Accent LC (2000-05) :: Idle Speed Lost And Engine Stops
Jul 6, 2011
Sometimes I loose the idle speed and the engine stops when I stop the car but it could be started again with full throttle it doesn't happen always it happens from time to time > I changed the MAP, IS actuator and TPS .The fuel pump and filter is new .In rare cases engine stops during driving. How about flash programming the ECU
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I need diagnosing a problem on my 2002 Hyundai Accent LC. When I accelerate with the aircon on the engine stops accelerating at high RPM and when I accelerate from a stand still the engine hesitates and jerks! I don't understand what the problem may be coz it works perfectly after a cold start but after it warms it starts doing that.
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My friend's Accent LC 1.3L won't start from time to time. This never happens on cold start, this is always the situation after warm engine stops and needs to be run again after 5-15 minutes. When you try to turn on the car then, starter is rolling the engine but nothing happens (Yellow key light on dashboard is on, so there is no problem with a key code). Then he wait for a few minutes and car starts like it nothing happens. I suspect the crankshaft sensor.
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My hyundai accent 2005, have problem of jerks /die speed after engine get warm, also increase if AC on, when I starts car in morning it works great and no problem but after 3 or 5 km as engine get hotter speed kills,but it happens more or worst in evening at 4 when returning from office and temp is 45+ in riyadh, saudiarabia.
I change air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, spark cables, also use fuel injector cleaner but still problem remains, I want to tell you its start when I changed engine valve cover gasket due to oil leak, as I changed this problem suddenly appeared, I went to other mechanic but he told me the problem not in valve cover gasket,it is somewhere else he clean my throttle body ,and its works for 2 day only that i felt the problem solved but after two days problem appeared again,there is no engine light power on for any electronic malfunctioning.
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I have a 2003 Accent with the 1.6 DOHC.
It has been fine, but now it is acting up. Car has about 90,000 miles on it. The engine will start fine, hot or cold out. Sometimes the car will idle fine and warm up, sometimes it will idle for a few minutes and then cut off, will not restart until engine cools off. No, it isnt getting hot.
You can start the car, keep your foot on the gas a little to keep it above 1000 rpm or so, and it is fine until it warms up. If you start the car, go a 100 yards and take your foot off the gas it will cut off and not restart until the engine cools.
I replaced the ISB or whatever that thing is called, no change. No check engine lights come on at all. I took the throttle body off and cleaned it with cleaner, seemed to work ok for a day, then the same thing all over again.
What should I check now, very frustrating, but the little thing gets great gas mileage.
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A couple of times over the past several months (once last summer and again last week), my 02 Camry LE 4-cylinder has lost/forgotten the idle speed and stalled. Simple enough to fix the issue, but aggravating and possibly dangerous (last summer it happened while I was in stop-and-go traffic on the interstate). What causes this?
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My 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6 runs fantastic and has since I purchased it three year's ago until two weeks ago when my domestic partners friend changed the spark plugs, oil, air filter and stuff so I could go on a short trip and back. About 200 miles into it I pulled into a rest stop and noticed it was rough before I put it in park. As soon as I put it in reverse it was running rough and sounded like it was going to die. Forty miles later the check engine light was on and it was running terrible. A parts store recommended different spark plugs. A nice man who was there overheard the conversation and offered to put them in for me since I know nothing about doing. He said he gapped the spark plugs at 0.40? When I started it it ran like a dream until about 75 miles later and it began doing it again but the light never came on. It is doing the same thing which is a rough idle when stopped but it smooths out when I put it in park.
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I've had this problem now for 3 months basically when the car is sitting on idle it can just cut out, it can be restarted straight away no problems then might cut out again or might run fine for 40 minutes before it does it again, there is no real pattern to the problem it can happen whenever. It also happens when driving the car the car will cut out then as you are moving it will bump start itself i.e., restart no problems and you can carry on driving as normal until the next time it does it again there is no pattern to the problem. Ive taken it into 2 garages and they don't know what it could be as all sensors are running fine as they should do, and in the process I've also changed,
TPS sensor
MAP sensor
Idle control valve
Crankshaft position sensor
both of my batteries ( car has two because of audio system)
done ful service ie spark plugs, oil filter, oil, fuel filter,
fuel pump relay
had ecu checked
changed main ecu power relay
had a totally new alarm fitted
Just dont know what could be causing this issue....
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I just bought a 2012 hyundia accent automatic two months ago with 92,000 miles on it. I put everything i had down on it so now I don't have a lot for warranty co-pay or anything. After two weeks of owning it i got a P0420 code and a light tapping noise. Well i was going to work (i drive up and down mountains) and when i headed up an incline my rpms jumped from three to five and lost all speed. I pulled into rest stop and was freaking out. Anyway after about an our of me looking i decided to just shake my car back and forth. I got in and pulled back onto interstate and the car was fine..except for a baffled sound now with light tapping. I cant figure why after it cooled it ran ok. Makes me wonder if i had bad gas or something. Well fast forward one month and now i am throwing P420, P0011, P0326,and using one quart of oil every 300 miles. I have done the oil change, injector cleaner, airfilter. I am gonna change the pcv valve today and see if that works.
