Accent LC (2000-05) :: How To Fix 4th Gear Incorrect Ratio On A Rebuilt Tranny
Feb 28, 2014
I had the transmission rebuilt a year and a half ago, when I took it in it came up 4th gear incorrect ratio. The guy who rebuilt it said it wasn't the original tranny that came with the car because it was modified to fit in the car. When I got it back, after a couple hundred miles or so, the check engine light would come on for a day or two then go off. When the check engine was on it would get stuck in 3rd gear, once the light went off all was well until the next time. I took it back to the guy who rebuilt it since it was still under warranty. the P1529 code came up for TCM issue. He put some sensors and a chip in and thought it fixed it, no such luck. Finally I had the cash and had it looked at by another shop and the 4th gear incorrect ratio came up as well as the P1529 TCM code. He's suggestion to fix it was to either get a used tranny or rebuild this one again. He believes since it isn't the original tranny that the tranny in there now was for a SOHC engine, not a DOHC engine and that's why the ratio in 4th gear is off and it throws the TCM code.
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So I got around and decided to fix my transmission my self. Any way I got the code PO734 from my CE light which is gear 4 incorrect ratio. So some people say its the solenoids that cause this issue, some say its the 4th gear clutch...
So, Is it the solenoid or it could be the clutch itself? Ive removed the 4th gear from my transmission today and it looks intact. No weird damage or physical like damage on it... I just don't know which to do since solenoid job i can do myself which will be about 5 hours minimum....
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Just picked up a 2002 golf 2.0 auto for $200. Get the car home start it up and it runs great but... transmission shifts all kinds of funky. Starts in first then shifts to third. If I give it some gas it shifts down to second but has nothing there, just revs. Will not go into 4th at all. Throw my little mac scanner on it some codes come up. Only one that mattered was p0277 if I remember. Do a little search and it comes up as the g68 under the tranny mount. Change that out and had not cel. Still shifting the same but no code at all. Throw my scanner on just to see and get p0730 incorrect gear ratio.
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Bought a Mk4 1.8T gti last year had only about 75,000 on it and drove it for about 10,000 miles. The check engine light went on about 2 months ago and the code read 3rd gear incorrect ratio. It still rode fine until about a week ago when it started slipping. Brought it to the local transmission guys in my town and got a quote at about $3,000-$3,500 to have the transmission rebuilt. The transmission is a tiptronic automatic 6-speed.
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Was doing some errands this morning and on the way home the transmission shifted a little strangely into 2nd. I had to let off the throttle for it to shift.
Fluid levels are correct and not burnt with no residue floating with a pinkish red color. Using Schaeffer's All-Trans Supreme.
I have read all of the threads related to the P0732 and the mechanical diode issue. Does the e99 4R100 have the mechanical diode? If not, what else could it be?
I also have the P0500 VSS sensor circuit fault which an old Ford mechanic stated could be related to a bad fuel sending unit which is definitely bad on this truck.
Am planning to go out and clean the sensor on the differential. Speedometer is working properly. I have also noticed what appeared to be a small slip when in reverse a couple of times that I initially attributed to tire spin. Is any of this related? Should I be prepared to rebuild/replace the transmission?
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Have a 2003 F350 srw 4x4, 107,000 miles on it. Driving it last night tow/haul light started flashing, hooked up AE got a P0730 Incorrect gear ratio. Truck seem to do ok, cut it off went back out a little while later and the tow/haul didn't flash.... Only issues I've had is when shifting from P to R, it takes a second or two longer than it should and shifts hard when it does but it doesn't do it every time.
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I recently bought a 2002 Accent with the 1.6 auto 133000 miles. I have been reading the postS around here about the crappy transmission. My car seems to have some life in the tranny still but it has slipped from 3rd to 4th gear around 45 mph when i get on the gas too hard. Its also a little sluggish to start off. My question is should i change the fluid out knowing i have a slipping issue? The reason i ask is that last time i changed the fluid and filter on a Jeep that was slipping i ended up having to rebuid it. Is that a real possibility if i change the fluid in this Hyundai?
