Accent LC (2000-05) :: Heater Fan Stay On With Key Removed And Battery Went Dead Flat
Jan 16, 2015
I've a Hyundai 03 Accent that wont turn over. The heater fan would stay on with the key removed and subsequently my battery went dead flat.
I tried to roll start, then jump start to no avail. I fully charged the battery overnight but now when starting the car there is no response. I checked the battery - 12.7 volts. Checked the fuse' under the hood, getting power there. Checked the power supply to the ignition switch - 12.7 volts.
There is no lights on the dash - i.e., engine check, airbag etc. But the interior overhead lights, door open and headlights all work fine.
Iv'e got a hold of an 00 accent running fine and have been swapping parts out. I swapped all the fuses I could see that might be causing the problem. Swapped ignition switch. Swapped fuses under the dash.
I have power to the ignition switch with the key out. Key in, no power to switch. On the running accent I have power to different wire depending on key location.
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I have a Canadian spec TDI highline trim with automatic headlights. I generally do not lock it when I park in my garage at home. Last night I parked it and came out this morning to see that the running lights, but not the headlights, were on. The battery was basically dead and I had to boost it to get going.
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The fans are operating as they should when my 2007 Camry SE V6 engine is running: if AC is off - fans are off too till the coolant temperature raising to the middle of the temp gauge, then fans are started to spin on slow occasionally; when AC is on fans are running all the time. But when I turn off the car fans are running on full speed till battery is dead. What can it be? ECU?
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So this morning I was going to my car and pushed the unlock button on my key FOB....nothing. Weird, thought maybe my FOB battery was dead. Opened the door with the key and noticed that my interior light did not come on. My battery is only a few months old, so i didnt think it could be that. Went to turn ignition...nothing, no crank no lights dimming..zero power at all. I opened up the hood and as i did so, i saw the lights on the interior come on. I tried to start it and it started right up. I let it sit for a minute and the car just died out. No power again. I looked at the battery terminal connections and all seemed to be ok, nothing loose etc. Then in about a minute, the power came back. Ended up driving the car to work, about 30 miles, and so far it is ok. I'm afraid of getting stuck somewhere, but i dont even know where to begin to troubleshoot. Figured it can't be a fuse or it wouldn't cycle power like that. Connections to the battery seemed ok and even when i wiggled them, nothing happened.
I have an 07 with about 115k on it.
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Rookie move. The battery went dead on the excursion so I nabbed one out of my Focus so I could just move the beast to another parking spot. Long story short, the battery's design was exactly the same, aside from the polarity on the posts. I didn't check and now I'm not getting a response from the vehicle at all. No lights, no clicks, nothing.
I'm assuming I blew a fuse, and possibly fried the PCM. Where to start? I'm not sure which fuse I'm looking for, as none of the diagrams have a "main fuse" listed.
The details: 2000 Excursion, V10 6.8.
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I have a 2001 Accent with a 1.6. This car is mostly driven by my daughter so I'm translating the symptoms as she has described them to me. The issue appears to be this - when driving at highway speeds the car will sometimes downshift from OD to 3rd gear and stay there. When the problem first started, she would pull off the highway, turn off the car and then restart it - this would appear to "fix" things temporarily, however, as time went on, it would work up to (and including) 3rd gear and not go into OD after a restart.
I've reviewed the various threads on this site describing the 4th gear problem prevalent in the Accent, but in each case that was posted, there was a check-engine-light or at least some diagnostic codes stored that one could refer to - I've scanned this car every time she's been home and there are no DTC's. Should I assume that this is the standard "4th gear" issue and take the pan off for investigation or could this be some other issue such as the speed sensor causing the transmission to limit itself to a max of 3rd gear?
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My daughter has a 2000 accent , SOHC 12V, I think it's the 1.5L.. It will not stay running when the engine is cold...........after it warms up, or if it sits in the hot sun it's fine................it has 166K .
She said she took it to an auto parts store and had the engine code read, p1123 came up.....
Code P1123 : Long term fuel trim, at idle - mixture too rich..
What do you think this is caused by................ the inlet air temp sensor? I was told someone just replaced the air max flow sensor, that don't sound correct to me, but that's what they called it....probably the MAF sensor....
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My heater seems to not be blowing as much hot air as it used to in my 01 Accent GS 1.6 L. The air is warm, but it is not warm like it is supposed to be. All selectors work well eg. fan speed and temp selector. Engine is running normal operating temps too. So in the end, it takes forever to get warm in the car, and to keep it nice and warm, it has be on fan speed 3. if not, the car will lose the warm air faster than it can push it out.
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We have a 2000 Accent that is having some problems. Last year, I took it into our trusted mechanic, who told me that the engine was going downhill - one of the cylinders was dead (this was in response to us wanting to drive it to Texas for our daughter that was stationed there - we just wanted a tune-up). The car ran fine, and here we are a year later - and need a smog.
It does have a problem starting at times when we put fuel in it (at 1 particular gas station) and Hyundai told us it was an EVAP issue and it would cost us $622. (Hyundai NEVER mentioned anything regarding the engine issue). We never got it fixed because again, it only happens at that one station, so we try to avoid it - and the car runs great (it has 190k miles on it).
So now, we need to get it smogged. Same mechanic wouldn't do anything - I pulled codes off my reader and it only gave me the 2 441/442 codes. I cleared the CEL off the dash.