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I just replaced the front and back motor mounts on my 02, 1.6 automatic accent. The front replacement mount was 1/2 inch too wide at where the bolt goes through, but made do. Now, the idle, but that's it. Before, it was vibrating somewhat at idle and lots of steering wheel vibration at highway speed. Now, I have no vibration of the wheel at highway speed, so it's like I eliminated one problem and made the other worse. I am hoping that the mount being too wide is the problem as I ordered the correct one. While taking it apart, I also noted the bolt through the front motor mount is incredibly small compared to the hole and this was true on both the original and the too big replacement. Why is this? Assuming that I swap out the too big mount for the proper and it still vibrates, than what?
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I bought a 2005 Hyundai Accent about 5-6 months ago, GS 2 Dr model, 52,000kms (69,000 on her now), and lately she has been making a weird ticking sound form the engine when idle, if you give her some gas it slowly goes away as your RPMS increase. I had my father look at it, he said it seems fine, i also had a garage look at it and they also said its fine, but too me the engine sounds different then it did when i got it, maybe the cold from the winter could be doing this? when the engine is heated up it still makes the noise.
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I would like to know if for the Accent 2003 there is a component that commonly fails and causes a P0108.
Vacuum seems to be ok. At least I can't find any leaks. Pressure at idle is normally at about 30kPa (4.3PSI). It ranges normally between 30 and 50kPa (7.2PSI). When the fault was set it indicated 125kPa (18PSI).
Sometimes the engine runs unstable at idle.
It seems to be an intermittent fault. If I clear the fault it can take about 2 days to reappear.
Otherwise I will have to go through checking the MAP sensor itself, wire harness, idle motor, is that about right?
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Been having a fair bit of trouble with my accent, at first my car sometimes would hesitate on acceleration in 1st gear. Now it has a rough idle and the engine just completely cuts out at random. It does however start straight back up. It makes an odd noise whilst idling almost like a misfire from the exhaust. On start up it blows a lot of white smoke. And when you do get driving it is really jerky. It's been serviced every 5000ks. I've changed spark plugs, map sensor and throttle body sensor, put a fuel injector cleaner through and still no improvements. It's been booked into the mechanics for next Tuesday.
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Car just stopped accelerating on highway. It starts again after about 10 minutes. Also the wheel gets stiff when it stops accelerating. What could be wrong?
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Recently bought a 2001 Accent that has been experiencing a 'rough idle' for the last few weeks. Basically, after I've driven the car for a few minutes (from a cold engine position) and then stop at a stop light or stop sign, I can hear the engine get louder and the car starts to vibrate slightly, after I've driven for about 15 minutes at higher speeds and then stop again I can actually see the steering wheel shaking when I take my hands off of it. If i put the car in park when I am stopped and the engine is on, the idle calms down quite a bit. The weird part is that when I first start driving the car in the morning, the rough idle problem doesn't happen until about 5 minutes of steady driving - so when the engine is colder I don't experience the problem, The problem is not that serious, and Ive already brought it into a dealer who cleaned out fuel injection, gave me a major tune up and replaced all the spark plugs, but the problem still persists. I am gonna bring it back to them but they seem a bit lost to be honest. Other than this the car is driving normally when I am not idling.
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i recently changed my engine oil and filter from carquest brand to quaker state and about 500 miles later, i started having some issues like, rough idle and loud ticking and bottom engine noise. is that just a coincidence or any problems with this oil? 1.6L D.O.H.C.
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I have the opportunity of getting i believe a 2004 accent gt for next to nothing. It recently lost reverse and all gears aside from first. The codes it is triggering are p0734 p0732 and p0733. Prior to throwing the codes it moved back but wouldn't budge forward. With codes no reverse or any gear higher than first. Car has 160k miles I am pretty mechanical. Should I run from this "cheap" "gas saver" or pick it up? With all 3 codes could it be just that sensor?
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I have a 2002 Accent 1.6L and when I turn the wheels all the way too the right or all the way to the left the pulley stops spinning. Could this be that the pump is going bad or something else?
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Noticed this to be a problem with our older 2011 Accent, now with the 2012 Accent.
The car has a rough idle usually in mornings, it seems like it is going to stall at stops, it also has a tough time accelerating.
The computer scan does not show there is anything wrong until the problem becomes worse.
This is what I have discovered through the 2011 Accent. Car will stall at stops. Very inconvenient in rush hour traffic. Until they replace the Crankshaft Point Censor, the problem would not go away.
I would insist on looking at this rather than replacing sparkplugs or having any other service performed if one is experiencing these same symptoms. The good thing is it is under warranty.
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My 2003 made a sharp mechanical noise one day, next thing I knew it lost the ability to shift out of 2nd gear....Now, it can still shift into 2nd gear when cold, but only after holding rpm for a bit and then suddenly jerking into 2nd gear. Once it's warmed up for a few minutes though, after dropping out of 2nd gear, that's it! Then it's stuck in 1st gear the rest of the time. Reverse doesn't work anymore at any time, and it gave me code P0732 to P0734 which should be gears 2 - 4. Is it possible that not being to get out of 1st means 2nd gear is broken, but the other 2 are okay and it just can't get shift past 2nd? Or might all 3 have problems after all?
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I'm not very mechanical when it comes to cars. I have never had any clutch issue with my car. I arrived to work yesterday fine. When I started to leave it was incredibly hard to get into reverse and I had to force shifting after I left and the clutch had also lost all resistance and I could easily push it all the way to the ground. What could be a cause of the clutch always working perfect including the last time you drove it, and then 8 hours later you start up and it has done a 180. The fluid level is fine. I would presume if my clutch had went I have have slowly noticed it going.
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