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My problems started out around the beginning of the year. Mostly, it was the transmission. It would slam really hard when shifting. Worst, sometimes while on the freeway, it would shift on it's own, for no reason, into a lower gear and get stuck. (Happened twice and was really scary).
Along with this, a couple times I would start it up and it would rev really hard, about twice what it normally would.
Usually, with the revving, I could turn it off and back on, and it would stop. A few times I could disconnect the battery, reconnect, and it'd be fine.
As for the tranny, I could turn it off then back on and sometimes that would work. Other times after a few miles it'd work itself out.
I did take it to my local Hyundai dealership. The first few times they couldn't get any code to pop, and they couldn't simulate the issue. It was very random when it'd happen. Luckily, on the 3rd try, they did get the tranny to shift hard. They said it was a bad tranny and replaced it (free due to warranty).
Unfortunately, that hasn't gotten rid of the issue. After a few months... maybe 3K - 4K miles the issue is back. Again, it's very random.
I've had the high revving which I've had to disconnect the battery to resolve. And the tranny is slamming again.
I don't notice any other issues. No engine light (except the one time the engine was revving really high and I had to disconnect the battery to reset, then the light went off).
Sometimes I can go a month with no issues. Sometimes it'll happen back to back days.
Could it be a computer issues? Is that something I can fix/change out as a novice?
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I have 2 problems and the other is posted. I have a 99 silverado 4x4 Z71 with 149,000 miles. Just had my tranny rebuilt (all new parts including electronics). I just gave an oil change using castrol high mileage oil 10w-30. I used to use castrol 5w-30 regular oil. I just noticed an oil leak on my driveway. It seems to be coming from the tranny housing (rear main seal). I have wiped it down and am still looking for the source of the leak. I have rechecked the drain plug and the oil filter and both are tight.
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I just had my tranny rebuilt it doesn't shift hard all the time but it does from time to time going from 2nd -3rd and 3rd -4th I thought being new it may need to soak up some fluid so the bands can swell so I ask the shop that rebuilt it that question he said they soaked them as they rebuilt it so they should be swollen already then he proceeded to tell me it was electrical is he telling me the truth because the ck engine light isn't showing any faults and if it was electric shouldn't that have been fixed in the shop while it was being rebuilt if it was interior electronic?
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What's too big? I just put 33s on my super duty, is it "too much" for the transmission?
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I have also owned a 2001 hyundai accent for almost 6 years now. This is the vehicle I drive to and from work. Today I was pulling off the on ramp onto the interstate and when I shifted to fifth-year it took for a few seconds and then all of a sudden I had absolutely no pull in 5th gear. There was a small pop sound but I can't be too sure exactly what it sounded like. And there is a really bad rattle from the tranny whenever the car is running 2000 RPM in fifth gear any higher than that then there's no noise at all and no pull. The RPMs just go up as if you're revving the car in neutral. I just wanted to know if that pretty much tells me that fifth gear is gone and I need to replace the transmission or have it rebuilt.
My other question is I've been looking up on the Internet to find a replacement transmission and so far I found out that for the 1.6 L if my car was made after March 8, 2001 that it requires a different transmission. But my car was built in September 2000 and I was wondering if the manual transmission was the same on the 1.5 L and the 1.6 L.
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My accent currently has just under 17k and about two months ago displayed a cel. I plugged in my innova 3100 code scanner and it displayed p0441. saying it was incorrect purge flow. My question is.. is this covered under the factory warranty. I'm on a very tight budget and I'm trying to find out before going in and finding out. I've owned Hyundai's since 2002 and so far have never paid for an out of pocket repair. But it doesn't hurt to check ahead.. And I've already gotten the standard "it's your gas cap". Ok I'd buy that if it was 10yrs old but it's only a yr and a half old. besides it only goes half a turn then clicks. so it kind of either seals or it doesn't.