Now, my question is: Should I just take it back to Hyundai for them to do the smog and EVAP repair? Or should I try to have it smogged. I'm not willing to give up on it yet. I'm sure the mechanic thinks it is dying, but I've been told that the engine would run rough and vibrate if a cylinder was dead. Of course, reality may smack me upside the head, but it just runs fine except for the fuel issue, that I'm doubting him.
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I have a 2000 Ford Excursion XLT 2WD with just over 155,000 miles on it, for awhile now My battery light has been on and off or it'll flicker and some times it will even stay solid. I checked the batteries and the alternator a while ago and got good readings from them. I just thought it was a code that never got reset. Well this morning I was driving it and I noticed that when I brought the RPMs over 3,000 the battery gauge would go up to 18 volts and the battery stayed on until the RPMs went back down past 3,000. It did this all morning until I got home and just for kicks I put it in park and revved the engine up to 3,000 RPMs, when I did nothing happened. I tried looking online for an answer and I called a few mechanic shops who all said it was my alternator. I want to make sure that it is in fact the alternator....
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After changing my CD player, my heater blows out cold air (not icy cold but cold like you have put the thermostat on low heat) all the time but my temperature gauge is perfectly normal! Its right in between cold and hot.
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02 F150, 5.4 gas motor, about 338k miles. Bought this truck well used so I would have a truck when I needed one. Someone has removed the heater control valve. I've got a new one, but there is a port on the top for a vacuum line, but where this line plugs into.
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I bought my Prius 2 days ago and I am now on a long car trip. I think I understand how to drive the car, but I was fighting to get the car to stay around 50mpg - even on flat terrain it wanted to be down around 35. I tried using cruise control, I tried manual. Going up hill I'd get 19-28... almost always coasting to 99.9 down hill (though a couple times it would be low then too) but the flat time is what really killed me.
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I was messing with the battery in my 200 Ford Ranger the other day and must of arc something. I know this because after plugging my battery back up my radio fuse was blown and my alternator was killed. I replaces the radio fuse, that works now, and got a new remanufacted alternator (tested mine at Advance it was dead). I installed it and nothing changed. The battery still wasn't charging. I know the battery is good because I tested it at Advance Auto. I took the alternator back and the shop replaced it with another remanufacted one. Same thing, installed it and the battery doesn't charge.
This time I took the alt back off and had it tested at Advance. The alt was dead. So I don't know if the part store gave me TWO bad alternators or if my truck is killing them. I find it hard to believe it could kill them immediately but my automotive knowledge is not that vast. I took the second (third counting my original) dead alternator back and they gave me a brand new one no extra charge. So I don't want to put a brand new alt in my truck and it kill this one too because I doubt they will give me a fourth one. What is going on? Could it just be as simple as I got two bad eggs?
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Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. It it the blower, the switch or the little box behind the blower? When it does work, it starts out slow and slowly gains speed.
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My 2001 Accent heater only blows air to your face no matter what position the knob is in.
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When I first got my car it had a flat spot while driving hard at higher rpms. Almost as if something were actually holding the car back, it would pull nice up to that spot and then just almost die off. I eventually got unitronic flash and it seemed better but it was still doing it. Later companies started coming out with dsg flashes and this seemed to be the remedy but I now have hpa dsg flash and it still does it from time to to time. Could this be a faulty coilpack, or an issue with the intake manifold valve that changes over at higher rpms?
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My friends have a 2002 Accent with the 1.6 DOHC that I've been puttering around with all weekend.
The door was left open a crack and the battery drained. It was brought in, didn't charge right (he said he accidentally put the cables on reverse). Tried to install it, still did not start, put it back on charger correctly, and then re-installed. It was unknown at the time, but the black cable that went from the negative post to the fuse box popped off, and then he said there was no lights in the car, but tried to start it anyway.
We tested the battery both with a voltmeter and at a parts store - its testing like a brand new battery. I've tested all the fuses in the box under the hood, and in the box by the driver's feet. I also tested continuity in the ground to the engine, ground to the body, ground to the fuse box, and the alternator to the fuse box cables. All the wires show up as less than 0.5 ohms resistance (I'm assuming since I didn't get an infinity reading that they are intact).
I then tried to just put the key in the 'on' position to see what I could get - no interior lights, no start, no accessories at all. It wouldn't even let me shift it with the key in. I've got no clue what left to try. I guess these don't really have a "main relay" but at any event I don't know how to properly test these relays anyhow.
This used to be my car, and last year I replaced the positive cable to the starter, and the CD player was erroring out (it kept reading that there was a CD being inserted then stopping and then turning on the radio) so I just pulled the fuse under the hood. I don't know if they would have some effect over a year after the fact.
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When the car is running, the noise is not there OR it is drowned out by the engine, but when you turn the key and run on battery, you hear a buzzing and it sounds like it is coming from the engine, it stays until you turn the engine on or turn the key back off.
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There is no electric power (no lights, no dash indicators, no starting, nada...) New battery just put in.
More background: old 'beater' hyundai, manual trans, not sure of year but older one (looks a lot like the picture for this forum). It was sitting in storage for over a year and was driven in to that slot. It belonged to my son's friend who just gave it to him. Was going to drive it away (tires, oil ok) but of course would not start. no lights will come on, interior or exterior. turning key in ignition to any position makes no difference - still no power to anything. Battery cables seem ok. Could find no blown fuses, either inside or under the hood.
So, what are we missing? What is the magical fix that will quickly get this thing on the road (we want to stop the storage fees too).
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i have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
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