
I don't have a way to hook up the fuel pressure gauge I borrowed form Autozone because I don't have the adaptor.
Minus the clutch, I've done basically all maintenance myself, although certainly not a great mechanic.
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