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What the gear ratio is from factory?
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Our 2003 Odyssey had the transmission rebuilt last month after the original finally failed (215,000 miles). After the rebuild, third gear has a whine. (I don’t recall if it was there before the rebuild – it’s the wife’s ride, she wouldn't have noticed it anyway, and apparently I didn't either). The whine pitch varies with RPM, and is louder if the transmission is under a load. Going up a hill with the accelerator depressed makes the whine louder – taking your foot off the accelerator quiets it. I have a warranty for two years on the rebuild, but before I go back and start asking them about the noise, I was wondering what would cause it? I am worried they didn’t rebuild everything and will just tell me the whine is “nothing to be concerned about.” The transmission shifts smoothly and appears to operate normally other than the whine in third gear under a load.
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I got burned with a smoker back in the mid 1980's and have been hesitant to come back. I am currently pulling my 5er and my enclosed gooseneck with a 6.2 gasser SRW. It has the 3.73 gears in it...not the best for towing.
I am thinking about ordering a new SD DRW 2wd with the 6.7 PSD.
Both my trailers are rated at 18000 GVW, what would be the best ratio to order? 3.73's?? 3.55? Fuel mileage will be what it will be with what ever ratio I go with. The truck will be mainly a puller. Not a daily driver.
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I have a 06 f150 and about a month ago I purchased an edge evolution. Twice in the past 3 weeks my o/d light starts flashing and my truck beeps and it shows Trans Fault on the trucks display. When I use the edge to check the DTC it comes back as P0731. I am running the canned level 3 tune no changes and trucks completely stock other then the edge. Also both times I have been going about 10 mph down a hill without giving it any gas. Also both times of shut the truck off and let it sit for a bit to make sure I wasn't going to break something.
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I just purchased a used 2010 fx2 screw with 5.4 and 6-speed auto. How can I find out what rear gear ratio the truck has? do I have to contact a dealer to find this out or are their any web based sites that can decode the vin? Is the gear ratio marked on the truck anywhere?
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Never been on a forum but I've got a 1977 ford f150 with a 400,c6 trans currently with 3.50 gears and 26.5 overall dia tires. if I was to put 34.5 inch tires and 4.56s would it drive like it does now, same speeds and rpms in all three gears and it shouldn't chug more gas than it already does... right?
If im reasking a question post link haven't found one.
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I have a 2000 Ex limited 7.3 4x4 with 196k on it. I bought a new snow plow two years ago and the first season, my transmission went out during a plow job. It had about 175k on the truck and I bought it with 155k with no real knowledge of any work being done to the transmission. So, I had a local transmission shop rebuild the transmission. The owner has done plenty of transmissions for my family in the past with no issues. Once I got the truck back, the reverse was lagging. I didn't recall it being that way, so after month or so, I took it back in to him. It was about 7 seconds to shift to reverse.
He replaced a solenoid and valve I believe. That supposedly fixed the issue and got it down to about 3-4 seconds. I drove it for a month or so then took it back when I was plowing and the reverse went out. He dropped it and went through it. He said the check ball went through the backing plate. He repaired and now I am driving it, but still not happy with the reverse lag and it's out of his warranty period. It's irritating day to day, but when plowing snow, it'll drive you mad! I'm no transmission guy, and not sure why it's all of a sudden different than it was prior to rebuild.
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The shifter goes into the incorrect gear for what is showing on the dash.
For example:
A little left of Park = Park
Park=Reverse
Reverse/Neutral/Drive = Neutral
A little right (almost gear 2) of Drive = Drive
Once I have found the gear and the shifter is set, the handle has enough play in it that allows it to rest over the correct slot.
It started after I put the car into neutral from drive without pulling the handle back but instead just pushing it to the left. When I went to put it back into drive, it was still in neutral.
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