Accent LC (2000-05) :: How To Replace Front Driver Side Indicator Bulb
Dec 18, 2013
Just bought a 2005 accent yesterday. I new the bulb was gone, when I lifted the bottom noticed that the battery is so close to the lights I can't get my hand down there. Do I need to remove my battery to replace this bulb? Also what is the model # of the bulb?
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I just purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent. I was told it has a bad wheel bearing on the front driver's side. I am assuming that would be the clicking sound that associates with speed. I was told the cv joints or axles were replaced but have a leak. I couldn't see a filler hole or one to check from. I also don't see fluid under the car from parked. Also, there is a humming which sounds like knobby mud tires. The humming disappears during hard right turns.
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At times, not often but on my 04, when I turn headlights on, the drivers side front window will go down, and when I work the switch to make it go up, the passenger side front window will go down.
I don't have a wiring diagram for the car, so tracing the circuits would be next to impossible.
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One of the fog lamps on my 2009 Hyundai Accent has blown and I want to replace it, but I am not particularly technical. How to do this? Or any website or video tutorial.
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Is there a way to change the bulb without removing the grill and headlight? Seems like a lot of work to replace a bulb. 2013 F350....
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I am replacing my front passenger side door on my 2000 Jetta GLX. I have been searching online for detailed instructions on how to do this, but have turned up empty handed.
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How to replace a front parking light bulb?
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Looking for instructions on how to replace the bulb on the passenger side?
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I replaced my my front hub assemblies on my 2003 F250, 4x4, about two years ago and my driver side hub is leaking. I first noticed it the other day when I tried to shift into 4 wheel drive and my hubs would not lock in the ESOF system.
I used a vacuum pump and it leaked down pretty fast so I assume the knuckle/axle seal is the culprit.
I plan on ordering these three seals:
Amazon.com: f81z-1s175-hca
I am also noticing another # for the axle seal. It is 3C3Z-3254-CA. Which is correct for my 2003?
Are my questions would I actually need to replace all three? The dust seal is not leaking at the moment. Should I go ahead and replace it anyway?
What type of grease do I need to use the seals? I have some disc brake bearing lithium grease in the cabinet. Will this work or do I need to get a specific type
Lastly, I've seen a post where members have made their seal seating tool out of the galvanized pipe, cap, and a flange. The flange is said to be too large and it would have to be ground down for the right diameter.
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I have a 2003 W8 wagon and my front turn signal bulb went out. I need to replace it, but am having some problems. I removed the high beam cover to get to the turn signal socket, but I am having problem removing the socket. I was able to turn the socket slightly and was hoping I could just pull it back, unfortunately it doesn't seem to want to move. Is there a trick to remove the turn signal socket so I can remove the bulb? I don't want to force anything in fear of breaking something. there has to be a way.
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There is no solenoid on the drivers door just an energising switch so a remote system, without modifications, will not open the drivers door.
To get it to work you would need to source & fit a solenoid into the drivers door, wire it, then wire in the remote locking box for the remote function - complicated for the average person and expensive otherwise.
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My driver side brake light is not working. I noticed it yesterday after changing my front brake pads. The bulb won't light up. I changed the bulb and didn't fix it. I checked fuses and all were good. The running light and turn signal both work on the tail light and the passenger tail light is fine and everything works on it. A couple hours after I noticed the driver side tail brake light wasn't working the hatch brake light went out. Not sure if it was just bad timing for the bulb to go out or not. I think I may just need to get a new wire harness for it. Not sure.
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2002 accent with the driver window stuck down. I have the door panel off and when i look up I see the pulley with the cable balled up and two cable ends hooked to nothing.
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2003 Hyundai Accent 4 door. Well its been raining here in Portland Oregon non stop and this morning I went to get in my car and smelled a mildew odor so I took out the drivers floor mat and the carpet was soak. Then I laid back the carpet and that grey spongy covering thats under the pedals was soaked to the bone like a sponge.
I did a test with a water by putting the hose on top of the roof of the accent and turning it on full bore and nothing leaked in the car. I sat in their for a good 5 minutes with the hose blaring down the windshield and door sides. I even took a jack and lifted the car up too see if there was any cracks or a rusty hole underneath but nothing. So Im completely stumped on this I do have A/C and the drain hose is clear since I have been using my defrosters and the A/C pump kicks on.
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The other day I replace the front brake pads and rotors on my daughter's '03 Accent. On the test drive I noticed a scraping noise coming from the driver's side. Got it home and didn't see anything obvious, but for fun I removed the pads and swapped the shims around. It was better, and afterwards I put the new brakes through a few heat cycles. The scraping noise became less noticeable so I figured she should just drive it for a few days. Well today I'm informed that the noise is "really bad".
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All my lights on the driver side don't work, replaced brake light and then nothing. Would it be a fuse? if so which one or wiring and how would I go about finding the fault.
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My 2005 Prius has 95k miles on it. I've been hearing a cluck-cluck-cluck noise from near the front driver side wheel. I had an independent mechanic test drive it, who said the wheel bearing needs replacement. Should I have it checked out by a Toyota dealer? They're so much more expensive, but are is it worth taking it to them?
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Having problem with the front electric window sliding out of it's track? My friend's 2001 Accent has been doing this with the driver's window when going up. It gets between about 1/4 to 1/3 closed and suddenly the glass jumps slightly left out of the track on the right-hand side of the door frame.
The drivers door is on the right, it's the tallest part of the door frame it's jumping out from. If the glass is pushed right by hand it pops back into the track and the window can be closed normally.
I've had the door card off and can't see anything broken with the window regulator. With the window down it's possible to rock the glass left and right so something is obviously loose or not holding as it should be, but I can't find any loose or broken clips where the glass is attached to the white plastic thing which holds it onto the central regulator rail, it all looks intact.
I was expecting to find something broken or slack which could be causing this but I really can't.
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Noise sounds like its coming from driver's side. It's not terrible until you hit 30-40km/h, after that its quite loud. No whistling sounds, which i was told to listen for if it were a wheel bearing (although I ma not convinced is the only sound a warn bearing makes).
The sound sometimes goes away when I am on a bend turning left (taking the weight off the drivers side wheel).
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I have a 2000 Hyundai accent and the exterior door handle on the driver side does not work. It will open from the inside...I already have the door panel off but not sure how to fix the rest.
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Recently replaced the head and gasket on 2010 accent blue. Torqued to factory specs. There is an oil leak between the head and block in the front driver side. Can i tighten that bolt? Is there a break in period, do i need to re-torque or buy another gasket and head bolts?
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